Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You may already know but in case not, don't rely on the TPMS for tyre pressure, check yourself with an accurate/consistent pressure gauge, by the time the computer program warns you you may already be well aware of tyre pressure loss, also check the Owner's Manual for what else can cause the warning.

Easy to find out, try just one then two alternating back to one, then two and see which you think is best, one or two. It the knurled section at the end, which provides finger grip, that might scratch, if you have facilities to cut that off and perhaps cut a any socket head or external square or hex or drill a hole through for a small round bar (or screwdriver shaft). Don't to forget to check all your tyres, sidewalls and treads, brake fluid for wet, air filter as you can get a lot of debris in a static uncovered vehicle.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can't remember are all manuals 5-speed for these years, anyway looks like I might be wrong (again), the switch might be accessible from the top, see if this video corresponds with your car, my wife's car's not available at the moment to check. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qC_G-ViY1bw

Sorry I misunderstood I thought you'd bought them in singles. It's as much the balance as the weight of the (oversized) wheels and tyres and how deep or shallow the centre hub flange(?), very shallow and easy to slip off on my wife's Fabia MK3. Replacing the wheel with the car on the ground, so the tyre is perhaps less than an inch off the ground is probably more difficult than when the car is in the air on a lift and the wheel at chest height and eyes more in line with stupid shallow hub centre and stupid five holes instead of studs. IIRC the locating studs we got were about 4" long, I can't think why that'd be too long. Originally I only had one and I found that gave a pendulum effect when trying to line up with the stupid shallow centre hub and other four stupid holes, so I bought a second locating stud. The one I bought was cheap and probably from China as probably the one I was gifted but the one I was gifted was a better finish to the machining, if I was worried about scratching the bolt holes I'd not use the cheap one I bought. The tyre pressure warning on my wife's Fabia Mk3 is next to useless, by the time it indicated a problem she already well knew there was one.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Instead of WD-40 Multi-Use get a can of GT85 does all that the WD-40 does but better and longer lasting and smells nice, finishes drier and less sticky than grease. - https://gt85.co.uk/ " . . . nothing on God's green Earth that this product cannot do . . . " - - - https://www.youtube.com/embed/CatS9OnKh38?start=173&end=223

Are those separate items or combined like my neighbour's RSC 612 12A SmartCharge with Battery Analyser Up to 5.0L. A lot less strain if the wheels had 3, 4 or 5 studs instead of bolts! 😠

Take it from me and my bad back have and use those tools in sets of two on the wheel change.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Never rely too much on fault codes or the absence of fault codes. I might be wrong but I think the bleep relates to the rear parking sensors and again I might be wrong but I think it only takes one sensor to have a fault (or be disconnected) to stop the system. Do the reversing lights light up when reverse is selected as I would have thought, but might be wrong, that would indicate if the reversing light switch is working. Which gearbox do you have? I don't know but think it unlikely you'd be able to get at the reversing switch from above but I could be wrong. I've just had a look, if you lay on the ground you can look up and with a torch see the connectors and wiring to the three rear sensors (funny as I thought there were four).

It's the use of two that's important, after the VW "%$£&*^ wheel bolts done my back in a mate bought me a locator stud but then with an iffy back I found putting the wheel on one locating stud and the very shallow and thin hub centre was still a balancing act so I bought and use a second locating stud, which is better but still not as good as three, four or five wheel studs!! (telescopic - that's the word I couldn't think of)

Nothing special, just what I'd expect in my mind and other cheap DIY stuff (like Ring Automotive chargers/testers). The mate who bought it for me asked to compare it against to his two cheap multimeters and a slightly less cheap third he'd just bought and that registered lower than the other two. My Martindale was close to his first two but all three were slightly different and all three above his latest purchase so he sent it back. As long as I stick to it and any inaccuracies are consistent it doesn't matter for the very, very little I use it, mainly batteries car and others.

@Warrior193 do you know if the multimeter I was bought as a present is any good, I think it seems to give slightly optimistic readings. - https://martindale-electric.co.uk/product/mm39-standard-digital-multimeter-auto-ranging/

See the post below and the following posts, as far as I can see the RSC806 is the same size case as your 808, it's not designed to be put inside the engine bay with the bonnet closed, see my previously posted photo and the video I posted. Click on the "Dodgy Electrics" ("26 January") here. -

Yeap as I put before I think it's a good idea to give it a go as an exercise of learning. You will need to put the battery on your RAC on the 2-amp setting for a number of hours before the Ring might accept the work and check the RAC isn't getting to warm or the battery warm, if so stop and give up. You'd need to keep an eye on the battery and charger. Formerly before recharging you'd check and top up if required the electrolyte (distilled/de-ionised water) and if any of the plates in the cells looked buckled or too "furred up" you'd give up but now many batteries are properly sealed. If they're not fully sealed you can just remove the sticky label and prise off the cover(s) - but always beware of the hazards with batteries. - https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/health-safety/ If you get a multimeter you can confirm for me if the Ring needs 10.7V to start charging a 12V battery as I've taken this figure from the Lidl cheap charger Batteries I've revived that haven't been used back on the vehicle, or not suitable, or reliable, or enough life, have been used to power other 12V items like garage radio or lighting, small tools. I was think of taking it to a 'scrappy' where I assume they reclaim materials or pass them on for others to do, I never looked in to it. As I put I don't think you need a larger battery as you have the "smart" charger to use and would still be using it on a larger battery but perhaps slightly less often but also the Ring is a maintainer so can be left on to keep the battery topped up. I'd not keep the battery maintainer on without end as the battery is designed for discharge and charge, best by use of the car plus charging if/when required. Keeping to the same size battery would also save the time, hassle and expense of getting another jacket. The original battery size would have allowed for winter CCA and bear in mind these cars (generally) go to colder places than the UK. If you saw some of the threads on this site where a low battery continues to be used for many months with a bit of difficulty starting you'd not worry as you are going to be recharging the battery with the Ring when required. Also don't put too much into just figures like CCA, these figures are for the battery when new and some batteries will lose performance and age more and sooner than others, there's also different systems of measurement for these figure (but that's another subject) and you have to check the figure on the battery itself as databases and adverts can have errors or out of date. If you're 'coding' the battery you can change the Ah (and type of battery and what VW have as "serial number") so the Ah can be different but if you aren't 'coding' then best to stick to same Ah, I've no idea if a slight difference in Ah would make much odds. If you change the type of battery fitted then you do need to 'code' otherwise gawd knows what punishment VW have set up. See below, this is what was done for me by a member of the site using OBDEleven system. Note the VWSkoda factory didn't bother putting in a battery code, others have had the same. I think much of the information is just for VW statistics, check how long the batteries last and try to avoid claims when there's a **** up their end. My wife's car was part of a battery recall but was just checked, however when I changed the battery it might have been more expensive at the time because of a battery shortage as I believe VW were having to replace batteries on recall or warranty, I don't know the details but I've just checked now and the same battery is at a lower price than when I bought it. Ask for a print out to check they have coded it correctly, on another thread an auto-electrician put in 7Ah instead of 70Ah and the new battery was in trouble after only about a year. Very bad programing IMO that would allow such a thing there should be a range of acceptable figures for the 'coding' to accept, I expect the programmers formerly worked for banks or credit companies. Yes good thing too, why bother if the factory didn't. Good luck let us know how you get on. I'd be interested if you try to revive the old battery, if possible. I saw a chap with a broken down 2009 XJ Jag when I was walking down to my wife's Fabia at her work with my multimeter and my neighbour's scan tool (another VW fault but we won't go into that) he'd had the recovery man out to tell him his XJ alternator was had it and he'd totally flattened the battery by having the heated seats on at 5 am whilst struggling to start the car and it had stopped on a busy road after. I checked the battery with my multimeter and the reading was so low that I checked my multimeter was registering right against a brand new button battery I had to take out of the packaging, his car battery showed on the multimeter 0.45V, I asked him to tell me the reading to make sure I was seeing right. (ETA: It was cold at the time which is not good for electronics).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. When we couldn't sort out a washer jet for a neighbour's 2008 Kia and he had to order a new one to my surprise they were a different jet driver's to passenger's side, I forget now pattern and pressure but the part numbers were different. ETA: N' ptun is north of the south and south of the north, not soft (southern?) water but not over hard (northern) water.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Has been know for Dealerships to shuffle round such things as Owner's Manuals, they had to take one out of another car when I insisted on a paper printed copy for my wife's car. Try putting your VIN in the following link and see which version it gives you and if it ties up with the printed paper one you have, the version is printed on the last page(s) something like "Fabia anglicky 11.2017". - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models My wife's Owner's Manual had it's title as "Operating Instructions".

@John2022 great information, good on you for going to such sources. The battery manufacturers do vary a little with their information and advice so one consensus source like yours is good (but don't necessarily believe that 11.9V (totally) knackered) . Trying to add to your info and not diminish it as you can only have general advice because there are so many variables with the vehicle use so I'm not knocking you at all, you can take or leave my notes, they're just my notes - - the volts to % can be about 0.1V variance - 11.9V in reality is nowhere near knackered, might be weakened, even the Ring "smart" would probably start charging a battery at 10.7V (as an example, it doesn't state), see my earlier post (7 hrs back now) - in summer if it's 30c weather then the battery itself discharges twice as much as at 20c and at 40c (as last summer) then the self-discharge is twice as much as 30c, so the battery is weaken for it's late-autumn and winter use Just for info and to show variance, not that it matters generally, figures from my neighbour's Ring RSC612 battery charger/tester. - 12.7v - 100% - 12.5v - 90% - 12.4v - 80% - 12.3V - 70% - 12.2v - 60% - 12.1v - 50% - 11.9v - 40% - 11.8v - 30% - 11.6v - 20% - 11.3v - 10% And VW figures. - Charge level No-load voltage 1.28 g/cm3 100% 12.7 V 1.21 g/cm3 60% 12.3 V 1.18 g/cm3 40% 12.1 V 1.10 g/cm3 0% 11.7 V I've seen 12.9V put as 6 x 2.15V but I'd go with whatever figure any particular charger uses for 100% charge, the Ring RSC804 (808) doesn't give any so it makes things easier. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I can't one finger type fast enough. I was still typing my last post before I saw your (cado) last post. cado hopefully my previous post will cover some of your points, to cover the others - as has been put by Warrior193, and me in an earlier post, the modern Ring "smart" charger alone will not get your existing battery back but using the RAC on 2-amp setting to lift it for the Ring to start and then alternating their use ending with the Ring may recover the battery for other use permeant fixing would require a little bit of sorting if you can't leave the bonnet up, if you have a garage different to if you don't when the new battery arrives you connect the Ring charger it will show the new battery's voltage, then you select 12V car and leave the Ring to do it's work, when it reaches full it will show "FUL", how long, er less than an hour or less than two it depends on how easy and convenient it is for you to connect up the Ring but if it's easy I would use that to give a reading of the battery voltage instead of a cheap multimeter - check after the car has been parked up for a few hours (or 12-24 hours after recharging with the Ring) I would use the Ring charger to charge the battery if it showed the battery to be 12.2V or 12.3V so just a little more cautious than Warrior193 (but this is a "do as I say and not as I do" because despite how it seems I rarely bother checking the battery as I never really had to before my wife got this VW computer programs. Do ensure you read the Yeti's Owner's Manual about disconnecting and changing the battery and possible resets after reconnecting the new battery.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As has been put your existing battery would probably be far too far gone now for any recharge and use let alone on your Yeti but it still has recycle value (£8?). I expect you already know that if you are getting a bigger EFB battery size that you need to check that the bigger battery will fit the thin insulation jacket (box?), fit on the shelf and hold down clamp and that the Ah rating is the same for the VW computer program(s). If you're not going to add any high-use electric extras to your Yeti or sit for long periods without the engine running but using electric items then I'd not bother getting a bigger sized battery unless the existing size is more expensive (because it's a less common size) because you'll still need to use your RSC 808 whichever battery you fit. It's not just if the battery starts the car, with the VW start/stop system and it computer programs, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough and there aren't yet any warning lights or messages the battery could still be too low for the computer and they will throw up all sorts of unexpected issues. The Ring RSC808 is a bigger version of the RSC804 you see being used in that photo of my wife's Fabia, the RSC808 still charges a (nominal) 12V battery at maximum of 4 amps which I think is good. Any difficulties with it just ask, someone I know found the pictorials lacking and hard to follow. Two things that aren't made clear in the brief instructions are that you use the winter setting when the ambient temperature is below (+) 5c, well that's what's on a previous Ring charger and second the ER 2 I take to mean the wrong battery voltage has been selected (6, 12, 24) or that the battery is too low or sulphated for this modern "smart" charger. I bought my 804 after seeing the 808 review on a YouTube channel I follow, it's a fair review and good for how to use the charger. Note when you first turn on the electric mains supply the charger tell you what is in your battery but bear in mind this reading is best taken a couple of hours after you have parked the car up (or 12-24 hours after the battery has come off a battery charger). I get confused with the terminology and it doesn't seem fixed anyway, just follow what you have with the RSC808 and let it do it's stuff. Yes you could use your RAC but it's not as convenient as a modern "smart" charger. I'd never use it on fast charge at 15 amps (check your Yeti's Owner's Manual) and certainly not on a very flat battery as it'd probably kill the battery whereas the 2 amp ("trickle") charge may well revive many very flat batteries but take a long time, much longer than many would want to wait. Yes you're right you shouldn't need to use it on your new battery if you use the Ring. Again check your Yeti's Owner's Manual (can you see another theme here) about disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery and any resets that may (but not always) be required, it's nothing to worry about and more likely to do more good than harm ("try turnin' it off 'n' on agen"). For charging the battery or jump starting check your Yeti's Owner's Manual - honestly if you read and refer to the Owner's Manual when required you will know more about your car than many long term owners. The charger's negative goes to the engine earth as shown in Urrell's earlier post. I started putting " Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything." because my troll said my posts were too authoritative to my level of knowledge, and IIRC a Yeti owner agreed because I wouldn't accept that a car's alternator was all that was usually required and a battery charger wasn't, - so if you want I can give you the benefit of my experience if you want to just as an experiment (not for use on the Yeti) and to boost your confidence with the car battery, to find out if or how much you might be able to revive your existing battery I can guide you through the 'Messages' system on this site.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I'd prefer the use of GT85 as it's not harmful to paint, has a propellant so nor reliant on gravity, drives out water and has a nice smell. https://www.youtube.com/embed/CatS9OnKh38?start=173&end=223

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Some useful videos - but if you read the Owner's Manual and refer to it when required you will know more about your car than many other long term owners.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. Generally not good, do check the battery and probably best to give it a FULL recharge with an appropriate battery charger as you can get all sorts of unexpected issues from the battery being low even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough and you have yet to see any warning lights or messages. Do consult the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. If you don't have the paper printed version, or want an electronic version, you can download a PDF version from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Also you can check for any Recalls VW have put out here. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns And to complete the set system updates here. - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Noises are difficult to explain, understand and track down, perhaps if you can do a video/audio of the noise. We have a rattle I think from an exhaust heatsheild under the car, perhaps that might be your issue. Whatever it is you want it investigating ASAP as 6-months warranty soon disappears. 30k-miles in 5-6 years is neither good nor bad as it depends on the type of mileage done, the service, maintenance and repairs done and how the car was driven - do you have any firm evidence of service, maintenance and repairs history at all? To help in future you could add your details to your name plate (I've no idea what it's called) at the side of your posts, for example as I have.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. One rule - check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) and the instructions for the charger. 1) Yes but it will take longer and you don't want to use a fast charger and your RAC might be too heavy duty, to comply with the Owner's Handbook a 70Ah battery will want a 7-amp charger but you could use an 8-amp, much better I've found is to use a 4-amp charger or 2-amp but very few people have the time and patience to use the lower amp chargers. ETA: Note what Warrior193 put about keeping an eye on using a "dumb" charger. - "1 - Yes, but I would not recommend 'Dumb' charger - if no other option, monitor battery carefully and do not leave charging unattended." Better to disconnect the battery from the car for charging or sometimes better still, especially if using a "dumb" charger, to remove the battery from the car and move it to a more stable environment, battery likes (+) 5C to 20C ambient temperature. I've just recharged my neighbour's very flat (standard battery) at (two point seven volts) 2.7V from his "classic" car, removed from the car for convenience. 2.7V is far, far too low for the modern "smart" 4-amp charger to start from so I used my 30+ year old 4-amp "dumb" charger and 20+ year old 4-stage 1.2-amp charger. It took 70+ hours to get it fully charged. A week after the charge, sitting in the shed it still shows as 12.8V, checked on two testers. Partially charged another neighbour's battery on the 2011 BMW still fitted to the car in the boot, no choice as he'd busted some bracket. 3.4V (three point four volts). 24 hours later using the modern "smart" charger and 30+ year old 4-amp "dumb" charger the battery wasn't fully charged but it the car had to go to it's new home, I've no idea how long that battery will hold its charge. 2) As above. 3) As above, but it depends on how "dead" or flat the battery is. Avoid fast charging. A battery is flat at 11.7V modern "smart" chargers may not try to charge a battery below 10.7V or some at below 6V or others at below 3V - read the instructions or specifications to find out which do what. Keep your old charger, find out what amperage charger it is (label on the back) but also buy a 4-amp modern "smart" charger and maintainer that also covers EFB, AGM, Lidl had some for £15, the Ring RSC804 charger and maintainer I bought was £23.49 or I think C-Tek are(?) £50-£70. I'd recommend you don't let your battery get low, best not to go below about 12.3V (allow for inaccuracies if using a cheap multimeter) and I would always charge to 100% / "Full" on the charger, if charging on, or off, the car check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) and the instructions for the charger. For jump starting, particularly off another vehicle, check the instructions for the car (Owner's Manual) getting it wrong could bring a lot of tears. 😭

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Last thread I saw with something like this is was some like the connector or wires to a rear sensor, always working checking such things as a no cost item, perhaps wiring/connection at the gearbox(?). What type of gearbox is it as that might make a difference. With electrics it's often wires and/or connectors, then perhaps the actual units but of course there's also the computers and their programs also on modern cars, so on to scan tools. You can listen if the rear sensors are working - "confirmed by switching the ignition (but not the engine) on and putting my ear against each sensor in turn. You should be able to hear a faint clicking sound a few times per second from all 4 of the sensors." Don't know if this might help you. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499513-parking-sensors-not-working/#comment-5646491 See also 'Similar Content' at bottom of this page. Hopefully someone will be along that know something about your issue. Full marks for looking at the Owner's Manual.

Andy, if you want to, it might help with posts if you put more car details and location on your name plate thingy, as in -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I've had to do it but it's not a good idea and potential for accident/injury. I'd also prefer the extendable wheel nut wrench. Previously extend to undo and retracted to do up but now at 88ft lb I might need to nip up extended. Such a laugh to watch a tyre place use a torque wrench after a 200-300 air rattle gun. Having put that for 30+ years I generally didn't always carry a/the spare wheel, jack and brace - but that's another discussion/debate. 🙃