J.R.

Dont worry Marcus, you are not alone, I had been singing their praises for a decade before my bubble was burst!

They knew how to create cheat algorithms long before the emissions scandal. 'Fair Play" is quite ironic in that regard The needle will sit dead vertical over a wide range of "expected operating temperatures" the downside is if you keep an eagle eye on your guages you wont see any deviation until the problem has reached a critical level at which point the needle will go up (or down) very rapidly.

Are you saying that the track rods are at a significant upright (inclined) angle with the vehicle sitting on the ground? If so it will play havoc with the bump steer. I did worse when young and thinking that it looked cool

I'm fairly sure that the socket in the luggage area of my Yeti is permanently live, I have the towing relay wired through it and it will keep the trailer lights illuminated if the sidelights are left on and the vehicle locked. Because its on all the time and hence the towing relay taking a small amount of current all the time I fitted an on/off switch.

If you get a dealer to print out the service history or do it on-line with ErwinSkoda you will probably find like I myself (whose bonnet catch was equally seized) that the car had only been serviced once or twice and the bonnet had probably never been opened otherwise. It means that you have a reliable car that has not been mucked around with but might need some maintenance items checking.

But its the much stronger 6 speed box that has failed in some instances when a SMF has been fitted. My theory, and that all it is, I am not confidently advocating it as fact, is that its gear chatter and occurs at low RPM's when vibration is evident if a DMF is not functioning or has been replaced by a SMF, I dont believe the gearbox failures have been full load torque failures but fatigue failures. I think we agree that replacing a DMF is going to cause undesirable torsional loadings on the crankshaft and to a lesser degree the drivetrain, I would really like to understand what it is about the 6 speed gearbox that makes it susceptible to damage in these instances when the weaker 5 speed box does not seem to suffer.

An interesting theory, do you really believe it?

I hope this does not come across as a smart Alec response but I dont actually know what the sticker says, its on the LHS and I am blind in the left eye, long sighted in the right & wear distance glasses for driving, I tried to read it tonight but couldn't, in any case its for the passenger not for the driver so I would really like to know how not being able to read the sticker might result in someones death, I had assumed that it was a warning not to use a forward facing baby seat without turning off the airbag and that it would carry a pictogram. I dont understand your references to fire doors etc, it sounds like you dont actually know what the sticker says yet you are confident to say that covering it will put peoples lives at risk. Frenchtone has a good point, should I have mine translated into French but then putting that sticker over the existing one would also be wrong seemingly, lots of people in my area cannot read or write but I dont take passengers.

Thankyou for that It gives me some confidence.

How do you consider that not being able to read an airbag warning sticker could cause someones death?

A guy passed out at the wheel (we believe) of a Citroen van & drove through the front wall of an adjacent property taking out the gas main, I was one of the first on the scene, he was taken away unconscious to hospital. Ambulances, Pompiers & Gendarmes on the scene, road closed & neighbours evacuated, when I pointed out that none of the airbags had deployed nobody was in the slightest bit interested, & this in a country where you are not even allowed to modify a car in any way whatsoever, change a steering wheel or fit a sunstrip etc etc. I will post a photo later if I find the time.

I wonder if the 4WD has a stronger clutch because of the power that can be put down from a standing start? - Anyone? Who has done your remaps please?

And dont forget to not walk on the cracks in the pavement!

Cant help re the choice of clutch or flywheel but it does sound like clutch slip under max torque. I have the same vehicle & engine and had intended to have the same remap but CV19 has hampered my travel, can I ask you for your experiences of it, where did you have it done & did the clutch start to fail soon afterwards? How many mile on the clock etc? And any other info you think of interest. Thanks & good luck.

It does sound like a dribbling injector in which case.

That should be in the joke section I guess I was lucky that when I sold my last car it did not attract the attention of the "more than likely a legal requirement" enforcement Police. Perhaps I should tell the new owner to inform his insurers.

Thats what I came up with when I looked into it in detail before, £499 plus source a connector and make up a loom spliced into the canbus and multiple connections at the front of the vehicle. Had I had 10 years experience I would not have wasted my time fitting the bypass relay (£15 and 30 minutes) and would have known that the factory kit could be fitted for not much more cost and in the same amount of time.

Wow! - there are loads on there for sale, does anyone know where the connectors (if they exist) would be located on the Yeti, perhaps I was looking in the wrong place. If they are indeed part of the factory towbar prep then I think it will be a no go for me and the evangelists should bear this in mind. Does anybody know how many wire cores actually go into the two connectors? I would guess at a minimum 2 for the canbus, a live and a switched live, an earth plus all the cores to the 13 pin socket.

Thanks, I would be confident fitting an OE module knowing that I could do a good job of the connections but would not have confidence in an aftermarket part made down to a price fitted by one of the towbar fitters whose butchery I have often had to correct, its the latter 2 points that give bypass modules a bad name and the commercial pressures & greed/insouciance are no different for an aftermarket canbus module. Thanks for the part number, I will keep my eyes open for one, it will be an interesting and worthwhile project, I have a few questions though. Is the VAG one intended to be plugged in to a dedicated connector? I checked every inch of my wiring and there was no sign of any such animal nor a bundle of insulated and unterminated wires, I presume I would need the module and a section of wiring loom and have to splice it into my loom? - Not the simple job that the evengelists speak of. From memory of looking at a wiring diagram that i did once find it was wired to a 13 pin socket and needed a link wire in the 13 pin plug to tell the system that it was plugged in, is that the case? If so then it wont be compatible wth anything that I tow and an adaptor would have to be modified with the 2 pins linked and could not be left in place permanently. Bypass modules have their place, they do what they say on the tin and comply with the legal requirements for an audible warning or trailer indicators, for someone with a base vehicle like mine without parking sensors and a non infotainment basic radio who wants to put bicycles on a towball mounted rack with a lighting board they are a sensible choice.

Does your BKC start in 1/4 turn both hot & cold or does it crank a little before starting when hot? With the PD engines "quick start" feature it should always start in 1/4 turn, there is a stupid functionality whereby the engine when hot has to crank faster than a certain RPM threshold but not when cold, a slightly weak battery which will start the engine at minus 20°c in 1/4 turn will struggle to start a hot engine & that may be the cause of your shaking.

To answer your question re the motor, it has a permanent 12v live feed, a chassis ground connection and a twisted pair canbus connection, it has a canbus microcontroller on the PCB and recieves all its commands from the body control module in response to inputs from the column stalk switches. To rule out the motor you could remove the canbus wires from the connector & see if it then remains static but that would be fiddly & would generate a fault code although probably not a MIL light, a VCDS scan would reveal if there is an implausible signal from the stalk switch or a canbus comms error. I have a vague recollection that there might be a programming option for the BCM that does something like permanent intermittent rear wipe, there are some strange options, perhaps something has become corrupted.

The remaining part of dipstick stuck further down the dipstic tube is approx 4mm round steel wire/rod, the end is flattened out to form the graduated part which measures the oil level. The inside diameter of the dipstick tube is over 8mm because an 8mm oil suction tube will fit down there, although on mine it catches where it enters the engine block, an oil suction tube or one slightly smaller will probably push down tight over the broken dipstick and allow you to remove it, sorry if I cant explain it better, if you didn't understand before then you probably will be none the wiser now.

The trouble is Mr Childish that not one of the 20 or so red arrows you have awarded to myself (and none to any other member) have been where I have advised a member to use a bypass relay system, because to my knowledge I never have done. Instead of continuing with your childishness how about putting up a links to such information or for where an OE VAG trailer module can be bought for not much more than the cost of a bypass module or even "as little as 2 tanks of fuel" as stated by another contributor who "doesn't get" why anyone wouldn't do as they say. Lets call it €144, a figure which to put it into perspective, since the beginning of the CV19 crisis my monthly revenue has only once surpassed, unfortunatley my fixed outgoings are 6 times that amount. A lot of money to see an image of a trailer that I know that I am towing on my radio. Nonetheless you find me an OE one for that price, that does not involve splicing into the canbus wiring which could compromise every vehicle function (my vehicle like most does not have factory towbar preparation & the loom connector) I will willingly fit one as an interesting project to join your club. €144 also equals my fixed motoring costs for one year, insurance, contrôle technique & carte grise (equivalent of road fund license).

I would not bother them with your childishness, all I am asking you to do is stop awarding unwarranted "unhelpfull" red arrows when I post in response to an appeal for help from another contributor, if you believe something I say is incorrect then please explain why.

So you wrote a cheque out 10 years ago and still feel the pain, how many have towbars & electrics have you fitted yourself since then? it has been known to cause expensive damage. Then please give us the benefit of your experience and explain how. I would still like an explanation of why you repeatedly post "not helpfull" to myself and nobody else simply because I did not follow the path that you tell others to, if you disagree with advice that I give in response to peoples requests then say so and explain why instead of the red arrows, preferably without inventing your own recieved wisdom like "it has been known......."