MATT0693

You'd need to read through the build sheet, the PR codes differ depending on what has been fitted at the factory. I can get the PR sheet for you, if you send me your reg via a message I'll send it over.

It sounds to me like the garage are just firing up the parts-cannon until the issue goes away, they should be doing a proper diagnosis, especially for a reoccurring fault. The ash level is the important one to look at, this isn't combustible therefore isn't removed in the regen process. If the DPF ash levels are high it will have less capacity and will result in the lights coming on. If you have high ash levels, you could look at having it chemical cleaned and see what results you get. I'm sure you already know this, but DPF equipped cars aren't the best for short trips/town driving as the soot loading is often heavier and they don't get the chance to complete regeneration cycles or do passive regens.

Just had a quick look on the system without using a VIN, information is below. I'm happy to check the information and give you the numbers if you want to send me your registration number by message..

Hello and Welcome.

I've seen my DPF regenerate in as little as 80miles, that is with loads of short trips not allowing the car to reach full operating temp. I did a return trip to London on Saturday and it did 343miles between regens.. with mixed driving it is usually around 200miles between each. If your DPF health is already poor due to yours or the previous owners driving habits, the DPF will be less efficient and have to regen more often. I have the VAGDPF app, so I can monitor/check the DPF state, duration, distance etc - worth it for a couple of quid on the app store. If your figures all look ok then it could be an issue with a sensor, or just that your driving patterns don't suit the car.

This is very much going to depend on who you choose to carry out the work, and the quality of parts selected. Skoda would be around the £500 mark.

The Mk3 VRS TDi is a charge cooler rather than intercooler. There isn't much on that side of the engine that has oil that could leak into the arch, not unless it is being forced up by the crank pulley or cooling fan blowing it back through. Is it definitely engine oil? Is your oil level dropping?

Perfect, mine isn't the Canton system so this should do the job! Thank you.

Hi All, I am looking to install an underseat subwoofer to my 66 Plate Octavia. I've spoken to Vibe Audio who have said they can supply this lead which makes the whole process plug and play, but it only fits 'Non-Pre Amplified Vehicles Only'. I believe my system is the MIB2 (Small screen) and it sounds awful, so presume I'll be ok with this.

I upgraded the bulbs in my octavia recently, here is a photo. Link LED Bulb

It should be VW507. If the car is running that oil, I would be getting it changed as soon as possible to avoid any damage to the engine/dpf.

I've got a 5kw version on order, based on this video and some others I've watched, it should do the job. I'll be running mine on Kerosene (£1.10p/l), so based on his consumption of 350ml/ph it'll cost 39p an hour to run flat out, a saving of around £1.36 against the equivalent electric heater. Hopefully it lasts long enough to pay for itself!

Hi All, Looking for some advice on workshop heating. I have a detached single garage at home that is uninsulated (job for next year), I spend quite a bit of time in there on weekends so want to keep it at a comfortable temperature. I've spoken to a local company who have recommended I would need around 5kw / 17,000 BTU to heat the space. They have suggested that a 5kw electric heater would be best at a cost of £130 and cost £1.70ph to run. In addition to this I would need some electrical work doing as the current electrics are limited to 3200w. Estimating the initial outlay at around £300. I've found a few people on YouTube have used the 12v Chinese Diesel heaters for the same purpose with great success. The units are available for around £100, and claim to use around 0.5L ph on full - approx 95p/h on current prices - all they need is a 12v supply and an exhaust path (I can run it out the brick wall). Any got any other ideas, other than very thick clothes and man up?

As above, older ones require a hub and the newer ones are Bluetooth, so just need the app. If you have any smart home devices such as Alexa/Google Assistant, they integrate really well for voice control. Nearly every bulb in my house (and outside) is Hue, never had an issue with them.

Just beat me to it!