Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Its done now but for others - there's no need to worry about saving memories when disconnecting or replacing the battery see the 'Owner's Manual' for what's needed to replace, disconnect/reconnect or charge the car's battery. VWSkoda link for free pdf download of 'Owner's Manual' - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models varoom beat me to what I was going to put - see his previous post as his downloads detail of what 'coding' of the battery may be required - which it will be required if you've swapped from EFB to AGM battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'll be honest I'd have not thought of it but then I struggle with all the plastic wire connectors on modern cars. Be interested to know when you find out as we live in a fairly hard water area and don't use premixed washer fluid. Some advice, don't let the car battery get low in charge as even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there are no warning lights or messages yet the car battery can still be too low for the computers and they can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. Depending on the car, and battery, use some owners find they need to use an appropriate battery charger and maintainer as a repair or occasional preventative measure. Just for future, you can add details to your name thingy (no idea what it's called) at the lhs of posts to perhaps save having to repeat the details in future posts as in my example here. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Apparently it's a matter of a turn. See video that follows. ETA: wrong video, for a 2019 Fabia at least, so removed. I'm curious why you might on a three year old car need to clean the inside of the washer system, what's been used as washer fluid as I'd have thought most debris would be on the outside of the washer jets unless the car has been standing or washers not used for a long time when in my experience you can get a snot like gel in the fluid mixture. In particularly this could weather I'd not be touching any bits of plastic unless I really had to, and in warmer weather I'd be reluctant and very careful. Hope this video helps, (ETA: it didn't so removed) first one I found but it is a VW and still with fantastic-plastic, as no doubt(?) the Bentleys too. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi welcome. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 the horn is live with the ignition off. IIRC I've never had a car where the horn wasn't live but I am old and normally have had very old cars but even the brand new ones were the same, having put that the last new car I had was over 20 years ago. I don't think this particular thing is in there, but if you've not already done so, if you fully read and when required refer to your 'Owner's Manual' then you'll know more about your car than many long term owners and some at garages. There's also loads of info and help available here. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's Mk3 Fabia is a 2015 1.2 TSI 90 (SE) hatch. Having had "classic" (over-priced, over-valued) cars as daily use for the last 30+ years and a 1973 MG Midget for about 14 years until last summer the thing that surprised me was the air filter change interval although luckily on my wife's car it was also changed at spark plug change, two years seems long enough to me given how much muck and grit the outside of the car gets from use and being parked up. I don't understand the VW way of specifying the oil and personally go for oil that covers all the various VW specs for the engine rather than picking one spec, VW seem to love over complicating things, makes me wonder what they're trying to hide. 😉 Personally even if your daughter uses the car for motorway miles I'd suggest you stick with 10-kmiles or annually for engine oil and filter changes and if like my wife's and many others the journeys are frequently very short and the oil barely gets a chance at 90°C then it might even need changing more often, not that I've bothered so far. One thing to be aware of is keeping the car battery at a reasonable level of charge otherwise the computers can get upset and throw up all sorts of issues before any warning lights or messages and with the engine still starting and the lights seeming bright enough. Depending on vehicle use some find the use of an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) is required, perhaps only occasionally. There was also a battery recall so checked if your daughter's car was included and if so that it was done. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Unlike my neighbour's 20 year old Toyota Yaris my wife's car has already had the front dampers replaced at about 6 years, 41k-miles, the new (Dealer) replacement dampers where going to be an MoT failure at less than 12-months old for leaking but after this the Dealership that fitted them with supposedly (I wasn't there) the warranty (2-years) replacements ready to fit found the fitted dampers were "misting" and didn't even note it as an Advisory on the MoT they did on the car. There's some sort of creak under the car, I've seen others have this and some have changed lots of parts and a noise remains, whether it's the same noise as on my wife's car obviously I can't know. Just recently one of key remotes has failed (we rotate the use of the two remote keys) £143.40 for remote and £41.40 to program it, an unexpected delight especially as it was the one that appeared less worn, the car had a lot of use in the 10k-miles before my wife bought it. I replaced the front discs and pads at 41k-miles, 6 years, again as my wife didn't have the car for the first 10k-miles I can't comment on the wear and I could have left replacing them to get more wear out of them but brakes are always number one priority (braking including tyres of course). At start up particularly the engine bay has given different noises at various times I guess it's the computers doing as they require I try not to hear anything now and my wife takes no notice anyway. The computers have told us there was a problem with a rear light when there didn't seem to be and not reported on a duff looking front bulb until a week after I first noticed it. The tyre pressure monitoring is not to be relied on (use a reliable tyre pressure gauge) it told my wife there was a problem well after she realised there was a puncture - but then I hope you've taught your daughter not to wait and rely on "idiot" warning lights and messages. As with the old cars if you and particularly your daughter read and when required refer to the 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about the car than many long term owners and some at garages. There should be a paper printed copy with the car and you can also get a free pdf copy download from the following VWSkoda link. Even things like changing the remote battery owners have issues with because they've not referred to the 'Owner's Manual' (synchronising remote, very easy), alarm going off when using "emergency" keyblade and lock, and a few other things I can't think of now. - 'Owner's Manual' link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Some (6 in total) simple videos that could help and remind you and your daughter (and me) of somethings about the car. Good luck.

Certainly lots of crap made stuff is made in China but a lot of that is because consumers in the likes of the UK and USA demand the lowest prices to pay for lots of stuff, and then often moan about it being crap. The Chinese can do quality very easily, very high quality but then big Western brands put their names on the cheap made crap and sell at a low price but with very high margins or the very high quality stuff at massive margins. Ratner wasn't lying. 😄 And don't mention products made in Erdington to me . . . 😡

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As with Warrior193 I have not seen refence to it, and Warrior193 has probably seen a lot more than me about it but on what I have seen so far I suspect the opposite in that as the battery is monitored for the start/stop and the start/stop can be deactivated (or not activated) for various reasons and info from sensors the various computer programming probably has allowances to stop or prevent the battery from being overcharged. Having put that, some of the references I have seen made to some circumstances or conditions for the start/stop to operate or not didn't seem to apply to my wife's car but who knows when the programs are changed or updated from model to model or (part?) year to (part?) year and allowing for programming errors and omissions - as if!, sorry I take that back, such things wouldn't happen. 🙃

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Thanks for reporting back. Glad you got it sorted. Unfortunately I'm not too surprised that a modern made part was faulty or didn't last too long as I'm so used to it from the world of "classic" (old over-priced, overvalued) British cars where parts quality can often be abysmal or ****-poor, I've even, twice, been let down by modern made British motorsport engineering, very simple but expensive, components. All being well your issue is now sorted for a very long time.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'm not so sure as it's part of the very complex interconnected computer programming, I don't see any harm in giving it a go, see the last two paragraphs of one of Breezy_Pete’s posts in that thread. J367 is Battery monitor control unit with battery sensor. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/486431-charging-current/#comment-5463199 As I see it your problem, or part of it, could be the current battery possibly weakened or damaged by another issue, the charging system (which includes computer programing) or the computer programming, perhaps an update to it is needed(?). To confirm the battery it would possibly need to be isolated or removed from the vehicle and tested. The alternator charging could be tested but as one element of the charging system it would need the charging system monitoring. The computer programs might show a glitch from battery or charging system monitoring if no Recalls or updates are available. The other side of course is the out goings from the battery what is drawn from it, what draws for how much and how long and should it, possibly items added to the car on constant if low drain or going faulty and working when they should not. I think battery monitoring has been covered before and the others have covered VCDS, you could perhaps buy a different system that covers VAG and others makes if later you want to get out of VAG ownership but none of the better systems will be cheap. Unfortunately swapping batteries in and out or around with cars to keep them going whilst testing or charging in another car or "bench" (shed) is not as easy as it once was. My neighbour has an old spare battery that we move around between his car and van as both are rarely driven so one or the other has the battery too low for when they are used or need moving.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If it's possible and allowed for a 2018 car, and in Nirrain's country, to disconnect the start/stop system then I've seen at least one poster put they've used their car for three years with the start/stop negative post connector disconnected. Someone like varooom would have to do all the tests with readout figures or graphs but I fully 100% (if not more) charged the AGM battery before fitting it my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3, from the previous EFB, and I left the start/stop negative post connector disconnected for a while before I could get someone to 'code' the battery in. Like varoom I changed the battery prematurely to avoid the slightest hassle as my wife uses the car on lots of very, very short journeys and is not as thrifty with the electric as I and she'd not tolerate any car problems having already experience two or three lifetimes of them. Nirrain's got an EFB battery that keeps losing charge so could perhaps risk a journey or two with the start/stop negative post connector disconnected especially if he can monitor the situation with some sort of VCDS or the likes - not that I'm suggest any plug-in should be left in too much.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Did you try try, if possible and allowed, disconnecting the start/stop connector the battery negative post and seeing how things go with the battery driving with that disconnected. Or have you checked to see if your battery is fully charging or has a bad cell or other fault so shows as fully charged but is not - or does not hold charge with use, might need another new battery if the current one got badly injured. Modern "smart" battery chargers and maintainers are not very smart and easily fooled by batteries and humans. Have bought a VCDS or asking before you do?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry went by this thread. I'm not sure what you are reading there and how you're doing the readings, are you sure you've got the voltage range set correctly. The resistance is often quoted on manufacturer's materials or parts lists, possibly on a bit of paper in or on the box, though I don't know for sensors. You'd be much better with someone who knows electrics, a few post in Fabia Mk2 and Mk2 sections but also drift to Mk3 section sometimes.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I put my hands up. Sorry to hear this when you put running very rough you meant it, well beyond any battery.

Your later post had three years. - As a FREEDOM member you could go back and edit your posts if you want to, just as example perhaps for continuity a strikethrough of 2016 and add 2019, such as. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As my wife's car was here this morning I thought I'd do a test. Locked the car left it 10 to 15 minutes then stood next to the passenger door, unlocked and opened the door, pull the bonnet release, lifted and secured the bonnet, put the multimeter probes on the top of the battery posts (battery obviously fully connected up to car) - all done within seconds well before any whirls or clicks which I think are minutes later usually. Reading was 12.40V, left the bonnet up and went off to do chores, came back about 30-35 minutes later took another reading, 12.68V, so call it 0.3V difference for a round figure (on this occasion and conditions). No user consumables are connected or left on just the malicious VW computers festering away I expect, SE spec 2015 Fabia.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. John, up to you of course, depending on what breakdown service you have you might have to be careful what you say as some don't like the client/customer messing with the car as it's their job to mess with it. I'd not think some charging the battery would be messing with the car but I'm not working at one of those places perhaps under pressure with too many call and not enough staff. Get the battery full charged if you can, but not over charged, do your tests then try starting it up and see how it is and what if and warning lights and messages remain, go for a short drive if any remain and see if anything is left to ring the breakdown service about. Any hidden error codes from the battery being low can be cleared sometime later as that issue is over. Bear in mind any reading off the battery just after charging will show higher than a reading taken after the battery has been sitting for say 12 or 24 hours later. Charging the battery is only really minutes of easy work but (many) hours of patience.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Martin, see varooom's guides here for info, the first paragraphs explain it and if you're interested there are links to more information. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/508877-vcdsodis-how-to-adapt-a-new-battery/

cado, 500, 700, 1,000 or a time are just a figures really, conditions of use and environment play into when might be best for the oil change, most people wouldn't bother, engineers will say it's a waste of time and any oil to spec will do (what spec when and how it was arrived at is a different matter). Personally I don't but into the idea of a long life oil, a better oil will protect better for longer by its extended protection and retaining its protection over wider ranges, more consistently. I'd change the oil at least once a year or 12k-miles. I can't see any point in not changing the filter every time the oil is changed as you hope the filter is holding some crud so you want that out of the car for the new filter to collect the next lot. And I prefer to use better quality oil filters, what they are for VW I've not really established yet as I've managed to avoid the hassle of doing an engine oil change on the Fabia (though I have done the "waste of time" gearbox oil change). Just to make things clear I l - o - a -t - h - e doing any work on cars we own, dirty messy horrible thankless unrewarding pain in the back, neck and head way of passing time, but I'm not so anti doing small jobs on other peoples' cars . Americans might consider 6-7k-miles a long oil change interval, but things are cheaper over there and they love oil. I am thinking that I might do (a) 6 month engine oil and filter change on the Fabia as it's used so frequently for very, very short journeys but the plastic underheld means it needs driving on to breeze blocks for me to get my head under there to get the shield off, and I need to lug the breeze blocks there and back and be arsed to do the job that if my back's not playing me up from the "£$%^&* stupid idea of using wheel bolts instead of wheel studs, the !£"$!%^&. IIRC on my wife's Fabia 1.2 TSI the oil filter is middleish at front (near cooling rad) and looks easy enough to get but I've yet to discover how true that might be. Do bear in mind the engine is not of importance compared to the brakes, steering, suspension (all three include the tyres), safety electrics (lights, wipers, blower, horn, car battery) and windows.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd have put a small bet on it being your battery before but now I'd put a bit more on it being your car battery and I'd stress the fully recharge it with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) a 4-amp better than a 6-amp and a 2-amp better than a 4-amp. The lower the charger the long it'll take so the rare commodities of time and patience are required to fully recharge the battery. If you can't fully recharge the battery in one go then do it in two goes. Hopefully you will see once the battery is fully recharged and you have driven the car a short distance that you don't need to worry about driving the car. Given your low mileage use, despite what others might tell you, with the use of an appropriate charger (and maintainer) when required you might still have been on the original factory battery, if not then there might be problems to have prevented this. I'd have another small bet your breakdown people weren't the RAC as they'd have possibly sold you a new battery if you needed one or not, if it was the RAC or your breakdown person knew it wasn't the battery I'd be surprised but I am often wrong. I'd have also put a small bet on your battery not being the factory original without being Mystic Meg. When you had this battery installed was it a like-for-like replacement, possibly EFB, 59Ah or different, was it 'coded' by Halfords. You may not be aware that a battery may show 12.7V -12.9V when new so as has been put 12.0V is low, best normally to keep the battery above 12.3V depending on when, what, how the readings are done. I'll put what I always put - just because the car starts and the lights seem bright enough it does not mean that the car battery isn't too low in charge for the computers and their programs will throw up all sorts of unexpected issues even before any warning lights or messages. As you have found by the time you get the warnings it's often too late - and prevention is better than cure. I'm a lot more convinced than you and hope it is the battery as it's an easy resolve but even if it's not having a battery in a good state of charge will be helpful for diagnosis and problem resolution whereas a battery in a low state of charge can hinder or even prevent full diagnosis and problem resolution. If the battery state of charge is the fault then fully charging it once won't be the full resolve, two batteries in 6 years suggest further actions are required to prevent the situation reoccurring, keeping an eye on the battery state of charge and fully recharging when required, possibly looking at consumption on the battery or battery replacement again (I'd put that off with using a charger/maintainer or lots more use of the car and charger when required). For the KESSY keys my guess is that VW, VWSkoda aren't being 100% transparent about possible issues and would probably like to trot out the "nobody else has had problems" as much as possible. Where is the second key kept? (you shouldn't have a spare but rotate use of a second key) Do let us know how you get on, unlike some I'd not mind if you put I'm wrong and it wasn't the battery but I'd be surprised if you didn't find some improvement on something on the car from increasing 12.0V on the battery to somewhere much nearer full charge. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Check the voltage of the car battery after being parked up for a couple of hours, if low it could be the cause and you're best to fully recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) Talking of batteries, my wife's non-KESSY (thank gawd) fob takes 2025 (20mm wide by 2.5mm deep) the 2032 is 3.2mm deep. Good idea to use a scanner but often it tells you what wrong that you already know and not the cause, good to have a readout though if you want to post it but check the battery voltage anyway as the start/stop is a warning that your battery might have been low for a while unless it's had recent heavy use.

@KenONeillwhat do you make of the videos?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Scanners are a bit of a minefield especially if bought off somewhere like Amazon where they might be intended more for the USA market and there are so many at different price points. I'm not against generic scanners but some work better than others and specific systems should be better for the specific use. Buying an all in one machine means you are obviously paying for the hardware as well as the computer programs. Best to ensure you update info before every use. I don't know how good this one is at (forget the technical term) getting the readings from the sensor(s) to the screen and gaps left, then two lots of info to screen and how in sync. My old eyes and mind was swivelling at trying to tie up graphics and numbers on the split screen, I can only cope with both on one graph (merge graph perhaps on that scanner?). I didn't see any battery voltage read out. To me, but just about anyone else would know better than me, the display of S2 (as after cat) looks wrong, either sensor, the reading, machine's programing (doubtful here I'd have thought) or cat (or computers starved of car battery power 😁) - but check with others as I'm very often wrong. Reading your OP again I see you put "Bank 1 sensor 1 gives slow response" yet you changed the rear(?) sensor. I've no idea how it is with the C1 but sometimes although you can buy a range of sensors as replacement some are bettered suited to to particular use than others, new cheap Chinese stuff can sometime be worse than worn original parts. I'm not sure how this might relate to the tyre and esc lights but I'd check the car battery voltage as if it's too low for the computers they can almost get more confused than I usually am. Bit strange that the scanner doesn't show anything for the tyre and esc lights, have you looked at the wheel sensor yet, might just need a clean or check of connections and wiring. Don't get too hooked up playing with the scanner and forget basics like visual checks and manual simple repairs (often boiling down to clean (and lube)). Good luck.

Well done. I was going to suggest taking lots of photos and then zooming in on them, or using a cheap endoscope on your phone to get in better to where the fixings might be. On MGBs the heater box is clearly visible in the engine bay and held in by 5 or six screws one being under the circular sweep of the fan housing part and in decades I never found anyone who knew how to get that screw fitted properly yet the factory managed and so did many restorers. Now the matrix is out you can clean it internally, it looks clean externally in the photo, and flush, back-flush and flush again with a garden hose. The way you look after your car it's probably quite clean internally any way, I've seen some that perhaps just used water at some time(s) and they never fully stop giving out some debris. We'd do a small vacuum test before reinstalling even though it was rare to get leaks on them. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you have not already sorted this by now . . . What manual are you working to, is it for that particular installation, can you put up the manual instructions (pdf?) for others to see if you might have missed something. I usually find it's a fixing I've missed or forgot about - I was once struggling to get a brake drum off tapping it harder and then I noticed I'd only removed one of the two plainly visible screws, a job I had done a good few times before so knew there were two screws, so how could I miss it but I did.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Uhmm, how good is this scanner, is it also Citroen based. To me, not knowing a C1 or much else really, the three lights more suggest possible wheel sensor or a dodgy wheel bearing than an oxygen sensor though of course you could have more than one issue at once. Be careful with even correct error codes as often they're not the answer but just a pointer in the diagnostics. Have you access to a more Citroen and/or higher level scanner to see what that comes up with. Have you checked to see if the car has any updates due or recalls or stuff like that. IIRC, unless I dreamed it or on Fantasy Island again Toyotas could throw up traction and engine if there was a fault at a brake light cluster and perhaps might have heard of similar with a VWSkoda (though surely not, I must be confused again). If it was a VW or VWSkoda I'd also check the car battery voltage a couple of hours after the car had been parked up to make sure the battery charge wasn't low. - now Ken's beat me to it. 😄 ETA: me being me if the battery was low I'd first try fully recharging the battery with an appropriate battery charger (and maintainer) and not a quick/fast charge, and see how the battery takes and holds that, possibly stand more chance as it's not a VAG car of the battery being able to be retained longer. I've got a feeling battery chargers will get more popular over the next decade.