Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You've done it now you've mentioned the bloody silly VW bolts, instead of wheel studs, that gave me Sciatica which apart from totally p1ssing me off also reminds me to recommend the use of TWO Fitting Removal Alignment Tools instead of trying to balance the wheel on the *!&£%^"$ stupid centre ring. Two of these should be in the car's tool kit. - The VW wheel bolt system is literally a PITA to me. 🙃 I can laugh about it at the moment but not always for the first half to hour after getting out of bed many mornings.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. My wife's 2015 gets this, started fairly recently but was a squeak before this. I've yet to investigate - but it better not be the front damper (or road spring) as the front dampers were a distress (and extremely annoying) purchase and replacement two MoTs back. Very disappointing to find the VW front dampers are so short-lived and the replacements were "misting" at less than a year old and considered an MoT failure at the independent garage - yet weren't even an MoT Advisory at the Dealership that fitted them. I think the croak to be more likely to be an engine or transmission based on when the squeak was - but of course it might be two, or more, different things causing a croak that now covers a squeak(s). If there's nothing obvious to see what I will do to try locate the source of the croak is spray some GT85 on one bush at a time and drive the car over some humps and see if the noise differs (or disappears). If it stops I'll see how long before it returns and decided from there. German engineering quality. 🤣

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Different nuts can be required if a spare steel wheel is carried on some "classics" cars that have alloy (often Minilite copies) fitted. As we well know the German car manufacturers can have some 'rare' ideas, years ago a chap from one of the breakdown services told me about a Porsche two-seater model where it had a space-saver wheel but then there was no room for the full-sized wheel to be carried. Like you I'm only going on what I was told.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry I went off on a tangent I was thinking of the design of the car having 14" wheels all round on the car not just as a spare but of course if some bigger sized brakes are on then not with those, the idea of the wheel size being to support the weight of the car and clear the brakes, allowing for cooling. I'll edit the post. Cheers.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No certainly not and many might be very happy with them, just if you're aware of it you can give it the consideration you want to if you want to, before buying the car or specifying the make up of a new car or swapping smaller wheels for larger wheels (to fill the wheel arch more). Just about all vehicles are a fashion decision to a greater or lesser extent. If you only know of oversized wheels then they don't seem oversized and you accept them and perhaps go for bigger must be better and keep up with Audi-Jones and think very low-profile tyres with their problems are just low profile tyres and accept the issues. But it's all pretty insignificant in the general overall vehicle ownership. 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Below, direct link to post* and its pdf. ETA: click on the top part of link below, with the circled A and 15 May, 2020 or - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/426096-error-service-leave-vehicle-only-when-selector-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5399919 RCRIT-19V615-0044 (1).pdf HTH

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Andy, just to let you know the link is missing from your post.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yes it is quite correct not to believe all you read on forums but unfortunately it's very true not to always believe all that you are told by the motor trade. It's perfectly possible to have faults without fault codes, I can understand that a garage will want to confirm what the fault actually is but they should also take into account any information you give them and it appears to be a known problem to them if other customers have reported the same message to them. Have a look at this thread particularly the following posts on this thread.- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5683796 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5685526 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/505730-weird-error-message-only-leave-vehicle-in-position-p/?do=findComment&comment=5678753 HTH

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Whichever different sized spare wheel and tyre is chosen it should be used with caution with the three other full-sized wheels and tyres, a get you home or to the garage or tyre place only, below 50 mph - though I'd not got that fast (or carry or use a space-saver type but that's another contentious personal view of mine. 😁 ETA: my wife's 1.2 TSI (90) runs on four 185/60r15 factory sized tyres.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @toot we agree on most things but the fashion for oversized wheels and tyres and we drift apart. 😄 It's different strokes for different folks.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Click on the 'Tyre Comparison' tab and you can enter the tyres size fitted to your car (as 'Size 1') and then enter a second tyre size to see differences. Very silly oversized imo 215/40 r17 tyre (and wheel) is just about spot on the same turning size as a 185/60 r15 (and nearer than the 195/55 r15 is). ETA: Not as a spare wheel for this car but generally subject to brake size. A 14" wheel would be fine on a Fabia but the fashion for decades has been to have a lot higher and wider wheels than required and with with lower profile tyres than required and now many owners are finding on our third-world roads that dropping a size can give practical benefits whilst retaining some fashion appeal.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. No harm in topping up the battery each weekend if required, and if it takes 4-5 hours then it was needed. I've found some "smart" chargers can more fully charge than others well at least on a battery that is very, very low (or "dead" to many). General advice seems to be to not let the battery get below 12.3V (at the battery posts a few hours after parked up and allow for variance if using a very cheap multimeter) though Banner Batteries put it at 12.5V. If the charger goes into maintain / float after full you don't need to worry about it and you might as well leave it connected for as long as possible or reasonable. Be interesting to see how many more years you get out of the battery (you can never fully recover early injury(ies)), VWSkoda want us to renew at 5 years, but then many won't even get that far. Good luck and all the best.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. ? I'm confused, this is - General SKODA Forum - General Maintenance, not Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013).

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Sorry you've lost me there, is your Owner's Manual dated 05.2017 or 11.2017, which page number tells you to take it to the Dealer so that I can get a clearer idea of what you mean rather than what I think you mean. You will also need to give more details about your vehicle (manual or auto), I was thinking you wanted to lock the car from inside by pressing the central locking button on the dash.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Glass etching was quite popular a long time ago here the UK, the registration (plate) numbers were put on in earlier times, don't see etching so much now although it is still available. Where a lot of the older (and newer) cars go after being stolen I do not think they would care about matching numbers on anything. If it is not expensive to do then perhaps it might deter some, how many is a different matter you might be better asking vehicle thieves than those selling the service.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. As has been plus, what servicing and maintenance work do you have proof has been done? Was the battery checked for state of charge and state of health, is it the original factory battery or has it been changed? Was the alternator also tested? Did the local garage have a scan tool suited to VW systems? When the spark plugs were changed was the air filter also changed? As has been put you could fill with a couple of tankfuls of E5 labelled petrol for the cleaning additive packages and when the engine is fully warmed (check your oil temperature for 90c, ignore water temperature than will show 90 before oil) give the car a good (but sensible) blow out run, lower gears with higher revs over a reasonable distance journey on roads that can also exercise the gears/clutch, steering and brakes, it'll also help you learn the car.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If that doesn't work try this from the 2014/5 Owner's Manual. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 2017's too modern for me, what's it say in your Owners Manual? Any setting altered on a menu that excludes the interior button - Safelock.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Are you sure it's not the hose(s) or hose clips to the matrix. I've no idea about the Felicia matrixes but with the old British cars some might think of the matrix are they were a real pain to get out but checking the hose connections would often save the work as few of those matrix leaked even after after 70 years - just about everything else might leak on those cars though.

@Nirrain I'm all for the slower 2-amp charging and have personally found the higher 10 or 12 amp chargers more likely to kill a battery that is in a very low state. Yeah time is a key ingredient but I do wonder about these less expensive "smart" and multi-stage chargers I don't think they're necessarily smart enough to sort some batteries in certain states out and you have to fool or cheat them (in true VW fashion) often to even start the charging. I see the chargers as more for use of top ups and preventative charging more than reviving batteries that are very low. If you still can(?) on a 2018 what about trying disconnecting the start/stop bit at the negative post and running the car without it. Otherwise as you've put if the car's not used a lot more recharging or trickle charging or disconnect the battery (as long as it does not freeze up). - https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/know-how/car-battery-conditioners-and-trickle-chargers-everything-you-need-to-know/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I think I've probably got you beat on this game of trumps as until last August the previous 30+ years I was using BL 60s/70s cars as dailies whilst also having new and s/h English very low volume made cars and putting up with the UK motor trade so whilst I have been very disappointed by the quality of some of the parts on the car I can't think that generally they're that bad, certainly not as good as as they could or should be but not disastrous. I agree the manual isn't always well written and misses a lot of information I'd expect to see but VW have their own strange ways like with their oil specs and not weights, not listing fuse amperages. You might already know you can download a free pdf copy from here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Are you sure there where no loads, computers and other stuff, if so that's around only around 50%-60% charge. I've no idea how accurate those plug-in things are and whether they help much, didn't help my mate when he left his heated front screen on and it drained the battery just as he going into France. With the tyres going down, are the wheels and tyres the original factory issue, tyres sealed to rims, valves not leaking or cracked - you know all the usual stuff, are you bouncing along the kerbs to guide yourself home, playing smack-a-mole with all the potholes. You know how important the battery has been on cars but now they're even more important, more so on a 2018 than a 2015 and even more so on a 2022 than a 2018. The German marques including VW have very complex, invasive, intertwined computer programs, they rely on the battery not being too low. So sort your battery charge and you will lose many of the problems you have. As you probably well remember the heat effects batteries but was shown up more in the UK when the weather got cold in winter but the effects were from the summer heat as with last summer here 40.2c here. If you don't like the start/stop, if it's possible on a 2018, why not just disconnect it from the battery negative connection. - As for the the Front Assist is that you have already turned it of, sorry but you'll just have to RtM. ETA: sorry I forgot the sensor wasn't working. Get the battery FULLY recharged with an appropriate charger better I feel off the car and a 2-amp charge for as long as required to get to proper full, possibly very many hours, then back on the car to cycle it's use as it's designed for and if the car is going to sit up for a long time either disconnect the battery from the car or use an appropriate maintainer mode or charger. Get the battery properly FULLY recharged and see how you go from there, refer to the Owner's Manual for charging and reset requirements if you disconnect the battery. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

@Nirrain as the car is not being driven a lot but could be needed at short notice lets try a different approach, Looking further at the manual for the battery charger you have it is undersized in its capacity, it is not the 2-amp but the 60Ah and 32Ah in "Maintain" mode . How about replacing it with a different charger that is capable of charging a 12v battery above the 70ah you have now and for convenience go to a 4-amp charger and maintainer. From the pdf of the manual for your charger. - How good your battery is now is difficult to know so that makes it more difficult to know how much your problem is related to the battery or the car and in what proportion. I'm not sure about the accuracy of doing your test and if you do the battery is as it is at the moment.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Give it a little while and you should get plenty of posts and help there. Strange that the section didn't open for you as it's been fine for me but you're there now. Good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. On your 2-amp charger once it shows full then does it go into maintenance mode which is only keeping it topped up to that full so the 48 hours does not really matter once you remove the charger as whatever the full is it is not being added to in that 48 hours. If your car is parked up for for 5 days could you remove the battery from the car to fully recharge it on your 2-amp charger in more stable and perhaps warmer conditions in home (I have no idea where you are and how cold it is). Then you can check what full is and how it holds over a period of the next couple of days off the car. Once the charger shows full you can disconnect it and take a reading about 12 hours later after the battery has settled from the recharge and take another reading(s) 12/24 hours after your first reading with the battery rested and off the car. Charging the battery again to full will be good as you have used the car since the previous time so the battery has had the cycles it is designed for and you have discharge so you can top it up. Are you taking the voltage readings from your 2-amp charger as well as your multimeter? Do you have another multimeter to check the readings? Do you have access to a battery tester for state of charge and state of health?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. You would probably be better posting this in the Skoda Fabia Mk II forum you could cut and paste your post but adding engine code might help too, also adding more detail to your name plate on the left, similar to mine as it can sometimes save repeating information. Good luck.