Gmac983

You would think that the required service schedule should be followed to the letter. Unfortunately many many main stealers don’t do it or do it properly as Root’ has already said. Particularly swapping/keeping low mileage users on variable services plans so that you pre-pay maybe for an oil change, no filters and a spit n polish in 3 years. Then the next owner thinks they are getting full main dealer service history when in reality very little has been done.

That’s how they get folk to pony up for the ‘higher-spec’ model at minimal cost to manufacture. It’s the way it’s been for decades. For example then, something like a mk1 fiesta base model would likely have been vinyl seats, a heater, 1 door mirror, 5 seats and not much else, next model up might get 2 door mirrors and a radio, moving on up to top spec you might get a cassette player cloth seats and a maybe even a rear wash wipe with heated element! Not much cost difference between them to mass produce but probably quite a difference in the price list.

Shuddering brakes usually mean warped discs. Are you heavy on your brakes, could be warped with overheating as your previous ones had done. Were the discs definitely changed? Could they have perhaps been skimmed and refitted “as-new” by a potential dodgy garage? Or is the brake pedal kicking back at you? Perhaps an ABS issue of some sort?

Would doubt if many used car prices will come down much. Certainly for anything even vaguely desirable or sought after anyway. Along with gov’s on going ev push. Also massive delivery times on new stuff for the foreseeable until the big players get all there outsourced electronics pulled back in house, which will likely take years to ramp up. Would say used buyers may have to adjust what they perceive as a good deal.

^^^^ Also as happens with every sports person, their career reaches a point where they begin to lose their competitive edge and abilities become blunt. Or plain and simply they no longer want to do it. Quite rightly Vettel has decided to call it a day.

That entirely doesn’t surprise me. Skoda used to be really good at this but now seem in a race to get to the bottom.

Whilst I can’t comment on the reliability of the DSG personally as I have only covered 17k with mine in 3 years and in that time (touch wood) it’s been faultless. It’s a Kodiaq 2.0tsi 190, what I can say is, it was the first auto I have owned and hand on heart can say I will likely never go back to a manual again. It’s very smooth and effortless and 99% of the time does exactly what I want it to do. You quickly get used to where to position the accelerator pedal in order to get the degree of of kick down you want with the level of acceleration you need. I have yet to come across any sort of situation where it feels out of control. Normal mode does best for me but it’s simple to flick between drive modes to suit what you are doing. About the only time I manually shift the gears is when descending a steep hill, particularly if towing and a low gear requires to be held in order to hold back the car. But as others have said, take an extensive test drive before you buy. Don’t be fobbed of with a-once-around-the-block with the fuel light on as some dealers do. Good luck.

Crikey! Would of expected it to do better than that. How hard are you driving it? Which version is it? (PD/CR?). Is it remapped? Mileage?

Just walk away. Most dealers completely poop there pants if you genuinely threaten to walk out on the deal 11th hour. I have done it more than once on vehicles that have had long delivery lead times and the dealer has tried to shaft me on the trade in price thinking that because I paid £500 deposit they can offer thousands under true value. Same applies here, go in swinging and take no prisoners! Plenty more cars out there to shop around for if your not fussy. What deposit have you paid?

Just had a response from Arnies Autocare people. They say as long as a VAT registered garage using genuine parts for service/repairs is used then the Autocare plan will stand. Bloody annoying how they have chosen to word the small print though.

@KenONeill Thanks for that, that’s interesting to know.

Back in 2019 when I purchased my Kodiaq I took out the 4th year warranty. Now because I was getting perilously close to £40k with options for the additional road tax (i didn’t want to break through that by 50 quid or something silly like that and have to pay the additional road tax for breaking through the £40k barrier). I took out perhaps now rather foolishly, rather than Skodas additional warranty, Arnold Clark’s comparable Autocare product instead. Now, during the pandemic AC chose to permanently close their branch of Skoda Inverness. Which is already a 2 hour drive away for me and in place of that demand that I travel to Glasgow or Edinburgh (basically 6 hours away) for genuine Skoda service, they specifically said that none of the other myriad of AC garages in Inverness area would do. Bearing in mind this was during some of the more stringent periods of lockdown. This was obviously nonsense so I had the car serviced with Bannermans of Inverness who are a very competent Seat dealer and have/will be doing all of the servicing on my car. Getting to the point in AC’s Autocare fine print there is a section about all service and repairs must be carried out by an Autocare approved agent. Has anyone any experience of this or is it all BS on Arnies part?

You won’t go too far wrong with Vredestein or Hankook in the mid-range. I have used summer and winter versions of the Hankook and summer and all seasons with the Vredi’s.

The corrosion problem is an issue effectively with the galvi’ coating bubbling away from the base steel and causing the paint to flake/bubble of and in extreme cases rust to begin. It was most prominent on the lower portions of the doors, bonnets and leading edge of the roof panel. i.e anywhere vulnerable to stone impacts, not necessarily full stone chips but just enough to exaserbate the problem and therefore easily fobbed off by crap dealers and Skoda directly as fare wear and tear. Many Yetis have never been repaired, mine included (long since traded-in). Can be easily spotted as small blisters in the paint work. Also Skoda have still not entirely gotten on top of the problem, as my 2019 (2020MY) Kodiaq has a couple of very small blisters on the doors similar to my old Yeti but only a couple of spots not “machined-gunned” with them like my Yeti was. Don’t get me wrong they are generally decent vehicles but like many other brands they have their problems. Mine also had a turbo failure at 9 months and sub 7k miles, was a tdi 140 CR (not a patch performance wise on the older PD engines IMO). Food for thought for you. One last thing in regards to boot space, the 4x4 if it has the spare wheel option has a pretty cramped boot space, you have to think vertically to make the most of it. All the best.

Parking pawl or associated parts are obviously damaged or broken. Unfortunately this only happens if abused/poor technique, either by yourself or the previous owner. Was the vehicle purchased from a dealer? If you only bought it a week ago take it straight back for repair, should be some sort of warranty (3 months) even if a used purchase. If it was a private purchase then unfortunately you are going to have a bit of a repair bill coming your way. When parking on level ground it doesn’t matter a hoot if you select park first then handbrake or vise-versa. However on steep ground it makes a huge difference to do it in the correct order. Or if your impatient and slam the car into park before you have 100% come to a halt will have the same wear and tear result.

I would consider a mid range brand of all-season tyre. Whilst the Michelins are undoubtedly a good tyre, they are pricey. If you can have a look at Vredestein quatracs, they are a great tyre and will be cheaper than Michelin.

Hi, does anyone with an 80X tow with it? And can you quote the gross/max vehicle weight GVW and gross/max train weight GTW figures as these are the legal numbers for towing with the vehicle? These figures will be located on a label on the drivers side B pillar. Basically trying to track down whether 1200kgs or 1400kgs is the legal max towing in the UK for the Enyaq. I also started a separate thread for this “Enyaq towing”. Cheers.

So to sum up then… the tyres have done 12k miles and are showing completely normal signs of wear. End of thread.

Ok… so is the arrowed area low or high? If it’s low your running over inflated and if high you Are running under inflated.

As has already been said and is obvious in the footage . The car had already overturned well before the gravel trap. In much more commonly encountered “offs” where any racing car is still on its wheels tarmac run-offs are by far and away the safer option in most instances. Gravel traps cause cars to dig in and overturn. Just have a look at any crash footage from the ‘Chase’ corner at Mount Panorama circuit Bathurst and see the monster crashes that cars digging in and overturning due to the high speed entry to gravel trap. Yes gravel traps do have their place but not on high speed corners. The exit area of turn one at Silverstone has been tarred for many years. Perhaps now the entry gravel trap will be tarred over too. In this case Zhou likely wouldn’t have bounce over, he merely would have just slid into the tyre barrier and stopped.

So when you say an unusual wear pattern do you refer to the very slight raised band in the middle of your tyres?

Many of the newer and/or heavily revised circuits have largely removed gravel traps and replaced with tarmac run of areas as it greatly reduces the risk of roll over (obviously in Zhou’s incident he was already upside down before he reached the gravel trap) also it would stop that hopping/skipping effect (and further tumbling) that caused Zhou to bounce over the tyre wall. Obviously every conceivable crash can’t be planned for. But removal of gravel traps is well proven to improve safety in most incidents.

Is it just the one front tyre displaying the uneven wear or both front tyres? It looks like a front left side in your pics. Regarding cornering forces, it doesn’t need to be high corner speeds to wear a tyre shoulder. Do you regularly negotiate the same mini roundabout? A sharp swing around can easily cause the sort of wear your having. Or perhaps do you turn right into your drive the same way every time? Also wide(ish) low profile tyres are juggle with pressure v load v wear. But as others have said keep rotating the tyres front to back to get the most out of them.

You’ve not got that quite right there mate. I believe you are getting muddled with the post 2012(ish) changes that where made. ‘97 > ‘12 regs in as simplified terms as possible went as follows: you could tow any weight you liked (braked) as long as you were not exceeding the vehicles towing capacity and critically max-train was no more than 3500kg. Also plated weights of the trailer did not come into it until after 2012. Meaning that the plated weight of the trailer had to be within your vehicles towing capacity and within that GTW of 3500kg. Lots of folks had trailers down plated to meet this criteria who couldn’t or wouldn’t pass the B+E. I passed the B+E a few years ago which annoyingly has now been made irrelevant by the government changing the regs back to a free-for-all.

Have the DSG you’ll never look back and you’ll wonder why you didn’t go auto before now. Best of luck what ever you choose.