ApertureS

A very small update for all. Ive been super busy recently buying a house so the car is on the back burners. I have developed a small water leak from the water pump housing - parts are now with me but once the weather warms up, ill do an update as i replace it. With this extreme cold spell of -4 degrees for almost a week, its been AMAZING every morning using the parking heater and going out to a fully defrosted and toasty 25 degree interior car with no hassle! By far the most useful mod ive ever done and its beyond words how much time its saved me when leaving for work at 5am. Look forward to the opposite weather and using the ventilated seats and ventilation heating mode in the summer!

Very nicely done! Why did you do it out of interest, purely styling? Or did you not want to buy new mirror glass at £500 per side! Update on me: Sorry that ive almost fallen off the face of the earth recently all! Currently in the process of buying a house so all attention has been diverted to that ❤️ The Skoda is still going strong except for a leaky water pump which I will update on as it is replaced.

If you kill either of these circuits when the car doesnt expect them to be, chance are youll throw a lot of fault codes into the system and possibly bring an EML light on. Everything is done by networking now and it is not like an old car where the start button is linked to the starter motor. The starter motor is controlled by the engine ECU via multiple other modules. Your best bet is to go for a ghost immobilizer - tried and tested by many and these modify the network signals sent around the car to prevent fuel/starter/spark or a combination of the above, almost undetectable by anyone looking to quickly steal a car as they can be hidden anywhere with a canbus link (that is the entire car).

The power is supplied from the BCM. Check the pin output from the BCM to see if its there. If not, check the BCM fuses. If all are good and the BCM has power on that bank - then there is a good chance the BCM output has failed internally.

My guess is the mib2.5 hasn’t had the correct climate control adaptations turned on? have you got a photo of what your current setup looks like? As I assume the second photo isn’t yours if it has the fan speeds option. who fitted and coded the unit?

How sure are you that this is the cause? And that it’s not possibly the gearbox cooler or head gasket?

Sorry I’m not offering this at the moment as I don’t have the time anymore to do it for people! sorry!

Pre facelift have only rear cameras as an option post facelift has rear camera or areaview as an option. the cameras are in the rear usual place, under both wing mirrors and in the front grill. officially for the front it’s meant to be in the trim covering the radar but to fit this id have to replace the front end with the FL superb headlights, bumper, grill, radar and didn’t want to. so made my own OEM look bracket and fitted it that way instead. This thread has a lot more detail for you:

Everyone is making this overly complicated. In the 09 BCM module set up a new Leuchte pin to do what you require, then pin this out from the BCM to a relay to control the light bar. pdfcoffee.com_vw-mqb-golf-mk7-lighting-explanation-pdf-free.pdf

Finally got the areaview calibrated fully. Was a bit of a pain but managed to do it with the mats tight to the wheels, other than that it wouldnt pick up the front corners of the mat. Now its just a job of getting rid of the black box around the centre of the car screen. This can be done with modified datasets which I now have to hunt for!

Finally managed to get the areaview calibrated! Now to just find the correct dataset to remove the black box from around the car. Sadly I can only find Tiguan and Passat datasets. Would help if someone had a VIN of a superb with factory fitted areaview.

The MTEC discs take about 100 miles to wear the coating off the discs themselves, during this time they are very noisy but after this they will be quiet. mine are only very noisy when very hard braking. Id get them discs swapped asap though, not good of them

Sorry but parts like that dont come as a individual, it would be the entire vent assembly complete. If you can repair it or refit it, that would be best. If not, find a matching cheap one on ebay and take the part from it or just use that. Replacing the complete vent unit is roughly £170

Thought id give the intake runners a walnut blast. Surprisingly not terrible for 65,000 miles Before: After: Regarding tools used: A 3D printed manifold cover An air compressor and sand blasting gun 20kg of walnuts.... I used about 1kg at a push so if anyone wants to buy some, please let me know A vacuum So all it really cost me is crushed walnuts and some plastic for the 3d printer, everything else I already had!

Them discs are fitted backwards. MTEC have instructions in the box with each disc and also on their website. Who fitted them? This is how they should be https://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake_disc_fitting_bedding_in

So first things that need checking: Have tyre sizes been checked to see if all 4 are exactly the same Have tyre pressures been checked and exactly what they should be - front and rear may be different Has the system then been reset through the dashboard and then the vehicle driven Have any fault codes been checked to see if they are stored If at this point you are still getting faults, we then need to start thinking of a possible wheel speed sensor or wheel bearing fault. How long after the reset does the light come back on - in terms of mileage and time.

So we are all due an update I believe, So first of all ive been flat out with my new job to the point ive hardly had any time to do any car work! But ill update the small amount that has been done! Calibrate areaview - this still is yet to be done, got to find time on a sunday before it gets dark to find an empty well lit car park to get this sorted hopefully! Check the coolant leak repair - So, since the coolant pipe clips have been replaced with the constant tension type, opposed to the single ear type, i have done around 500 miles without a coolant top up! This is now called a success! I mentioned an alarm fault before replacing the battery - since replacing the battery the alarm is yet to go off, so thats a very good sign! Ambient lighting fault - Earlier I complained of an ambient light fault, this is still yet to be investigated although there are no visible symptoms. So basically, we are all on track, but I will have to scan for fault codes next weekend to see if the alarm or ambient light faults have returned! Fingers crossed no. Next up, we finally got round to fitting the canton grills in the front doors, So I first took a cut out of the fabric from the old doors and laid it on top of the sportline doorcards. This was then all marked out with a marker pen. After this we drilled out the holes, these were all odd sizes, from 6mm up to 11mm. Then the centre hole was cut out, this was done by drilling lots of 1mm holes and then using a blade to join them all together. The fabric then overhung the holes a fair bit, so the solution to this was to heat up a step drill bit till it was red hot, put it in some grips and poke it into each hole to slightly melt the fabric and allow it to retract from the hole. Next the grill itself was fitted, and as much as I wanted the backside to look pretty and as OE as possible, it was near impossible to apply pressure to the grill, keep it aligned, keep it pressed in, and keep it face down for the glue to flow into the holes, so the glue spreading on the back was my lowest concern. The 2 part epoxy was allowed to dry for 48 hours to be sure it wouldnt crack or come loose. The speaker itself was then refitted - 3V0035411E (its the same as the speaker in the centre of the dashboard) A tip to note, ETKA shows the required screws for this as N10549603 which are 4mm wide, 16mm long with a Torx 20 head. This is close, but not close enough! The actual screws are 4mm wide, 8mm long with a Torx 20 head and couldnt find a part number for these so ended up buying some from my local hardware shop. So speakers, grill and doorcard refitted, now the final product:

These bolts need replacing. they are stretch bolts. If they aren’t replaced you’ll snap them getting the same level of torque they had previously. TTY bolts aren’t some government conspiracy as some may think, they are a legit thing used in safety critical applications to apply a lot of torque and prevent undoing. you could also fit the subframe alignment kit which stops any side to side moment of the entire frame itself.

You don’t need a memory saver of any kind. Not really a thing on modern cars at all. Replace battery start engine and turn wheel lock to lock slowly. restart engine clear fault codes done

I believe under the gear selector gaitor is a small yellow tab, push it down and it will allow the car into neutral. this sounds like an ignition barrel internals have failed to be honest

To start, do not change that control unit! Which is the entire heater. Have you ever had the unit serviced? If not, it is worth doing this and replacing the thermo sensor that is built into the unit. All parts are serviceable so it’s not a problem. The service kit includes all new heater core as there is a chance your core coolant channels are partially blocked. Have you got a full copy of the fault codes with the snap shot data that is collects, this will tell us pump rpm, temperature of coolant and of the webasto and such.

Do you still have the new broken one? And what part number and revision is it?

I mean, the garage that done the work should know how to diagnose a fault without having to result to online forums! But the EGR flow is monitored by the mass air flow sensor, first thing would be to see if the MAF value changes when the EGR valve is opened/closed. If it doesnt do anything you either have an air leak, the valve isnt moving or there is a blockage somewhere. That would be where I start.

Exactly that yes. The secondary latch, not the main bonnet release

So my thinking of the gold wire instead of solder is that it is laser welded on. The component is probably extremely sensitive to heat so just soldering a jumper wire would probably damage the component. that being said, it’s dead anyway so no harm in trying. ill take some 0.35mm wire, strip the insulation off it and remove a single strand from it and use this. the strands are 0.2mm each.