J.R.

Remove the panel before clipping it back into place, that will give you access to confirm that whats behind is undamaged, I'm sure that it wont be, on a non towbar vehicle there is a large metal crashbar behind it, not sure whether its retained with the factory towbar but its removed for an aftermarket one which is a loss. I see that you have parking sensors, that is definitely something you want to check throughly. While the panel is off you can check that all the clips & the engagement slots in the bumper are in good order to refit, there might be a little reforming to do but it should all go back perfectly, an insurer would change the panel and the bumper. Bumper comes off easily if you see something that needs further scrutiny.

If you are playing with plenty of poke then the Haldex will be fully engaged & delivering 50% torque to the rear wheels as stated, if it feels tail happy then that will be a consequence of the powertrain weight over the front wheels providing more grip to them, the rear diff is not limited slip, when you are giving more power than the grip available one rear wheel will be spinning faster and one slower than the front wheels that are not slipping hence the drift. I am actually very pleased to hear what you are experiencing, I dont have any poke to play with and would have to really abuse the vehicle on wet roads to find its transient behaviour, no snow here as yet to discover what you have.

Thanks, that can be achieved by a normal twin tone set up (& not the pathetci excuse on my car) by how quickly you tap the horn push. I dont think since driving the Yeti that I have had any cause to toot another motorist, people dont do polite toots here in France so one would be misconstrued, I do a wave or a headlamp flash, the few times I have used it is when I have seen people that I know but have forgotten how pathetic it sounds so I end up ducking down so they cant see me

Skipped through a few portions of that video before deciding that whatever the narcissist had to say it would be of no interest to me and probably of no value.

When I remove the upper cambelt cover I will look to see if there are the bolts for the so called (not) vernier adjustment. When I think of it on the PD engine its much more important because the secondary injection Deuse pumps are advanced or retarded with the camshaft position, I know the injectors are timed by the ECU but the rise in injection pressure is a function of the torsion angle. So I think you are right & I will find no adjustment which will be a relief after the PD.

The correct torsion value can make a huge difference to driveability and general "feel" often well beyond what can be measured. I agree, having felt the benefits myself I wish that I had measured the torsion value before the belt change. As an aside does anyone know if the torsion value can be measured on the 2.0 TDI common rail engine? Mine is a CFHF engine but I have seen no VCDS parameter unless it has been changed to an even less relevant term.

I have plenty good to say thanks and will continue, if you looked in the usual places for the engine code sticker you would have seen either a cam belt cover or a timing chain case, without even getting that close a cursory look at the cam cover would have revealed whether it was a belt or chain drive. The bonnet would have needed to be opened and the engine cover lifted off, there may even be a photo in the owners handbook showing the engine with the cover removed.

Immobiliser. Do you have a second key to try?

Consumable it may be but when a clutch lining wears it does not make the pedal stick and the vehicle lose all drive, they are trying it on. However once they have taken you for £400 and having stripped down and immobilised your vehicle even if they pretend to try and get some goodwill gesture they will trot out the old standard line (no doubt on a shortcut key) that the clutch was 75% worn and make you a derisory offer of 25% towards the parts but not labour and thats if you have a good dealer and catch him on a good day. I would get them to commit their response to writing, concentrate on finding out how to get the problem to manifest and then get an independant motor engineers report. Oops, just read again, its being stripped, they have already got you by the balls.

My Yeti embarrasses me as well. I found the one pathetic horn fixed to one or the other front chassis rails when I was repairing the front end damage, I could not see a corresponding cable & connector on the other side, can anyone confirm or deny its existence? Its a job I must do but keep forgetting as with so few vehicles around I never need to use the horn.

7l/100km does sound very high for even Parisien urban driving, its a shame you did not check the long term trip memory (number 2) for the average consumption over the recorded term which could have been 3K kms +. The situation regarding the quitus fiscale on a UK imported vehicle is still a debating point, do you know if the préfectures have passed the responsability over to les douanes yet? When I registered an Octavia in 2018 I was told that it would be happening from the next month, it was yet another of the Brexit deadlines that got put back. If you do get a response from les douanes regarding import tax & TVA could you please let us know, I would say that in the absence of a reciprocal agreement (which there wont be much desire for) it will be 10% import duty + 20% TVA on the cote Argus, by rights it should have a lower value for being RHD.

I have no idea what the app does and frankly would prefer to remain ignorant. If it results in some (to me) perfectly usable cars being rejected and sold off cheap to those who appreciate them for their primary function as a means of transport then that is fine by me.

If I were a dealer stuck between Skoda delivering something that does not correspond to their advertising and a customer rejecting a car because he cannot unlock it from his mobile phone I might be tempted to unlock their car when they lock it and lock it when they unlock it

My response was to the OP and the topic title. I cannot help you regarding Germany.

What is wrong with using your good old eyeballs to see if an engine has a cambelt or a timing chain? Seems like the internet has to be consulted for everything these days even for what is in front of ones nose, the engine code sticker was probably on the timing belt cover

Well I watched the video and other than it leaving me completely cold I could not see a single feature that he was playing with and rejoicing about that should be operated on the move by a driver exercising "due care & attention" or any that would not be a distraction. It did however give me a feel for the sort of people who desire such an object, if you spend most of your life staring into a phone then to be able to do it with a large display whilst sitting in the comfort of your vehicle perhaps with a few potes Whatsapping those in the vehicle parked next to you at Macdos would make it a must have. And it did not even have built in navigation, unless I misunderstood he said that it uses the system on your phone that has to be plugged in, so much for Bluetooth!!! I will stick with my £80 unit that has built in Satnav & if I want to change it then it costs €10 delivered from Ali-Express on a memory card that costs more than that from the cheapest supplier around here. It also has most of the features shown on the video although I have no desire to use most of them, it certainly integrates with my vehicle systems & steering wheel controls etc but I dont have climatronic on this car, a similar unit on my last car did display all the Climatronic settings. I know if I were in my teens or 20's I would have a very different view and perhaps had I grown up with these devices I would have the same view at a later age. It was interesting that a publicity video for a car radio did not even speak of the sound quality or audio controls, it seemed to be simply a plug in large(r) screen monitor for a mobile phone.

I have only used cheap Wince head units and they can be a lottery so would not recommend them, i only have a smartphone for the business credit card reader or for wifi hotspot if in the UK, I carry and use (as little as possible) an old school Nokia so could not link it to the car if I wanted to. I understand the desire to have a satnav integrated into the radio, my eye (single) could no longer use a tiny Tom Tom but dont understand the desire to integrate a phone with a vehicle, I can drive and be guided by the the satnav in the head unit, anything else would be a distraction for me.

There is a seperate function in VCDS at the very highest menu level for checking the mileage of the vehicles ECU compared to that which is recorded and displayed on the instrument binnacle. I had fitted a remapped "plug n play" ECU and the speedo read as it always had, i'm pretty sure the VCDS printouts showed the actua mileage (but in kms) and when I used that function it showed a much higher kilometrage, that of the donor vehicle and I am pretty certain that it increased as I put more kms on the replacement ECU. There was a text explanation to say that the figure embedded in the ECU was there to witness any clocking of the instrument binnacle and that the algorithm that it used was the number of hours driven multiplied by the average speed or something and as such it was normal for it to be very slightly different to the speedo display. That function does not work on the Yeti it says it is not supported but worked on the MK2 Octavia. The info can be found though under advanced measuring blocks of the engine contro module.

Why does everybody want Android auto for a head unit to be used for navigation? As someone who has had several non Android replacement head units that start up pretty much instantly and the navigation works well I keep reading that people have to have android auto, is it a smartphone dependancy thing?

Most of the plastic welding that I have done in recent years has been Skoda headlights, I will give you a clue, I did not use a hairdryer And I also know better than to buy anything especially headlights from Skodaparts.com, Superskoda etc! I am relieved to have your retrospective permission to have repaired my accident damaged headlights. The RH dipping Hella headlights (OE) that I bought had been shrink wrapped with a heat gun, they put out as much heat as the blowlamps that they replaced & would set your hair on fire if you used one as a hairdryer.

DSG gearbox?

Good luck with melting/distorting plastic with a hairdryer! Remind me what they make them from since forever? I agree that it wont achieve anything regarding the headlight condensation problem.

Current limiting resistor will not affect the timing calculation, R1 will still be needed. FWIW I dont think you need a current limiting resistor if the timer IC is a 12v logic chip but its been 30 years since I was constructing circuits and learning along the way so others will advise.

In what axis were they "wobbling"? Buckling would suggest movement along the axis of rotation or does it manifest as an eccentricity? I would be more concerned about the latter but that can often happen due to the wheel being centred on the spindle of the balancing machine but on the vehicle its the conical wheelnuts that centre the wheel especially if its not the OE wheel. There are tolerances for eccentricity and run out and if there is no vibration then the wheels could well be within tolerance.

Factory balancing, if you break away the rust flaking from your old discs you will see the same.