J.R.

Unlikely that the valve stem seals will have been damaged, if they were it should have been picked up, they could be claiming that as it would invite less critical questioning than the (to me) more likely option of piston/bore damage. I would take it somewhere else for a compression test and second opinion before going any further down the road with the current garage, I hope I am wrong and at least this way their diagnosis will be validated and you can have confidence in them. That sounds plausible, its simply that I don't take as gospel anything a garage says without doing some analysis, the price quoted sounds correct if the oil consumption is from the valve stem seals. A compression test will rule out piston/bore damage and the other garage will know how to test for stem seal oil consumption. I wonder if they forgot to fit them? 💡

I paid €80 total road tax for my first 15 years in France, the carte grise cost for the MK1 Octavia. The MK2 cost me about the same €80 because it was over 10 years old so half price but as I sold it sooner than planned because of wanting the Yeti as a project that was only spread over 2 or 3 years so expensive by my standards. The Yeti came with quite a significant malus payment to make on first registration in France, that it was 3 years old did not matter, it's on first registration, because they dragged their heels with my application (the start of the pandemic) the Yeti had its 4th anniversary so the carte grise, taxes and malus payment all dropped by 1/4, I ended up paying something like €200, its coming up to 4 years now and I intend keeping it for decades so the effective annual cost will be very little. My insurance has just gone up to €200 pa which is what happens if you dont keep on top of them and change companies if necessary, I used to pay €110 pa, each change of vehicle they stuff it up even when its a lower insurance group. So you can see in my country there is a big incentive to keep a vehicle for a very long time. The malus payments on big, or expensive or polluting vehicles can be eye watering, probably €15k if you imported one of now uninsurable Range Rovers, up to €30K for other "look at me and how much money I have" vehicles, owners love to boast about how much the malus payment was, they wear it like a badge of pride.

"Measure it? No. Record how much torque the ECU believes (based on its internal calculation) the engine to be making? Yes."

You are a genius sir! Now I know exactly what I have and what to do, I need to check whether the anti-freeze I bought was G12 or G13 and get my ar5e in gear to replace the low grade off the shelf stuff thats been in a couple of years when I discovered that I had refilled it with plain water 18 months before temporarily and forgotten all about it It had gone through 2 winters without any anti-freeze or corrosion protection yet what drained out was clear enough to drink so I am not too concerned about it not having Silkat to date.

The OEM connector and its seemingly lack of strain relief will be 100 times better than crimped spade connectors and a million times more resistant to moisture ingress, if you must use them then do it well back from the switch on a fixed supported part of the cable (which there probably isn't) and enclose them with self amalgamating tape. Even butt crimps (please do not Google the term 🤣) would be better then male and female spade terminals but still require the same protections.

Every service I have forgotten how to reset the counter so resort to Youtube 😁

How does the ECU know the torque being developed by the engine? I appreciate that it can be calculated knowing the vehicle mass, the initial and final velocities of the run, the time and/or distance covered but that would be an at the wheels torque and not take into account wind resistance, elevation etc. It's implausible to me that the ECU would know what the instantaneous engine torque would be, yes the dyno figures for various throttle openings for the standard engine would be known and could be programmed in but thats very rough and ready and makes no allowance for atmospheric pressure, ambient temperature, fuel grade, engine condition and most important of all when an engine has been remapped like mine. Unless I am enlightened about the ECU being able to measure engine torque in real time, for my vehicle I would stick with my old school method of the mean of opposite runs on a near level measured half mile either from standing start or rolling start then number crunching the results using the vehicle mass.

How do you do it from within VCDS please?

Even easier perhaps is to buy an assortment of wired male and female connector pins and a set of depinning tools and then you will also be set up for any future requirements. If only one wire is broken why replace the plug and both terminals? OK I can answer my own question, if one wire is broken the other may be on its way.

Nothing, does the vehicle handbook really say that? It has been on all my Skodas to date, usually not mentioned in the handbook but there is always a way, its possible later vehicles are different.

The same air that you breathe when outside of the vehicle. Coldest setting is ambient air temperature. The above is on the basis that you do not have aircon, I do not have Climatronic but the basic Climatic system and also aircon, my heater controls are like yours but I have an additional AC on/off button which I don't see in your photograph.

To what age and also to what mileage regarding the sale of goods act for a soon to be 2 year old vehicle. I don't think the OP needs to be concerned that the clutch hydraulics will not be covered under warranty be it the manufacturers or the selling dealers but he needs to be prepared for the inevitable "clutch 75% worn" also I sincerely hope that he didn't pay for or accept the vehicle with an insurance type warranty, in that case all bets are off and he likely will need to know the precise details of the manufacturers warranty and any liability under the sale of goods act hence my questions.

Your clutch is not stuck, engaged is the default position, a working hydraulic system including slave cylinder will disengage it in response to pedal movement. I do not understand your concern between wear and tear and slave cylinder failure, perhaps you can elucidate, wear of the clutch friction plate is deemed wear and tear in the same way that brake pads would, failure of the hydraulic cylinder is not wear and tear. You have not stated whether your car is petrol or diesel powered or the gearbox type, I guarantee you if it is the internal concentric slave cylinder which requires gearbox removal to replace that whoever does the repair will tell you your clutch is 75% worn (remember that figure and smile when they say so!) and invite you to pay for a new one, a DMF as well if diesel.

Is that the container that fits in the dual wall expansion tank? I cant see any Mit Silkat markings on my tank, they may have worn off, it definitely does not have a teabag, maybe it has one of them? I will have a look now I know perhaps what to look for.

Good plan, if you are lucky when you disc cut through you might be able to see the eccentricity and judge the angular alignment for the new bolts.

The absolute sweetspot for simplicity and reliability, if they resisted the temptation in the first decade they would never want to sell it and it was such a well designed and put together vehicle that it will remain far more reliable than anything newer. I would buy an original unmolested and cherished VAG vehicle from the 90's in a heartbeat if it suited my usage, shame they never made the Yeti back then, my current usage as a working vehicle would be unfair on say a cherished Passat Estate, I keep hankering over a normally aspirated diesel Toyoto BJ40 Jeep!

They are eccentric bolts, if there is a datum marking on them, probably for the zero offset position then noting the angular position of them and fitting the new ones in the same place is a very sensible idea. Where the thread starts is of no consequence.

= Toast.

Yourself and your judgement whether it be of mechanical things or human behaviour, in both cases skills well worth developing, maintaining and honing.

90% of what specific energy? How do you get 90% back of the energy used to raise the mass when 25% of it was lost in doing so and another 25ù of the remaining 75% will again be lost? I am not trying to score points, I genuinely would like to know the approx figures, justified ones and not marketing claims, I used to think that coasting downhill was (tyre, transmission, air resistance losses notwithstanding) was cancelling out the extra fuel used on a hilly return journey compared to a flat one but someone on here rightfully pointed out the thermal efficiency of my IC engine and that most of the energy went to heat and not locomotion. I understand that electrical to locomotive (or is it motive?) power transmission is much more efficient, I would like to know what the real savings through regenerative braking etc really are.

It amazes me that people swallow and repeat as fact anything that is stated to them by a main dealer service receptionist or printed on the job sheet especially any measurements of brake pad thickness which wont have been made and are simply a keypress for a standard upselling phrase. Would you allow them to invest your retuirement fund or savings? Of course they will be able to tell you whatever phrase comes into their head, saying "I don't know" is not in their vocabulary, being able to BS in an instant is a required skill. Of course having no idea of what the original thickness is or maybe even what a break pad looks like, not being able to convert a percentage of a dimension to a resultant dimension the results of the question will likely be very amusing so well worth asking!

It must be true, I read it on a forum! 😁

Peace be with you brother, have as many free kicks as you want as my ignored content member list has now doubled.

Sorry, not playing. I deliberately did not precede the word legislation with EU. @ivcars003 I wish you luck, hope you find a solution and that some of the responses may have been helpful to you, regrettably I will not contribute further.

I agree, 80% can even mean unworn, my pal had changed his brake pads the night before a main dealer service (to keep up the warranty), you can guess the rest. The manager even foolishly said "ah but how many miles have you done since changing them?" to which the response was 2 miles, the 2 miles I walked home after dropping the car off to you!