J.R.

The indicator lamp will be lit up in response to one or more of scores of potential fault codes, the very first thing that you should do is to have the fault codes scanned, even a cheap generic OBDII reader should give you a code(s) that causes the MIL light to illuminate, asking what problems others had is pointless unless you like playing parts bingo.

I doubt that children will be able to understand the rules of the game or have the attention span to listen to them, I am still scratching my head. @Gizmo 1st picture looks blue to me but I could accept it is green as I am Green/Blue colour blind which pun intended is not Black and White! 😁 The second vehicle is Blue to me all day long.

Water pump is belt driven so always "active" in that the impellor turns, during cold start a sleeve is deployed which shrouds the impellor stopping the circulation, its the pressure developed from the pump which powers the sleeve against a return spring, the actuator is a valve allowing the water to pressurise a bellows moving the sleeve. Its default power off position is undeployed and is maintained there by spring pressure so unless you are unlucky to have the sleeve stuck permanently whilst deployed which would have left the car undriveable then it will be safe to disconnect the connector when the engine is cold, it is not a case that the water pump will not be activated but that the sliding sleeve will not be deployed, the engine will warm up slower and the heater output non existant during that time You were unfortunate to have the sleeve stuck open, if that were the case the car would have overheated and boiled over within a few miles of driving, was that what happened to yours?

Mine too, I am stuck with Gendarmerie Blue on this my hopefully final vehicle, looks dirty all the time, no surprise as its never washed but the silver predecessors always looked good with 18 months of grime on them. I am surprised about black and white being the 2nd and 3rd "most chosen" colours, surely they would be at the bottom of most peoples list, I suspect those colours are chosen by the financially driven lease companies & PCP selling dealers who probably order the majority of the new vehicles or buyers not wanting to wait longer for delivery. I wonder what tiny percenteage of new car sales are from buyers who have specified the colour that they want rather than accepting what is offered and being willing to pay the premium and wait for its production? In France it would be a fraction of one percent, if you went into any dealer and said I want to buy a new Turdmobile they would say you can have this one here or that one there, if you said no I want mine in such and such a colour they would just laugh at you like if you asked for a vegetarian meal in a resto or a coffee or non alcoholic drink in a bar.

The only part on the vehicle that gets hot and is under a tenner 😃 You are barking up the wrong tree, you do not diagnose an overheating engine by looking for the hottest part which will always be the exhaust or DPF. Your problem is a common one, the sliding sleeve on the water pump, it will go away of you disconnect the connector from the actuator but you will have to drive a lot further before getting heat from the heater. At 3°c today from a cold start I had good heat from the heater vents within one mile, on my previous TDis it could take 8 miles. If you are not able to remove the connector or want to retain the fast warm up function (its great while it works) then you will need a new water pump.

With VCDS you can see the percentage of engagement of the Haldex while you are driving (in a safe place) or by graphing using live data but I could never work out how to do the latter. It is very revealing to see when and under what circumstances it kicks in and even when engaged it momentarily disengages periodically to prevent any transmission wind up. If you can do that in OBD11 then I would look and see if it is being commanded at the times you percieve it not to be working when it should, if it is then it will be a mechanical or electro-mechanical problem, if it isn't then you start looking at other sensor inputs that would inhibit it, I cant think of any other than the obvious wheel speed sensors but it would be a case of the software being written so that the Haldex cannot be commanded when the handbrake is engaged for example, and by chance that is a good example because it is a real one!

Does your car have an auto light sensor? Otherwise I cannot see any advantage of daylight running lights when the main lights are switched on.

As I do not want to go back through pages can you please explain what you are talking about as it makes no sense in relation to what you quoted from someones post of over 10years ago.

I dont think there is such a thing as an injector warning light, what notice do you think you should have been given? What is your question or request of the forum?

If it is the same as the Yeti and they do share the same platform, then the DRL's are extinguished when the handbrake is applied, I too thought that mine had failed.

Not the compressor, that is under the bonnet, it could be a low refrigerant charge that creates a noise from the expansion orifice in the aircon evaporator matrix behind the dashboard.

What do you mean by the running lights which you think you are switching off? Sidelights, dipped headlights or daylight running lights? If the latter then they can not be switched off and are on all the time the vehicle is in motion (explanation later) with the headlights switched off. Recently I was sure that mine had stopped working but they are extinguished when the handbrake is applied so each time I got out to check they were not working!

Yes they are not engaged but there is no significant slippage when driving straight and if the front and rear tyres are of equal diameters. And yes, if driven really hard so the 4wd is solicited then there is far less oil contamination which is the opposite of recieved wisdom.

I understand your point but think you have got it backwards, the gloating you perceived was that the heaters on EV's start working instantly whereas an ICE has to drive a few miles. Today was very cold but I had heat coming from the heater within one mile, quicker than usual but I had left the engine idling while I coupled the trailer. The later generation TDi's with the achilles heel sliding sleeve water pumps really are good for fast heating on cold starts when they are behaving as the should, in my MK1 Octavia I sometimes had to travel 8 miles before feeling any appreciable heat unless there was a hill that I could thrash it up.

I dont think that your belief that an ICE vehicle will not run the heater at tickover is correct, there is more than enough waste heat from combustion, it would however take a very very long time to reach operating temperature if started from cold and left idling in freezing tempeatures and may not get to open the thermostat but that is because the heat is being drawn by the heater. In the circumstances you describe (stuck on a road) the engine would already be at operating temperature. Aside from knowing that you are misguided through personal experience if you think about all the times people leave their vehicle idling to warm up or defrost the screens then you would realise your belief cannot be correct. This day alone there will be scores of vehicles stolen from peoples drives doing exactly that.

Longer doors on 2 door versions of 4 door vehicles open to a reduced angle when parked beside other vehicles making egress more difficult, the actual opening width is the same but its restrictive to get your feet out.

But there was a 4 door Chevette which shared the same back end so arguably they were both coupés or both saloons according to your viewpoint. The Marina Coupé had a different sloping back end, a very different style to the 4 door, what would it have needed to have to conform to your definition of coupé? Maybe a shorter wheelbase and either no rear seats or only small ones for children. TBH the meaning has been corrupted from the original carosse coupé which meant a cut down horse drawn carriage without the rear facing seats. I think nowadays its a styling description and for me the Ford Capri defines coupé, other manufacturers call them fastback. I cannot picture a Crossfire so will have to look. OK have seen it now, like an Audi T(osser) T(ransporter), I would define those as 2 door coupes, the Marina Coupé was a visual insult by comparison!

I have just seen another one posted today, once again a new contributor and their posting was but two words in bold type - component protection Could it be some kind of a bet/joke?

Do you mean disconnecting the output wire from the existing fuseholder and connecting it to the piggyback fuse?

I bought a 3 year old Marina Coupe at auction, it would have been around 1979, it was a very modern looking car for very little money - £280 which was my aim, turned out that it drank as much oil as petrol it was great for laying smoke bombs though once I had perfected the art! Sold it for £600 after having resprayed it, it was definitely not a memorable vehicle but was at a memorable time of my life though. I dont know how you can say it was not worthy of the moniker "Coupé" though, it was as much of a coupé as anything since, 2 doors a sloping back and no hatchback same as the MK1 Capri just nowhere near as well executed.

He conveniently avoided explaining how he was going to fit the new radiator with the bumper still in place, maybe he was going to cut the tangs off of that as well and leave it flapping around. If I have missed something please explain.

Its becoming more and more a frequent occurrence, perhaps that is how how people communicate on Fessbook groups.

As has been described it will sit at an indicated 90°c over a very wide range of temperatures. Was it a very cold day when yours was dropping? Did you have the heater in full and were driving relatively slowly? On the few cold days last week my temperature gauge never got to 90°, the thermostat had opened and the heater was delivering heat but driving slowly on B roads never generated an excess of heat, it would hit 90° going up a hill but then drop again on the flat, to be sure of what I suspected I turned the heater contro; to cold air and the gauge rapidly rose to 90°; too rapid in fact but that just reflects the fiddle factor in action. I tried it a few times with the same results each time, I resolved to blank the radiator and fit my winter wheels then it got warm again it was 15° here today and did not drop below 12° during the night, I dont think the winter wheels will ever get fitted (famous last words) last winter there were probably only 3 days when would have given me any benefit but as I drive according to the conditions it was not an actual benefit, just a safety reserve.

Hard to believe that they managed to export LHD examples of Allegros but I guess when the competition was Renault, Citroen, Peugeot etc anything would have sold.

There used to be a really tatty Allegro parked outside my hôtel back in the days when the Airbus employees would park on the pavements, probably 2007/8, it was just cheap transport to the owner who knew nothing of its reputation, I photocopied and enlarged a Viz comic Sid the Sexist cartoon where the storyline revolved around his Allegro and put it on his windscreen, he thought it was hilarious.