nta16

I thought I saw you are not supposed to use the vehicle daily - which to me is absolutely stupid as it means others don't see historic vehicles everyday, in proper use as they were designed for and used back in their day, rather than occasionally driven in a way unlike when they were used regularly, and highly polished and presented in a way you would rarely have seen them back in their day. It's not real history it's unrealistic history. But as always each to their own.

To me your graph shows a pretty fierce tune, about 250 Nm expected(?) at wheels stock to about 375 Nm expected at wheels APR stage 1(?) at 2,790 revs. You'd want the whole car including engine, turbo, brakes, suspension, tyres, etc. in very good condition and whole car fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired before starting that tuning, What exactly is in the APR Stage 1 tuning package, parts, tuning, what? What else on the engine or related to the engine has also been changed? For engine difference information you might be better looking on and/or asking on the ' Skoda Octavia Mk III (2013 - 2020)' forum - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk-iii-2013-2020/ or the 'Octavia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/207-octavia-projects/ Modern cars are all about the computer programs in them and VW have complex intertwined computer programs going back a good while, even VW don't seem to always get all of their computer programs right all of the time so errors in scan tool and tuning programs are possible, especially if applied to the wrongly. (Am I missing something) surely the tuners saved the car's previous programs as back up before putting their program on just in case something fouls up, standard computer stuff?

A 2019 car with 100,000 miles suggest it might have been used for longer journeys at higher speeds so if services and maintenance were kept up I am not surprised that the throttle is so relatively clean but not knowing the history of the car it could have done the 100,000 miles in say three years then had a year of short journeys on congested town/city streets in debris filled environments without being serviced or any combination or history, you don't know until you check. I have no idea about the GPF, they are not supposed to make any odds to the running but I wonder if the computer programming needed changing to accommodate them which might affect other program settings. You would have to ask VWSkoda and personally I don't think you would get much joy from doing that but you could try and I might be wrong as I often am. Even though the throttle is clean which is a good sign I would still check the air filter and spark plugs particularly if you have no certain record that they have been changed, neither may have anything to do with your revs issue but you want to prevent any other potential further issues, even live running scan tool results can only tell you so much and programmed parameters for some things can be quite wide. You could try doing and thoroughly looking at various live scan reports concentrating on various components that might cause or contribute this to this issue but it might be a long job, IIRC the numbers my wife's 2015 Fabia had 638(?) data points for the engine(?) and I would imagine a 2019 car would have possibly more, certainly more on the whole car than a 2015 model. I am not sure you will ever get to the bottom of this but again I might be wrong as I often am, good luck.

Many apologies, I've never even seen electric struts let alone know how they differ. For panels often some kind of plastic tool is best used but where and how much muscle you need on your car I've no idea. You may be best posting in the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum for more and better detailed replies. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ You could also see if the WSM is on here. - https://cardiagn.com/skoda/skoda-superb/

BTW (not that it matters and no need to reply) did you realise you've posted in the 'Hellos and Goodbyes' forum and not 'General Maintenance' or 'Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013)' forum. ( https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ )

Hi, welcome, The tailgate struts have a clip, no need to remove any panels. See the following video as an example. - HTH.

Doesn't have to be the bulb (with later cars at least) - though have you taken the bulb out to see if it's gone silver/smoked/black at all for incandescent or not all wotsits lit for LED? LED bulb quality varies a lot, incandescent replacement bulbs are generally poor quality and don't last now. Could it be a fault at holder, cluster board, connector, wires, computer program brain-fart(?)?. If it's a repeater try putting the hazards on without the engine running and check all are working OK, better still do that with the headlights, fogs, reverse, lights all on and pressing the brake lights on and off, to really test things, check all the lights remain bright and no changes with brake lights on and off.

Hi, welcome. Do you want this just for appearance or have you a high performance track car? You might be better putting the money towards a set of new very good quality tyres that will help with braking, steering, suspension, handling, road holding and possibly ride comfort and noise. You might also get more information about rear diffusers and perhaps better asking in the 'Fabia Projects' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Good luck.

Some makes of scan tools have info sent from users to help with updates, you might have to enable this feature, obviously the more users that have their reports sent to the scan tool maker that their programs have issues the quicker and better the updates with be. You can also I think send photos if you have a camera on the scanner. Some also have user forums that can be good. too. Many professionals (and non-professionals) are too lazy to carry out full updates and forget this when they plug into a make/model/year for a first time. I used to always update my neighbour's scanner before I borrowed it (and fully charge the battery) and some of the available updates were interesting, the files for the VW Phaeton were huge, not that we would ever see such a beast, and I guess more about halo/ego marketing for the scanner maker given the level of scan tool my neighbour had. And stuff for Asian market commercial vans from a brand I had never heard of, but my neighbour had as he has a very compressive motor car website. - https://motor-car.net/

As put, the computer programs are very complex and intertwined, as put, speed and braking are related to so many systems on/in the vehicle. Which is why you don't want to let the car's battery power drop to them, they don't like it and will make you suffer for that mistake. And that's not allowing for any errors or omissions in any of the vast amounts of computer programming on the vehicle. In the last week my wife told me it had finally happened, she was in town driving slowly and the front collision thing jumped on the brakes and threw up a warning for no apparent reason then she saw a bag blowing by in the wind, I'd predicted wrong I thought that would happen but with a large leaf. I might have been right when previously she told me the front anti-collision thing apparently said it was unavailable and later became available again. The "amber triangle of doom" dash warning light has come on a couple of times and I've found no fault and it's not bothered returning again. Then a couple of other times lit up too late when the issue has already been noted by the driver (but perhaps a good reminder for some non-drivers that passenger behind the steering wheel of the moving infotainment machine). I think it was Toyota (of all manufactures!) that had a model go into limp mode at a reported failure of brake light, but they sorted that. Telsa, computer experts, well where do you start with their cars and computer glitches (brain-farts, human or electronic) obviously as computer people they know all are entirely the fault of the users and not their machines or programming.

You may need to check where you are but there no reason why you can't do additional work and reset any reminders as long as the work done and items used are to warranty specification. Personally I take the German additional specification numbers with a pinch of salt - but my wife's car is not under warranty - good oil that meets the required specification is a good oil, VW (and others) will use and promote the oil (company) that they have a commercial contract with and then go on to change their own specification numbers and oil suppliers other the years and decades and possibly sales markets. A very good quality oil will protect more and for longer, it does not need any "long life" label. The oil change (along with other) schedules are merely based on mileage or time not the condition of the oil (and filter) and the oil may best be changed sooner or possibly even a bit later, it depends on so many variables. In the USA where oil is (even) more of a consumable they have places that change engine oil at 3,000 and 5,000 mile intervals.

A bit like but more than taking a live or earth supply to a component to see if actuates, if the component actuates then you can look for an issue in the power supply (or communication. All scan tools are only another diagnostic tool that require correct interpretation and conformation of the info they give, sometimes they point to the culprit but certainly not always, many using a scan tool might replace a part when it's merely shooting the messenger not solving the issue.

Uhmmm, I think, could well be wrong of course, that things are not added or removed so that they can be sold as extras in a soft-touch(ed) market like the UK. We used to have cars going and coming into the UK where many extras would be available to UK at extra cost but fitted as standard for say Japan and that "loaded" vehicle still at lower in Japan than the non-extras car in the UK.

On that theme you would want timely servicing , maintenance and repairs of the whole and beyond the VWSkoda limited "servicing" and "maintenance" schedules keeping well on top of all clean and lubricate stuff. For the engine that would be timely changes of engine oil and filter using very god quality oil for a sporty car and good quality oil filter, changing the air filter perhaps well in advance of VWSkoda schedules (in the UK at least) and spark plugs, Just because a part is working doesn't mean it is working as good as it could or should be and in relation to a performance model too. No need to wait if you do not want to, fill up the tank again now with 98 or 100. A problem is that you can soon get used to improvements and they become the norm and no longer improvements - at least until you have to drop to previous levels. Good luck

I wasn't joking when I put your observations would help others, particularly those thinking or looking to buy the model. Cruise control is another thing I don't like but until a couple of years ago I was driving a 1973 MG Midget so used to what was on it (very little) being fully manual/mechanical, this one did have cabin and boot light though, no additional electrics at all, and no real point having a radio/"stereo" let alone a clock/phone thingy. Personally I find the gear change feel a bit clonky but if not rushed (at all) it's fine for a family hatch/estate, I changed the gearbox oil and that helped a tiny fraction for a while at least. The interfering computer programs to me are a PITA and my wife said what I'd warned about finally happened the other day, whilst she was driving slowly in traffic the front anti-collision thing threw up a warning and jumped on the brakes for no apparent reason and then she saw a bag blowing in the wind. It showed as inactive before and then was OK I said probably a big leaf had got stuck to to the grille. Then there are the other over concern computer programs, but you get similar on all modern cars now. I also drive neighbours' cars, one a 2023 Ren-No! Nissan has all the modern auto stuff (and adaptive cruise control I believe) with start/stop/ electronic handbrake but being manual gearbox it's computer programs are like an over nervous driver that gets itself unnecessarily into very awkward situations whilst it divers about deciding what it should do and what it will allow the driver to do, lane-assist (as it says in the Handbook) has lots of requirements to work properly so is very hit&miss, off&on, so unreliable when perhaps really needed but very interfering when not needed, I've no idea if this id the same for VW products. I do very, very occasionally sit in the back and really like to have the windup windows, I do however occasionally wind the windows up and down again when I open the back doors to give them exercise to stop them sticking as the back seats and windows are so rarely used, same for the car horn so I know it works for MoT, I rarely use the horn other than humpback bridges and a blind areas. As I put you do as you please with your car and reporting back is very good and helpful to others.