J.R.

OK I will, given the reference to the flood I suspect the other contributors are correct that water is sitting in the footwells under the carpet. But in the scenario that I gave it would be the aircon evaporator (Wino will advise if I have it confused with the condensor again!) going through a defrost cycle or having lots of condensation on it at the time of shut down. My AC is usually off and I use it as & when needed, the only times I have a lot of condensation in conditions where I should not like driving off the Eurotunnel is when the AC is running. The rest of the time I may have light misting according to the weather conditions and will use the AC to clear it.

When it happens if there are no traces of leaks or damp carpets, if the previous journey the occupants were not wearing wet coats & if the aircon was on when the engine stopped & the moisture is mainly on the front screen you dont need to be Einstein to work out what is going on.

You are correct, I had to replace the seatbelt reels in the Yeti after an airbag deployment, they are exchanged against ones where the pyrotechnic charge has (hopefully) been replaced. If it has deployed then the seatbelt reel will be inoperative, it would take a very specific combination of faulty wiring for it to deploy on its own, not impossible but as the wiring does not pass through the door bellows then its unlikely.

"Inconsistency", - sometimes they inadvertently tell the truth

The alarm siren internal battery failed & leaked acid over the circuit board, remove fuse and see if problem goes away. Have any electrical accessories been fitted recently? Dash cams, different stereo, trailer socket wiring etc?

The wireless ones need grinding down & even then have to be forced in.

A complete bodge and shows the desperate measures that VAG will take and how low they have sunk. A rubber to metal bonded bearing requires no lubrication, in fact on older compound rubbers it will cause the bearing to fail in short order just like an oil leak onto an engine mounting. They were introduced to do away with the maintenance requirement of greasing articulating suspension joints and also to give a much quieter more compliant ride. I dont doubt that slathering the bushes with grease will temporarily stop the noise coming from the undesired metal to metal contact which is the real issue.

No, only in the de minimis theoretical but not measurable sense and certainly would not be felt or affect the stability of the vehicle. You need a significant amount of force applied to the brake shoes to create any measurable retardation, even if there were a big difference in adjustment when the brake shoes touch on the first drum the fluid displacement goes to the other cylinder (and the discs are doing the same thing) only when there is no free play left anywhere in the brake circuit will the pressure rise and measurable retardation begin. Of course this all happens in a split second in an emergency stop situation. What does cause noticeable instability is a sticking front brake caliper under light braking, the vehicle will veer to the side that is free moving. I still carry a brake hose clamp that i made as an apprentice, it doesn't get used much these days but is there for when a brake cylinder seal leaks, more likely a caliper seal these days except its very unlikely. Many a time in the bad old days I have driven for a few days with one rear brake clamped off until I could attend to it at the weekend, under normal driving there was no instability whatsoever and another driver would never know, under a full emergency stop the trajectory would change slightly requiring a little correction, no more than if one rear wheel was off camber or in standing water.

Whilst I agree with replacing both sides as a pair and there may be an different coefficient of friction between the old and new linings the above is not true.

No

Yes.

I share your ignorance and smugness.

A 37ah battery? Thats smaller than a standard vehicle, I'm sure mine is 60ah just for starting the engine.

Fuel pumps and metering have always been positive displacement and the trading standards regularly check them to very fine limits. If you have not yet worked out that the pumps flow less fuel per second if you squeeze the trigger a little less then you must have very smelly shoes & socks

Can someone explain what these "grandfather rights" are with respect to towing limits? I still have the old format green paper driving license issued in 1976 and last renewed with a change of address in 1984, I know that I could dig it out & look but its been decades since I actually was concerned about what I am and aren't supposedly allowed to do. I have a feeling that my license groups allow me to drive a rigid non articulated lorry up to 7500kg and tow maybe up to 3500kg but its probably been 20 years since I looked. Here in France you have to take a special test to tow anything other than a tiny goods trailer, all trailers over 500kg have to be registered and carry their own number plates and insurance, it was 750kg in the past and basic car insurance includes cover for a trailer up to 750kg even though many of those will need their own insurance. I think the standard driving license is restricted to vehicles under 3500kg, you get the silly situation where self drive hire flatbed lorries with a tilt bed have which can happily carry several cubic metres of sand, ballast etc have an allowable payload of no more than a couple of bags of cement or the general public could not hire them, far less than a saloon or estate car

Its alerting you that the teapot is chocolate. All the systems do a self check when turning on the ignition, thats why all the dash & mil lights illuminate for a second including the airbag light, it does not take 60 seconds to check the airbag & SRS systems, a car can be almost at V-max by then.

That sounds like someone wearing a white lab coat and holding a clipboard would say in an authorative manner on a shampoo or anti-ageing cream advert

Mine has always done it, at least it has always done it from the time that I first noticed I'm sure its supposed to be alerting me to something but it remains as incomprehensible as the safelock warning.

With it reattached to the humerous is there not less holding the shoulder joint in place against dislocation?

You just need to keep your eye open for a cheap kit on E-bay, buy one with several rawlplugs & you could sell it on afterwards!

No material known to man could corrode faster than what is used on the VAG OE discs & backplates, they will have spent decades refining it. I had my wheels off yesterday (change to winter wheels) & my Chineseum discs were just fine, same vehicle, same age, discs changed at similar mileage and time ago.

It says something for the oiltightness of VAG engines that there could be concerns of rust on a sump pan. Who would have believed that in the 60's, 70's or 80's!!

They were close enough until the weather is better, I did check them, 2.0 bar with one at 1.9 bar, sticker says 2.2 bar, good enough for now. Not sure if I have actually acknowledged what is presumably the (re)learning process as I read that I should have turned off the ignition. Mine is the indirect TPMS, I should have indicated that.

The flashing lights I believe come on when the retardation exceeds a certain threshold, perhaps the winter tyres under current temperatures dont have as much braking grip & the ABS is modulating to avoid wheel lock, less effective braking and no flashing lights? I fitted my winter wheels & tyres yesterday (first time ever) and did not think to check the braking, I'm not looking to push the envelope so the braking & cornering will be what they will be, with luck and reading the road ahead I will never find the limits. I have a related question, I knew that I had to reset the TPMS but was and still am too lazy to serch through the manual, I pressed the button, then decided to press & hold it, it then beeped, I tried again to be sure & then just drove normally, no warnings lights or anything but have I actually reset it to the new wheels? The tyre size is the same in any case although they look bigger, probably the black steel rims.

There are dedicated kits on Ebay with special top hat threaded inserts, someone on the forum put up a link to one at a very good price which does both VAG and Vauxhall, so cheap that I bought one just in case although I havn't seen it yet as its in the UK. Similar to this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BlueSpot-16pc-Brake-Thread-Repair-Caliper-Kit-M9-X-1-25-Ford-Vauxhall-VAG-/233673109432?hash=item366800afb8