ApertureS

It must be showing a fault code if there is a fault on the dash. chances are their scan tool is not capable of doing it

Who fitted the battery? Was it adapted to the car and were codes cleared? Cause both these things need to be done.

The child lock (when fitted with electronic child lock) is very tempremental to voltage drops. How long ago did you have the battery fitted and when did the fault occur? That being said latches do fail but generally its a low voltage code. We have a large fleet of superb's and they all suffer with it after a flat battery.

Why not let the garage source the parts themselves, they can guarantee they will fit then and offer a warranty. If you supply the wrong ones and they dont fit, you can bet they will still charge you for the time as its your fault their wrong, not theirs?

If your car is 2016 and it hasnt been done yet, that belt is 6 years old. A year over what VAG recommend. Why the recommendation? Rubber deteriorates and perishes. Personally I would get it done ASAP, its cheaper than a new engine.

Give us some more details? is it trying to start, is the ignition coming on? chances are it will work if you press the start button really hard and wiggle it at the same time. Repair the button or replace it if that’s the case

This is just hearsay. If an engine is made to have oil sucked out, such as the new Mercedes engine, the amount of oil left in is basically none, lots of videos on YouTube covering it. not sure about the 1.4act engine if it is made to do it, I believe the 2.0tsi is though

The sticker is on top under the black metal cross bracket. Your headlamps don’t end in D. Will be A or B. Every superb has eye lashes, whether they have the hardware to light up depends on A or B. You can also just check your settings - vehicle - lights section for High Bean Assist or Smart Light Assist

No i mean you can hack the gateway module to stay in E after ignition cycle, its a lot of work though. The underlying logic on this is an odd one but basically after about MY16 they didnt stay in E after ignition cycle.

Perfectly normal, it can be modified to stay on by way of custom datasets but it is a lot of work.

Not at all, mot’s are more like £30-45 nowadays anyway plus the time you’ve gotta take out your day. But where do you draw the line? If it’s due a service in 6 months you gonna do that for them too? Personally if it’s got more than 3/4 months mot on it then I’m not gonna hassle for a fresh mot, especially when it’s a sellers market at the moment.

I mean it’s got almost 6 months mot on it, I wouldn’t be putting a new one on it either. to be completely honest with you and mot is classed as the bare minimum a car needs to be legal. It is in no way a determination of quality. The tyres on that car could be 20 years old and perished, the side windows could be chipped to hell, the paint could be rusty and bubbly, it could of never had a service in its life. im not saying any of this is true but all of these things wouldn’t even be mentioned on an mot and the issues that are on that mot are from 3+ years ago. if you’re wary of the car take someone that knows what they’re looking at, not just ‘my friends grandad used to be a mechanic in the war’, you’ll need someone that’s actually clued up on newer cars, their technologies and that can ideally scan for any fault codes then and there, you’ll be surprised what this can show up and open your eyes too. in terms of what you should look out for, engine wise they are pretty good with very occasional timing cover leaks and water pump leaks, body work they are pretty good except for thin paint that chips easily, wheels aren’t known for cracking, rear brakes corroded much faster than the fronts. Other than that, they are good cars as long as it’s got all it’s servicing up to date including 40k intervals on the automatic gearbox

You say you can’t update... so I’m assuming you have a hacked or illegal copy of vcds? Yes it is, depending on radio depends what camera you need and it needs coding using main dealer software if it is mib3 radio.

So would I, the 4M0 part number isn’t what I’d normally fit. In fact the 4M0 part number is an older camera version I believe so that explains the lack of options and compatibility. you are correct about he should have a 5Q0 for full compatibility.

Flexible head and a few extensions and it’s possible, just a bit awkward

take a look in 5f long coding, you may have rvc_low enabled in one of the bytes

Yeah looks like you’ve coded something wrong. what did you touch in module 19, 10, 5F? Specifically.

Chance are you’ve coded it incorrectly or it’s a bad camera. what year is the car, any fault codes, show us a autoscan. what long coding have you got and what are you trying to change? what did you enable in other modules as you won’t have 76 but will have 10. If it’s a mib3 camera you’ve fitted, you won’t be able to code it with vcds.

Dare we ask how much it was? And what you were invoiced?

Sorry to be the barer of bad news. Im not sure what car you have whether a yeti or a octavia 3 so ive first sent a picture of a yeti trailer module that if they fitted genuine, this is what it would of been. Second photo is of a wiring kit for a dedicated genuine towbar wiring setup. The 3rd photo is of a octavia tow/trailer module. Theres a lot of similarities between them and what you have had fitted is none of these sorry.

Genuine parts alone for me cost about £350 - They are pulling your pants down at that price. 1 to 1.5 hours tops! Personally id fit Pagid if you want to go the aftermarket route - Parts for these are around £240

Well this post has been a roller coaster! I cant stand these generic relay/tow bar kits. They dont work well on new cars at all and the state of the way that was fitted! Definetely not dedicated wiring at all and not an OEM setup. On a car with ADAS systems the only way people should be going is with OE retrofits, none of this aftermarket rubbish, it plays haywire with every other system @Dale_Stevensdoesnt have a genuine setup although it does look a bit more than a basic wire splice and go. Regarding your fault andy, the first thing that needs doing is plugging in to a genuine tool or vcds and checking for faults. Any other tools will struggle to give detailed information on the trailer module.

Hey there, welcome. As John said above, the 1.8 petrol isnt an option in the UK and i dont believe anywhere. It was avaiable in the earlier mk2 superb, what year car are you considering? Regarding the ea888 newer generation of petrol engines for the 2.0 tsi, these are fairly reliable with occasional water pump issues and thats about it really.

The headlamp switch has nothing to do with it. What fault codes have you got? chances of it being a complete failure of the bcm is unlikely.

The cover is made of a specific material with a specific uniform density throughout and the radar is calibrated to pass through the cover and take that into consideration. if the cover is damaged or marked this can cause the radar waves to be deflected at a different angle and cause problems with picking up objects or calibration. all depends on the size of any damage. remove the cover and test if it works just fine without it