ApertureS

Hmm that doesnt help much more, youll need to plug it into ODIS or VCDS, either of these will give car specific information. Sorry we cant be of more help.

A year on, did you ever get that part replaced... its an entire front radiator holder, big part so not a cheap fix.

Ideally the wire should come through the trunk, and straight down the pillar and along the sill, avoids all aerials then. That being said theyd have to be causing a fair bit of EMF to cause interference.

Have you got a screenshot, its not a standard VW fault code so wont be much good to us. And what symptoms are you having?

2.0 tsi here. Done 10,000 miles in 6 months of motorway driving getting between 35-55mpg, average of about 42mpg id say. Recently doing about 10 miles a day of town driving at about 28mpg Hopefully these give you some figures to work with

Why have you created another thread for the same ongoing issue? Fitting a throttle body is not going to solve your problems, I’ve been through what checks need to be done to determine the wiring fault, even pulled wiring diagrams and told you exactly what to do, you’ll be in the exact same situation with this part. why not do the checks and work out exactly what is needed instead of just throwing £1000s of parts at it hoping it might fix it? throttle body’s need calibrating after fitting so depends if you have the software to do that anyway

If anyone wants any non camera boot handles - I sell them for £25 posted in the UK. Genuine used part, all fully working. Its a huge chunk cheaper than new and still cheaper than ebay!

This is when a dealer will struggle... they cant plug their computer in, run a test plan and be done with it. Give it back to the dealer and tell them, be stern with them. Find the fault, get it replaced under warranty, its up to them if they cant diagnose it and replace the wrong part and that should give them the motivation to get it right first time else they have to pay for the new parts that didnt fix it. Dont go to them with my friend/my mechanic said its X, they will claim you told them to replace X, if it doesnt cure it, youre liable for the costs fully then. Its real simple to diagnose if its the propshaft, wheel bearing or rear diff. Start removing components until the noise disapears. Remove the propshaft and disconnect the haldex, if its still there you know its diff or bearings. Then remove driveshafts, split them, put the inner and outer cups back into the diff and hubs, then if its still there if is a bearing. But it shouldnt come to this long method unless its a real pig to find.

They’ve probably fitted the incorrect screen then. the numbers will be the same as these are just glass spec, not part numbers or heater element details. if you open the bonnet and gently lift the corner of the trim under the wiper arm, you should see 2 plugs on the outer most edges, if they ain’t plugged in, you’ve got the wrong glass

@Gizmodid you wanna add this one to the tried and tested? High Beam Assist Stays On, Even After Ignition Cycle Go to 09 - Central Electronics Select Security access, code is 31347 Go to Adaptation Change the channel below to deactivated/nicht activ - ENG141650-ENG116639-Fernlicht_assistent-Fernlichtassistent Reset This will make it so if High Beam Assist is enabled, once you turn the car off and on again it will remember the last setting and re-enable it automatically.

Chances are your inspection will already be on 30k and oil service will be at 15k if it’s on fixed servicing?

Whichever setup it is, swarf will most likely go via all the components. if it’s a 3 pipe it will go hp pump return to tank to low pressure pump and filter or through hp to rail and back into the filter and injectors that way If it’s a 4 hose setup, fuel is still returned to the tank and there’s a very high chance it’s gonna carry metal filings with it, even if it’s a low chance, would you really wanna risk it? I was more talking in a general sense that fuel will and won’t get into small places but if you’re doing all the work correctly, you wouldn’t want to risk it for the cheaper easier stuff that might be unaffected

I promise you, its very easily done. Whereas a telehandler spreads the load fairly evenly and lifts the vehicle squarely into the air with no sideways movement, a trolley jack twists the vehicle as it lifts and easily will crush a sill. Seen it happened many a time, and even done it myself a few times.

Traffic sign recognition cannot be coded on newer 2Q0 cameras after facelift. lane assist can be added as long as the A5 camera is there though.

Will need checking for fault codes, could be there is an internal failure of the Bluetooth antenna or such. could be something more basic like a hard reset or complete wipe and reset will sort the issue personally I would start with a fault code scan to see if it finds anything

If you look at Haldex servicing (4x4 differential) on this forum you’ll see that anyone that cares for their car will do more than what the main dealer recommend, they recommend a oil change, really you should be doing oil change and the filter and or strainer. other than that, they are very reliable cars, what engine is it?

There’s a good chance you’ve blown the 2amp fuse by putting it in that spot, you’ll need to check it before trying, putting up to 10amp through that 2amp fuse has probably popped it.

Yes, i believe 1 is a 3amp fuse and 1 is the one that came out the car. You are gonna have to show us photos of what youre doing cause something isnt right. Youre not doing something correctly to loose power to either the camera or the radar fuse.

The issue with metal filings being in the fuel system is exactly that, they will be everywhere. If you just change the pump the shavings have every possibility and ive seen it happen on lots of cars where people dont want to pay the money - the shavings eat the new pump to pieces and it doesnt last long at all. The only true solution that will solve the problem 100% is a fuel tank removal and full clean, all the fuel lines cleaned out, fuel filter replaced, fuel pump - both replaced, fuel rail cleaned out, hp fuel lines cleaned out, fuel return valves cleaned/replaced, injectors cleaned/replaced. Basically it gets expensive, all these parts work with tiny tolerances so if there is actually a metal problem, it can easily damage parts. Do you have photos of this metal shavings, they can vary in colour and if they are magnetic or not will help narrow down location of cause.

You are removing the front assist fuse, putting the removed fuse in the fuse adapter, then putting the fuse adapter into the fusebox yes? So the adapter has 2 fuses in it yes. I think this is the part you might be forgetting!

There are 2 fuses in the adapter you are using right? and are you changing the orientation of the fuse adapter when you move it to another fuse?

I hope you put the bung back in and sealed the wires to it. Good chance you could end up with a wet foot well or a whistling noise through the open hole

Ouch, on your car I offer it for £300 fully fitted and i have them done in around 4/5 hours! Im only in north london

Shame you didnt come to me for the reverse camera retrofit, I check all my work over afterwards and no idea how theyve managed to scratch your car! How much did you pay out of interest?

The spindle will just continue to spin, it wont ever stop, you need to push the piston back in as you turn the spindle and hope it grabs... honestly youre 99% gonna need new calipers or them rebuilt at this point, seals have probably been pinched