ApertureS

Clean the front grill is the first thing to try. after that it may need fault codes checking as there may be a hidden issue

Exactly yes, the only 2 modules effected are the HVAC and Central Electronics. The 5F radio will display the button automatically.

I believe there is a big thread about it on here somewhere. there are 2 slightly different variants for the different mount types. general consensus is they make it a bit rough to start with then settle down and have a much more positive feel.

When you say dynamic do you mean a spinning centre badge?

Dont take it to Skoda. Find a decent independent garage that can scan it, check for any faults, strip the boot down and see whats going on inside. Could be the tensioning cable has snapped or the motor or latch has failed. Cant be diagnosed over the internet sadly but you shouldnt be paying main dealer prices thats for sure.

Either plug can be used in CHHA. I personally go for NGK.

06K905601B is a NGK plug for CJXA, CZPA, CZPB 06K905611C is a BOSCH plug for CJSA, CJSC, CHHB

Give me a few weeks, I’ll put some photos up as I do the job and you’ll soon instantly regret even thinking of the idea 😂😂

A sportline alloy won’t fit and the boot floor will sit proud. You’ll need a 16 inch space saver steel wheel, it is made to go with the 19s

What OBD scanner have you ordered because none will give you more details than that. even odis only gives you that and that is the main dealer tool.

The short answer is - any remap whether to engine or gearbox will invalidate your warranty. tuning boxes can still be detected even after removal as they run a test procedure that compares values that the car has hit eg. Max boost, speed, torque, fuel pressure and compare these to what the maximum could possibly be, if they’re above that it’s clear there is tampering. if you had engine or gearbox issues, there is 100% chance they will check as they don’t get paid by the big Skoda bosses otherwise.

It’s all a way for them to make more money. They will find the smallest issue and say we won’t allow the warranty until it’s sorted for a generally, large cost. just another way they squeeze the money out of you

The windscreen company will deal with all that if you are going through your insurance policy. They will do it themselves or have a contract

They had a technical service bulletin. during start up procedure they would stop half way meaning they pointed straight at the ground. a small software update sorted this out and that is probably what you had done

100% they will need to be recalibrated - anyone that tells you different is lying. Due to recent legislation/rule changes from insurers the glass replacer must either recalibrate or get someone to recalibrate before you get the car back as its part of a driver assistance system. As small as a 1 degree change in the position can throw the positioning out by meters over its active sight area hence why the tolerances are down to 10ths of a degree. -Qualified ADAS Tech

Take it ‘else where’ clear the code and take it back to them saying it’s now fixed. it won’t come back and if it does - you have the warranty

You poked around under the seats? Airbag plugs run through there.

Wow - £450 for a fault check and replacing a fan seems very expensive! Only takes about 1/2 hours at most

I am very much interested in this part... so lets try and break it down. The water pump with electric thermostat - assuming you mean the shroud as they dont have a thermostat They corrode - well not so much no, to corrode the coolant must be incorrect for corrosion to occur, but mainly they seize in the closed position causing overheating - what coolant are you using? Contaminate the radiator - what is contaminating the radiator, if they corrode and become soluble in water are they blocking the galleries or just sending rusty water through the cooling system Valve systems - again its a valveless system, you have a water pump and a lot of pipe work, you also have auxilary water pumps Cause pressure - the water pump has ample space around it even if the area was completely blocked around it, it will not build up enough pressure to do any damage, that comes from the expansion of coolant creating the pressure Youre changing 3 water pumps in a lets say 100k period, lets say it was the pump, what brand, genuine? 3 pumps in youd have to wonder is it really the pump causing issues... Blocks the system - what is blocking the system? the silicat bag has a tendancy to block the system with large particles - if youre saying similar, where are they coming from Sucks water through the head - Well this is an interesting one, if the system is building up enough pressure after the water pump it will be backing up and choking the pump out, meaning there is no way to create a vacuum before the pump, but lets say a vacuum is being produced behind the pump, in the cooling jackets (a diesel combustion cylinder creates pressures of up to 500psi and temperatures up to 2000C) between cooling jackets and cylinders is 99% the same head gasket material, youre telling me the flimsy 4/5 vein water pump with no directional sealing made out of plastic is producing over 500 psi of vacuum! almost 35 bar below atmosphere. Well no wonder youre having issues then, youre lucky to still be alive and your murderous water pump hasnt sucked your eyes out of your head!!!!! I would very much love to know who told you all this and what books they write Also last thing: I am not doubting that TDI water pump shrouds seize and TSI thermostat housings crack - It is a known issue and a fairly common one on the newer gen of VAG engines.

Sorry not sure what you mean, ODIS is the main dealer diagnostic software using a VAS5054 or VAS6154 dongle, it is used to do everything including coding/fault finding/component protection and much more. Will easily set you back £500+ Regarding driving position, what do you mean? where is it you are seeing the driving position on the display?

Yes but you still need the odis dongle which isn’t cheap

A dealer can do it yes. Based on the quoted writing im assuming youre not in the UK, let alone Europe? I offer it in the UK byte 1 - 03 byte 2 - 84 byte 3 - 02 Skoda Superb Kombi

3 for 3, thats the last one yup! This in itself is a very basic retrofit parts and wiring wise, doing 120m of additional wiring for canton compared to about 3m of wiring for the rear climate. The fun part comes when the entire dashboard, heater box, centre console, steering column, scuttle panel, front seats and loads more need either removing or moving out the way. Massive job timewise but should keep me busy for 2/3 days! Also gives me time to neaten up all my other wiring and retrofits that arent run perfectly behind the dashboard!

I take a whole bunch of photos as i go with my retrofits so ill have no problem sharing them with you. Karoq is on the MQB platform too so should be identical really.

The rear seat heating is setting me back £100 in parts and of course my labour is free for me