DSL

Do you have the fancy removable seats? If so take out the offending seat then, from the MOT regs, whatever condition the seatbelts are in they do not count as seatbelts. Then you can get it sorted at your leisure. I ran my LR D3 like that for years as I had removed seats and the seatbelts disconnected and stuffed in cubby boxes. Mind you, as you have an SE like me, that’s not an option.

I use the same size (225/55 R17s) for both summer and winter tyres, never felt handling was compromised in any way. 👍

You got time to kill? My folks did the same, added about the same amount to a full engine. Their penance? To get that level down drop by drop using the dipstick. It took a while but they did it and now know the difference between “checking” and topping up”, but still blaming me. 😱

Many thanks to both of you, will give them a shout. 👍

Looking for a good independent Skoda/VW/etc garage in Surrey, any recommendations out there? At first looking at brake stuff but later oil changes and servicing. Based in Cobham but no problem going out as far as Guildford or in a bit towards London. TIA. 👍

Really got into Jazzez coz they are totally ideal dog-mobiles. Sadly no more dogs but they are ideal runarounds for us, cost virtually nothing to run a reliable as the day is long. 👍 Re Hondas pulling out of the UK, wouldn’t be surprised with the pre-2030 “ramping up” penalties (don’t get me started!) any business would be off their trolly staying.

Wot, no pic?? 😁 And what is this sun you speak of? 🤔

Not 19” rubber bands but standard SE 255/55 17s (from memory). I have a set of winter wheels in the garage, I’ll bung them on and see if the vibration is the same. And the way this summer is going, might just leave them on! And thanks for the parts links, will have a look at those and see if the local garage I use for my other car will fit parts I buy myself. 👍

OK, the slight wobble under braking has turned into quite a bad vibration and I have to get it sorted, well so I’ve been told! Assuming I “just” need front discs, and assuming pads as well, where’s the best place to go? I’ve had a search for Skoda fixed price d&p replacement but have drawn a blank. I know if the car goes anywhere near a main dealer and I mention brakes it will result in major wealth redistribution from me to them! The car has just ticked over 20k miles and 3 1/2 years old. Most, like 95%, of that mileage is up and down the motorway between SE England and the Highlands so not heavy on brakes. I’ll take the wheels off next week and have a look but not sure I can tell if a disc is warped. Thoughts oh wise ones out there?

As an owner of 2 older Jazzez (in addition to our Karoq), you can’t go far wrong with one of those. 👍

Re brakes, find a nice clear piece of road where you can get up to, say, 60mph and plant your foot on the brake peddle as if Bambi had run out in front of you. Two or three of those should easily clear a fair bit of the rust off the disks. I’ve got a bit of wobble on mine when braking which is prob warped discs but will wait until they need changed in thickness, which at my present 5k miles/yr might be a while.

There is a pen clip? 😲 Every day’s a school day.

Hmmmm, I’ve no experience of petrol particulate filters. Plus ISTR the fuel spec is for gow the engine is tuned, it might not be as smooth with a lower grade. I’m assuming you’re in somewhere like Aus or Canada that has 91 RON. If it was me I’d still try the dilute down approach, I wouldn’t have thought one load of lower grade fuel would be catastrophic, the advice could point to long term woes if you kept putting in the cheap juice. Mind you, siphoning it out would give you several years of lawnmower petrol! But someone will hopefully be along that actually knows about such things. 👍

Do you have to take it out? Couldn’t you just run it down, say 1/4 tank at a time and gradually enrich the fuel in the tank? Even if that means using the highest octane fuel you can get. It’s not like you put diesel in.

Not sure what it was before but now saying recommended at 5 years. Not the definite “X” or “as required”. I’ll prob wait until 50k miles, which with the miles I do will be at about 10 years. Cynic in me wonders if it’s coz dealers are struggling for technicians and this is a way of freeing up capacity.

Daft question but has anything else on the service schedule been changed?

So, have I got this right, my MY20 will need a cam belt change at 5 years? The car will only have ~25k on the clock when that date arrives. 🙁

Would be too much to hope that the 2.0 Tdi is the same?

And so much easier topping up from a pump rather than out of a 10l container. 👍 I just wish I could find a petrol station near me that has such a thing fitted for car use. Not sure whether we are welcome/able to use the HGV pumps. As a slight side note, how much is AB from a pump these days? I’ve noticed the 10l containers have virtually doubled in price.

Sensible choice, it’s what I’d have done. 👍

SWMBO opened a letter from our dealer offering loads of stock (SWMBO’s words) Karoq at “cost price”, whatever that is vs reality. Needless to say it went straight in the recycling bin (planet saved 👍 ) without me getting a look at it. Planning to keep Skippy until it falls apart, it’s just perfect for what we do and hopefully means we’re not forced to go electric for a long, long, long time. We usually keep cars for well over 10 years, we have a 12 year old and a 16 year old car in the collection that are still going strong.

Do VW/Skoda just use the DSG box? If so I wouldn’t have an issue with that as the gearbox on Skippy is the best auto I’ve driven.👍

Battery a bit low? Might be worth putting it on charge overnight to see if it still doesn’t work next day when fully charged. Or just enjoy it not working, would save either myself or Mrs DSL switching it off after every start! 😆

Assuming cars with SatNag have CarPlay, forget inbuilt systems and just use Google Maps. I’ve used it all around the planet and it’s generally spot on and a lot less hassle. 👍

I thought they’d dropped the boot light/torch???