Former

(Bearing in mind I didn't get a reply to my email to Mutol so don't feel included to particularly favour them.) MOTUL 4100 POWER 15W-50 Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) - 19.8 Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) - 154.7 Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) -148 API - SL - Meets 2001-2004 requirements of Automotive manufacturers Approval - VW 501 01 "All driving conditions: City, Road, Highway" https://azupim01.motul.com/media/motulData/DO/base/4100_POWER_15W-50_en_FR_motul_14600_20220504.pdf https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/api-service-classifications/363 Again figures only. As I put before you have a wide choice (and I would not worry about VW spec but I am not you) and numbers are numbers. You could go on for a very long time researching and trying oils at one change a year or every 5-7,000km going trough different multigrades, makes and models of oils. You are just as able as me to get the information on figures and only you can decide what oil(s) you want to try and I will wait for your choice and reported results of use. If you are worried about the 5w then as your weather appears to be 21c (Google for Greece, generally) then change the oil as soon as possible. Minus 1.6c here at the moment (Apparent Temperature -4.1 °C) and it certainly feels like it.

Below is just one example of the wheel alignment tool I mention in my last post to save your back, plenty around to chose from. I suggest buying two of them, or even four if swapping front wheels to rear.

I have used (UK?) Mobil 1 15w-50 Motorsport for a number of years in a few cars built in the 1970s (with engines designed in the 1950s) and in newer or new cars built in the 1990s (with engine designed in 1950s) and had no problems with it, a good oil but I could have got better if I had wanted, on engines with metal rocker covers I could hear the "tappets" more but it never worried me. Not been able to get it new in UK for a number of years and old stock was very difficult to find a number of years back too. Personally as I put I would not worry about VW numbers for your VW made Skoda engine and take Viscosity Index as a guide only. "The viscosity index (VI) is an arbitrary, unitless measure of a fluid’s viscosity change relative to a temperature change." - https://www.tribonet.org/wiki/viscosity-index/ Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (synthetic) (*GB) Kinematic Viscosity @ 100°C, cSt. – 12.8 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40°C, cSt. – 75.7 Viscosity Index – 170 (*GB) - https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-GB/a779a5f5-2cc7-44ab-b772-6e9fc36d99b0.pdf Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing (synthetic) Viscosity at 100 ºC cSt – 17.5 Viscosity at 40 ºC cSt – 116 Viscosity index - 169 https://lubricants.repsol.com/content/dam/repsol-corporate/en_gb/productos-y-servicios/lubricantes-documentos/MASTER_RACING_5W-50_EN.pdf Mobil 1 15w-50 Kinematic Viscosity @ 100 C – 18 Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C – 125 Viscosity Index (ASTM D2270) – 160 https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-15w-50 So - if you just go by the numbers Mobil 1 15w-50 would be your winner, so why not give second place Repsol 5W-50 Master Racing another try as you didn't push it too hard and don't remember anything about noise last use. It's a 5w for your winter use and 50 for your summer city traffic and hard mountain driving and claims to be designed "for powerful vehicles used daily in any environment and circumstances".

OK, thanks. What I meant was which Shell(?) model of oil is the current 5w-40 and which Motul(?) model of 10w-40 were you using just before the current (5w-40) oil. BTW I still have not received a reply to my email to Motul UK from a week or so back (Millers replied very quickly and asked me more questions to try to pin things down).

@m18rusif changing wheels at home (unless you have a lift ) because VW use silly bolts instead of wheel studs for the sake of your back I suggest you buy and use one, or better still two, wheel alignment tool, or two or four if swapping front wheels to rear. Below is just an example, plenty around to chose from, I've no idea of the quality of finish of this example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223480382915

Fabia III owners handbook link This is the current (1/12/23) link to the 'Owner's Manual' (driver's handbook not workshop manual ) you can select the model and part of year or VIN. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Is the current 5w-40 the same make and model of oil as the previous 10w-40 otherwise it's not a direct (real world) comparison of 5w to 10w plus with smaller oil blenders it's sometimes suggested that the absolute consistency of product make up. So what make and model of 5w-40 oil are you currently using and what make and model of 10w-40 are you comparing against? The car manufactures, as a generalisation, go for "thinner" as good for fuel economy too.

Well at least you've tried the easy first step, nothing lost with correct lubrication should do no harm but good. So now as you can open the boot from the inside it suggests it's the switch or wiring or further back so a multimeter and/or a VW compliant scan tool. Here's list of VCDS (and other) owners that might be able to offer help if required. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

As previous poster has put but I'd use GT85 (£3.50 from Halfords (web) at the moment for 400ml can) as this also has lots of others uses on the car, home, shed, pushbikes and it's PTFE and not silicone (for those that worry about the paint). Unfortunately it's no longer a British company but part of a large invasive American corporation but that's the UK now. - https://gt85.co.uk/ (no I'm not on commission 😄)

The UK fashion for decades has been to over wheel and tyre new cars for more appeal, mine are bigger than yours appeal too, with the standard sizes it's a bit like saying 4" heels, rather than 6", heels for walking in. Only example numbers now as I've no idea of tyre availability and price at these sizes, or what you can fit to your particular car, plus 70 is low profile to me, if you had 205/50 r17 you'd have another 1/2" sidewall to cushion against the potholes and with the correct tyre just as much grip and handling if that's a concern for tear-arsing about. 205/55 r16 would give nearly an inch more sidewall.

Well, on this occasion at least, and all previous occasions that I know of and can remember, the car did not lock itself with the key left in the ignition and doors shut but not locked. I had a quick look at the 'Car' menu (29.1 for those that follow mpg) not much in it for locking doors and I couldn't think how to get to anything about SAFELOCK. It's similar to checking the spare wheel tyre so that if/when you want/need to use it it's not under-inflated or flat and if you sell the car the next owner can have two sets of keys instead of the often (? used to be) only one, plus perhaps a fully inflated spare wheel. 😊 Sorry your issue to me, is as Toyah put it, it's a mystery.

Just thought of something (drip memory, or memory of a drip) if it happens again note how the red light in the driver's door is acting as it might (or might not) give info. Wet weather can sometimes highlight wiring issues but personally I never rule out computer brain-farts especially with the over-complex VW programs (the amber triangle of doom no longer frightens my wife with its appearance). Personally I recommend alternating, with whatever period you prefer, the use of the two sets of keys and fob to give the blades, batteries (and locks) more even wear plus it also means you know where to find the "spare" and that it works. Another quick thought, are you with any sort of diet or full fat KESSY (for a knave)? I'll unlock my wife's car, turn the ignition on for a short while then turn it off and exit the car shutting the door but leaving the keyblade in the ignition for say 15 minutes and see if it locks itself for you and report back here, of course our settings my be different to yours and ours isn't KESSY in any way. ETA. I will of course stand guard over the car so there's no possibility of anyone helping themselves to anything in the car or driving it away.

Let us know how you get on and if you want or need to go further, that's if no one else comes up with the reason or solution.

I was going to try that for you as the car and both sets of keys are easy available at the moment but we had a visitor so you beat me to it.. I wasn't just thinking of SAFELOCK but also reading other stuff in the book about the car's locking, have you looked at your locking settings in the menus. I don't normally leave the keys in the ignition but often I've got out of the car and not locked it to do checks on the car and I can't remember having any issues if I've also left the keys in the ignition and at home I could get distracted and it take more than 10 minutes (all the time staying next to the car to prevent it being stolen as I'd never want that). There are some PITA settings on the computers but I can't remember that being one of them. Let's us know if you find an answer, good luck.

I'm confused about what you and the car are doing but If you are referring to a Fabia Mk3 then have a look at the Owner's Manual about SAFELOCK. -https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

A no cost check you could try would be to remove, check and if required clean or replace the cabin filter and as much as possible clean or clear out the area, I favour a bottle brush and vacuum cleaner (great fun in such a restricted area). After that I can think of more checking and cleaning but most people wouldn't be arsed to do (and neither would I unless I had a garage to give me shelter at this time of year). If the cabin filter and inlet have lots of debris then you might need to follow the inlet further back to clear it out and perhaps cleaning and clearing of other bits but we can cross those bridges if you come to them. Unless others have the answer or you want to try the more checking and cleaning that may not solve or fully solve the issue the simplest solution is if it doesn't make the noise on the other settings then don't use fan speed 2 and leave it and see if the whistle progresses to other fan speeds as getting at the motor (and it's fan) if required is a PITA. The following video is just to give you the idea of how easy it is to check or replace the cabin filter, it's obviously a different model but similar process (well on 2015 Fabia IIRC). Good luck. -

At last "the penny drops". With whatever chart, or other information, you have to look at the parameters, scales, testing system/specifications and ranges and allowances and the source. A better product may be able to go further than a lesser product and for longer and less wear, meeting more than the minimum standard. Like the UK MoT, it's a minimum statutory standard that must be meet once a year, at one point in time, much of it to one trained person's opinion, a pass does not mean the car is good in other ways and only that it meet the points I put. before and not necessarily better than the minimum standard required. Now it may be the minimum or a bit above minimum is adequate for your wants and needs and those of the majority or vast majority of your vehicle model owners or you can decided differently if you want/need, it's up to you and you know you have lots of choice with oils and now so much information that you may feel you no longer know, as we say over here, "your arse from your elbow" but I am sure, as The Beatles almost sang, you can work it out. You will come to your own conclusion. "Enough already" with the charts, they have served their various purposes. 😁

@AShingers Or IF available look at the tyre manufactures' specifications on their sites or catalogues, the same make and model of tyre can also differ over the range of sizes and some sizes are nominal. 👍

Yes I know, my wife has a VW product so I had to learn about the VW dictates and oil specification numbers. With my wife's VW/Sskoda car the Owner's Manual (called "Operating Instructions" and the infotainment book is called "Owner's Manual" surely not a VW mistake) states the VW specification number of the oil required but not the multi-grade weight or refill quantities. Yes and I put you can't blame any manufacturer or blender for people buying counterfeit products from dodgy suppliers just because they are at low prices. Do you know of a counterfeit product supplier with a good reputation, other for bringing in money for themselves and/or the criminal gangs. This is why it is better to buy from a good reliable legal source and perhaps pay more than the lowest price available. There was no English language option on that video but I don't buy Castrol off dodgy e-shops so I am not too concerned - not that, I guess, counterfeit products have not made their way into garages over here, a lot of very dodgy characters work in the British motor trade.

I'm not for or against Castrol oils (in the UK Classic Castrol Oils are marketed by the MG Owners Club) and you can't blame any manufacturer or blender for people buying counterfeit products from dodgy suppliers just because they are at low prices. Personally I would not worry about VW's dictates on an old design of engine like what is in your Felicia unless I'm told VW done a lot of improvement work on manufacturing and building the engine, the quality of Skoda dropped when VW first started taking over but by the end of the 90s I expected things would have improved as VW quality then was not as it was into the next century and now. And VW superseded the specification numbers anyway, I guess later engines the oil additives packages may well be required to help squeeze the last nth degree out of such ancient technology as the internal combustion engine and perhaps help with engineering requirements from compromised development and build of those engines. Another table for your tablet's memory. 😁 - https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/oem-manufacturers-specifications-list/362

Just going slightly wider with the same make and model of tyre is unlikely to give you much difference in grip other than a new tyre being less worm and aged. A wide tyre compared to a narrow tyre gives a different foot pattern but not considerably more road contact with small increments of tyre width. Grip is more about the tyre's design and make up, a different model or make and model of tyre may offer more, about the same or less grip, same for ride comfort, noise, handling and braking. If you were to reduce the wheel size (if possible) to 17" this would give more options but I don't know about availability and cost for any of these sorts of sizes. A different model or make and model of tyre may offer more rim protection, plus I think I've seen you can buy separate rim protectors. These larger wheel and tyre sizes are often more about fashion, and possibly mine are bigger than yours for some blokes, those that want them then that's fine, each to their own, but fashion usually puts form over function. Tyres are a very complex and important component on a vehicle unfortunately it's not just a matter of the numbers and even the numbers can't all be taken at face value, have a look at a tyre catalogue for one make and model over the various sizes of tyre available in that make and model and you might see what I mean with that. I suggest it could be useful to ask on the relevant Superb forum here what other 2.0 TSI 220 owners use and find with tyres. HTH.

@D.FYLAKTOS another table of numbers to save to your tablet. I don't like your chart, for my wife it's dropped the about 37 to +35°C. 😒

Also bear in mind a "thin" (for want of a better word/description) say 50 or 60 could drop to the 40 or 50 band with use. Thank gawd for that chart, I don't need to try to restrict my wife's use of the car, well as long as it's below say a chart 37. 😀

If it's very little use it could be less expensive and less hassle to not have the car and use taxis, hire cars, public transport, kids, kids of kids, other family, bikes, eclectic bikes, mobility scooters and so on. My neighbour has just had 4 new tyres on his car this week, he does two or four fifths of a mile going round the block about once a month or less, I now do a 15 mile journey about every three or four weeks in it mainly to stop a brake piston cylinder rusting up again. The car done just over 700 miles in the four years since the last set of two new tyres (cheap Chinese concrete tyres that got cracks at the bottom of the tread within a couple of years) almost all of that mileage was from his daughter-in-law borrowing the car for a few days and his son taking the car to a friendly garage for brake work and MoTs. But this year even they had to put an advisory on the tyres, all four, though other two tyres weren't too bad for cracking or perishing. That was on top of the £540 insurance that hopefully was kept down a bit by adding me as a named driver. then of course there's the 'road tax'. Thankfully it's not a modern VW product so everything works on it despite it being a 'cheaper' marque than even VW's Skoda and the brakes before being sorted and having the cheap concrete Chinese tyres on would shame a VW and the tiny cheap Halfords battery is easy to keep going passed it normal life as the car doesn't have the modern 'clever' over complex VW computer programs my wife's 2015 Fabia has. Yes keep your 2011 Yeti as long as you can or want and unless you win the pools don't be tempted by 2019 or newer. 😄

Low or very low mileage might not be good for your tyres particularly if your car permanently lives outside. Perhaps it was just circumstances but tyres bought 3 and 4 years ago have cracked with low-ish mileage on my wife's Fabia and garden ornament mileage on my neighbours car so plenty of tread depth left on the tyres, both cars are permanently outside and the crack in the tyres of my wife's car were on the inside side of the tyres so out of sight normally. Very low mileage causes the car generally problems that might not be present with more mileage and reasonable distance journey use, you'd not want a 2019 or newer car for very low mileage so look after your 2011.