Former

Like many owners, particularly of later / latest models, as the engine started and the lights seemed bright enough you missed the driver's warning sign of low battery with the start/stop being inoperative, that was the time to charge the battery, preferably with an appropriate charger maintainer following the instructions in the Owner's Manual and for the charger. Unfortunately by the time you got the 'low battery' warning the battery had had too much use, abuse and neglect for your C-Tek to recover it. Once a battery gets too low it never fully recovers even if it continues to work and carry on. On the plus side you seemed to have missed the other possible unexpected issues, error codes, warning lights and messages that other have reported with continued use of the car with a battery in poor state of charge / health. These modern cars have a lot of convenience high consumption electrical items and lots of computers and programs that only run on 5v so you don't want your battery too low for them. The higher heat of the summer effects the battery as well as the cold of winter so battery charging isn't just about winter car/battery use, or lack of use. 5k-miles per year is low mileage meaning the car's alternator may not be able to keep up with the car's and battery's use - the answer is preventative charges, in this case certainly with an appropriate charger maintainer or having the maintainer on the battery when the car is not in use for a while. If you want your new battery to last longer then you can help it with preventative charges. My mate has a couple of identical expensive C-Tek chargers and they gave different performance to each other when used on his two vehicles and yours is the second instance just recently where I've read of a C-Tek hasn't recovered the battery but then a cheap "smart" charger might have also failed, as said these "smart" chargers ain't that smart. From the 2020/07 Owner's Manual. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

ETA: Plantse posted whilst I was still typing my post, I've not altered my post (other than typo editing) I fitted Pagid to front and rear of my wife's 2015 MK3 SE 1.2 TSI 90 and they were and are fine - but take little notice of of past reputations that may or may not still be deserved, like German engineering being necessarily high quality, that was last century. Brembo were of internment quality a few years back. Pagid are one of TMD Friction's brands along with Textar, Mintex, Don, Cobreq and Bendix. Then there's our local family brake business, now a bit bigger, EBC favoured by many. Despite being local I've never used their products but I did used to know someone that used to work for Pagid Performance Braking a couple of decades. I think it's Carlston and others that like ATE, again I've never used them. Anyone my age would probably have used Mintex over the decades. Do bear in mind the tyres are also important to the braking system (and steering and suspension) they need to be in good condition regardless of tread depth left on them or age. Clean and lubricate the other brake parts as required when changing and us new fittings where required (Pagid rear pads included screws). Changing the pads and discs on my wife's 2015 MK3 SE 1.2 TSI 90 were the easiest brake changes I've done in my limited experience of doing such, so I done posts with notes for those that are interested. 'front brake pads and discs fitting tips' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499752-front-brake-pads-and-discs-fitting-tips 'Changing rear brake discs and pads, notes and tips' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/517740-changing-rear-brake-discs-and-pads-notes-and-tips HTH.

A case of fat finger, ****-eyed, not wearing glasses. All too new for me, I had to think if 72 was 2023, I only know my alphabet by going through suffix plate years, then only really starting at 1970 ('J') (Mk2 into Mk3 Cortina IIRC) as even I'm not that old (but Rooted and rum4mo would know pre-reg). 😁 I have done a bit of research on council kept and issued plates for "historic" (old) cars and it wasn't until the 1990s that I learnt about the part year (I knew up to 'h' in the alphabet !) Perhaps I should have used this as my eye chart.

Yes unfortunately when you put you didn't think it was the correct key, knowing your story a bit, I thought "par for the course" (not that I play golf) but was just hoping it was just a case of the lock never have been used and gritted up a bit. Sorry I think you might have to get the bonnet up (to get the battery out) I think there were some posts on this but can't remember how it might be done, or about alarm, a Search might find them, I can't even remember for sure if it was in this Fabia Mk3 forum or another model forum on here. ETA: Sorry, my wife's Fabia is away now until at least the middle of this month so I can't go and look for you. Someone else here might know or remember. At least you have the time not to rush this or need to get a locksmith or breakdown service (unless you want to). Let us know how you get on.

Seeing rum4mo reminds me, as it's an EFB particularly you could disconnect the battery management connector at the battery negative terminal and not worry about 'coding' or the system interfering with stuff, change the battery with a battery charger on or off the car without needing to tell it what you're doing. A minor freedom from one of the VW dictates and take full responsibility and control of the battery charging by driving or charger on or off the car. Imagine that rum4mo, or remember it, the memory is fading for me and it's not be two-years since I only really thought about the battery after 10 years of use and parked up no-use. My wife got a hire car delivered today, just our luck it's a VW product, 1.0 3cylinder SEAT, 75 plate 10k-miles, but the driver had checked the oil and topped it up (and had really done it before delivery and not just saying so). It's a VW SEAT so the coolant (pink, called lilac G12evo by VW of course) has to be checked, warmish engine, warm day and it's a nat's below the MIN line on level ground, something to photo and monitor before journeys outside of limping home distance. Drove the car round the block to repark it and at putting the handbrake on I thought I'd best reassign a few of the radio presets for the boss, only a few minutes in and the engine restarts. Oh yes, I thought. Multimeter out, yeap, battery charger out and connected up. Only a small battery, about 2/3rds of the tray space but the figures were slow to rise, might take more than the 6 hours available. On check 5+ hours later charger has "FUL". I'm sure it'd had lasted the next 4 days of 2-mile journeys but the slightest whiff of a warning light or message of any sort and I'll get a distressed phone call and I'm on 4-mile walk with a carrier bag of tools and little chance of even a mug of tea until everything is fully resolved and reassurances accepted, like on the coldest day of last year when the VWSkoda remote decided to fail. I did stop on the way back to help the (newer) ali XJ) Jag driver I'd seen on my way there waiting for Breakdown service, long story short - battery. He thought he could get home despite knowing the battery was down on his way into work the night before. B i g battery, IIRC 1.2v, lowest I've seen. I checked my multimeter against one of the brand new Duracell button batteries I'd bought in case the cold had got to the electronics but no that showed the expected 3.dot, dot. He tells me he was showing his boss the car at 5 am with the heated seats on, how he made it as far as he had surprised me. At least it was well passed rush hour by then and they might really only be another hour-or- so before they got to him and the Jag could be rescued from the high kerb on the now not so busy road I'd have kept the Jag four wheels on tarmac with a kerb that high with risks of scratches and dents.

20 years ago we were on one of our multi-marque "classics" and sportscars club's weekend tours away in Suffolk, England, an area quite rural and near and on the the east coast where things are laidback and people go to retire. The villages had 20mph (32kph) limits which was fine but new (-ish?) to us at the time but also the roads between them were down to 40mph (64kph), instead of 60mph (96kph), which was unusual. Even on the Saturday (or any other day I guess) we encountered elderly local "Sunday drivers" which was fine. I couldn't get by one and we dutifully followed at below 40mph (64kph) on the road between villages, which was fine. When we got to the villages we obviously slowed (even more) to 20mph (32kph) to watch the old couple sail on through the village at their below 40mph but well above 20mph. By the time we got out of the village having stuck to the speed limit the elderly couple were well ahead and by the time we caught up nowhere to overtake and back into a village, us at 20mph them at below 40mph . . . not so fine. 🙂 This Saturday we ventured over the county boundary into the posh area of North Oxfordshire, back roads so they wouldn't notice us, and the cut across country road was now limited to 50 mph (80kph) and all villages 20mph (32kph), last time were on that road not too many years back it was at National Speed Limit (single-lane) 60mph (96kph) and 30mph (48kph). Must be all these really heavy and large (even "small") modern cars with overpowered engines and driver aids, robbing drivers of driving abilities and common sense that need restricting. 😁

My mate's weren't ES32 (IIRC). 185/60 r15 is a nominal 4.4" (112mm) sidewall rubber and air (pneumatic) (partial) cushioning and shock absorbing 215/45 r16 is a nominal 3.8" (97mm) 215/40 r17 is a nominal 3.4" (86mm). If it wasn't for decades of wheel fashion the Fabia would be on a 13" or 14" wheel, 70 or 65 would be low profile tyre. Your car you decide what fashion you want but do consider the state of the roads you drive on and again whilst there will be a difference in handling of a 215 to 1875 grip is about the design, build and compound of the tyre. A good set of 185 driven well will out perform in feel (remote though it is in a modern car) an average set of 215 but if it's fashion looks then you need to "fill the arches" with big wide wheel and skinny tyre your money, your choice, just remember fashion often has little to do with being comfortable or practical. Others will be able to help on s/h wheels, there might be some advertised on this site (but I've not looked). Let us know how you get on.

Thanks for your replies. To save you reading all below if you don't want to, short(er) answer - get a new replacement battery and do preventative recharges when required with the next battery and it should give less hassle and last longer. For 'coding' I got my battery 'coded' by a Briskoda form member for a beer-token, you could look and see if anyone local to you is able to help you out, otherwise it makes sense to get the battery from Halfords and have them code it correctly, it only needs one digit change to the "serial" number to say the battery is new, the correct type of battery recorded (EFB or AGM "fleece") and correct Ah, nothing more. Be careful about Halfords with 'coding' as some on here have put they have been told the batteries don't need 'coding' at some Halfords by some Halfords employees, I don't know only repeating what they put. Example only.- See here for members with VCDS and other scan tools/apps. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Let us know how you get on. Longer stuff.- 6a isn't high but 4 or 2 would be better, longer, lower slower is the trick - but it sounds like you either need to trick that expensive "smart" charger or the battery has been flogged too much and too often. My neighbour had TopDon scanner with battery facility (at extra cost), like all computer programs they're not always right and reliable and cover all cars and batteries but you will know if yours does and is up to date with, er updates. If you have confirmed the testing equipment with other good reliable and tested testing equipment fair enough. Multimeter probes on the battery posts about 24hours after battery was disconnected from charging should let you know drop and state of battery. By rescued I meant a setting on the battery charger (or revived not necessarily using a "smart" (they ain't) charger. If the battery is truly sealed then you can't lift the plugs off to see the state of the plates and "water" level before (or after) to see if it's all worth the effort and how much more life you might get out of the battery if you need or want to. Paul I don't think I know you sometimes have to and can trick modern and "smart" chargers to charge a battery they deem as "replace", some won't try recharging if the battery to them is 6v, 7.2v, 7.3v and possibly otherv. I don't know for sure if I can trick the (not-so) "clever" (VW) Skoda battery programming so as to fit an exact (or near enough Ah) new replacement battery and have the program full working without 'coding' but as some posters have not bothered with 'coding' at all (on that sort of age Skoda) and reported no problems it'd not be too much of a loss. Now whether those batteries will not last as long as if they had been 'coded' I can't say as it's not me. Nothing wrong with expensive fancy chargers but I have manged with more basic chargers over decades and still and have seen and heard of £15 Lidl "smart" chargers doing good work and for a number of years with one of my neighbours, on the other side a mate has two identical expensive C-tek charges and they operate slightly differently showing slightly different on their lights and time of charge when used on the same two vehicles. Same as with scan tools, very good to have but the basics, without or without other tools, are very often need to be used to confirm and/or progress the resolve.

Gorilla is the only "super glue" I've found that sticks anything and not just my fingers but I've no idea of how it is with metal threads, thing is if it sticks well you might have to ruin the nut and possibly metal/rubber washers to get the nut off again and still might have a bit of the nut stuck to the motor threads.

Hi Welcome, for this and lots of other useful information on your car and to save you hassle and expense on unnecessary garage repairs read the Owner's Manual and then refer to it when required. ETA: foglight bulb is on p189 in my wife's car's manual If you've not been given the paper printed copy you can get a free VWSkoda pdf version from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models No disrespect to you but before you go changing the bulb have you checked it is the bulb and not something else, have you operated the switch as required (see Owner's Manual), could it be another part or system at fault. A tip, don't let the battery get too low in charge otherwise the VW computer programs will make you pay for that mistake, even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning lights or messages (yet) the battery could be too low for the computers and cause all sorts of unexpected problems and then unexpected warnings. Unless you know the battery is recent (and 'coded' in correctly best you have an appropriate battery charger maintainer and consider doing preventative chargers with it. Good luck, let us know how you get on. Also, Update portal. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Recalls (well the ones VWSkoda have admitted to). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns

I saw the "Trafigura agrees terms to acquire Greenery’s European business" in the Greenergy history page but had no clue about who they are. - https://www.greenergy.com/our-history [Greenergy] - "Supplying around a quarter of the UK’s road fuels, Greenergy is also a leading European manufacturer of biodiesel from wastes, operating plants in the UK and the Netherlands." Yeap, it's grown. AS for what the country or people of the country own don't get me started, we don't even own the rain that falls from the sky and don't get me started on when and why that started . . . . still, look on the bright side, we'll be dead soon so none of it matters to us old-farts. 😁

Good point, I know generally they're not for plastic threads but I don't know if they would really do any harm to the rubber washers in this instance as the rubber is not holding fluids in under pressure and just holding out ow pressure external rain or wash water. You could perhaps clean off any excess or make sure none gets on or to the rubber washes by applying the threadlock only at a certain point of threads on the shaft cover arm threads, or coat the rubber washers in silicone grease at the possible threadlock excess contact area. If you are really worried or need to know then best to contact the manufacturer of the threadlock for its suitability against rubber as a non-binding or sealing agent. ETA: Personally I'd not give it a second thought.

Thanks I saw that bit, it was the Tesco bit I was interested in as I think a good while back I looked before, but not too much, and couldn't see if Tesco were still involved but saw how much the Greenergy had grown. If I don't ask straight away I forget again, it's of no real importance to me just curious, while I remember. Cheers.

An old video but Scotty as straight talking as ever. My old neighbour used to tell me about having to de-carbonise old engines regularly because the oils and petrols weren't so good a long time back, and Scotty in another video on cars not having engine oil filters and "Pur-O-Lator" (pure oil later) oil filter being invented (in 1922/3, Purolator now part of Mann-Hummel, a twist to the usual take-over story). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIycEyNci1o

I've probably asked you this before and you've given me the answer but I've forgot - do Tesco still part own or have a stake in Greenergy as in the back of my mind was Greenergy had outgrown the likes of Tesco (they've certainly grown)?

I'm a fan of Millers Oils products and have used a couple of their petrol additives for my old British over-priced and over-valued car called a "classic". I used them as an experiment against using Tesco Monmentum99 or Shell V-Power and as it worked out a few pence per litre cheaper and the higher octane fuels with greater cleaning additives packages weren't always available where I was driving the car. I've no idea if, or how much, they help with mpg as I didn't check or can't remember now. As with the the higher octane fuels with greater cleaning additives packages I would use it on a tankful both pre and post services and MoTs. Downsides farting about at the petrol pump, 1ml per litre, keeping the bottle upright for not overfilling the measuring section (less of an issue when your fuel tank and filler pipe hold more than 6 gallons), keeping the product away from heat (solar gain inside a car boot) the two year life (particularly if you don't notice it's already a year into that when you bought it, but again with bigger tanks and higher mileage use this would be less of an issue. Millers Petrol Power ECOMAX – Multi-Shot - (other makes and suppliers are available) "FEATURES AND BENEFITS Increases octane rating of unleaded fuel by up to 2 numbers resulting in increased power and MPG. Enhanced detergency package for quicker clean up and prolonged petrol injector cleanliness. Improved inlet manifold and valve cleanliness condition. Maintains catalyst efficiency and helps to invigorate catalytic convertors. Improved combustion and engine cleanliness drastically reduces emissions of hydrocarbon (HC), carbon monoxide (CO) and nitrous oxide (NOx). Protects the fuel system from E5/E10 ethanol corrosion." "PRODUCT INFORMATION A fuel treatment and detergent package that adds up to 2 octane numbers (RON) to unleaded fuel. Ideal for use as a pre-MOT test clean-up treatment. 1 x 500ml bottle treats: 500 Litres (10 x 50L tanks) of unleaded fuel". https://www.millersoils.co.uk/products/petrol-power-ecomax-2/ TDS - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/6205-Petrol-Power-Ecomax-Multi-Shot-4.pdf

Really sorry I missed your post until now, thanks for putting up a photo. That looks like it would be very handy to have, Nice tool, did you make it?

Only thing I can think of is have you looked in (or asked) in the 'Styling and Car Care' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/8-styling-and-car-care/ Seat covers look thin in my wife's 2015 SE (hatch) but they're holding up, other than they stain easily, I've been promising to clean them for about 3 years but it takes a nice sunny dry day to do the interior properly and I'm ben too short of life for a good number of years to be farting about that much on a car, particularly on a pleasant day. Good luck.

Paul, forgive all the questions but I don't know what you know and what you actually did with charging and testing. What is the amperage of your Optimate? Is it a "smart" charger and maintainer suitable for stop/start batteries? Did you get the battery to full on the charger? How long did it take to charge the battery (at what amperage of charger? Did you read and follow the instructions for charging on the car in the Owner's Manual and charger instructions? Were the battery terminals clamps tight and clean, same for main cables and connections (clean, secure and protected)? What battery tester do you have and did you test whilst on the car? Do you have a reasonable multimeter? The battery can be in a low state of charge and the engine still starts and the light seem bright enough and as yet no warning lights or messages, which is why the battery often gets flogged more. Up to you if you want replace it, or you can try to recover it and perhaps get more useful life out of if. often it just takes time and patience or perhaps a rescue setting on the charger. The battery is one of the most oversold car parts but premature replacement suits some people better but by what you've put so far you might be one of the ones to revive the existing battery and learn how to easily keep it going for longer and stop it happening to the next battery. Halfords tend to be a bit expensive for batteries and many find they can get a better battery at lower price from elsewhere (often net retailer and I don't mean Amazon). Big debate about the need for 'coding' if you are keeping the same type of battery (EFB) and just about the same Ah (ignore the out-of-date VW BEM serial number and battery manufacturer three-letter code that was for VW's benefit anyway). I now go with best to 'code' (no panic about instantly at installation of new battery) but I also have an idea about how to perhaps fool the "clever" VWSkoda computer program just with the use of a charger.

Yes tyres are also about fashion and marketing so "last season's fashion" (previous models) might be at lower prices than the latest stuff but still as good as they were and possibly better than their replacements. And many of the unknown or less marketed or popular brands in one country might be very well know in another country. Seemingly less prestigious brands are owned by the more "prestige" brands and companies anyway as with a lot of purchases higher cost doesn't always mean better but can also possibly be good value depending on your wants and needs - other side less expensive and well known tyres may be great performance and value. "Dry rot" gets many of the tyres before tread wear - example those very disappointing Avon ZT7 for 26 months and 14K-miles use we might just as well bought some really grippy tyres and had a bit of fun with them. BTW the Avon Zt7 started at 6.5mm tread depth new, not all (many now? I've not looked ) start at 8mm tread depth new as many assume without checking, boy the moaning when those that didn't check before buying gave in reviews. 😄 Also BTW best tyres I've had have been Yokos, not BluEarth but my mate has some, not on a Fabia, and said how good they were (I don't which model numbers BuEarth) but he drives in a spirited enough way to find out about grip.

Just to let you know the width over such small changes will have nothing to do with grip as opposed to different model. or make and model, of tyre and its design, build and compounds. As already put wet grip is more important than dry particularly if you live in England where it rains and between being dry. If you want really good grip normally it will mean shorter tread life at least, a lot less miles before they need changing over harder wearing tyres. Which Yoko BluEarths did you have, BluEarth is like putting Fabia, they vary, the sidewall of the tyre not only gives the size but load (and if XL) and speed rating and date of manufacture. My wife's 2015 1.2 TSI SE came with Nexen N blue, definitely not for grip but Mk3 SE are hardy sports set up or suspension anyway. Distress purchase next and went to Nexen N Blue HD Plus, perhaps better but not great grip or handling. On to Avon ZT7, smoother and quieter but very disappointing as two tyres out of four got concerning radial cracking on the inside where you don't see it, in 26 months and only 14k-miles use had to replace them. Swapped those for two Goodyear Efficient Grip Performance, probably the best so far but we don't drive the Fabia for grip or handling really and I've never been one for much more than soft braking and always take it a lot steadier in other than dry conditions. All tyres were/are standard size of 185/60 R15 (84 H). I'd prefer 14" wheels and tyres but never had any issues with kerbing with any of the tyres, other than driver error. I suggest taking all tyre labels results for grip in with fuel efficiency and wet grip with a shovel of salt I've had tyres with poorer rating outperform those with better markings. Age, use, abuse, neglect and tyre pressures (nothing to do with wot the 'puter screen sez) has a lot to do with how a tyre might perform as well as different driving styles and techniques, the driver's previous experience and expectations, how the car is used and loaded - that's why tyre reviews for the same tyre of the same size can vary even on the same model of car. Tyres are a often overlooked and under considered complex component, a big and important part of the braking, steering and suspension systems contributing to the handling, road holding comfort and noise of the car, expected to perform in various varying conditions and circumstances. So better to buy better than seemingly less expensive , depending on your wants and needs.

Depends where you look as to what answer you get, the internet always offers a choice of answers (note I have not double/treble-checked this and it is copyright 2019). - https://www.fcai.com.au/environment/can-my-vehicle-operate-on-ethanol-blend-petrol Most of the stuff about ethanol causing trouble with rubber and stuff in UK comes from old-farts not running, their over-priced, over-valued old cars called "classics" or not running them enough and having rubber parts on the car as old as them. I can say that as I was an old-fart running various over-priced, over-valued old cars called "classics" for 30+ years difference was I actually ran the cars, as dailies, work, commute, holidays, club tours, etc. so I saw and heard all the ethanol doom stories. Was it about 30 years ago the same thing with unleaded petrol ruining the engines, probably from the same old-farts but they were 30 years younger and they probably had some of the exact same "classic" cars when moaning about the ethanol that didn't get ruined by the unleaded. Going back the last few year to about 20 years ago the problem was the introduction of E5 and E10 but the ****-poor Chinese rubbish rubber imperial fuel hose and in other "classic" car parts. Each to their own, but why bother having a VRS petrol or diesel model and not going for the better petrol and diesel fuels (yes I do know why some do it but not so many)..

I thought the plastic cup was rubber, if it's shaped and angled it might be to allow for angle of metal door panel skin, if you have this fitted check you have it at the correct angle/orientation as that may give you more exposed threads on the motor shaft. Sorry I put Tipex wrong, it should be Tipp-Ex, white correction fluid for paper forms and the like, if you have ever been in an office a few years back you would probably have seen it, not so common now and if you don't have a bottle of the fluid that hasn't dried out forget it. Also used to use it to highlight timing marks, position of nuts and bolts when tightened, it lasted long enough for reassurance and sometimes a very long time on things like CB points distributors. Little bottle with brush or foam applicator so easier to get in spaces, bright white so stood out and easy to see. - https://www.viking-direct.co.uk/en/p/4900

Again, you posted as I was typing the first bit of this post (my posts are often (one-finger) typed in stages whilst not multi-tasking) . Prevention, well perhaps partial at least, is better than needing a cure, as I've put above try to have things as (reasonably) clean as possible to help keep things as (reasonably) clean as possible for as long as possible, this will also give you better performance which includes relative good fuel consumption. (after seeing your post now). Not sure why you have a VRS model but that's your business, I was going to put about V8s and fuel consumption but won't now given your concern with the Octavia's consumption. 😆 I'm with you on toll roads though I have used them, and been persuaded (told) to use them by my boss. 😉 Given the low speeds unless you need lugging power wouldn't a smaller more economical engine be better (don't you get the smaller and IMO better Japanese engines and cars there any more (or Chinese for the coal). For the city the stop/start might be useful for fuel consumption and emissions and perhaps autobox and most of the other intrusive driver "aids", get the car's computers programs working for you as they'll have you working for them, particularly if you upset them (by letting the battery get too low, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning messages or light yet) the heat much above 20c can be literally draining on the battery. For economy and spirited/"fast" driving, wear and tear on the car's parts, components and systems it's a lot about the driver's driving technique and style (I say this as a not particularly good driver). One of the best tuning aids for the car after or possibly before, full and proper servicing, maintenance and repair of the whole car is driver training and it can be transferred to other cars at no cost or loss. That goes that goes against the macho minds over here too. 😆 I used to see that some in Aus ran their tyres at higher pressures than we do here and what is recommended in the Owner's Manuals, and I've no idea of how they interpreted when the tyres were "cold" but tyres pressures can have an influence on fuel consumption as well of course carrying unnecessary weight, make them walk, 😁 tools, junk, or unnecessary items on the car that increase drag, having lots of electrical items running. Having done a lot of the economical driving and mostly urban city driving you then need to give the car blow-out runs (and a bit more for VRS types), particularly if it's diesel or petrol with GPF negating at least some of the fuel consumption driving. I once done a 200+ mile (320+ km) drive with a 100 m section at 50mpg (5.65 l/100km) when testing engine and carbs set up and another section when my mate joined us at 25mpg (11.3 l/100km), first at well below legal motorway speed limit and second normal motorway speed, you can have it both ways but not at the same time. 🙂

Why not remove the Teflon tape, clean motor shaft cover and nut threads and generous use of threadlock, the rubber washers are taking up small movements so the fitting doesn't need to be "murder tight" as long as the nut remains secure in its position. Thefeliciahacker is the engineer here but I would guess the hole is bigger with washers and nut clamping as - German engineering is as we (but probably not Thefeliciahacker) might say here "not all it's cracked up to be" (exaggerated or misplaced praise, not as good as reputation makes out it is) so you have to allow for variances of fittings and speed and ease of factory assembly exact hole size may cause metal to metal wear exact hole size may cause vibration which would annoy driver and passengers from the door skin panel and later wear of motor shaft cover and/or door skin and operation of wiper.