Mario_Delgado

Yeah, you're right, I am using paddle shifters only when I am in individual, but M means Manual for sure.

In addition, if you are driving on a custom driving profile, gear will be shown as M1, M2, M3.

Yes, I had the same problem once, I had to remove the lateral panel with the airbag switch. I did a full scan followed by a clear all ECU errors with OBDEleven and the issue was solved.

Thanks all for this post and specially to @Giannis20 for sharing the file with the community ! Just upgraded without any issues.

Very well detailed already. Not complex but depending on your hardware it will be more or less time consuming. From my side, make sure that you have VCDS or OBDEleven to release EPB. There are some videos detailing the change without releasing it but way better and faster via tool. And I would recommend you Liqui Molly 3077 as brake paste, top notch.

I would do it a try, for sure. Not sure for the rest, but for me, after the lasts OTA updates 1941 version feels laggy when starting.

Just to be sure, I guess yes but: do you have properly set 2 steps authentication for SFD? Last time I had problems with CU03 for brakes and the issue was that, I do not know why but after the last app update authentication was not able to remember my credentials.

I guess that, in the wiring harness, wires going from the front camera to the control unit are coming without the connector mounted otherwise it would be a real nightmare to pass it through the grommet on the firewall. Area view retrofit deserves a post for itself I think.

Yes yes, I do know, but this time my risk appetite is equal zero, you do not know who will check the car. Maybe next year, if I still own the car, I will go fo it.

Negative, in December I have to pass first TUV inspection and I want to have a clean sheet. Normally it's not a problem, but after reading a bit, seems that sometimes braided lines are marked as non stock part and therefore they put a fail. Maybe after the inspection I change them with a complete liquid brake flush.

And brakes done, finally I went for the Sport Coat Z instead Black Z, for the use of the car it was not worth paying for more performance that we are not going to use. For the time being, happy with the upgrade, but I had more expectations of having more hard brake pedal feeling at the first touch, but not.

Interesting, let us know if you move forward, I will put it in the possible to do list with the area view.

Complex I would say. Besides the software part ... screens are not plug and play, not sure if you would have room enough at the back of the screen inside the dashboard. Whilst the back side of the Octavia is flat, the Enyaq one is not, you have the flat surface where the connections are installed. Screenshot from the top of the screen.

I was talking about the virtual cockpit. It will depend on the hardware version of the virtual cockpit. If your Octavia is a recent one l, it will behave as in the video. For me, despite the fact of running in a older version of virtual cockpit, it's worth the investment.

Hi @Sque4ler, not in my case, I have the initial version of the virtual cockpit and it's not as powerful as that one from the video.

I think that you are right, you would need to do the combo. As @TheUltraRunner says, control unit in old versions is less powerful, depending on the resolution of the new head unit the response could be laggy; assuming that the new one is plug and play, of course (Wiring diagrams to be checked).

To be checked once all is properly released but ... do you think that the screen could be retrofitted?

And here we go !

indeed, it's a different one, a bit bigger.

Hi guys, just an update here from my side. I did it with the full set, letters and backplate and so far so good. I used that one: But it's impossible to use the screws and fixing plate, it doesn't sit properly on the grille and generates tension on the badge, impossible to keep it in place. So you remove the original badge carefully, specially on upper/lower part. Adhesive used in factory is powerful, in my case, part of the backplate was stick on the grille, bit of grinding with the Dremel was needed. Once grinded, I used 2 compound Loctite super glue and done.

Wow, really impressive, congrats! @s3bek for the wiring, if I am not mistaken, you have the wiring section on the wiring diagram, for connector A5 0.5 mm2 wire section.

Hi @Micky 32 Yes, they are. From my local tuner, stage 1 is +40 hp with +60 Nm torque.

Hi @Bima, as far as I am aware, there are no plug and play catch cans yet. APR list their GEN 3 MQB compatible with the DNPA GEN 4 engine, but there are not, or at least I haven't been capable to find, feedback from people who installed one. For me, best objective feedback I've found so far is Charles' outcome after he installed one on his 2019 Golf: For me, it's not worth its price; however, what I do in a regular basis is adding Liquy Moly fuel injector cleaner (1971) to clean and prevent carbon deposits.

Well, normally I will do the upgrade somewhere in February, finally I will go for EBC redstuff + Zimmermann Black Z on both front and rear axis. While preparing the paperwork, I just spot something on the maintenance manual a bit ... excessive? It's stated that, when applying pressure on the brake fluid reservoir, manometer should sit on 0.2 MPa ... that's 29 PSI. When doing the brake bleed on my 335d I was never going above 18 PSI. What do you think?

Well … I've using it for quite a long time now and only to clean rims. Of course I am not using it every wash, but six months I would say it's excessive as a time period for that particular application. The average in my case I would say is 1,5 months and always respecting user manual, specially what's related to temperature and exposition to sun when applying. And so far so good, for both rims and brake calipers paint coating.