ApertureS

They may be moving smoothly but if the motor detects increased resistance (you might not see it as the motor takes up the strain) they will back off as part of the anti pinch method. It cant distinguish between a trapped limb or increased friction. Also, do you have wind deflectors fitted?

Chain never needs changing, neither does the water pump belt unless you have a failure of the pump but they dont generally fail.

To avoid any confusion. all cars when new would of came with 3 keys - 1 chrome key, 2 black keys. regarding everyone having different keys, there could be many reasons from lost keys, insurance replaced, customer wanted extra keys, seller wanted to go another key for car. lots of reasons there could be less/more/different styles.

Not much you can do even with it stripped out, so much goes on in the door latches now they will just fall apart if opened up. chances are the latch has failed and should be fairly straight forward to diagnose and change under warranty.

So you have 4 different engine variants basically. 1.6 TDI - Belt driven + Water Pump 2.0 TDI - Belt driven + Water Pump 1.4 TSI - Belt driven + Separate Belt Water Pump 2.0 TSI - Chain Driven + Separate Belt Driven Water Pump the iV will be the 1.4 ACT TSI engine so belt driven. The 2.0 tsi is chain driven. EDIT: Rough costs for the belts. The tsi belt is much cheaper than the tdi belts, tsi will set you back less than £500, tdi belt with the water pump will set you back at most £800 depending on where you go of course and what parts are used.

It’s a lot more effort but if you wanted something more permanent you could run the power wire to the front of the car and connect it with a switch and a fuse tap on an ignition only source. that way you still have user control but you also don’t have to worry about it staying on once the car is off

I’d start with this as well. But you don’t need to do them all at once and you don’t need to hold for 10 seconds, a few seconds is more than enough. on top of that I’d get some silicone lubricant and make sure the runners are greased correctly to allow smooth movement with no resistance

At least this removes the need for every other thread on facebook and the forum being 'anyone know what this button is' & 'i found this button whilst cleaning the car, what is it'

Fairly inconvenient when your hands are full or the key is buried in a bag, its a very convenient feature. Battery life should easily last a year, if not longer. And regarding security, yes there is the trade off but generally Skoda's arent subject to the same level of keyless theft as Range rover's and Ford's

Spot on they dont just throw things on a car and hope for the best, they do things with a reason

Out of interest, why don’t you fill the tank? If you only ever fill it half way you’re at the pump twice as much?

I make that more of a blue colour, and even so a fault code will not be a colour code so I’d so coincidence what are you scanning it with to get this fault and can you post an actual scan/log and not just the code?

Possibly a problem with the headlamps in hot countries only?

Not sure if the MOST would be outputting but I’d assume yes. before jumping at correct/incorrect parts I’d first be checking the car with something like odis or vcds to just confirm a more purpose built tool can’t read it, then I’d be looking at either faulty or incorrect hardware

it would give that error as its expecting it. If you dont have coms then it will be one of 2 things. Either no power and ground or no canbus/most connection. Have you got a canbus connection to it or is it just done via most and a single lin wire back to the 5f module... did you fit the single wire EDIT: Checked the wiring diagram and other than the 3 aeriel connections you will have a power, ground, single wire to the 5F module on grey connector pin 3 and the most connection. Have you confirmed the single violet and green wire (if oem colours) is connected correctly, if this is all okay then the MOST needs checking, how has this been connected up, have you spliced into it where and did you use a Y splitter.

You’ll have to give us some more details. have you checked for power and ground at the tuner? have you enabled the tuner in the gateway list? can you connect to the module in any way?

There will be a fault in the system and that is why it’s disabling itself. Will need scanning for fault codes next

Genuine tow bar or aftermarket?

That’s the standard with the car, 2 fully black keys and 1 chrome key id go as far as to say either the keys have been mixed up and one point or they are not the right ones for the car. Which one works to use the car? And does the key blade work in the door?

No, any specialist with genuine odis and a security geko account will be able to do this as long as they know what theyre doing.

Test it in a different part of the car? Attach to a side window maybe and see if it resolves the issue?

You can use vcds to enable the recalibration of the seat, if that doesnt work youll need someone with odis to do it. it doesnt necessarily have to be a main dealer, a specialist should have it too

Update: Mine worked this morning no issues

That’s normal. The door lock is just physically unlocking the door, it’s not disabling the alarm. The alarm will go off until you press the unlock button on the key

Welcome to the forums 1. if youre needing to use pliers, its too much force, either the barrel has seized up or the keys are wrong, chances of 3 wrong keys would be very odd though. Coding the keys back to the car may be a bit more involved and require diagnostic software but i cant be 100% on that. 2. There are 2 different kinds of updates, one for the unit and one for the maps. The maps i understand wanting to update but why the urgency to update the infotainment unit, are you having problems? Your unit will be a MIB2 unit and will have an internal hard drive, only needs a SD card for updates. 3. Definitely no OTA updates for this year of car, that will only be on the 2020 onwards MIB3 units.