J.R.

Cheap readers only read generic OBDII fault codes and cannot access the various modules and their stored fault codes, they will be able to read the airbag generic fault code because the MIL lamp is lit but will not be able to access the airbag control module to erase the fault code. A garage with a mult-marque reader like a Snap On one will be able to erase the code, otherwise its VCDS, OBD11 etc. Happy to be proved wrong, since getting VCDS I have never used either of my cheap readers, one of which supplied by ECP has never displayed a single code, I think once it detects its plugged in does nothing other than bringing up a "no fault codes found" message.

Loctite bearing fit or a second hand hub carrier, hard to imagine any country where a machinists time to machine the housing then turn up an annular ring to both bearing fit and interference fit tolerances would work out less than 10 new hubs let alone one second hand one. And the finished job would be dangerously weak compared to an original hub.

I drive a RHD UK sourced Yeti in France, the speedo is only in MPH but I can select a km/h readout on the maxidot display, within those menus there are options for selecting units including mph/km/h I believe. Have a look through the options and try to get the speed readout on the maxidot display, then try changing the units, it may require some VCDS coding, worse case scenario is a new instrument binnacle and dealer coding because the immobiliser settings are held within. Practical solutions to the problem are to make a sticker for the speedometer with MPH markings or even to fit a supplementary bicycle speedometer or one for a kitcar.

I'm sure all the materials will have dried up in the intervening 43 years but for one of my first cars I bought a vinyl repair kit that had pots of different coloured heat cure vinyl compound plus graining papers, you would fill the tear with the compound using a backing mesh if on a seat etc, then cure it with a hot iron through the graining paper, there was even some moulding compound for taking a mould of a stitched seam or other detail to replicate it. No doubt the guy was using something similar, colour match looks good but the graining not so much so, maybe he didn't have a suitable transfer paper. The dash on my Yeti was reconditioned after an airbag deployment which leaves a big jagged hole in the top of it, I challenge anyone to see where it has been repaired & a year later it has not faded or sunk, the whole unit has been texture sprayed as you can see a blue primer at the hidden return edges, the texture looks identical to an original dash, I thought I would have trouble fitting the instrument binnacle as it was a tight fit on the old dash and the extra spray thickness I expected to cause problems but it didn't. It must have been the same process as used on the new mouldings, it was done in Poland, you look up underneath and where the spring loaded deployment hatch has been reattached with lockwire it looks a typical bodge but the visible finishing is beyond any criticism.

You will probably find it down to the right behind the headlamp, on the undertray or on the side moulding to the undertray. I can even tell you why it fell off, because the PO had trouble clipping it on, why? - because the round spigot attaching the U pipe to that housing needs to be rotated till the moulded "TOP" legend is visible, thats something I only learned myself today! My neighbour found his dropped down amongst the oily bits, like you he didn't know it was missing & he had to find a home for it!

I have read loads of reports on various forums thanks to google, all of them were people who relied on their dealer, they all had pretty much the same story, not sure what it was as the dealer ended up replacing the bleed block, master cylinder and then the slave cylinder often insisting on replacing the whole clutch & dual mass flywheel as well. The cynic in me sees a different scenario given that the bleed block and the slave cylinder can be hydraulicly or pneumatically tested via the bleed nipple with the flexible supply hose clamped off (thats exactly what I did), also you cannot visually verify that the slave cylinder has been replaced. Also many had initially charged for bleeding the system and said that if the pedal dropped again it would be a gearbox out job to replace the slave, this is absolutely not true because it would point to the master cylinder being faulty. I reckon they started with the easy job of the bleed block, then when the problem was not resolved decided correctly to replace the master cylinder, they got their hands literally and physically burned by the job being much harder and taking far longer than they planned, they probably made the mistake with the seal like I did (and like the VAG dealer & independant garage did with my MK1 Octavia) and so to recover their loss the customer was invoiced for the long and expensive job of the slave cylinder which was never done. Failure of the slave cylinder can only be through a leaking seal which would result in fluid leaking from the bellhousing and also the reservoir level falling and the low fluid warning light being activated. For information the take off from the shared brake & clutch reservoir for the clutch system is at 3/4 height and corresponds to the level at which the warning light comes on, it is impossible for a clutch hydraulic failure to affect the braking system, conversely a leak in the brake system will manifest itself first (if the driver does not feel the imbalance) by clutch failure.

Does the emissions "fix" actually change the regeneration parameters or is it that the increased EGR creates more soot resulting in more frequent regens? In VCDS I can see the parameters and a regen is triggered when the soot level reaches a certain threshold, 25g I think, I dont know whether it uses the measured or calculated soot loading as mine are always different with the measured being lower than the calculated. The measured I believe is from the data output of the DPF differential pressure sensor. Not having a smartphone I cannot use the app but during the lockdown & the shorter journeys I never saw in VCDS a distance since last regen of more than 200 miles & when I have been aware of regens they have been 200 miles apart, even when I did 500km autoroute journeys it did not seem to reduce the frequency. I have an EGR emulator/simulator (currently disconnected to evaluate remap) so there is no EGR but the ECU thinks its happening, if the regens are triggered by the calculated value then I must look at getting the fox rolled back, I had the option during the remap but decided to stick with the emulator, I had not considered that the regen frequency may be increased come what may, I dont like the idea of all that wasted fuel, the heat created etc to burn off soot that may not even be there!

Job finally done, having learned the hard way and had to take it all apart and start again today in a snowstorm please dont make the mistakes that I did! A new cylinder is cheap, £26 on Ebay or £112 retail from VAG (minus 8% TPS discount) which has the latest revision number so maybe they have improved the seals? _ who knows, its a pig of a job initially (but I could do another one tomorrow with ease) but preferable to being stranded with a clutch that will not disengage. When working on it you can only just squeeze one hand down behind the DPF and have to work blind by feel, as your forearm gets scraped by the heatshield fixing studs it and the hand swells up and you cannot get it out again . The pipe will only come out of the cylinder after a big fight, the pedal assembly needs to be unbolted from inside after removing the knee airbag, airbag support bracket, heater duct and lower dash panel, it then need to be tilted upwards and held in that position while you forcibly spring the pipe to remove it, with the fill hose and the sensor wiring removed the assembly can be withdrawn from inside the cabin. The old seal will have remained in the cylinder, logic says that you fit the new one into the new cylinder in the same way do not do this, it will leak, the new seal needs to be pushed onto the pipe but even though its a tight fit it is not in the correct position and will leak, it needs to be pushed with a lot of force and for this you need to get a second arm & hand down through the gap only big enough for one so that you can hold the pipe and push the seal until it snaps into place. You will have as much trouble gettin the pipe back into the new cylinder, it needs to be angled again and with a lot of force you can get it started, then the pedal box needs to be bolted up and the pipe & union pushed home & the retaining clip reinserted. At this stage I advise you to go straight to the clutch bleeding because if the seal is leaking it will all need to come apart again so you dont want to struggle with the other connections before being sure. I fitted extra thermal insulation around the master cylinder, the DPF already has a non asbestos type matting under a metal shield and there is a seperate reflective foil cloth type barrier between it and the master cylinder but there is just not the space needed.

The extra heat was what finally killed off the clutch master cylinder but having dismantled the old one the piston seal (male) had long since degraded & broken up due to its proximity to the DPF, it was still functioning because the piston is a very close fit in the bore & will bleed & operate the clutch even without the seal at normal temperature because there is a second female seal that ensure any fluid passing the piston seal will not leak out but instead pass back up to the reservoir, when the cylinder expanded the fluid took the path of least resistance. If the higher powered versions of my engine have a larger DPF and freer flowing exhaust then it would have indeed reduced the temperature but the damage had already been done by 80k miles of active and passive regens. When I have googled and found other examples of premature failure they have all been the 170hp engines and many were failing at 30 miles. If anyone has any doubts they should bleed the clutch system, its very easy once the air filter housing is removed, if there are any black particles then your master cylinder seal has broken up and sooner or later your pedal will go to the floor and not return.

Fascinating! They appear to be doing their job but I didn't like the oscillation between 20 and 30 seconds, could you feel it? The fore and aft movement is from the front wishbone bush, the console bush has little resistance in that direction.

I guess I must be at fault when I read most of your posts in which case.

I just skimmed through the video again, the relevant part is 6 seconds long yet the video is six and a half minutes long What is it with these people?

Its ironic that I should have found a thread explaining the problem I have and I was the last person to post. I was replacing the clutch master cylinder that is tucked away behind the DPF, not visible and has to be done by feel, I made the mistake of putting the seal in the cylinder and then fitting the pipe to the cylinder, not helped by it having to be introduced at an angle. I can now see that it was never going to work. Spent most of yesterday trying to bleed the system & wondering where all the air was coming from & all the fluid was going to, the leak was not visible & the fluid running between the bulkhead and the insulation. Too much snow to continue today so I am without a car due to being without a memory!

It was your gratuitous and totally uncalled for rudeness and sarcasm aimed at a new contributor.

One thing that will always make an exhaust manifold glow red is retarded ignition timing, very unlikely to be the case on a modern ECU controlled engine but worthy of mention, possibly the cam belt has been replaced & the torsion value setting is incorrect. Were it a diesel with a DPF then the talk of short journeys would make me think that its the effect of post combustion injection to get the DPF up to temperature, does a petrol engine do something similar to get the catastrophic convertor up to temperature? What were the sensors giving the readings and where are they positioned?

The bad news is after doing the pig of a job fitting the new slave cylinder in the tiny space behind the DPF that you can get one hand into but not out again I did not realise that the pipe seal had either fallen out while fitting or I had fitted it the wrong way round, the union was leaking but not in view and the fluid was going behind the bulkhead insulation. I spent most of the day trying to pressure bleed the system wondering where all the air was coming from and where all the fluid was going to. Much later I saw the lake forming on the block paving under the vehicle The good news is that an autopsy showed that the old cylinder seal had broken up into tiny hard & brittle pieces, it would not have lasted much longer and the extra heat had put it out of its misery, I'm glad it has happened now and not later in France, I am confident that I wont have to remove the gearbox to do the concentric bearing which for a while it was looking like I may have to (I pressure tested it earlier). I will add some extra thermal insulation around the cylinder to hopefully prolong its life but will know the early symptoms now if it does fail again. Snow is forecast for tomorrow so its going to be hors service for some time yet.

Just collected the new one from TPS, am half way through the removal of the old one, its a challenge to say the least but I am so glad that it happened while back in the UK with my tools & workshop and TPS on my doorstep. 4 times the price of those on Ebay but I have it now and not towards the end of next week, its a later revision from all those on Ebay so they may have made some changes, I did a much higher pressure bleed through this morning and flushed through loads of rubber debris so I think the seal has simply given up the ghost, playing with the new one its much simpler than a normal master cylinder and simply has one seal on the piston, no springs, no check valves, I think mine is just lacking any compression.

I have discovered what causes the clutch master cylinders to fail and why mine went after the increase in power. The cylinder body is plastic and it is located less than 10cm away from the DPF which runs hotter than 650°c during active or passive regeneration, there is a tiny bit of aluminised cloth between them as a heatshield. Nice job VAG It looks like an absolute pig to remove, I think the DPF will have to come off. I bet the failure rate on them is much higher on the more powerfull models, more power = more heat generated in the exhaust.

Well I am closer to understanding what happens but in doing so have rendered the car undriveable for a while. You dont need to use the clutch for the problem to occur, just driving at 4k revs for any length of time will create an effect exactly like brake pad knock off with warped discs, in my case either resonance, vibration or perhaps crank end float (to be checked) at higher revs is pushing fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir, it could be that my modification to drill out the bleeder block which some call the "clutch peak torque limiter" has made the situation worse. The actual fault however is within the master cylinder which is either sticking or has a broken internal spring, if you lift the clutch pedal up manually the piston does not return so that it cannot draw another slug of fluid. If the master cylinder was functioning properly then at worst the pedal would be low on the first application but would get higher with a couple of pumps just like after fitting new brake pads, at one stage I was able to pump the pedal and get it back to how it should be, then it degenerated to me having to lift it with my foot finally I cant get a pedal at all, I could probably get it working again with a pressure bleed but it will have to stay off the road till I can replace the master cylinder and then perhaps the bleed block. Hopefully TPS can have me sorted tomorrow morning otherwise its E-bay and a long wait, deliveries have been really slow recently.

The changes that you mention initially are not to support the additional load but to get the maximum out of the remapping which in itself will create more load on the drivetrain, brakes, oil & cooling systems, what I have is more than adequate for me. What I really like is that if I drive it like I usually do there is absolutely no difference, perhaps I am able to remain in a higher gear at lower speeds like with the previous remap, I need to get back to familiar roads and the routine journeys to know.

No way will I be removing the DPF, maybe in a previous life but this remap was simply to give me the mid range torque that this vehicle is lacking, most of the time that will never be used but its good to have on tap for the very rare instances I need to overtake someone driving slower than I want to, also I have some heavy towing jobs in the future. Brakes, I already bought all the parts but they were in much worse condition than the listing suggested, the discs are not even the grooved ones shown on the photos, I do indeed need new hub carriers to fit them but also will need larger diameter struts or to faff around with shim collars, I will make a start by reconditioning the calipers this week. Whilst I have the problem of the clutch getting air in the system after full throttle max rev runs in 3rd & 4th or 4th & 5th gears there is a very simple solution, I never ever need to do them! There seems to be no leak but simply air entering the system or possibly aération, it will self bleed out overnight, that is a work in progress, I have however dodged a bullet by discovering and disabling the restrictor valve that slows the clutch from disengaging, it meant I was getting slip on the rare fast pull aways in 1st gear, a gear in which the clutch should never slip, it would also have happened when full throttle upchanging to 5th or 6th where it really would have caused damage, I will never be putting the new torque through a slipping clutch and it has no problem driving it when disengaged. A bonus of removing the restrictor valve is that the pedal comes up quicker if I step off it quicker (which was the intention) the clutch switch contacts close quicker so the turbo spools up quicker after a gearchange, that really is noticeable but again its only going to be once in a blue moon it gets used. All your comments would have been relevant if I were a 25 year younger version of my current sad old self!!!!

My Yeti was remapped today, it goes like stink now but unlike the PD engine remap where there was a big rush of mid range torque this is progressive and the engine continues to build up power at higher revs whereas it would have run out of steam before. So on the way back I was testing it as you do, after a couple of 3rd & 4th gear high rev acceleration runs the clutch pedal became soft, no resistance on the first half of travel & disengaging close to the floor. When I got back I removed the plastic bleed block from the concentric slave cylinder, I drilled out the restrictor in the poppet valve thinking that the problem may have been the master cylinder pushrod not returning as quick as I was bringing up the clutch (it had caused slip problems on quick getaways before), I pressure bled the system and the pedal returned to normal. I did a 15 mile test drive at normal speeds and everything was fine, then on an empty stretch of road I repeated the 3rd & 4th gear runs holding onto the revs until the power fell off before shifting at normal speeds, the pedal once again got some free play after the first run, one more run and it was once again half way to the floor, driving normally home it got no worse and a couple of times it appeared to have become firmer. I have left it overnight with the pedal wedged down to see if it backbleeds, I will remove the undertray to see if there are any signs of fluid leakage. Is this a known problem, has anyone else experienced it? Is the slave cylinder leaking or does the vibration of high revs somehow allow air into the system? I did notice that the design of the bleed block means that it can wobble around and perhaps allow the O ring seals (which I didn't replace) to leak. Being a 4 wheel drive its a big work up to remove the gearbox & if it is not going to fail big time but simply become aerated on high speed runs then its easy to avoid them or to bleed the system afterwards, I would naturally prefer to effect a permanent repair. Thanks in advance!

Clutch pedal drops after max acceleration runs in 3rd then 4th, 1/4 of its travel each time. Whatever it is was always there but before the engine always ran out of revs much earlier so was never subjected to this. Will start a new thread.

Remap done but had some clutch hydraulic problems on return journey, it rips through the gears so quick that you naturally shift quicker and the faster clutch action was not appreciated by the master cylinder whose piston (I believe) refused to return fully resulting in half pedal travel with no resistance & the clutch releasing on the floor. The stupid restrictor shuttle valve in the bleed block I reckon was to blame, I did not know of its existence but sometimes when doing a fast start to get across a junction in traffic the clutch would slip and I had the impression that it was not engaging as quick as I released the pedal, I now know that I was correct. Drilled the stupid thing out and pressure bled the clutch, it all feels fine now but I will keep a close eye on things and replace the master cylinder if need be, funnily enough this week I had exactly the same problem when recommissioning my bike engined Caterham road/race car after being laid up for 17 years, with that it was both master & slave pistons that were sticking. Off for a road test now and will probably find that I cant drive it now without stalling, kangarooing or clutch judder, the optimist in me says that it will be a big improvement, I dont like lag, inertia or damping in any human operated control system.

I wore clean underwear. What changes had you in mind?