SpotnikHTP04

Couldn’t find any at Poundland, or Halfords, or B&Q... I will order some stuff of the good old amazon though. These are all for a 1.2 6y2 Fabia with a BMD engine code - from glorious amazon prime. NDD and return conditions that are always in the customers favour. Spark plugs: https://amzn.to/46nLbfW Air Filter: https://amzn.to/49R2Fo0 Air Gas: https://amzn.to/3MWKDa6

I agree Pete. Spark plugs now, are they original or have they been changed? I’m voting that they haven’t been changed since production. Answer will be revealed tomorrow 19:00 latest.

80k miles. loads of history with the car and I haven’t seen anything about spark plugs or coils.

Off to Halfords for some canned air it seems… I wonder how the spark plugs are doing since they haven’t been out at all it seems from the papers.

Hello all, Skoda Fabia 1.2 Classic BMD Engine 2007 I intended to remove and examine the spark plugs today since I have new ones on the way (Bosch Super Plus FR7HC+ Spark Plugs). However, once I pulled the injectors out (which were a bit old I should probably get another 2 new ones) the spark plugs had loads of dust, little bits and even a small fly in the housing, I can imagine that once I pull out the plug there’s a small chance some of that will get in, or is it safe to pull out the spark plug and it would drag everything out with it. Ultimately, it’s better safe than sorry and if anyone has any advice on cleaning up the spark plug passages let me know! I should probably get new coils too right? Photos attached.

Hello all, I previously was the owner of a 1.2 04 Fabia in black, it actually didn’t start after I left it out a bit so I scrapped it. Was busy with work and the car needed a suspension overhaul. Yesterday I picked up 'red bean’ with a cyl. misfire No.1 and water pump issue. It was running absolutely sh**e, barely going past 10mph and the owner said it was an accelerator cable issue, which we promptly shut down and explained what it really was. I bought the car for a bargain. Fixed it all roadside (new coil, water pump and belt) with a local mechanic in MK (he was so cool). Then, I drove it back to london purring as it should. All systems Green you could say. about 40-45mpg for the motorway journey to london. I thought it's better to fix it in MK instead of towing it to London for 120+ and expensive labour (quoted £200 by a guy I know that has a garage) Here is a photo of the new pickup . Full service history, loads of receipts, arguable the top 5 best documented 6y2 Fabia in London I would like to say. New Clutch, New AUX belt, tensioner, water pump, serpentine belt, bushings, rear discs and a few more so I was well surprised to see it go for sale for so low. Red bean needs: Electric window upgrade - manual sucks! New key with central locking (using the spare) * New key barrel for N/S door * SPINS IN POSITION... Full service (pads, discs, plugs, oil, air and cabin filter) - nice way to bond with the car on a Sunday * AC Regas and leak test (still blows cold just hissing) Comfier seats, I always disliked these seats New front and rear bumper, there’s another car on FB marketplace that i really want this one to look like, but I don’t think I’ll have my wheels that big (he put the VRS ones on). Deffo need a digital screen like the ripspeed one that folds out. Front and Rear bumper - present ones are cracked - Could I fit rear bumpers with parking sensors in* All in all, the Skoda Fabia 1.2 HTP is so good, I bought it twice, and haven’t even bothered trying to find another car that is as well rounded as this beauty, wonderful engine sound in the first 3 gears, rolls well and is still a very good looking car in any city. Please welcome red bean to the forum and hopefully I can update as I go along, and try not to make the same mistakes as I did when I was working on Spotnik HTP-04 a couple years ago. * Urgent + advice needed, i.e; part numbers, youtube links, trusted garages in E. London. Photos attached: Red Bean parked on my friend's drive after getting fixed and up to scratch. Cyl. Misfire Code ( we took the coil from position 1 to 3 to test if the error code followed the faulty ignition coil, which it did as we can see here) Last photo is a general look of what I’d like the car to look like while it’s here in London. No VW wheels tho, probably Skoda Alloys they were nice.

@sepulchravethat does not sound good at all. I’ll see what can be done but I imagine it’s not anything simple. cars being used for a delivery job so I hope it can work with me for a month or two.

Fitted Anti Roll Bars/ Stabilisers. Very simple job when you realise you can use the weight of the car to get the bars out. Passenger side took me 1hr, driver side 20m. torqued to 40nm and it sounds so much better now. Now I think my strut mount bearing in the driver side is groaning when I’m turning (0-10mph) so hopefully I can sort that out soon before it breaks the coil again.

I’ve read a couple posts and that has been mentioned a few times. I’ll see what can be done. It seems like it’s misfiring when idle, some loss of power then back up again. Getting it checked for some codes to see what that could be. Drives as smooth as silk in gear especially on some tarmac.

This is True

Okay so hear this… my car literally plays a the beat from Mad Max: Fury Road. I have attached a video but if that doesn’t work I’ll edit a YouTube video link so anyone can listen. *clutch in* sound stops *clutch out* sound starts 1.2 HTP manual AZQ engine

@Rum4mo, thanks, I’ve been rushing replies and not including everything. But rest assured I have changed the bearing too! I have my old parts I’ll take some photos and show you guys how bad they were! Now I’ve got the stabilisers, I’ve seen where they are and I’m sure I could fit them myself if I can find a no16 spanner. Which they never include in the sets… also my engine mgmt light came on immediately after an oil change. The dude reset it but it’s come up again. My engine is running rough, maybe an overfill? But let’s get to that once I’ve sorted the suspension out. also thanks all for the responses I’ve read them all, the Meyle links do look good but I went with Febi as I have for pretty much every suspension part this year. They did look bloody strong though. Extra thanks to the guys that really took time to explain. I have read through it all.

So I done some digging on the net and the rumbling could be the gearbox mount under the engine, will try lift and double check today. Also am going to double check my stabiliser links and what not since I don't think they've been changed yet. The gearbox mount It seems like I could do with a No16 socket and I have a torque wrench if it's really necessary. I need to get the tracking done but I wanted to sort the stabiliser links first before I do that... Here is a screenshot of what I wanted to pickup. Please advise if it's overkill or better to change it all.

Just got the parts today and had them fitted. Dropped off at garage at 2pm and collected at around 4:30 was charged £150 for labour. I need to get the car tracked and wanted to know what that process really is. Also, knocking and groaning from steering at low speeds and when parking up, since I just changed the following; see photo attached Listed; 2X FRONT SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM / WISHBONE LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT OUTER BUSH LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT TIE ROD END OUTER LEFT AND RIGHT 2X FRONT TIE ROD JOINT / INNER LEFT AND RIGHT It also does still knock when I'm going over rough roads and that is getting really unpleasant, and im sure the vibrations aren't good for anyone. Any advice or pointers would be grand! I would take it for tracking but I feel like something else needs changing before I do that so just wanting to get everything out of the way.

Hey, Thanks so much for the help, it's exactly as you said. Thanks!

Hello all, I am getting a few parts for the 1.2 htp AZQ petrol fabia 6y2. I have ordered this from eBay; 273790090994 As well as a top strut mount and a coil since mine snapped! The Chap has asked if my car has power steering. Which I confirmed. Then he asked what type of rack ends I'd need, which I am not sure of. He said something about steering rack made by SMI-Koyo which could have meant SMI or Koyo? I'm not well versed in this at the moment. If anyone had a clue I'd appreciate the help. Many thanks!

I think I am having a similar problem, my key does unlock and lock all doors except the back 2, so coming in with passengers I'll have to open the front doors then manually open the back two from the inside. When it comes to locking i'll have to remind the passenger or myself to push down the locking button and it locks well. Not too much of a nightmare but it does get annoying. Any tips on what might be at fault please let me know.

I've picked up some 5w40 oil (Comma XFPD5L 5L X-Flow Type PD).

The time has come. looking for any advice and any part numbers for a DIY service. So far I have fitted the new Cabin and Air filter. Onto the new oil and its filter. Then the fuel filter to and spark plugs to finish off. I'm avoiding draining the oil until I can confirm that I have the correct sump plug. The one I bought from autodoc doesn't seem to have a torx head like the posts here have suggested it has. Here is a link for the sump plug i have, along with the other service parts; Sump plug - 9868304 <-- i think this one is wrong as it doesnt have the torx head but it should still work? Air filter - 8000957 Fuel filter - 963979 <-- autodoc and this one below from amazon but i think it was the wrong one I will see when I get under. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B005NFYVCU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Cabin Filter - 8001131 Spark Plug - 8315423

Thanks for your comment though.

Yeah Ive got to get to the brake shoes and give the drum a good clean so these do have to come off today. I work as a courier so getting back on the road with a car that doesn't scream is essential.

Nope, it seems too far gone now. Ive seen a few tools that remove the screw but its far too late now to run around shopping, and it's getting dark.. Any hail Mary's that could get this out ?.

Nice one I'll give it a whirl now.

And, Ill try a flat head, i have a decent toolbox, so hopefully its not gone. And what youre saying is, if I get the screw removed, I could leave it out since the drum is held in by other bolts... please elaborate... thanks!

on another episode of just my luck... put everything back together to go halfords to pickup some stuff, returned to finish the job... Lo and behold i have managed to strip the screw. I must've tightened them about 5 degrees t0o tight. What are my options here, once i get this out i will be beating it up for ruining my day.