ApertureS

Spot on. This is gonna be a first for what i believe is anyone to do. The seat metal frame is different with/without the remote release so we are gonna wait and see how different once its stripped down completely, Ill document it all as i go. So weve got: -Heated rear seats -Remote release rear seats One more - the middle photo

And to change the car type is done with byte 0-2 what superb is it, combo or hatch?

Component protection can only be done using main dealer software with a license. there is no getting round that. where are you based as I offer this?

For additional passenger monitoring exactly. Measures heart rate too. Rear seat heating is one of them!

1 skoda point to the person that guesses what ive ordered and what im retrofitting next! hint - its more than 1 thing and yes 2 of the photos are off google as parts havent all arrived yet.

Just use a multimeter pin 1 to 1 should be a straight link pin 2 to 2 should have resistance or vice versa

Its a bit confusing but the 2 systems are not linked and completely independent. The navigation will give speed limits based on GPS and map references. For the dashboard to display traffic signs you will need the A5 'triangle' windscreen camera and it will need to be enabled, not with an update but with VCDS or ODIS or similar software. The dashboard display is done by the camera, the navigation is done by GPS. Regarding map updates - this can be done for free on the skoda website by entering your VIN and downloading the file to a suitable SD card.

Not on all models, on some the interior monitoring is disabled through the radio

First thing is stop throwing random chemicals in, 99% of them wont fix the issue and youre wasting your money You need to give more details -What kind of driving does the car get, in detail -What scan tool are you using and when you say according to the readings, what readings? -Taking the dpf off to clean it will not help either as the ash content will not change -How many oil changes have you done on it then and for what reason did you do them, how do you know its diluted oil? Give some answers to these and we might be able to pin point a cause

Modern coolants work off a Silicate based OAT - Organic additive technology these additives carboxylates and triazole are a form of mild acid hence why leaving them on paint work is not the best of ideas. They are perfectly safe for in engine use and are fine for plastics, metals and rubbers they come into contact with. The reason newer pink/red OAT anti freezes are used with aluminium/alloy parts is the carboxylate acid inhibitors are what are put in to prevent oxidisation and corrosion of aluminium parts. If older blue anti freeze was used this would allow the alloys to corrode and in some cases become permeable. Its just a mild warning to prevent paintwork damage and cover their backs.

Not sure how exactly one could be checked except for a visual check, i doubt they would go to the trouble of smoke/vacuum checking the system for leaks. Probably a cursory glace over it and no fuel leaking so say its okay.

You can buy a kit for the mk4 which is about £600, probably similar price for the mk3 kit. Then a lot of wiring.

There’s a lot more you need. latch and motor struts wiring loom control module I’m assuming you have a manual boot

The amount of time ive been working on cars... I can assure you using the wrong coolant causes 2 things - jelly like substance or corrosion to the cylinder head if ally - not a quick process and happens over 1000s of miles and years. What youre doing here is conformation bias, youre looking for things that support your line of inquiry rather than facts - random websites and forums with out dated information and people with 'trust me bro' knowledge is not a reliable source. The reason youre chasing leaks is simple - a leak allows pressure to be lost, pressure will leave via the easiest point, the weakest. You fix the leak which is the weakest, that pressure then finds the next weakest spot to escape and it carries on. The photo you posted its hard to tell but its either leaking from the side of the head and running round or that head gasket is fubar. My guess is the latter. If your head gasket had failed this badly as you say from incorrect coolant, all the seals would be falling apart and water pump, thermostat, headgasket to oil and to cylinder would all be leaking.

The VW lithium grease is about £50 a tube... for anyone wanting to use the exact same stuff but 10x cheaper, multi purpose lithium grease in a tube from eBay/amazon is the exact same stuff Only issue with this stuff is, it doesnt last forever. Instead i would recommend Morris K99 marine grease - £10 a tub and will last a lot longer and much more water resistant meaning it will last years without issue

Halfords are the worst of the worst. Used to work for them about 10 years ago before actually becoming a qualified mechanic. Theyre training comes down to reading an online module and away you go, things get broken constantly, bodged, covered up if no one noticed. Some of theyre equipment should not be on sale and should not be used such as aircon gas refills - I need a F gas certification to touch an aircon system but any tom **** or harry working at or buying from halfords can buy a can of gas without a clue what theyre doing. Ive been on both ends of the scale, working for them and now wouldnt recommend a single person goes to them for any work.

The part number is just for the plug. All this is is a 'fake' tuning box, it goes to the coolant temp sensor and just increases resistance to make the car think its always cold so run rich. All thats inside the box is a resistor thats had a load of potting compound thrown on top. Not worth the plastic its made from, throw it in the bin.

This was beautiful to read, spot on information and covers everything perfectly. cars often run much hotter than 90, just the gauge will only ever show 90 to prevent people from panicking, a coolant gauge is not a direct connection and hasn’t been for years! spot on about oil being the main coolant too and the thermostat’less engines nowadays. I think most people here are looking into it too much and trying to find a problem that isn’t there. oil is not gonna sit at 90/100 degrees, it will fluctuate depending on a lot of factors.

There is only a single radiator that does the entire cabin called a heater matrix, it will constantly be hot. the thing that determines temperature for 1/2/3 zone climate is blend flaps which mix the hot and cold air as requested, 1 for each zone. A blend motor or flap could be stuck causing it

Turn the ignition off, hold the wiper stalk down for 3 seconds, they should move to the vertical position. ignition on and active the wipers to reset afterwards

Long life 4 oil is what is used. Comes in 0W20 You can also use long life 3 which comes as a 5W30 Your manual should state VW508/509 or VW504/507 it may even state either or both.

Neither would I,I’d just buy it from them, wouldn’t let them near my car. fair enough if a foot pump isn’t suitable though.

8 minutes??? 32 minutes to do 4 tyres, could of drove to a local Halfords and got a manual foot pump, done the pressures and got back home before that was finished 😂 I personally don’t recommend the battery stuff for this kind of reason, way too slow

Ive never had an issue with mine personally. That being said its an MQB platform car so a golf or passat seat would most likely fit, but again it would be very similar.

Yeah it’s not a massive issue I agree If it was me I’d be getting it replaced - if I didn’t break it then it’s for them to put back to how it was 😂