Former

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Ah, yes, I've got another fail, not doing too well. The others system would be more expensive, perhaps something s/h from the leisure side more than car side. Remaining off target, I wonder if intermittent whether it might be water or damp related if the drain is when the car is not used, or chaffed. I remember seeing a video of some electric-tech looking for a drain on a modern VW bug that others could find and he found a few drains but could get below the mA of normally forget about it and had to leave it just above the threshold as he'd already spent so long on it, just shows how much searching these things can sometimes take. I remember yo putting about a single wire from the battery so expect you've remove any other PO stuff already that you've found. Be interesting to know what you find as the source(s), good luck.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Perhaps back on track, have any previous owners taken the car away from how it left the factory, changed or added items. If you're short on time perhaps a battery monitor of another sort might help, something that's reports on the battery consumption when no one is around (like those BM2) in case the drain(s) is something that wakes up when you're not around. Image from John H.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I did, I totally misunderstood I thought it appeared to be missing on the scan tool read out rather than missing totally from the car. 😄 I almost suggested a photo of the battery. Apologies @Tambohamilton. This what happens when an assumption (EFB - start/stop) is make and not checked - made an ass out myself, again. 🙃 Back to what or who stealing the electric then. They're not dead (well the Jag one would be I guess, I was literally walking passed and had the multimeter with me but that's another ballsache VW story best left) other two batteries were just coincidence. One in sick bay now will recover to serve again, if wounded and weakened. The BMW never got near to fully charged but my neighbour was packing everything away, engine running, auto-headlights on and the stereo ready to drive into rush hour traffic. I told him the charge wasn't even equivalent to a Chinese meal and the car would soon want more.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Have you ruled out the usual causes of condensation, the weather, where the car is parked and it's position, any damp or wet boots and dog blankets in the car, other stuff in the boot? My neighbours has two towel type mats in his boot area, they're great for getting condensation on the inside of the glass. For the last five winters or so I've noticed more condensation with the weather than the previous 35, moss or whatever the green stuff is on the concrete path, earlier starting, in late autumn this year and a different type of moss. We use Pingi dehumidifier bags and moist synthetic chamois (kept in a sealable food bag) along with the air-con and sunvisors to deflected the blown air back to the screen.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. 060 vao 1111111112 sounds OK. AGM not so fine as IIRC AGM is AGM Binary(?) for VW who refer to AGM in the 'coding' as "Fleece". The VW car's computer programs for charging and maintenance I guess would be different so you want EFB. EFB is nearer to a standard battery than an AGM is. At the risk of waffling, repeating and taking space with graphics, you'd go through the gate at number 19, as in. - varooom and others could tell you routes and names but the battery monitor is there and it does do stuff for the start/stop, to me there seems to be debate and uncertainty about exactly how much it does. Some disconnect the start/stop at the battery negative connector - yours is still connected? - As for alternator voltage that can depend on a number of things and how it might relating to any 'coding' perhaps but also the car running and battery state and electric consumption, temperatures, etc., the various figures would have my head spinning. Literally waiting on my neighbour's BMW to be collected to get my "smart" Ring charger & maintainer back, the battery originally showed 3.4v on my optimistic multimeter, the "smart" Ring wouldn't start the charging so I had to put my 30+ year old standard charger on to get to an indicated 10.6v on the "smart" Ring charger for it to take over. All is out in the open with bonnet up, easy to the replace the new Ring than the very old standard charger with a very useful needle gauge. At the same time in the shed another neighbour's battery off his "classic" car that he forgot to disconnect, 2.7v originally on the optimistic multimeter, that battery's stewing on my 20+ year old 4-stage 1.8(?) amp charger, that'll take at least 2 days to get the green light. 2009 XJ Jag the other week showed 0.45v (?!), I had to test a new 3v button battery I'd just bought to make sure my optimistic multimeter wasn't effected by the cold or was playing up.

Thanks. I'm very slightly colour blind (or so my wife says), plus of course difference in photos and screens (my neighbour is colour blind and can't see red, and he said he wired his (BL) Mini). So what colour is this then and amperage please?

You're lucky, VW and the other German marques thought it clever to make the computer programs more complex, intertwine and intrusive a few years late and a decade later and more and more (perhaps it helped hide cheats they were proven to have). My wife's 2015 is bad enough but a 2017 would be worse and I've no idea about a 2022. I'd not fancy a car from Covid times and still with chip shortages. My last car was from 1973 so your 2000 is modern to me. 😄

Is your fuse light blue or dark blue?

Very annoying, not as much as wrong/different locations and if you knew the amperage or colour you could also make more sense of it in right or wrong/different locations. IIRC (!! ??) the earlier Owner's Manuals gave more fuse info.

Thanks @varooom, I've stolen a copy of that to try to marry up to my wife's car sometime in the future or no doubt before when the when the need arises.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Lesley, sorry I forgot about the error code for the throttle body, as has been put that could just be reporting that's there's a problem rather than the throttle body itself is the problem. Can you remember the error code number? Also some systems are better with and clearing codes than others particularly going back 20+ years, sometimes it takes a few attempts to clear historical codes unless the cause is return of course. You would know better than I if the Dealership scanners go back as far as your car but unless a garage or person specialises perhaps they might not bother with the scanner programs going back that far. My neighbour's general scanner has done a few 2005 cars but only the complex BMW and Merc really gave lots of info and worked well but it is a general world wide program with over 150 makes a few I'd never heard of but ne knew.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Hi, welcome. VW don't seem great with fuse locations, or getting the Owner's Manuals to full English. If you wait @varooom will probably be able to give you the correct information, I've some but not checked if it's correct to my wife's 2015 Fabia SE. Whether the following post relates to your car I don't know but it reminded me of fuse location 44, see the last two paragraphs here and photo. -

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. I had an MX-5 (1.6) new at the turn of the last century that had on (steel wheels!!) some great Yokohama tyres good in the wet but too good in the dry for rear wheel drive movement so I swapped them for tyres very good in the wet and not so good in the dry, I'm a lot more cautious in the wet. The tyres supplied holding so well in the dry I think gave some driver's not so used to rear wheel drive who bought and drove the cars in spring, summer and autumn too much confidence so in winter and you'd see MX-5s off lampposts and trees. I'd better stop or I'll get told off for too much thread drift (without involving car drift). 😄

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Just a thought then, perhaps a new coolant temperature sensor might be required, ask the chaps on the Felicia section to make sure you get the right type - and you don't want to be changing the coolant temperature sensor just on my thought you need to carry out more diagnosis which the chaps can also help you with. I don't know how it relates to your coolant temperature gauge so again tell the chaps there all you can.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Yeap, I used to change my tyres in sets of four, if after a thousand miles I didn't like them I'd replace that set, no point having a performance vehicle with tyres you don't like and don't all perform as they should as a set - but those days are long gone.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Uhmm, either something is off with the throttle body, perhaps physically, or it really does need a reset but I thought by driving enough it would reset. There could other problem(s) / issues(s). Have you had a look to see if something has been left off or come off, not connected fully, anything broke or damaged - an air hose, pipe or connector leaking, electric wires damaged, scuffed or pinched, electric connector. Air intake and filter installed and set correctly. How do you feel about taking the car back to the mechanic and say what has happened, we can all make mistakes and it might be something very simple. You might be better starting a thread in the Felicia section as a couple of chaps from Greece are very knowledgeable on the cars and IIRC one done a video on cleaning the throttle body (but don't rely on my memory). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/90-skoda-favorit-skoda-felicia-skoda-fun-and-skoda-forman/

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. @MicMac sorry but it's not the way I am. If you don't like it don't be distracted by it scroll on by or put me on your 'Ignore list' which I think means you then don't see my posts or you could 'Report' me or my posts or get together with others and get me booted off the site. I hope this post was succinct enough for you.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Good news Steve. Keep an eye on your battery when required fully recharge it with your battery charger (a lot) sooner rather than later the battery could last a few years more perhaps. If you recharge the battery sooner it won't take as long to get to full recharge but stick with the long low slow recharge as that's usually more effective. You can't affect the past but you can the present and future. If you take a VW product like a (modern) Skoda to a garage with a few warning lights and messages on and testing the battery isn't among their initial assessments then they don't know the marque or are looking for more work than is perhaps necessary.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If your shed gets as cold as my shed gets then you might need to bring the bottle or can into the warm for a while before shaking well before use. Yeah it was funny, more ironic when you know it comes from my stalking troll, it did made me smile though.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Do you know if it's in the Owner's Manual for this model? I try to get owners reading the Owner's Manuals but the ones I've seen for the VWSkodas do seem to have a good few flaws, including the one for my wife's car, and the fuse locations as previously mentioned.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Up to you if you want to help others to help you. Give more information, a photo or just say which type of heater or air-con you have in the car, there might be a flap reset for the automatic versions, or you could do a search for repair or bodging of the flaps. If you add more of the car's details (1.6tdi CAYC and perhaps gearbox, trim level) to your name plate it would also help and save you repeating this info too often, see below.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. That is often not correct with many modern GL5, check the Fuchs datasheet it will say if it is safe with yellow metals, or contact them.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Meant to ask before, anything plugged into a 12v socket that perhaps turns itself on and off?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Gummi Pflege is just German for rubber care, it was something for VW fans would use until they found a more expensive alternative. For door seals and such I use AutoGlym Bumper & Trim Gel when finances allow or you can use silicone oil or even spray but some say the paint doesn't like silicone so you could go to my old standby of GT85 as its PTFE instead. I don't bother cleaning first anymore as I'm too lazy and not that bothered. Apply gel or oil, or even spray, with a 35mm cube of clean old sponge. The GT85 can also be sprayed on the hinges, locks, used as a releasing/penetrating fluid anything that WD-40 isn't as good at. At great personal risk I mentioned the 35mm cube so I might as well put up the photo of the can of GT85 I'm living dangerously today.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. If you post up your version of below we can see if there's anything obvious to the naked eye.