J.R.

Will they be fitting a new or second hand differential JohnC? As long as you dont buy the one that I have been following

Vehicle was not "towed" in the manner you believe.

The old drive Yetis, the young drive Fabias, - simples!

OK, I understand now, - thanks to you both and my apologies to the OP. Yes an orange bulb under a clear lens does look kind of odd when sunlight catches it, I would prefer it if indicator lenses had to be orange by law, some of the recent "styling" attempts by manufacturers have rendered them incapable of fullfilling their intended function. Detangoing, a brilliant phrase!!!

So you have orange bulbs with presumably clear lenses and you want to use plain uncoloured bulbs? Unless I have misunderstood I'm glad you are a long way from the roads that I drive on.

The video presents it as a binary choice but it isn't, either vehicle would have the choice of all season tyres and just because someone chooses a 4wd it does not mean that they wont fit winter tyres. I bought my winter wheels when I realised how useless my Octavia 2 was in snow, the Yeti bought as a project has 4wd but it wasn't a choice, I will of course fit the winter tyres but the AWD brings advantages all year round, its a much safer vehicle even though I never use its capabilities, the lack of wheelspin when pulling across a wet or greasy junction is worth the increase in fuel consumption. I would not have chosen a 4wd Yeti but if I have to replace it I now would.

If its done, and its a big if, then its the de minimis amount that was seperated from the gas evacuated before recycling. Do you realise that there are at least 10 different types of Pag & equivalent oils that are compressor specific? If the wrong type or wrong viscosity is used or if the system has more oil than the specified limit then compressor damage will ensue.

No it doesn't.

No question about that. Whether totally disconnected or partially engaged there will be slippage of the plates due to the lack of a centre differential which with the organic plate material will discolour the fluid and build up solids on the inlet filter screen. My car has developed a noticeable transmission snatch sometimes when pulling away forwards after having reversed on lock, in both cases under an idling engine, no load to speak of so no Haldex engagement, I am not sure if its the plate pack sticking (I hope it is) or the first real sign of diff failure after having chosen the wrong hole I think its the former because it does not snatch when driving on lock in either direction, has anyone else ever experienced it?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-QC-3-0-Car-Boat-USB-Phone-Charger-Socket-LED-Voltmeter-ON-OFF-Switch-/313131743863?var=&hash=item48e81b3a77 Keep an eye on them, they are frequently listed for less, I pay around £4.50 delivered. Like here! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-4-2A-Dual-USB-Car-Motorcycle-Charger-Socket-Adapter-Outlet-LED-Voltmeter/264627199821?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D26aeee40deb64001a235ef66c4dbc3c9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D313131743863%26itm%3D264627199821%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I fit a similar one to all my vehicles, its made for motorcycles or open cars & has a weatherproof cover which I dont use, its round with the LED voltage readout and an USB socket plus a small on/off rocker switch. When switched off you cannot see the LED segments & its just a discreet black socket. IMO its essential for a modern vehicle that is not regularly used where the standby current can deplete the battery, I have a new battery which I would not have needed to buy had I installed the voltmeter worse still because it ran down once its capacity and life are significantly reduced according to my load tester.

Anyway to avoid confusion I will describe the changes and the results, too much grief trying to find the right scan (the file description does not contain the info i put in to identify each one). I disconnected the Bluetooth module & then scanned, sure enough no communications, I then removed the module from the installation list in the Canbus module, cleared fault codes, scanned again and all is well, it does not appear to be trying to connect to phones but I have not driven it yet. Then I removed the radio (module 56) from the canbus module installation list and did the same again. Now it shows (cant recall the words ) but cannot communicate and the Canbus module is showing an "incorrectly coded" error code. This was exactly what happened on my Octavia when I was playing around doing similar stuff. This might be the scan, am getting them all mixed up & dont know where this will appear on the page, - its appeared at the bottom of the page. I think Langers was spot on, the radio is taking the canbus info (its still functioning fine) and also sending something out, the cars canbus recognises it as a signal from a radio but cannot interpret it, maybe because I removed "Radio" from the installation list, so a radio trying to talk to a canbus module that has no radio listed must be "incorrectly coded" I will try to put up the last scan of the current programming: Scan-TMBMC75L6F6053795-20201008-1521-143940km-89440mi.txt I will keep an eye on the battery voltage and reinstate the radio on the installation list if there is a problem, it switches off as it did before. Scan-TMBMC75L6F6053795-20201008-1516-143940km-89440mi.txt

Had a VCDS session today and can report that once again the VCDS Meister was spot on!! Here is the auto-scan (I hope) before doing any recoding with the OE radio removed and the Chinese head unit fitted: Scan-TMBMC75L6F6053795-20201008-1502-143940km-89440mi.txt Took me ages to even find the bloody file and now it wont show on the posting, I hate feckin computers, had VCDS for a couple of years now and have only just mastered how to do a scan properly, I have an icon on the desktop with them in and can find them there easily enough.

The plate wear and oil discolouration is completely normal and not caused by "launches" quite the opposite in fact, were it possible for the Haldex clutch to be permanently engaged there would be zero plate wear or discolouration but the transmission wind up would probably break the guido coupling and/or the front transfer box. There is always a small amount of torque transmitted by the Haldex and there will always be slippage of the plates (except under launch conditions) as the transmission does not have a centre differential, the front & rear axles follow different paths whenever the car is not steering straight ahead, even in a straight line there will be slippage (hence wear & discolouration) due to difference in tyre wear.

But as someone with A/C maintenance experience he knows that if the system is working well there is no need to line the pockets of the garage. Regarding the brake fluid change, I dont think that anybody questions that it is hygroscopic and will with time deteriorate but there are many affordable and accurate testers available. The fluid on my MK1 Octavia was tested every year in the workshop of the Lycée Technique where I worked (they taught mechanics, body repair, supply chain logistics and HGV driving) and always passed, the tester was sent off for calibration every year. It would have still had the original fluid when I scrapped it at 18 years old but I had cracked & changed the fluid in its last year, I did repeated abusive brake tests till the pads were smoking both before and after the fluid change and there was no noticeable difference, the pedal was not any firmer, I simply had some imaginary peace of mind. Had my vehicle been main dealer serviced a lot of money would have gone on unnecessary (in this case) brake fluid changes and anything else that they dream up to fill their coffers. OTOH I had one of the first RHD Ford Galaxies that had a recall because rian water shed from the scuttle was entering the master cylinder reservoir through the sensor cap & then finding its way to the lowest point rusting everything in its path. I had by that time already replaced my rusted master cylinder & naturally I bled the entire system, the front calipers literally bled pure water initially & prior to the master cylinder failing I would frequently suffer brake fade & a spongy pedal when driving too spiritedly towing a trailer with my race car & the vehicle full of pit tools, wheels & tyres etc. So I know first hand the importance of not having deteriorated brake fluid but all they need to do is test it during a service & then they could have another line to trot out like brake discs & pads 75% worn

Thanks, so from what you have said I cant print out a service history including my own services? Cant see the point in spending the time & money in which case, I would only be doing it to have something to pass on to the new owner when I sell, up to now I have stamped the service book. I suppose I could save a screen shot.

Fitting a new pump every 30K miles sounds like a nice little earner.

I suppose that there will be some garages that expect every customer to pay for the syringe tool they use to do the job on the basis that they had to buy it specially. My Haldex service cost €19 in TVA for 1 litre of oil delivered from Germany, no need to change filler or drain plugs except to boost garage profits (my opinion, others will do what they feel comfortable with) & I didn't change the O rings as they were in good condition & any leak would be visible, I have hundreds of various size O rings plus O ring cord & a splice set so dont need to purchase O rings just in case. I would be happy with £68 to do a Haldex service & oil change but am just a Fred in a shed & dont have a shiny showroom & staff overheads to pay.

I will keep my eye open, I already have an LED voltmeter display that is visible from outside the vehicle after shagging a new battery on the old car through the canbus not sleeping. This journey will be worthwhile just for the learning even if it doesn't achieve anything.

My gut feeling on the radio (based on zero knowledge or experience) is that it just interpretes and decodes the relevant data and displays it or reacts to it, speed, door open signals, reverse gear engaged etc etc, I dont see why it would be doing any talking back. Maybe tomorrow we will find out!!!!

Thanks, I will have a play tomorrow and do an autoscan at the same time. For some reason even after a couple of years I never manage to get anything into an auto-scan even if I can find where it has been saved, I think the problem has been because I always used the "gateway installation list" scan because it was quicker. I will RTFM carefully and do a scan first and make sure it has the codings etc contained within before doing any changes. Thanks for giving me the confidence to have a play!

I have created a new password and have got access once again to Erwin Skoda but no real access unless I pay out the €7 so will plan what I need to download, when i do that is it simply a question of filling out my vehicles VIN and registering it and will I then be able to fill out the service I did back whenever I did it? And more importantly will it show up any previous service records? Can you add other things like Haldex oil changed & filter cleaned, brake disc replacements etc etc? Maybe I should wait till the next service.

When I did the above on my Octavia it was always bringing up fault codes where it was looking for but could not find the radio (no surprise really) but it was fault code city generally & is sold now. I fitted a similar Chinese WinCE unit to the Yeti without thinking through the consequences regarding the standard factory fitted Bluetooth option. The radio works fine but the maxidot keeps trying to connect to previous owners phones and I cant seem to delete them as I think it has to be done via the radio that is now removed. I have no need for the factory bluetooth system, I have a non smartphone with me when I travel and never make calls when driving & very rarely recieve them, I'm quite happy like that. The Maxidot constantly trying to connect to a big long list of phones does bug me though VCDS brings up fault codes with the canbus not being able to communicate with the radio, the radio module not being found (both no surprise) and with the Bluetooth module showing both left and right speakers being short circuited, that I think is because its now connected to a different radio via the existing wiring. Looking through the Canbus module options there is one called "Installation list" and it looks to me if I simply uncheck both "Radio" and "Bluetooth" modules from the list my problems might be over. Is it as simple as that or am I missing something fundamental, I am thinking that I might need to physically disconnect the Bluetooth module. What are your thoughts? It would be really nice after all this time to have a vehicle with no fault codes

I have only just seen this, you wont believe how much time I spent working blind (which I am quite good at) trying to remove the connector from the control unit and then still being unable to remove the pump because of the upper cable clip which I could feel but not see and could not remove. I had to strain the cable to disengage the pump and then to clean it in situ hanging on the cable. It was before this was posted so I dont feel quite so bad but will be saving this as a favorite for next time. The tip about rotating the controller is inspired. Chapeau à vous Monsieur!

Haldex is very reliable as long as its kept away from the main stealers because on their planet it does not have a filter. Also keep it away from people who are not very discriminatory about which hole they use