DSL

I was just pointing out the obvious in jest, but I do find occasionally I’m on the wrong side in a kind of “oops, something’s wrong here” moment. It’s never on the road but usually a supermarket car park. For me the risk point is when I feel comfortable driving on t’other side and make the mistake of thinking I don’t need to keep saying “stick to the ditch side”. Saying that, in 2 weeks time I’ll be in a hire car on t’other side in Canada but it’ll be the first time on the right with a steering wheel on the wrong side!

And re title, you normally drive on the right in France. Though it does seem optional some of the time.👍

Absolutely. 👍

Thanks for everybody’s help. 👍 Both cars now tucked up in the garage with Mrs DSL’s car’s battery fully charged then disconnected, Karoq is on the CTEK. I used the ring connecters that came with the CTEK to put a socket in the engine bay, positive directly on to the +ve term and the -ve connected to the earth “tongue”, not to the -ve terminal. Removing & reattaching the nut on the -ve thingie was OK but removing the nut from the +ve terminal’s bolt was a bit of a b****r and resulted in a bit of stripped thread. Luckily I managed to get it all back together and all is secure again. I should have just put the ring on and slapped another nut on the top but didn’t think of that until tried to get the original nut back on. 😡 Only a couple of sleeps until two months Interrailing round parts of Europe starts. Back to travelling, just hoping Covid doesn’t bung a monkey wrench in our plans.

A mere 6ft here, no problems on long trips with the longest drive being 610 miles in one day. 👍 The seat swab is a bit shorter than I was used to in previous cars but not an issue as I tend to be on CC as much as possible.

Will do, thanks for the heads up. I’m used to just connecting the charger up and flipping the power on switch, will make sure it’s in the right mode. 👍

I got the charge bit right, that’s not too bad considering how long ago we bought it and haven’t thought of the proper name. Will use that on SWMBO’s Jazz as it doesn’t seem to worry a bit about what’s connected to it. 👍

MXS is now on its way here via Amazon, should be here tomorrow so enough time to get it set up before we head off. Thanks all, should save me a lot of hassle when we get back. Now got to explain to Skippy that we’re doing a trip by train and he’s staying in the garage. 🤨

Was looking at CTEKs on Amazon this morning, might well pull the trigger on one. 👍 Strange.y enough my trickle charger is an old Porsche Chargomatic that I bought for a Boxter I owned a long, long time ago. It seemed to get a flat battery after a long weekend.

Would disconnecting the battery cause a problem? Again, leaving the bonnet cracked so when we get back I’d fully charge it and then power the car back up. I’m thinking along the lines of if the car is disconnected for 5 minutes or 5 months it’s not going to know the difference. Unfortunately the trickle charger I have is almost 35 years old so deffo doesn’t qualify as modern!

Just been reading below thread as planning to leave my Karoq locked up in our garage for a few months while we go off and see various parts of the world. Not wishing to have the same issues when we get back, I was thinking of leaving the car locked, alarm off (once I can figure that out) and with the bonnet unlatched. Then I can get a battery charger onto the battery as soon as we get back without having to open the doors. Also the passenger-side door will be against a wall so wouldn’t be able to get the door open to pop the bonnet anyway. Would leaving the bonnet unlatched for a prolonged time cause any issues? Was wondering if it would keep the car awake and kill the battery in no time. I was thinking of leaving it on a trickle charger but I just got “that” look from SWMBO and that idea got binned. Thoughts?

Another day, another snowy Skippy pic. 👍

How can I find out which gearbox I have? 2019 2.0TDi 4x4 if anyone has that information available off the top of their head. 👍

OK you don’t need a car but their car sitting outside your house can have an amazing affect on the dealer’s ability to focus on getting your car fixed and their car back to them. The fact that you won’t be using it is neither here nor there. Plus might be worth putting them on notice that if they don’t fix it this time then you’ll be pressing the honking great “reject” button.

Slightly left field idea, well for this time in the morning, but you could just neutralise the rattle by squirting some glue in these, give it a gentle shake to get the coin to slide around and meet the glue, and then it should stick to the “floor” somewhere. Look on the positive side, it will up the value of the car! 👍

Take the block out, turn upside down & shake?

And how do I check what’s on “the system”? I’ve looked on skoda-connect.com and all it has for my car is a health check in March 21 (the car was no-where near a Skoda dealer, we were in lockdown and car hardly went anywhere), no note of healthcheck done a couple of months ago (fitted reversing camera) nor today’s service work. Anyone got a link to the corrosion/warranty t&cs, where it says the length of said warranty? All I can find is this where it has a 3yr paint warranty and unspecified perforation warranty.

PPS This is the only reference I have to bodywork inspection.

Agreed, will be very useful once I get in the way of changing it. Now got 2 things to do after starting, kill Stop/Start then switch CC to SL where I won’t be on roads suitable for said CC. Tried it (SL) on the A3 passing Guildford, the speed averaging downhill stretch. Steep enough to speed up on CC, held it bang on 50mph. Happy days. 👍

PS Thanks Xman. 👍

No sign of bodywork check, will look into that and give them a shout. 👍 And back to this variable servicing malarkie! Service indicator before it went in, all ticketyboo. When I got it back it was set to annual servicing as mentioned above. After going back in and saying “Ahem, this isn’t right”, it went in again and came out with this: The service chap explained it along the lines of “it’s too long to leave the car for 2 years [as it had been] so it needs another “inspection” where they don’t actually change anything”, I was starting to loose the will to live! On my half hour drive back MrsDSL did some digging/googling and couldn’t find anything on the “extra” inspection, even on Looker’s own site. There “oil and inspection”, nobody does just inspection according to her exhaustive research/googling! Is this part of the proper Skoda variable servicing or the dealer’s attempt to get me in annually, whether I want to or not? The answers to the above service question is now officially academic for the dealer that did the work as MrsDSL has declared “It ain’t going back there!”. Hell hath no fury like SWMBO scorned! 🤣

Well, they were up for 5*s but I checked the service indicator to see when next due and it’s been switched to annual servicing from variable.. She’s gone back in to get that fixed. The cynic in me thinks “hmmmm, very naughty” as I’d have thought someone would have had to consciously make that change. Glad I checked!!

Quick question time. My brake pads are 12mm front and 8mm rear, what do they start with? Is this higher wear at the rear normal? The car’s done just under 11k miles since new. TIA

Sitting in the dealer, waiting on the not-so-old girl getting her oil change. Fended off the offers of extra chances to spend cash. Also no worry re washing the car, they don’t do that, there’s a pandemic on don’t ya know!! 😆

Wohoooooo, got it working, thanks all!! Bit fiddly with it reverting back to CC when switched off (I think) but nothing I can’t cope with.👍