J.R.

A 7.5° change in temperature will result in that difference, the ambient temperatures have swung much more than that in the last 2 weeks, the OP speaks of using the machine so I assume he was driving the vehicle for the first inflation which will have further heated the tyres. Given that the "machines" normally have to be paid for I am guessing that the subsequent check was done at home, even with the same guage you would be lucky to see the same reading 10 minutes apart let alone 2 weeks.

Factory fitted towbars will have also had uprated rear springs fitted as part of the package, the standard springs sag when carrying the slightest of loads and wallow when towing, the Scout is probably better in this respect and maybe they dont need to uprate the springs on that model with tha factory towbar option. In any case its only €44 for a pair of quality Swedish steel uprated spec rear springs.

Dont pay any attention to the Maxidot figures, they would have been overoptimistic before the remap but now cannot be believed at all, the ECU thinks the engine is recieving less fuel than it is. You must do successive brim to brim refuelling calculations to get the correct figure and if you had not done that beforehand then you have no baseline. If it pulls well with no smoke and your brim to brim calcs are reasonable then you have had great value.

Interesting that the EGR can be disabled by connecting a spare slave throttle valve to the wiring loom leaving the original in place but non functioning. I could try removing the throttle butterfly from the spindle but I think the engine shut down will be very violent. I will reverse the shroud in the first instance and then work on limiting the volume of EGR by a metering hole in a blanking plate.

Well done, that is a result, thes units are a bit of a lottery, the one I currently have was half price as it was a returned unit, no doubt from someone who had loads of grief yet it has been fine to date touch wood. The WinCE ones are very good value for money, wont do what a lot of smartphone afficionados want but they do all I expect of them and far more.

Neither were VAG once and they found a very good way of reducing emissions at MOT. Hence my comment about removal of the E189 "fix", thats probably all the tuners are doing with their economy mapping, they could not do better than a company that applied themselves to the task regardless of cost, and it did indeed cost them dearly eventually.

Petrol or diesel?

Every single manufacturer will have spent millions and thousands of man hours doing just that, OK they are hampered by emissions legislation, or not in the case of VAG So I would suggest that other than undoing an emissions fix to go back to the emissions cheating map you would have to be Einstein and have very deep pockets to make any improvements. Talk is cheap though and many people believe or want to believe the mpg figures from their Maxidot (which are already inflated) after a remap not realising that the ECU thinks the engine is getting less fuel than it is actually consuming, it can be adjusted to a true reading via VCDS but then people cannot boast of impressive MPG and increased power.

Is this what you are looking for? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-SIGNALLING-FLAGS-RED-Swimming-Scouts-Boys-Brigade-Sport-Racing/274417392590?hash=item3fe48d1bce%3Ag%3ACcgAAOSwHiBe3SQl&LH_ItemCondition=4 All the others are new.

If it doesn't crash when you are using the Satnav and any other function, radio, CD, music from memory card, reversing sensors, reversing camera, bluetooth, basically any multi-tasking, then you are laughing, they are a very affordable unit. If it starts crashing and giving you Chinese sick note messages in a Windows type box then you just have to learn what to avoid which causes it (anything!) and they are still reasonable to live with.

Yes but it could fracture the very next day even without showing any outward signs of corrosion, they engaged the best scientific minds know to man to develop the rigid brittle tin foil like material.

Brake disc backplate corroded and mountings fractured.

Were it the venturi of the carburettor of a normally aspirated engine then I would not be surprised at the improvement but for a forced induction engine its unexpected. Now I am wondering what the back of the inlet valves look like, I think I might buy a USB endoscope or remove the manifold to see.

Yesterday I started a thread in this section describing how I had cleaned the throttle valve and inlet manifold tract to remove the soot crud that had built up from the EGR gases, I said that it seemed to run a lot better with more go and I hoped there would be a decrease in fuel consumption as it had always been a dissapointment to me. Tonight I did the 2 x 10 mile return trip to the running club, a trip I do 3 times a week always on empty roads & at the same speeds & always getting the same (indicated) fuel consumption of 45 mpg, tonight it was 53.6 mpg a 19% improvement in fuel economy, even compared to the overall figure on the Maxidot of 47 mpg it is a 14% improvement. I will see what the brim to brim MPG figure is on the next few tank fill ups to see what the overall improvement is but am very pleased with a job which was rewarding to do and cost nothing.

It will be safe now but you should still get the torsion value checked & adjusted.

Blimey a dealer that pays for your return trips to visit them! Thats the only way it would be cheaper for them, I was surprised to read your posting that you thought it reasonable, not a word I would use to describe their conduct. I understand that if you were not able or willing to go there with the car they could not quote for a new wheel key.

Always apply the loading to the wheelbrace with the handle intersecting the centreline (hub) of the wheel that way it puts the minimum turning moment on the wheel which may cause it to roll off a jack or axle stands, if the wheel is free rotating the above done with a sharp reversing movement will snug them up tight & you can do the final tightening on the floor. The advice is even more important when trying to remove stubborn wheelnuts, in that case its safer to do on the ground but you will need to roll the car to get all the nuts in the right position or otherwise be lifting or pulling rather than pushing down.

I realise now that I was dumb to have bought a 3 VIN version.

Erm, you dont need to remove the hub nut to remove a wheel unless you want it to fall off when you replace it!!!!!

His question was about "coding" which would require the VIN to be registered, I would be confident that the answer is that people offering the service have paid for an unlimited VIN version.

I've perfected the art of soldering iron cross stitch over the years and have recovered some irrecoverable breakages and made quite a few Frankenstiens along the way. What changed the game for me was realising that tywraps seem to be the perfect filler rod material for all manner of plastics, for highly stressed areas I also put in some mechanical stitches with racing lockwire before plastic welding. A couple of years ago I invested in a proper hot air gun but TBH I get good results now with a soldering iron and dont weaken or melt the surrounding area.

My engine was shaking and rattling on shutdown which gave me a feeling of dread thinking it was DMF failure however there were no symptoms when driving even if accelerating from 800rpm in 6th gear, I decided to remove the motorised throttle valve for cleaning having read that it could cause this problem if the carbon build up prevented it from closing properly. I was surprised by how clagged up it was, I thought I had left decokes behind me decades ago but it has had the emissions fix so spends too much time ingesting its exhaust gases. It was purely a soot build up and there appeared to be no trace of oil in the turbo pipework, the venturi was restricted, the throttle plate elliptical instead of flat and there was a lot more crud downstream in the inlet manifold which I removed as best I could - tip, stuff a rag in the open air pipe from the intercooler to stop the crud or anything else dropping down there to be ingested later. I also removed the EGR inlet boss & shroud as that too was covered in clag, the open end of the shroud faces upstream towards the throttle valve & opposing the incoming airflow which seemed odd to me, I was tempted to reverse it (it would fit in either direction) but wondered if it was for mixing purposes, the way its aimed you would think they wanted it to clag up the throttle valve. What is the correct orientation of the EGR inlet boss/shroud? There is no EGR valve so I deduce that the throttle valve closes to allow EGR in varying amounts, I am tempted to fit a reducing plate (I have one left over) with a metering hole drilled into it to reduce to a minimum the EGR gases, does this throw up a fault code like on my PD Octavia and if so is there a minimum hole size? Is there in fact any monitoring of the airflow upstream of the throttle valve? - There is nothing on the EGR pipe. Finally the clonky shutdown seems to be resolved and the car seems much better to drive, better low revs/light throttle flexibility and more power on full throttle, it had always seemed gutless before and now it seems to have its 108hp and more, it might be a placebo effect but if the MPG improves then I can be sure. A very worthwhile job for anyone with the same EGR system to tackle, mine only had 80K miles.

B-S!

I have shared your anxiety, pre lockdown when I was rebuilding mine it got started and ran many times & tried regens, I left it idling for long periods but it still brought up the dash warning, one 20 min journey and it was sorted and never returned. Car has been with me here in France since lockdown began and only did short & infrequent journeys but it did not repeat and I never heard it regenning, now I do a 10 mile each way return trip 3 times a week and another 3 very short journeys & all seems fine.