J.R.

I agree. The client list is the only asset in many business sales.

You asked for advice, not helpful advice, if that is the most serious concern in your life you should thank whatever deity you believe in.

Yes, let it go and concentrate on things you can influence like turning back the tide 😁

Oh yours is going to go up I'm sad to say

You could add a 1 in front of that figure and it would still be worth it to me to pay it and do the job to avoid the inevitable grief that any post sales contact with a main dealer guarantees. And whilst on the subject any guarantee offered by a dealer that you end up paying for is going to make you very angry and frustrated even if they pay for it themselves, which of course they wont because they make a commission on it anyway.

I read that Santa Claus is real! It sounds like you are using a Bluetooth OBDII module as you speak of your phone, is the space around the socket sufficient to insert the much bulkier Bluetooth casing or is it tight? I know you say that you have used it sucessfully on another MK3 but on the MK2 for instance a normal cabled lead would work fine but a bluetooth one was giving the same problems.

The air must be really clean in the cities now if they have to start taxing on the fantasy basis that the tyres of heavier EV's throw up more particulate matter from the road than lighter ones. They should tax the wind, after all that blows up road dust and that way politicians would have to pay the majority of the taxes!

Attend to it or learn how to bleed the clutch at the side of the road because it will get progressively worse. Warranty, was this one that you paid extra for or they claimed to have thrown in that is run by an insurance company? If so all they are is a vehicle to make the stealer even more money, to be able to demand £120 each time you report a fault and to avoid their responsibilities under the sale of goods act by saying "we are really sorry but the warranty company say no!". The problem being that you are now beyond the date where the garage would have any liability so the "warranty" is all you have

It would be cheaper to move the steering wheel and pedals 😁 I should not make fun because I will probably soon have a mirror clash incident with an oncoming car (I'm long overdue after 15 years!) and all I will be able to source will be LHD units. Bad luck on that one, I too would have taken the punt but it sounds like the same issue I had with the LHD mirror glass, I'm assuming the mirrors would be correctly aligned from the passenger seat.

Blown out of the water now that he realises that its the same insurer for both parties. It used to be called knock for knock, nowadays its known as both parties getting screwed!

Do people really need a bong to tell them that their engine is running? I thought I was hard of hearing but..................................... If they cannot hear the engine then they may not hear the bong, a slap in the face with a wet kipper might get their attention. A bong for leaving lights on, now that is sensible.

As a practical person with an understanding of things the physical change would be way simpler for me than mucking around with long coding and there is no way that reversion would be one of the programmed options. I never knew that DSG gearshift worked in the opposite way to what I consider normal, I engineered built and raced a bike engined Caterham including the minutae like the gear selection linkage, I never for even a millisecond considered doing it the opposite to what seemed obvious to me, had I not read this and one day bought a DSG car it would have bugged the hell out of me and my muscle memory after doing 24 hour races would not want to re-adapt let alone my brain. It seems completley counter-intuitive to me, after all in most conventional gearboxes you push the lever forward for 1st gear and pull back for top 4th gear or nowadays 6th, and before anyone questions that I consider most 5 speed boxes having the direct drive 4th gear as top gear and 5th being an overdrive.

I got the one out of the Yeti quite swiftly despite not being able to find any info on how to do it, I just did it methodically and when something did not want to come out I had to push and pull but not too hard to feel where the resistance was and then find the extra fastener or clip holding up the proceedings. That part of it took a very long time but if the fixings info were to have been available it would not have been an issue, the biggest stumbling block was I could not for the life of me see how the stalk switch assembly removed from the steering column, I pushed, I pulled, I looked closely from every angle, it was a couple of all but invisible hidden clips, these things are designed to assemble together by a blind person and not to be disassembled by a semi-blind one! I got some very impressive photos when it was removed, they gave most people the heebie-jeebies! Sadly they were lost with all the others when the memory card became corrupted.

🤣🤣🤣

if you had to open a door and/or the bonnet to disconnect the battery then 100% yes. Disconnecting and reconnecting a battery with a reasonable state of charge will not cause problems other than dashboard lights which will go out after driving 25m and the window motors having to relearn their power and position settings. 1.5v is pretty flat, did you manage to recover the battery and if so how, and how is it performing?

I know what rust looks like regardless of the quality of your photographs but thank-you nonetheless for your disdain regarding my eyesight. There is a 3D element that I can see, there are voids in the back of the pad that align exactly with the most corroded areas.

@xman Do you live by the sea and is the car parked outside? Those backing plates are as rotten as a carrot and you can track the water ingress from the inner and outer curves.

I have in the past seen indents or holes in the backing plate and the friction material has had locating pegs sticking into them, the idea was that they would take the shear force if the bond was to fail but pad material is very brittle, you could not rely on it holding up under an emergency stop. I know the reason this was dropped, water ingress through the holes was creeping into the bond by capillary action creating rust which seperated the pad from the backing, just like what is visible in the OP's photograph.

If Boeing ignored you then I dont hold out much hope for you with Bosch 😁 You might just pique their interest though if you include the words possible counterfeit and Eurocarparts, I recommend that you send them a photo of the security hologram if you still have the box, otherwise they are not unlikely to share your outrage and concern.

I had not appreciated you had written that proviso. That is not a sudden deflation, the system does detect slow punctures.

It absolutely does, mine has been doing so for the last 3 years, after maybe 5 or 6 weeks I get the first warning which I reset with the button, I then visually kick test all the tyres and if I cannot detect any difference on the one with the bead leak I know I am OK till the next TPMS warning at which point I pump it up again. The first warning is after a loss of maybe 5 or 6 psi, as I run mine at the higher load pressures it does not concern me, I always check and inflate if necessary before a long loaded journey.

Pads have never been rivetted nor even brake shoes for decades now. Age and corrosion are usually the enemy, I have had maybe 4 instances of it, two on brand new parts, the others through age and being worn right down to the last of the friction material. I have a scraping noise from a rear wheel at present which might be a pad on the limit. I will check it before next driving which could be a few days away.

You could have stopped the vehicle on the footbrake one pump after the initial pedal to the floor probably would have sufficed, the shiny ground bare metal on the pad backplate shows that you actually did do that or drove the car afterwards using the footbrake and no pad material. ECP will not give a flying four X, hopefully Bosch will be concerned with fake parts carrying their logo.

They do not, are you absolutely sure that the error message said clutch temperature high? No mention of clutch in those messages, what makes you think it was? Did you look at the water temperature guage? What was it reading? Pretty useless warning if it does not specify what temperature was too high, the obvious one would be the engine coolant but I can think of a dozen other temperature sensors and none of them are the clutch. These later vehicles are just a pi55 take

I'm too knackered and its too late for me to comprehend all that. Was the answer to question 1 that you paid £71 per week over 3 years to lease the Alhambra in addition to the down payment?