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sunshinedave

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  1. It’s there on my VRS (UK 2023 car). Not sure where it’s fed from (I suspect the SOS unit), as it’s not one of the outputs of the infotainment unit in the speaker output section. Anyway, it plays very quietly as can be sometimes heard for half a second when starting the car before the DSP kicks in with the other speakers. After that it’s not noticeable. But you’re right the 5.4DSP does each door (tweeter and mid) and the sub output. The guy who did my DSP tuning said it didn’t really cause any dramas with tuning the sound, which is lucky I guess.
  2. It’s a strange one, I dislike touchscreens for disabling the stuff I shouldn’t have to, that is on/off by default (Stop Start, Air Care etc), but then having used a 2018 B9 Audi’s MMI that had CarPlay without a touchscreen, that was a bigger nightmare, as unlike some stuff you can “muscle memory” with physical switches and wheels, CarPlay you can’t so much! So I really appreciate the touchscreen for CarPlay, that may car displays 99% of the time. With OBDEleven and its “One Click Apps”, I disabled Stop/Start, Permanently enabled Air Care, and allowed full headlight control when moving. When I’m back I’ll be working on permanently disabling Stop/Start also, but that’s a fair bit more involved (not just coding).
  3. Good to know. Let me know if you find a good CAN H/L pickup point for the power train bus. I know in the past Audis have had pins available in a connector on the side of the dash. I was in there recently on my O4 VRS, passengers side anyway and there was no such connector. I’ll have to check the drivers side, but it would be nice if we didn’t have to back-pin anything to get onto the bus.
  4. Please keep us posted on how you get on. Im looking into something similar, particularly on the Octavia 4 (NX) trying to find the message that the 5F module sends out when I press the start-stop button on the screen. (And also monitoring the start/stop status as shown on the screen also).
  5. I know on previous Audis I’ve owned, the 5F (MMI) units have sometimes had AV inputs you can select, used with stuff like TV Tuners, maybe DVD players etc. Anyone know if there’s something similar on the MIB3 fitted to an Octavia 4 VRS? I am half thinking of a project and it’s depend on getting the video into the screen. Thanks!
  6. If youre still looking I've done a guide inc the part numbers here
  7. A quick guide for the Octavia 4 (NX) platform car for adding the glove box cooling, a simple mod, demonstrated here on a RHD UK car. Tools Reqd: T20 Torx screwdriver Trim pry tool Parts Reqd: 5E0816355 (Valve/Vent) 5E0816311 (Air Hose) Skoda Parts Direct (in the UK) quoted me £28.58 for these. Step 1 - use trim pry tool to remove the passenger dash side panel. If you remove the airbag swich connector you'll likely get a fault code (definitely if you turn the ignition on with this disconnected), so have your VCDS/OBDEleven ready to reset this - or leave it connected. Step 2 - undo the two screws shown with black arrows, releasing the side of the glove box. Step 3 - unhook the glove box damper arm (orange arrow). Depress the tabs (green arrows) and allow the glove box to drop to its full extent. Undo the 3 screws at the top edge (black arrows). Step 4 - undo the two screws underneath the glove box at each end. Gently pull on the glove box and release it from the dash. Undo the 3 cables (2x lights and 1x light switch on the damper arm). Step 5 - squeeze the tab (green arrow) and pull the air distribution plenum towards you. Step6 - remove rubber blanking cap. Step 7 add hose. Step 8 - refit plenum. Step 9 - fit the vent to the existing cutout in the top of the glove box, and attach hose. Step 10 - "Refitting is reverse of removal" as the Haynes manual used to say. Enjoy cold air in the glove box! You'll note that whether the climate is set to Hot, or Cold, the glove box is always fed directly with cold air. Hope this helps someone!
  8. From Škoda here; https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do
  9. Did you rotate the isofix covers to release them? Remove the centre covers and rotate the base slightly so it slides off the pin. Once they’re out there’s two clips at the front of the seat either side of the seat you release by pulling sharply up. They do break sometimes so it’s worth having replacements if necessary. Ps, definitely when you pull the front of the rear bench up do it sharply, ideally with fingers either side of the loop that engages in the clip. It’s basically metal coat hangar wire, if you pull slowly it’ll bend and then your seat will be a bit loose on refit, where a sharp tug should release from the clip without bending the wire.
  10. You click the download link next to the file title in erWin, in the repair information section. If it says “Order flat rate” rather than Download/View, it’s because you don’t have a current subscription for access. It’s about £7 for 1hr (enough to download all of the repair manuals for your car), or £26ish for 24hrs.
  11. My 23 plate came with Eagle F1 Assy 5s, and still similar with road noise. I’m going to be adding a load of sound deadening and insulation when I get chance (and I’ll do the missus car too, a 70 plate Piccanto, that thing is horrendous for road noise!)
  12. Looks great. Did you use the “medium” power with the standard wiring or run a +12v for high power? Im wanting to run the higher power for mine, but don't really want to run to the battery terminal if i can help it. I’d much sooner add a new fuse holder and 30A fuse to an existing fuse box space, and run it from there (ideally where the original fuse for a canton amplifier would be for a canton specced car) - just to keep it neat.
  13. Yeah I’ll be interested to see how you have mounted it, mine is also a RHD (UK VRS hatch). Which sub did you go for also? I’m looking at something like an aftermarket in-spare wheel sub, to sit neatly out of the way. (Thought I’ve recently seen people recommending the B&O Q5 2021+ in wheel sub as a decent option too).
  14. How did you get on with this? I’m considering exactly the same Match DSP + a sub, with standard Octavia speakers, just wondering if you found a worthwhile difference?

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