ApertureS

So the red/back is the feed to all the components, once it goes through the components it comes out as all the different trigger wires back to the ECU. If one of these wires is the trigger wires it is still shorting out, just via a component. Ill check the diagram again for you and see what they are (if theyre on the F4 circuit) The trigger wires on this circuit are the following colours: (there could be more than 1 of a colour by the way) Brown & Yellow Blue & Violet Grey & Violet A brown wire Grey & Yellow That picture also looks more like something has rubbed through than stretched, gonna need to look a bit more in depth and before checking the loom the components need checking as i described.

it needs coding and also has component protection so cant just be fitted by anyone. Needs a legit copy of ODIS with security access.

You can remove the balancer shafts and replace entire setup with the early 1.9 tdi oil pump with a separate idler pulley, there’s lots of kits available but you just have to find the right one.

a 10A in itself wont be causing the issues no but the fact it was already 10A says its been replaced previously yes. Start with them bits ive suggested then come back to me. There are alternatives to keep blowing fuses during testing such as creating a 382 test lamp and putting that in the circuit or using a resetable fuse

What youve unplugged is an auxilary water pump and that is not on this same circuit. You need to be looking at the 4 sensors i have listed above (ignore adblue then). I would unplug the sensors 1 by one and see what happens, you will get other faults in doing so Coolant solenoid - car will begin to overheat if driven really hard/fast over temp so dont go too far Oil control - should default to a safe position but make sure you dont get an oil no pressure warning N75 boost valve - you will get a lack of power when unplugged oil level sensor - you may get a eml/level sensor fault. Try each of these and when you unplug them also check the plug for oil as there should be any inside. Also your engine is leaking a lot of oil! probably rocker cover gasket. EDIT: In the petrol engines its a 10A fuse, in the 1.6 and 2.0 TDI it is a 7.5A fuse.

All im basing it off is not a UK thing but i believe in america an item such as a component on a car - because of the high cost must last a 'lifetime' which they define as 100,000 miles so in essence they legally in certain states must last 100,000 miles which is what they deem the life of that car. (although they will go for much longer we all know) This is what i was told quite a few years back but ill try and find something to back it up.

Okay so ive done some research for you and this is what were working with Fuse SB4 is a 7.5A fuse which is a black with red trace wire it then goes through the multiplugs to the engine in either 3 or 4 places depending if you have adblue. It supplies 12V to 4/5 components and those are Adblue relay J963 - Only applicable if you have adblue Coolant control valve N489 Oil Control valve N428 Boost Control valve N75 Oil level sensor G266 So out of possible causes there are 2 faults you could be looking at: - A failed one of these components causing a dead short and blowing the fuse - A failed wire/insulation shorting out causing a dead short and blowing the fuse To find the fault first were gonna need to know, how often is it blowing the fuse, is it instantly or not? A few more details for you of locations N489 - on top of the water pump and controls the shroud- red plug N428 - oil control valve is behind the AC compressor on the front of the block N75 - on the bulkhead behind the turbo intake pipe with a few rubber hoses going into it G266 - in the bottom of the sump You have 3 components there in some kind of fluid and 1 with a large coil that was known to fail. I would first be disconnecting the N489, N428 and G266 and checking for oil/coolant in the plug causing a short. If you have a multimeter you can check the resistance of the N75, N428 and N489 valves to see if they are short circuit, connect your multimeter and tap the components to see if the resistance changes much If you want to find the fault yourself you will need a multimeter or if you make a test lamp at home with a 382/501 bulb I could also teach you this method.

Ive seen your post of facebook about this too, im gonna ping you over a wiring diagram shortly and help you get to the bottom of it once and for all. Where are you based? @sapf0 do you know your engine code? 2.0 TDI i assume?

This is true, but the difference it makes it absolutely tiny that you wont notice it ever.

Ive ordered a genuine sensor aerial and im gonna mount that instead of an aliexpress special, then i will try your coding when it turns up and let you know. Thanks!!!!

much appreciated, what year and hatch/estate? thanks

Just my input here but im pretty sure legally 'lifetime' with a car is 100,000 miles. At least this is what is roughly said to be a lifetime component such as BMW ZF gearbox oil and a few VW bits are the same. Ford had a 'lifetime' wet belt setup and that turned into the worst thing ever. For my own peace of mind id be doing the belt at least at 100,000 miles.

There is a lot of information on Haldex servicing as its the been the same for the last 10 years or so - at the least make sure it has been done when it should! I think its either every 20 or 30k. This involves just an oil change in the haldex. But really you want the oil, filter and strainer done because they are prone to failure/blocking up. Other than that, the 4x4 system is decent.

Sport suspension simply means ‘slightly lower’ than standard right height. At the end of the day a Superb is not a race car, it’s a family wagon that does well handling for the size of it

Defiantly wouldn’t say don’t get it. Every car will have it’s inherent issues no matter what. These have very few in the scheme of things I drive a Skoda superb and I help maintain a fleet off 100s of MQB platform cars and they are all fairly good going with very few issues between them.

Hi there, I have already got someone elses adaptations and i dont believe these need a dataset at all. Ive uploaded the correct adaptations and still no luck. EDIT: Checked and the Kessy module 05/B7 doesnt need paramterization/datasets so its all in the admap and coding.

Then I doubt it’s leaking into any fuel pressure regulator which is located on the top side of the engine. Something isn’t adding up here

This was a known issue on the pd engines generally caused by the balance shafts and oil pump hex key rounding off, could be easily sorted before failure by replacing with the 100mm hex key. but to answer your question on the new series of tdi engines 1.6/2.0, I don’t believe I’ve heard of one having the same kind of failure points. You’ll much more likely be looking at a water pump shroud (which acts as a thermostat) seizing before the water pump and timing belt are due.

I’m not sure what he means by a sump leak causing a fuel regulator fault, do you have any photos of this so called leak and what it’s leaking into?

Quite an old thread to bump but ive got all my setup fitted. Got the option in the infotainment, module shows up as a slave of kessy as it should. Found a set of adaptations from a standard superb that had it and updated all the values then ran the output test for a few minutes to enable it. Still no good, left with the fault code that wont clear "221445 - Sensor for rear lid/hatch opening - No calibration/Basic settings" Anyone either got their admap of the kessy module or any tips?

on the plus side, that means there is not much going on in your roof to cause it. Have you tried applying gentle pressure to see if you can pinpoint the area and stop the rattle? might help us narrow it down

Have you got a sunroof? Could be a loose bolt or the water drains rattling

Just a variation of trim clips is what they’re called. pop rivets are the compressing pins that are one time use. That being said, you can get plastic pop rivets that work exactly the same as metal ones now.

I’m assuming this is for a taxi vehicle test? you might find it is written on the glass itself like some windscreens? but a private hire test should pass the glass test unless they can prove it should not by either using a tool to check or if it’s written on the glass. Your word is not proof for the tester to pass/fail it. That being said if it’s not for this, any decent window tinting company should have test equipment for making sure the work they do is legal.

If you’re talking about the bumper itself, no, the plastic rivets are fully reusable, just pop them back out before putting them in the hole, then push home till flush with the outer plastic.