J.R.

I was always told to think for myself, not to blindly believe what I was always told, to think for myself, to always try to understand the reasoning behind what you are always told, to decide for yourself if it was correct and to always re-evaluate if its still correct in a chnaging world (E handbrakes etc). Because in many cases it was an old wives tale passed on by someone who did not think for themselves. Actually nobody told me the above, I worked it out the hard way. I am very much the exception in the country which I have made my home. I should also add that I will have more or less confidence dependant on the person passing on said advice, those that repeatedly trot out "I was taught XYZ honkytonk years ago" or "I was always told" I give less credence to.

My bad, I had gone back to the first post to see the OP's location but must have instead seen the first one from Jev. - I realise now I had gone back to see the age of the vehicle and assumed that the OP was the one last commenting. People dont usually do test drives at night, even with the lights on you would not be able to discern the speedo needle illumination in daylight. I can see now that the OP did indeed say that the needle did not work and the photo showed it in the rest position. Fit for purpose in the case of a vehicle means one that will fulfill its function of transporting people, were you to buy a new speedometer with said fault there would be an argument that it was not fit for purpose but a weak one, much easier to contest whether it is of merchantable quality or as described. Its a 9 year old second hand vehicle, the speedo is illuminated as required, the illumination of instrument needles is a relatively recent thing.

One screw holding the dogbone pull strap then yank the whole panel off with maximum aggression, dont be meek.

I have a feeling that should you ever move to Latvia you would find it hard to adapt. I wouldn't even fancy your chances with that approach in Stockport with a 9 year old vehicle.

The speed rating of the tyres fitted should be those homologated by the manufacturer for that model, its probably not so important in the UK but over here the vehicle will fail its CT if it has anything than the homologated tyre size & rating and insurers are very zealous in refusing claims for the most ridiculous of reasons that would never stand up to a legal appeal. Why? - because they always have done and people meekly accept it. There is also the load rating, a vehicle could potentially carry a maximum payload and drive at its maximum speed for hours on end on a German Autobahn. I have no reservations about driving on lower speed rated tyres as I generally remain within the speed limits but over here its the CT test which is the killer and also no tyre fitting place will fit anything other than the homologated tyres.

All of the dedicated VAG ones have, in fact all of them have, all the dedicated ones have is a correct fascia shape & the VAGcanbus protocole programmed in, you can find them all in the settings if you get the factory code. They also have a function to learn steering wheel controls, the dirt cheap £80 unit I fittedd to the Yeti worked out of the bow with the wheel buttons although the forward and back arrows for music tracks etc which are left & right pointing on the steering wheel do the opposite of what my logic says they should be. A first world problem.

Where can I buy tyres that have 10.6mm of tread depth? I currently have a buyer wanting money back one week after buying my last car because the rear tyres have 5mm of tread and he has a puncture on one which he says is not a puncture as its obvious that the rubber has worn so thin the tyre is deflating. 🥴 He also doesn't like the ride height of the uprated rear springs, declared in the ad, that he wanted for towing, the height he saw multiple times during the 2 hour inspection (after I had driven it 600kms to deliver it to him returning by TGV) because his trailer drawbar is lower & he doesn't want to use a drop plate as was clearly visible in the photos.

The factory setting is negative camber, I doubt that yours is excessive or even out of tolerance unless someone has been playing with it. Your first step should be to check the tracking and adjust if necessary.

That would be my thought also, it could however be permanently commanded due to another failure (temp setting knob?) so I would start by disconnecting it and if no different then give the area around it the good news with a hammer & drift, not the valve itself as the external part is plastic. It is located at the rear of the compressor at about the 14.00 position viewed from the crankshaft pulley, you can just squeeze your hands down to release the connector.

I think it relates to a small control current being used to sense that it is connected and there is a battery voltage present before the current can flow, you certainly cannot get a spark by flashing the leads together like you could with a battery and jump leads (dont try this at home children). Note they used the word "connections" and not "disconnection", preventing sparks on the latter would be a challenge. In truth any spark during connection is probably a momentary disconnection.

Yes, between all my appartments I have over 100 7 watt LED spots and have been constantly repairing/replacing them for years, the initial ones were hand soldered and from each scrap one which was only one of the series LEDS that had failed I could desolder the others ane repair 6 others, all those remaining have been repaired many times now and I had to buy new stock several times, the later ones are cheaper but surface mount and dont fail as often but fail they still do. I have probably bought 300 now and have maybe 40 in stock, but for the lack of lettings this year they would be virtually wiped out. My own appartment that gets the most use after 6 years of this now has some original and repaired ones that seem to be hanging together and have lasted a couple of years. I have 2 studios that had GU10 spots, i put 5 watt (I think) LED replacement bulbs in them, probably 40 in all, due to the smaller size and no heat sinks etc I expected them to fail quickly but I have never had to replace a single one of them, they were also the cheapest ones from Ali-Express like the spots. On all of the spots I took measures to space the insulation above them and have now taken to making holes in it, there is a big air space above of 1m on the ground floor and 0.5m on the 1st floor as the building had very high ceilings. As unreliable as they are I would have replaced far more halogen spots and used a lot more electricity.

Climatronic or manual?

I have been meaning to ask this question when Coppaslip gets mentioned. I have been using it for years and whilst nothing I have used it on has subsequently rusted solid and has always come apart none of the assemblies felt like they had any lubrication or anti-sieze when taken apart a year or so later, do you actually find that the stuff works as in does what it says on the tin or is it just good marketting? An obvious example would be my wheel bolts, they were very corroded when I got the car, I cleaned all the oxidisation off & copperslipped the threads, next time I removed the wheels it did not feel nor look like there was any lubrication, protection or anti-seize, they weren't corroded again but felt like they had been assembled dry. Now I use a product called Dyna-seize (run out of coppaslip & it was kicking around) which is a food grade high temp anti seize grease and on subsequent disassembly things are free running & lubricated. Its almost like Coppaslip evaporates & washes away and the copper colour is just some dye and there is probably a teaspoon of copper particles thrown into every ton of product when being mixed.

You try it with your cack hand and also being blind in the left eye, normal tactile rotary controls, knobs, switches etc are no problem but even a tablette held in front of me and to my right, operating it with my right hand and looking straight at it with my functioning right eye because I have lost the binocular vision and parallax its impossible to type even on the large keyboard. Just using the Satnav a 7 or 8" screen at a standstill is a real challenge to type in an address or postcode, I would not dare try while driving not would I dare try adjusting touch screen heater or any other controls.

It works like religion, people believe what they want to believe. When you think about it VAG introduced variable service limits years ago when all it meant was car A's service indicator came on at a lower mileage or earlier than car B and often the driving styles of Mrs A & Mr B would have suggested the opposite. Then the guys who think up nonsensical names for algorithm generated variables in VCDS came up with "Oil quality" its not a real measuring block like coolant or oil temperature, more akin to the AC compressor load which is just a calculated figure and does not even know that the shear plate has let go and the compressor is seized solid.

I am still trying to decide if it was my imagination, was the noise always there & I just did not notice it. It does not seem to be getting worse although I can hear it at lower speeds but then my senses are on high alert for it. I really need to do a long high speed journey towing a large flat fronted trailer including some mountain sections to really put it to the test and give myself peace of mind. Maybe one day I will get to ride in someone elses Yeti 4x4, little point asking them if theirs is noisy as its subjective. It could even be tyre noise. I guess I should change the oil again after a year and see what it looks like, but I could only be sure when that second fill of oil is changed again as there will still be flushing going on.

Thanks for the response. Yes it did look like a 2nd sender on the other side, 7Zap had shown it as something else (the fuel pump?) so I removed the one on the left, the one on the right looked identical but only had 1 cable, the second one on the other sensor I believe is for the low fuel level light. I am not looking to recalibrate but to have the exact answer to your final question, 0km never means zero fuel as they have always quoted a reserve capacity, I am firly sure now that mine is 4.5 litres 1 gallon, after 20 years i am used to the peculiarity of the fuel guage, ignoring the "miles remaining" maxidot display the fuel guage is super accurate, you just have to understand that full is full and empty is not empty but a reserve capacity. The maxidot shows an accurate miles remaining on fill up based on previous average consumptions, its dead accurate down to just under half a tank and then it gradually removes miles from the remaining figure until it shows zero when there is one gallons worth less, if you drive till it runs out you will hot exactly the original range figure shown on the maxidot. I did this on the first tankfull on the MK2 Octavia, ran it dry (70 miles after 0 miles remaining) and then put 5 litres in from a jerrycan, the range went up to 40 miles which is pretty amazing for probably 1cm of fuel depth, I drove to the nearest filling station, after 1 mile the range had dropped to 20 miles, after 2 down to 5 miles & after another hundred yards it showed zero miles, so even with only 5l in the tank it still followed the same algorithm to give me a 4.5l reserve capacity. I wont be screwing with it!

Sounds like the website, yes mine was an Estate, its easy to select your vehicle.

From the bloke who bought mine last week specifically for towing & because it had uprated springs but now decides he should have been told that the ride height was 20mm higher and objects to having to fit a drop plate (I kept the one that I had on it) because his trailer drawbar is too low, he really did ring up complaining and expect me to pay him for newer new springs (they were only a year old) and 2 new tyres because he had punctured one in driven with it flat 🥴 Now I have got that off my chest what you need are Lesjofors part number 4295088, highly recommended (except by one person) and I have just fitted a set to my Yeti 4x4 Outdoor for which they are the standard fitment. On the Octavia Estate they give a slight lift and a higher spring rate without any change in ride comfort or handling. Cost €22 each plus €15 delivery anywhere in Europe bought direct, webpage can be set to English.

How many miles would that rapid charge get you? And what would be the cost of the KW/H of getting the same charge (slower) at home or do you have free charging somewhere?

Ooops, my bad 🥴 I have vision problems & missed the Sanden completely, or more likely read it but failed to register the significance. Sounds a reasonable price, I paid £130ish for Chinese Sanden units.

Had forgotten that I had started this thread, was googling for the next Yeti salvage project (yes I am hooked) and this came up Anyway it was an easy repair and cost £800 in all bringing the total cost of the vehicle up to £4K, a tiny fraction of what its worth here in France, so yes it became a keeper. Have been driving it for 6 months. Airbag kit = reconditioned dashboard (invisible repairs & like new), 3 airbags, seatbelt pyrotechnic mechanism & some connectors thrown in was £325 IIRC from a Polish guy, inner bumper beam £60, outer bumper re-used as undamaged, aircon condensor €50, airbag controller reset for about £30 including return postage, struggling to think what the other expenses were, probably the LHD headlights & the 2nd key, neither of which were actually needed for the repair. Most expensive bit was £60 or so for the inner grille slats, the only bit of obvious visual damage. Car is as good as new and you would never know that it has been repaired let alone that it was classed as Cat S structural damage (automatic when airbags deployed) There is a low milage late Karoq SE currently bid up to £2K on Copart, a slight dent to one rear door and it has set off all the upper curtain airbags making it curtains for the vehicle , a very easy repair for someone.

I sincerely hope you got it for a bargain price, anyone that abuses a vehicle like that deserves to take a big hit.

So I have some info, the testing did not go as planned. Access to the fuel pump & sender access hatches is harder than on the Octavia, rear seats removed (simple on Yeti) and seat mounting rails removed then solid moulded carpetted trim tray can be removed, access is via plastic push in caps rather tha screwed metal plates & they have let a lot of road dust enter & no doubt are responsable for the rear axle noise that I hear. LH float level sensor has a feed & return pipe going to the pump on the other side which prevents it being withdrawn, its a telescopic spring fit so sits tight to the bottom of the tank as does no doubt the pump so the system draws and returns fuel from the very bottom of both sides of the saddle tank. I was on a very slight incline but there was only 10-15mm of fuel showing at the front, not enough to siphon & I would have needed to do the other side as well so I decided simply to measure the top up as I have done before. It should be noted that with the fuel pick up points at the front of the tank when you are very close to running out the first indications of fuel starvation will be when going uphill. So I drove to the filling station and carefully brimmed the 60 litre tank, I had driven approx 3 miles since the maxidot showed 0 miles remaining. I brimmed it at 55.5 litres exactly as the time before on zero remaining miles, I then very patiently tried to squeeze every last drop in and got it to 56.5 litres with the fuel to the top of the filler neck, I did not do this last time so 55.5 litres is the figure. That means a one gallon fuel reserve when zero miles showing which is a lot less miles on this vehicle than my previous Octavias 44 miles, maybe 50 if I drove exceptionally slowly. So I have my answer but not through my preferred method, its consistent with my 2 previous Skodas and I will continue to fill up as close to zero miles as I can and to note how much fuel goes in to the same level. I know that if zero miles comes up with 435 on the trip counter I have to fill up before 480 miles. On the Octavias with a smaller 55 not 60 litre tank my range was 700 miles, some progress 🙁 I guess I have the emissions fix to thank for that and the DPF & regens.

Short of being blocked or obstructed there really is no way a condensor could not work, its a passive device, sounds more like parts bingo to me. Not even sure how you could test a condensor. Its true that if the system has been open & moisture got into the system, the dessicator saturated & moisture in the AC gas the efficiency of the cooling will be reduced but a condensor not working? thats a new one on me but I'm still learning & welcome anyones explanation.