Former

I take the (IIRC self-submitted) tyre label markings with a god measure of salt. When the tyre labelling first started the Yoko a-drives got lower scores than a couple of other tyres I used on the same car but in reality the Yoko a-drives used on the car were far better than the marking and far better than the other tyres I tried on the same car which had higher label scores. Perhaps the make up of the Yoko a-drives had changed and were not as good by the time the tyre labelling came into force, I don't know as very unfortunately for me they stopped doing the a-drives in the tyre size I needed. I knew the a-drives were good when I used them on the car but didn't realise how good until I used the other tyres (with higher label scores). I am like you I accept guides but only as guides and have enough driving experience to know the differences that suit me and my style of driving to any particular car. As I put I have no experience of the Yoko A539 let alone what might be the latest version of it, the F for fuel economy might suggest grip and wet grip C suggest they're better in the dry - but I have no real idea. IIRC I took Yokos off my then brand new MX-5 Mk2 1.6 because they gripped too well in the dry (I always take it easier in the wet anyway and you'd certainly want to in a (rear-wheel drive) Mk1 and Mk2 MX-5 (I've no idea about later models) so I changed them despite the loads of tread left on the set of four (I used to be able to afford such things then as the cars needed to be fun) to tyres with very good wet grip and not as good as the Yokos dry grip (a Rainex model IIRC). I also had steel wheels on that car, the salesman said it was the only MX-5 on steel wheels he'd even seen leave or come into the Dealership.

Hopefully now you can understand why. Your very narrow approach doesn't always work but carry on with it for the times it does or you just want to but don't keep trolling me please. As with other times you have contributed nothing positive to this thread. You have just trolled me. You did not give any comment (or instant answer) to the video the OP put up. You just trolled me for a second time in this thread. You answer threads in your way and leave me to do the same, please stop continuously trolling me especially when you aren't going to add anything else to the thread. You have a narrow view to the threads I have a much wider, both can be right or wrong or more or less appropriate to any threads or posts and you, I and others can choose to accept or ignore any posts or things in the posts, so please stop trolling me. I don't know how much clearer I can make things to you.

This may be a sign that the (whole) car hasn't been fully and properly serviced in a timely manner as brake fluid changes were/are IIRC at 3-years old then every 2 years after but some owners prefer to test for moisture (water) content and change relying on the testing machine which for some are very cheap Chinese made stuff that may or may not be reliable or others owners simply don't bother even though brakes are THE most important thing on a car. Exhaust clamp renewed may get rid of some or all of the sound on the video. I agree that I'd get a 2nd opinion on the wishbones, the car needs to be on a lift with the car's weight fully on the wheels and even then it might get tested to an MoT standard which is a minimum statutory standard and doesn't mean things are good or you won't have noises from there or other places. From what I've read here and personal experience with my wife's 2016 Fabia Mk3s seem to have a noises (knocks, squeaks, rattles) from under the car mainly noticeable when going down potholes or over speed humps. Some of these noises never seem to get tracked down despite the owners having lots of work done over a period of time. That is not to say you have or haven't got issues with your wishbones. The important things on a car are brakes (always number 1) steering and suspension (all three include tyres, then safety electrics like wipers, lights, horn, etc. (see and be seen) then things like the engine. If you want to and if there is someone on the list that can help (often for free or beer-tokens) you could ask if they could plug in their scan tool and give you a report from the car's computers and if wanted delete any stored error codes after recording the report to see if any return. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) Final note - do not wait for dash board warning lights, by the time some of them come on you have already left it too late, as much as possible prevent these warnings from appearing by reading the Owner's Manual and carrying out, as required, servicing, maintenance and repairs to the car as a whole and not just the engine. Good luck, let us knw how you are getting on.

Any thoughts about the noise on the video?

I'm from a family that didn't own or drive cars (or have more than day trips for holidays. The following videos are for general help and can be viewed, if you want to view them, at your leisure. This video covers how to check your tyre tread depth without a tyre tread depth gauge. - Check Tread Depth of Tyre: Wear Markers, Gauge, 20p (EASY!) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aB1D7iJOgE0 And general tips and simple advice on Fabia Mk3 videos. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5

@Zak13 did you follow up on the previous suggestions from other posters earlier and done the visual checks I suggested and the usual driver's checks like checking level and colour of brake fluid, level and colour of coolant, engine oil level, etc., etc.? Plenty (less than others with VWSkoda) info in the car's Owner's Manual, if you don't have the paper printed copy here's a link to freely available pdf download from Skoda. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models You can check for any Recalls (that VWSkoda have admitted to) here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And some 'Updates' here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ If it's the Halfords 10 Point Winter Car Check you can do all, or perhaps almost all, of that yourself and you should be doing it as the owner/driver anyway, it's all very easy. If you need any help or advice on any of it you only need to ask, no one was born knowing, there are no silly questions only silly not to ask them. "What's Included Headlight & brake light check Wiper blade condition check Battery health check Tyre depth check Tyre inflation check & top up Windscreen chip check MOT due date reminder (UK only) Oil level check Screen wash top up AdBlue & coolant check" - https://www.halfords.com/car-repairs/car-checks/full-car-check-315006.html

I'm not sure that will help but perhaps I'm wrong. Wait a while for more *and better replies. * = sorry I missed Rooted's reply. In itself not a lot more, and I forget what extra you get in a Dealership, do you have the invoices for the services which should include details like parts replaced, materials and work done. This doesn't solve your knocking issue directly at least but will help with your ownership and understanding of the car. Do you have any warranty with the car you can use or call back on the seller?

Sorry but you have totally misunderstood my question, I asked what damage will be done to what structure(s) / component(s) / part(s) in layman's terms please, by this I mean something like the ball joints will fall apart/fracture/other or the wheels will fall off - physical damage. Perhaps I misunderstood but the impression I got was that D.FYLAKTOS would damage or destroy something physical on his car by using 40mm lower springs. What, what will be physically damaged or destroyed? Or have I misunderstood and nothing gets physically damaged? Spell it out for me please, is the car going to be hopping or crashing along the road surface - what is the problem? You have put something about understeery (nicely non-technical word) but D.FYLAKTOS hasn't mentioned experiencing this with his set up. The bit you put about mechanics made me laugh as you didn't qualify it to exclude present company. Meeeow. 😄 I don't normally bother but - Happy New Year All. 😄 Ya gotta laff or yu'd cry. 😄

I always found Yokohama tyres very good when I used them but that was a few years back and not the two in that link. We put Nexen N blue HD plus (185/60/15) on the Fabia to replace the factory Nexen N blue(?) and they were not much of an improvement, both models totally unsuited to spirited driving like you do.

Your service last May might be different but often a service just means an engine oil & filter change, and with a Dealership a "free visual health check" that can list just about anything they think they can get revenue and profit on. Changing the engine oil & filter is just one small part of full servicing, maintenance and repair. As it's three cylinder anything a bit off with sparking on one is a third of what's available. I can hear some thing on the video that on my machine to my ears sounds like a knocking sound but not clear enough to know if it's from engine, exhaust or other things but someone with better hearing and mechanical knowledge may pick up on this a lot more than I ever could. @Rooted and others may know or have access to more general issues with the Fabia 1.0 lire 3-cylinder or be able to identify the noise.

The OP can decide which posts to follow or ignore. You are the one trying to groom me into your ways despite my obvious total resistance to it, please give up on trying to groom me it will never work. As often happens you are inaccurate and pervert things I have put, I use the word pervert in both its senses when applying it to you and what you have put, please be more careful and do not over step any boundaries of decent exchanges, you would not repeatedly say such things if we were face to face I'm sure.

I wasn't joking and I was careful to use your words and description. To get directly to the matter can you please tell me what damage will be done to what (structure(s) / component(s) / part(s) in layman's terms please?

@Zak13perhaps you could put up a video or audio recording of this noise (using a very open and easy platform (if platform is the right word) as it could be a lot of things. Have you done a good visual check of your wheels, tyres and brakes and all around them and the underside of the car? Have you been driving in or over thick mud? Fabia Mk3 S, 62k-miles, 1.0 lire(?), 3-cylinder, 5-speed manual gearbox(?)? What is the history of your car, has it been fully serviced, maintained and repaired, were the services done in a timely manner and fully, assuming it's a petrol engine spark plugs changed, engine air filter changed, brake fluid, brakes, tyres, etc., etc.. ? On something like this the more information you can give the easier it might be to diagnosis remotely and over a website.

What is Floated? What usage do you get out of them before you need or want to change them ? Toyo UK HQ is in Northamptonshire (county) (or was) and of course EBC is a family owned business founded and HQ in Northampton (town of) (or was) so I have had a few Toyo tyres in the past, never Proxes, but like all others their products changed. I have never used EBC products though a mate does.

So at what age, use, mileage (kilometerage) did the Konis first need/best to be rebuilt (but was not done) ? So 7,000 miles and 2 and a half years, a bit too early perhaps to say what might be destroyed over time but have you noticed anything - excessive/early wear, noise, vibrations, any items, components parts or systems not working as well as they should or did before, or anything else (other than the little camber recovery it had being lost/destroyed) since fitting the Apex lowering springs ? I will give a diplomatic "no comment" on such things as that. OFF-TOPIC WARNING I'm trying to think, I might have been a passenger in a BMW M or 3 or 5 on a track as a passenger, and certainly a modern 5 on UK road as a passenger, personally I didn't find them fun, the modern M5 seemed to me to have a cramped interior (and I'm used to British "classics" and modern (and modern Japanese} small sportscars interiors). I think I've only driven a very few BMWs not Ms and a (Z4) Alpina Roadster. The stereo fitted to a, new-ish, 635 csi impressed back in the day and it was a very reasonable car to be a (front seat) passenger in especially with my mate driving it as it was his boss's car that he had to drive him around for work and my mate was allowed to take it home and use, no petrol or servicing and maintenance to pay for, what I call a perfect car!

I thought it might be to do with the DSG but couldn't remember details as I avoid such things as I have, thankfully to me, no experience or need of them but rit did ask about using neutral (is that possible or do the computers do a lock out or alarm of that).

Solid disc better than drilled! Whatever next!!?!! 😁 Subject to overall braking balanced front and rear, (even) better quality and grip tyres, and accept perhaps shorter life from them but at about an average of 4,000 per year you should see a good few years use and enjoyment out of them.

Thanks. In those images it just looks silver to my eyes, on my monitor. 😄 As the Octavia III forum seems a lot busier you may get more and quicker replies there to your question but as it's a general subject it applies here or elsewhere too (and I've clicked or posted in other forums by mistake, a few times, sometimes replying to the wrong posts too). Each to their own but personally, with a big, heavy modern car with oversized wheels and tyres, all the padding and electric motors (as they all are) I'd not get too over concerned about fuel saving to an nth degree, particularly when the car only normally has one or two people occupying it in use and/or going at or just below whatever speed limit at the time and/or using all kinds of electric gadgets available. If you want to you can add your location, the TDi engine size and code, body style, DSG (type/number of gears?), year to your sidebar thingy so some can see that info at each post you make, as example only mine below.

21 years and 51,000 miles of city and spirited mountain roads use for the Koni dampers before they needed a rebuild ? I'm not trying to catch you out just let's pin this down once and for all. Your car is 23 years old, you put 21 years on the Koni dampers before rebuild, am I correct with this ? (My wife's 2015 VWSkoda Fabia Mk3 needed its factory fitted dampers replaced at only 6 years old and 41,000 miles, really annoyed me.) You also put - So how long, and mileage, have the Apex lowering springs been fitted ? I am trying to work out, other than the little camber recovery it had, what has been destroyed by your choice of lower Apex springs, what things have you had premature failure or replacement of, what has happened to the car overall, what has been spoilt or ruined, does it sound like a stripped out rally car on gravel or just a lot less pleasant, safe or reasonable to drive or be on the road, do they cause other parts and components to be replaced like they are going out of fashion ?

I'm not sure which car and year of car you are referring to* but I'd have thought generally if the car is out of gear you and the car's computers and their programs have less control over the vehicle and some of vehicle's systems - and a lot less importantly you're probably not saving any fuel, and I'm not sure how your insurance company would feel about it if you were involved in an accident at this time. I'm sure someone a lot more fluent than me can give you more details about the engine, wheels and car's systems and computer systems when not in ECO mode going downhill. * note, not that it really matters, your side thingy (no idea what it's called) shows "octavia III - cappuccino beige (I like it anyway)" and this is the Fabia Mk3 forum. I'd be interested to see what colour cappuccino beige is, I've had a Suzuki Cappuccino, fabulous type, size and weight of car for fuel saving if wanted, but never a beige car and wonder if it's near a 70s beige car colour.

I have no idea with this engine but on my wife's car, despite some believing otherwise, you are supposed to pressure refill the coolant after a bigger drain but for this and other fluids proper road testing and use over a period of days gets the levels back which means perhaps a few small top ups as IulianE has already put.

No I don't know either, just what I saw someone put, I think they meant it might make the dye less easy to see but it was an old thread so I didn't ask - perhaps you will be able to tell us when you try. Good luck.

Some ay it shows up less with the already fluorescent coolant that VW uses, I have no idea about this, but if you have the dye, torch and glasses I would imagine it might still show up well enough. You could also pressure test to highlight things more. Good luck.

Hi, welcome. I think the blanking plates for the fog lights just unclip, always easier said than done on plastics 6 years old. I would try with a plastic tool and use of a good lubricant like GT85. Found this, I've not read the following guide and at the start it just has to remove the blanking plates but does have a photo to give you some idea of some of the clips. - FABIA NJ - FOG LIGHT RETROFIT GUIDE - HTH.

Hi welcome. I will ask if a Moderator can move your post (thread) to the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum as your questions may be model/engine specific plus I think you would get more response there Or you could do a forum 'Search' for your subject within the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ Hope that helps.