Okedokey

Every link in my posts works.

I had the exact same issue. Notice the brown corrosion on the earth pin? Thats you issue. I fixed it like this:

Correct, however Elsawin specifies 10 min.

Elsawin and the manual says to check it at operating temp. Wait 10 min after shutdown at operating temp and then check as per manual.

Here's some extra ones COOLANT_Drain and Repalce.pdf Skoda Workshop Manuals _ Octavia Mk2 _ Brake systems _ Technical Data _ Brakes _ Brake variants and their assignment.pdf BRAKE TORQUE.pdf SPARK PLUGS_Torque.pdf TORQUE_Charge Air.pdf THROTTLE VALVE_Remove and Install.pdf BRAKE PADS (REAR).pdf Poly V Belt Routing.pdf Poly V Belt Remove and Install.pdf Service Table2.pdf SPARK PLUGS_Change.pdf Mechatronics Oil Replensih.pdf Clean Throttle Valve.pdf INTAKE MANIFOLD_Remove and Install.pdf

Skoda Octavia II – Maintenance.pdf Skoda Workshop Manuals _ Octavia Mk2 _ Brake systems _ Technical Data _ Brakes _ Brake variants and their assignment.pdf

Its exactly 1.7. As per ElsaWin. If you put in 1L, you probably damaged the unit.

Open it up, itll be rusty and need a clean. Mine worked fine after this.

Ok so I pulled it apart, no PCB anywhere. Turned out to be rusted parts seized. Cleaned them up, lubricated and now its working fine. No need for parts. Simple job. Remove wiper, 10 mm nut, remove trim (clips and 1 Philips head screw for handle, remove 3 x 14 mm nuts, wiring connector and fluid hose. Pump is free, then remove torx screws to remove plastic cover, clean and reassemble.

Just did the same. No movement whatsoever. Opened it up and there it was rusted tight. Cleaned it up with alcohol, deoxit and WD40. I think the order of failure is, blocked jets result in back pressure of water into the housing causing rust, causing it to mechanically seize. The motor was fine, just the moving parts that refused to move. At least that was on mine. Different unit, but very similar and the same looking issue.

Totally understand. Its about an hour to two hour job, so don't pay too much for labour. The pump is cheap too, probably no more than 50 quid.

vacuum leak

inspect the oil when you change it for sludge. if it is present, change the oil and filter every 1K miles for a couple of times. If its clean, dont stress and continue every 5K changes

dont stress unless you have reason to. the sump is easy, but if youre not getting issues, just do normal maintenance.

drop the sump pan and inspect how bad the build up is. unless youve kept up with oil changes you can make things worse with a flush.

Read the TSBs, they go into further details regarding blocked valves etc

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18447/P2015/008213

my guess is carbon build up

could be anything from an exhaust leak to a waste gate. can you be more specific or record the noise?

Can i just check youve reviewed the intank pump and lpfp controller?

If you can DIY, the water pump is super easy. Probably the easiest of all VAG engines. I had the same sound when my water pump was going out, it then failed. Luckily I had trained my wife to stop the car if anything goes wrong and it didn't over heat. Super easy fix. I can post the ElsaWin instructions if you want.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/oqcasFTB2a4

My rear window wiper is inoperative too, and no codes on VCDS. I read here that it's likely a case of dry solder (non leaded solder) joints on the PCB controller powering the motor, which is an easy fix. If anyone cares, Ill update you all and see if that's the case for mine too as that is much cheaper than a new motor.

What were the codes he deleted? Did you record them?

in tank pump.