J.R.

I am well aware of galvanic corrosion thankyou. First studied it in 1975. I am also aware of the difference between the words "rust" and "corrode", you have gone from one to the other. Anodised aluminium valve caps will not seize on the valves neither will bare aluminium ones if the tyre pressures are checked periodically.

I have had a transmission noise since I made the Mr Maghoo mistake of draining out the diff oil by mistake and struggling to refill the haldex fluid & then driving for 300 miles 200 of which on autoroutes fully loaded. I was very lucky to have not destroyed the dry differential like many others have, the noise was reduced once fresh oil introduced (run for 30 miles flushed & refilled again) but its still present and has not got any worse over 10k miles. I have no vibration but will be checking both my propshaft couplings & also the transfer box.

Apologies Langers, not only did I misunderstand you I had not realised it was you that had posted the info, as one of my trusted and highly regarded sources I would not have doubted it had I realised Nonetheless the two vehicles I spoke of with 9 years between them both had old school wiring, the set up you describe would indeed cause problems for the sensing module

If you use a multi-meter to test which wire has voltage when each light is activated it would soon be apparent were it to be as you say. I have fitted/refitted towing electric relays to a 2006 Octavia and a 2015 Yeti and the wiring was standard old school, I have my doubts about your theory because were it true when the rear lights & fog lights are on the brake light would only show on one side which I dont think would meet the vehicle C&U regulations. Also the rear fog light could not be distinguished from a rear light fault, bulb incorrectly inserted for instance.

There is no ferrous metal to rust either in the aluminium dustcap or the brass schrader valve body. So for me being a grease monkey for close to 50 years its a revelation to hear what you assert that others probably know.

I read the posting several times thinking the same but was confused by him speaking of listening to the Haldex part & then showing a photo of the Haldex & rear differential. I believe the front angle drive/transfer gearbox is a known failure point & would suggest that the OP drops the undertray to look for oil leakage if he is actually talking about the front of the vehicle. Editted, I had not looked at the video or appreciated that he has dropped the undertray, front of vehicle = transfer box & not Haldex coupling. The shaft does not look to be running eccentric to my eyes & I see no oil leakage, the Guibo coupling looks out of round so may be deteriorated.

The pump is not to lubricate the input shaft bearings its to pressurise the clutch pack, I dont think a blocked strainer would result in bearing failure but am happy to learn otherwise. That Haldex controller is the same as mine, cant recall if mine is gen 4 or gen 5 but it does not have an external filter, only the internal pump strainer guaze which should answer your question.

Learn to double declutch, also a slower more delicate upshift may give the synchro cone more time to accelerate the 2nd gear to the mainshaft speed, try changing gear with the thumb and one forefinger only. Each time it crunches, the teeth that engage the synchro hub with the gear wear a little more and eventually the car will have to be held in gear when accelerating, avoiding this by either/or delicate gearchanges & double declutching will allow you to continue with the vehicle for years. Double declutching on upshifts is much easier to master than downshifting.

They can be tested with a MK1 earhole!

Unpredictable reliability is a good description for what I have always had after giving a potentiometer a stiff talking to. Its very satisfying to extend the life of a component but when you have to do it a second time it should really only be to tide you over until you can source & fit a new one.

I have never needed a wiring diagram to wire up towbar electrics, I use my eyes and a voltmeter. The accessory socket in the boot area is the most convenient location for the 12v feed for the relay.

I had not seen your location and realised you were using a second language, like so many of your compatriots your English is so good I had not realised. You can only measure voltage with an oscilloscope unless you start mucking around with shunt resistors. Not sure if a current probe would work on a DC solenoid, I have never tried one and sold my O scope several years ago which I immediately regretted. I do agree that the scope trace will likely identify an anomolous injector.

Check the operation of the seatbelts, I think you will need the pyrotechnic charges replacing, they usually deploy when the 3 dashboard airbags do.

Oh yes! That would have been too much temptation for me! I see a vehicle like that, one that I would not have been looking for or lusting after, I see a satisfying repair and become overcome with desire. It has kept me amused, done me no harm and made me money with vehicles, unfortunately I have the same weakness with women and I usually end up paying a heavy price Its a shame about the windscreen though, I dont mind stuff that I can do myself on the cheap without counting the hours but when you have to sub something out and pay the normal price your efforts dont add value.

A clamp meter in ohms??????????????? Do you mean probing using the test leads on the resistance range? If so then why a clamp meter?

"Magic jizz" - i love it You must be a fellow Viz reader

Thankyou to you both, I wasn't aware that my posting could have been read as asking for more "not helpfulls" but in your place were I able to make it sound like that then I would have done the same! So to return the compliment I have thanked you both and will now remove the thanks

Still waiting for snow here but if/when it does come testing your theory of the Haldex being disconnected when the handbrake is operated will be the first thing that I will do. I always try to find the limits of all my new vehicles ASAP on a wide wet greasy roundabout when there is no other traffic both with and without the ASC or whatever todays acrony is, the latter is very important, you need it off to know the vehicles real characteristics and on to appreciate the job that it does and to feel its activation, unless your eyes are on the idiot lights most of the time you are unaware of its intervention and that you had driven (or reacted to a hazard) beyond the vehicles limits. The 4x4 Yeti has so much grip combined with a high C of G that I did not do my usual find the limits testing so I hope that we get some snow.

I am unsure whether you two have done that in a humorous manner or otherwise. Perhaps I did not express myself correctly, those who have a problem with someones posting style can frequently give unhelpfull votes to that person, I get that and understand that it may be justified, however if they post likes when someone is trolling or abusing that person that is a poor show in my view and I'm glad to say has not happened (to me) on this forum. I was trying to show my genuine appreciation and respect for someone (without naming) who in the past has been an active contributor to my small collection of "not helpfull" votes, after seeing that they were to be among those denouncing the "altitude" poster.

Dariusz, please post some photographs of the car in its damaged state.

I did the same job a little over a year ago on a Yeti which is virtually identical. I understand where you are coming from when you say that its daunting but other than finding the last couple of hidden fixings that I had missed it came out very easily and the airbag replacement & re-assembly with a remanufactured dash (invisible repair of the ruptured deployment section) was very very easy. I seem to recall that it was easier to refit the passenger airbag after the dash was put in place as it obstructed its fitment, to do so easily meant extending the wires to it which was no big deal because the replacement one came with the connector in place and the loom cut so I had to solder them together anyway. I got a really good deal on a reconditioned dashboard, the 3 airbags and connectors and a pair of exchange seatbelts with the pyrotechnics replaced, the lot for £570 cash, the seller was from Poland and the dash had been repaired there and all the parts came from there, as it was a RHD dashboard the vehicle would have gone to your country for breaking and then all the parts sent back to the UK for resale. You are in the right place to do the repair and it is actually a very easy job once its behind you, I would do another one without hesitation, and were I a younger man could do it with my eyes closed, as it was I was blind in one eye after surgery a couple of weeks before and had to keep swapping from distance to reading glasses and needed good lighting to work up in the depths, I was really handicapped doing that job compared to when I was younger but got it done and would do it again. The repaired dash looked like new, you could not see the repair from any angle in the brightest sunlight, it had been retextured by a spray process but all the air vents etc clipped into place without any problem, a year later it looks just as good. I also had to have the crash data removed from the airbag control module and it reset, that was £30 and was delivered back to me within 36 hours. It was one of the most enjoyable salvage rebuilds that I have ever done and I take this opportunity to thank @StickyMicky once again for having viewed the wreck for me allowing me to buy it sight unseen, he did not miss a thing!

Nice to see the solidarité of so many "not helpfull" votes, 11 at the last count and not a single positive one. And a special thankyou to those amongst them who may have awarded me more than the occasional unhelpfull vote in the past

I have just charged my spare battery which i do at regular intervals, my electronic charger also cut out too early in my mind given the low temperatures so after leaving it overnight I charged it again, it was reading 13.3 volts, I left it 4 hours & it was at 12.7v, however when I used my decent pulsed load tester it showed 300ah vs the 640ah rating and 20% remaining life, yesterday on the 2nd test it showed 5% remaining. I dont think that its good enough to use on a vehicle now but might help for a very short jump start.

I accidentally drained mine (being a kittens like many others) and what came out looked like it was freshly poured from the bottle after 82K miles so I would say its good for life and dont touch it.

If you disconnect the one you have found and it gives a different fault code then you can be confident that there is indeed a second one hiding somewhere.