J.R.

Excellent result! It looks like they are just a spring tension fit in the cups, I had thought they were rivetted, a design that cant cope with the harmonics involved, the constant accelerations & decellerations. My compressors, same part number but Sanden manufactured have rivetted straps but it would take a major seizure for them to shear, far more likely that the hub splines would strip which they did twice to me. I sold the car last week so the problem can not come back to haunt me, I have an unused spare compressor and a new hub drive for it if the same thing happens to the Yeti. When I was regassing it and still learning my way on A/C I filled it too quick with the bottle inverted and there was a hydraulic lock, the engine snatched before I could release the pressure, it will have put stress on the pump internals and the shear plate, time will tell. Pleased that you diagnosed and fixed the problem without shelling out for a garage to fit a new compressor & regas, good on you!

"Without" rather than "before" would have been a better choice of word but the end result is the same, if you run a tyre at full rated load continously above its maximum rated speed it is likely to result in a catastrophic failure, the ambient temperature will either hasten its demise or might possibly save it but usually the temperature and pressure will keep climbing and like any pressure vessel without a safety blow off valve it will finally go bang.

A pass on the test means that the tyre can be taken up to the rated speed under full rated load for 10 minutes without it exceeding a temperature and pressure threshold, if it remains within those parameters for 10 minutes with the temperature and pressure stable then it is likely to maintain the rated speed under full load all day long without any risk. If it exceeds the temperature & pressure threshold then if the test were continued or the vehicle driven on the autobahn for an extended period then the tyre would fail and it would not take long at all with the temperature and pressure continually rising. At that speed there would be only one failure mode, - catastrophic!!!!

Someone has bashed a hole through the middle of the catastrophic convertor matrix and the dislodged pieces are rattling around. If you remove all the material to avoid this then it resonates like a tin can. It could also be a baffle in the silencer but sounds exactly like the former, if it is then you will also hear it from underneath the front beside the cat where the bits are bashing it from the inside.

Their speaketh someone who I have no doubt has his oil changes done by a garage who I have even more certainty will have never removed an undertray and drained the oil from the plug, wont stop them invoicing a new plug each time because they claim that the 20mm fine pitch threads stretch when the bolt is tightened into aluminium. Your reflection on others applys equally to yourself. I recommend everyone removes their undertray and does a manual oil change at least once even if they have a suction rig because the likelyhood is that it has never been removed before & the rear bolts will be seized, if you manage to extract them you can use anti-seize compound on them. The one on my Octavia had never been off in 12 years and 122000 miles and the sump plug had never ever been removed. Anyone who has ever done their own oil changes would not question the wisdom or mock others who use a suction rig and I speak as someone who spent 48 uneccessary years on their back doing oil changes.

I adapted the headlight to LHD on my MK1 by rotating the bulbs, it did a good job but the cut off line became a bit blurred & the kick up was reduced and undefined. When my eyes deteriorated and my night vision suffered I bit the bullet and bough new Hella LHD units and suddenly I had bright white light ahead of me, more than double the illumination and it was nothing to do with the beam cut off angle, it was even more impressive on full beam. My old clear lenses still looked perfectly clear, untarnished & unscratched but it was the micro scratching that was diffsuing the light and even more so the reflector that looked silver and shiny until compared to the new one, I tried the new and old side by side and the difference blew me away, I even swopped the bulbs as I had read they deteriorated but there was no difference, it was all in the micro scratches and tarnishing of the reflectors. The MK2 even with brand new LHD halogen projector units was appalling by comparison, a dim yellow light thanks to PWM reduction of the bulb voltage, I fitted an HID conversion kit immediately.

It justs needs the words re-arranging that is all! It is the highest speed the tyre can safely maintain within the load limits of the tyre. That is the biggest and most dangerous load of crap I have ever heard!

The EU certificate of conformity for my 108hp Yeti type 5L Variant ACCFHFX1 shows only one homologated tyre & wheel combination for front & rear axles. 205/50 R17 93T 6Jx17 ET45 Only problem is that it left the factory with 16" wheels 🥴 I wish I hadn't checked it now, I registered it in France using a newly issued UK MOT (a car cannot be sold or registered by a new owner without a test certificate issued within the last 6 months) which is now valid for 2 years here! However its likely to fail on the wheels/tyres at the next CT test. Update, under section 52 Remarks it shows several other 16" & 17" wheel & tyre combinations with speed ratings of 91T, 95T & 94T. So I am relieved now, maybe even my winter wheels will be compliant.

Driving like every litre is the last one on the planet I am only getting 44/45 mpg from my 2.0 TDi 108hp brim to brim (Maxidot 47.1 displays average) which is a big dissapointment after 60 mpg + Octavias, I get better mileage from a 4 mile round trip in town with a stop than I do from a 20 mile empty A road trip never exceeding 60mph with one stop. You guys are equalling that with petrol engines and probably getting to use a lot more of their performance and on much more congested roads. I am considering buying an older EU4 pre emissions fix one, I will check your advert out.

I still have not found a rigid or rigidish thin wall tube to pass through the dipstick tube of my Yeti, in the meantime the suction pump stopped working and after getting filthy spending ages trying to get it working like many tools I swear at I found the plastic has cracked where the plunger assembly is sealed to the container. I have done the first oil change the old way & wont be buying a new suction pump, a more expensive on this time, until I have found a suitable source of a decent extraction tube. In the meantime I did an oil change on the Octavia before selling it & found I had a hand held Lidl fluid transfer pump, it had a semi rigid 6mm/3.5mm tube which would lift diesel but not old thin engine oil on the hottest day of the year. If anyone finds a suitable copper or aluminium tube then let me know, I want to buy a new suction vessel for future oil changes.

Deleted, did not read your posting properly.

Yes no neutral conductor can be any any colour other than blue, no earth conductor can be anything but yello/green, any other colour is acceptable for phase. On any modern installation the colours will be respected but as soon as you plug anything into a socket like a table lamp you have a 50/50 chance of whether the contacts on the wall socket have the correct polarity and a 50/50 chance that the plug will be wired the correct way, its likely to be a 2 pin plug anyway so another 50/50. Its for that reason I dont believe the surface mount LED's could have one leg at neutral (or live if reversed) potential. Plus the bloke on Youtube would have made hay. Attached is a photo of the wiring on a 240vac shower heater in a hôtel in Peru, Bolivia or Chilé (cant recall) where people were complaining that everytime they touched their bathroom taps they got an electric shock, it certainly gave a tingling shower!! As you can see it was a brand new installation, no earth although it looks like a yellow/green conductor tucked up behind.

So 72000 miles then? Thats nothing, I bought a 3 year old Octavia that had done 188000 miles (my pal was a chauffeur) and over 13 years took it up to 325000 miles with zero problems, and I really mean zero.

I had control module defective fault codes for my instrument cluster everytime I scanned with VCDS, it worked perfectly, all of its functions worked, it communicated with all the other modules, I had read elsewhere that it was a bug and needed a VAG dealer to upload the latest firmware. In the words of Paul Calf, - "Bag O shoite!"

Thankyou for your kind & reassuring words Ricardo 😀 I will sleep easier knowing in the knowledge that I have your blessing to carry on dreaming.

Only one way to find out! - dont forget to lick your finger first. I dont think your hypothesis is correct or you would have heard all about it by now, in my country there is no distinction between phase & neutral when it comes to wiring, there is a convention but nobody is even aware of it, even manufacturers like LeGrande make double sockets where the live & neutral pins are reversed on one socket. Its the reason that there are no switched sockets, all MCB's are double pole and you rarely find an on/off switch on a domestic made appliance. There are plenty of people on Youtube who expose dangerous electrical items, one that springs to mind is the 240v element for boiling water in a cup, someone will probably link to it, that guy spends his life looking for ways to electrocute himself, if he doesnt have the LED lights on his channel than they are not dangerous.

I can still see colours thankyou. I have monocular and not binocular vision. I have 10/10 vision with glasses in the functional eye. The repair was done mainly by feel which is a skill I developed 45 years ago when my eyesight was as good as anyones, when filling & flatting the human eye cant see what will show up when the colour coat goes on but the fingertips can with experience. You could look at the panel and you might see where the repair is by looking up from the ground in bright light, it has sunk and I wasn't after perfection, but you wont see the line between the old & new paint.

Well said and explained Truckbus UK. Expect at least one red downward arrow for your troubles!

MR16 are 12 volt. Even if the GU10's are the same the faceplate with the LED's will be at a couple of volts DC, so long as you cannot get a small finger into the live contacts then they are intrinsically safe and meet the regulations. Think about the socket for the GU10 ones or worse still a standard ceiling rose or even worse a table lamp bulb holder. Re the wattage, it says 3*3 watts so I guess they are 3 watt leds driven by a modulated current, most would blow very quickly if run at the rated current.

If you are not willing to even look with your own eyes then you might as well toss a coin and believe who you wish. And as for asking strangers on a forum who to believe without even looking to describe what you saw or taking a photograph...................... Maybe a tarot card reader?

MR16 9 watt. Power consumption 5.5 - 6.5 watts. What do they know that I dont?

What was the malus charge on first registration? Better still what was the overall cost for the carte grise?

Yes, there are too many reports of the ratchet pawl releasing. I had one of the first Mitsubishi Shoguns & if you were to lean across to reach something and put light pressure on the top of the handbrake it would release with a bang all the way to the off position, quite disconcerting but it never did it unattended, it needed an external force. And even if the pawl was only slightly engaged on the Skoda handbrakes it should only release one tooth on the ratchet not release completely. I preferred a fly off handbrake as you had to physically engage the pawl & it was a positive engagement not a sprung action and you could feel that it was fully home. Does anyone else have the habit that I have of keeping the button depressed when raising the handbrake & releasing it to lock? I do it to prevent wear on the pawl which might just be the problem with these self releasing handbrakes and also to prevent noise for the passengers. I also always roll my foot off the brake momentarily at the point of the vehicle coming to a complete halt, a PSV drivers reflex but I rarely see bus drivers doing that any more even when there are standing passengers.

I've been using these tools since the 80's and never yet had the correct pitch combination between the tool & the self adjust mechanism, granted its easier when the pitch is less because it doesn't bind. I recall the first time ever finding out that a tool was needed was at the Folembray race circuit close to where i now live, Sierra rear calipers on my Caterham, I had gone through the rear pads in the morning session and had to retract the pistons with water pump pliers and levers, after that I will never moan that a retraction tool is difficult to use.

Are these moments by any chance always when the vehicle is at a standstill? Will it ever rev above 2.5K rpm at a standstill? If the answers are Yes and No then there is no problem, they are all like that! Forget the above, I didnt take in the part that if you cycle the ignition the fault goes away. Unless there is a failure of some sort of the speed monitoring system as 2.5k rpm is what the revs are limited to at standstill until you move away a couple of yards.