nta16

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538501-12-tsi-cyvb-oil-leak-from-manifold/

If your resting battery is 12.6v (with alarm/locked/Krooklock etc. applied in garage) then that's great you don't need a new battery if it remains at that level for a reasonable time. The stop/start system has all kinds of conditions that have to be meet for it to be operative and as for the braking it might be a terminology thing. Please don't say you got any of your answers from A (artificial, yes) I (intelligence, it's not). See these from VW. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdfSSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdfSSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf

Does that still apply, that you can payback in under 14 days?

Paul you're over thinking it and possibly over complicating it (which would make you more employable with German car marques). Paul with your 14v and engine running you're really more measuring the alternator rather than the battery. Whilst the battery and alternator work as a pair, if one's weak it puts more strain on the other, as shown by the figures from others the computer system for charging and battery monitoring which will throw up various figures in various circumstances. As has been put a few engine starts does very little to a battery if it and the charging system are in reasonably condition and in fact as I've put the battery has to be very low indeed to have any difficulty starting the engine and you will hear this difficulty in starting. First thing to do is, as your preference, to fully and properly recharge your existing battery or buy and fit a new battery (and have it 'coded' in) and then go from there, have a solid foundation and start datum point. I would always fully charge the new battery to 100% before fitting it to the car - to give best solid foundation and start datum point. If I had your car and battery I would start by fully and properly recharging your existing battery, in the manner mentioned before in this thread, and go from there - you may want to chose differently, your car, your money, time and hassle (very easy clean hands work).

I've got a feeling if you get your ears close you can hear if the sensors are active, or record it on a phone. For Briskoda members that are VCDS owners that might be able to help see. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

The car's system is set to charge the battery to about 80% (it might be less but I've never seen a definite figure) leaving 20% headroom for regenerative charging for VW's lip-service to emissions, whether the car gets much of that 20% is a different matter. Which is why I always suggest using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the charger maintainer and (preventatively rather than reactionary) fully recharging the battery (as slowly as possible/reasonable) to 100% (not the car's about 80%). The battery tester may be upset with the VW programming, you could disconnect the battery and test it independent of the car or just take its figures with a shovel of salt. It depends on how you are using your battery monitor to get your morning reading but 12.6v would be very good for a VW stop/start car. Just plugging in a scan tool and turning the ignition on will probably give a 0.3+V drop to the battery reading. Up to you but I would suggest putting the consumerist big boys sexy tools like the battery tester to one side (and forget the OBDEleven for this) and fully 100% recharging the battery as above, and then as many hours as possible after finishing fully recharging put multimeter probes directly on to the battery terminal posts and take a reading (engine not running), note it. Then use the car for a few days and take another reading in the same manner as before. Remember the car will want to drop the battery charge level to about 80% and that bonnet up the car's systems might give a drop of 0.2-0.3v or possibly more on a 2022 car. Use a multimeter, forget the battery tester (and OBDEleven) and report back to see about, if wanted or required, doing simple drop/strain tests on the battery with just the use of the multimeter and glamorous assistant to start the engine a number of times in quickish succession. Am I right in thinking your Octavia vRS is diesel with DSG? Let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Great that you are able to give and take, good luck.

Hi, welcome. On this site are plenty of sections and threads relevant to VWŠkodas and Fabia and general subjects with lots of advice and experience from model owners and others. Good luck.

John as I've said before don't put all your eggs in the basket of scanner, or battery testers, and simple maths (not that I can do even very simple maths now). It's a bit like someone who makes a cake and accurately measures all the ingredients out exact yet their cake isn't as good as someone who goes by their experience for the amount of ingredients they use rather than accurately or even measuring. You have enough experience to know what and when the battery might need, perhaps a quick check with multimeter probes on the battery terminals. I'm very much with Warrior193's idea that leaving the battery charging all to the car's charging system, rather than using an appropriate charger maintainer to get to 100%, shortens the useful service life of the battery. Whilst I don't like to change a battery prematurely it's always best to change it before it really "dies" on you and can't be recovered. I changed the EFB battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia prematurely just to eliminate any possibility of her having any hassle from it as that would have meant me having to get involved with the car (yeah, that didn't last).

I've missed something here, which is the secondary battery do you mean these jump starter things that are another fashionable consumerist item that most people don't (or perhaps shouldn't) need?

6-amp fine, 4-amp, or lower, possibly better for general use. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Even if you can afford it changing the battery every 4 years for your car and use is a waste of money and resources, just use an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for the charger maintainer. As you have got the battery to such a low state of charge that it can't start the engine it will take very many hours to recharge (with an appropriate charger as above, the oner hour engine running might or might not be sufficient). Even if you fit a new battery you will still be best to but an appropriate charger maintainer and use it proactively (preventative charging, perhaps always as a maintainer). A new battery is just an energy store and can be emptied, though it should recover more and more quickly than an older worn battery. Think of it this way, your local government pension could be good and certainly when you first got it but then you might start spending it more on gambling and loose women and severely deplete it and it might become insufficient to fully cover you want and needs. Ring RSC804 (previous model) being used preventatively on my wife's 2015 stop/start Fabia, with replaced AGM battery, overnight on a very cold (IIRC -4c) winter's night next early morning ready for the 2-miles journey to work (a number of years ago, I forget).

Quick thoughts - engine mounts (more noticeable on acceleration or braking perhaps), misfire perhaps on the three cylinder engine, could be lots of other thing though. You don't get much with VWŠkoda Dealership servicing and maintenance schedules but have the spark plugs been changed. IIRC 1.0 mpi engines had a weaker gearbox but that is a different gearbox to the 1.0 TSI.

Hi, welcome. On this site as well as the Octavia Mk4 forum there are are other sections and forums where information and advice is available from real world experience of the owners and others. See Octavia MK4 and 'General Automotive Chat' forums ('the truth about electric cars' as just one example) and sections. Good luck. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/

A good number of points there. Quick thoughts - battery tester may be accurate, or pessimistic or inaccurate what is the low voltage that the OBDEleven gives, bearing in mind the OBDEleven and car's operating computer will be dropping the reading, have you checked and confirmed the reading with multimeter direct to to battery posts for the engine not to start fine the battery will have to be very low in state of charge if there are never any issues with the stop/start then at those times the battery should be in a reasonably good state of charge 1000kms a week depends on the journeys and electric use during those journeys and outside of those journeys, VW's system is going for about 80% charge if you're not doing a lot of braking (coasting?) then the extra 20% doesn't necessarily get filled an AGM battery may be better suited but the EFB should be able to manage more than 2 years 7 years out of an AGM in the Passat might not be particularly long life or it might be good, depends a lot on some variables including car's consumables available and how much electric is consumed with use, a 9 year old VW is different to a 2 year old VW. My conclusion thoughts - possibly that's how things are with a 2 year old Octavia vRS don't always put too much faith in some battery tester results there might be a fault on (design, build, program) or with the car (programing, part, drain) over consumption of the electricity available by driver (and passenger(s)) possible need for preventative (proactive) charging of the battery with appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the appropriate charger maintainer. (by the way, for info only, your 'Author's stats' and 'signature' still show your "2017 VW Passat BiTDI 240bhp 4motion ( remapped 290bhp")

If you have the cash to pay off the loan and interest straight away don't mention this to the salesperson/garage as they may will lose commission on this by having to pay back the finance commission. Check the terms of any agreement as to the costs of early settlement. It used to be that many people with the cash would take advantage of theses offers and then for various reason not settle straight off to avoid interest and the finance company would get some or lots of interest but buyers are more sophisticated now so the finance companies claw in what they can, if not from the car buyer then the car seller. If paying say £100 interest gets you an initial saving of say £1,000 (or £101) then it could be worthwhile, but say a £100 interest only initially saves £99 then not so good.

😆 After I put that I thought I'm not sure it is a DDG but I'll leave it in case. I doubt it's the manual gearbox but never excluded anything, other than its a DSG. 😀 6 year old Dunlops you'd hope wouldn't be too noisy but who knows, a name means little now.

The Yanks also have used other types of batteries on their "classic" cars and bikes for a few years now not just AGM. Just a note a below par battery on these modern VW products has to be very, very below par to cause engine starting problems. However a battery being below par can cause all sorts of unexpected warning messages and lights, unseen error codes and issues with the car, as has been shown by very many threads and posts on many models and ages of vehicles on Briskoda alone. Also shown is that properly recharging the battery (or replacing for some) can sometimes, depending on the actual cause(s, )totally resolve things as again shown in many threads and posts on Briskoda alone. Of course the state of charge and health of the battery isn't always the cause of issues on the car, many design, build, parts and programing errors have been shown to be the cause(s). Getting VWŠkoda Dealerships to find (let alone admit) to some of these causes is another matter. For proper diagnosis you need the battery to be in as good a state of charge and health as possible, or reasonable, otherwise the diagnostics could be hindered, this has always been the case even before the over-complex systems, and computer programs, that the German marques have favoured going back many decades but more so with a very modern example. Previously on Mk3 Fabias there was a period of a relay (hard wired to a board) not up to cold weather preventing the car from starting so internment, some members of Briskoda had to discover this for themselves and a couple at least carry out the repair themselves as the Dealerships were no help in finding the issue or if they did were able to offer an expensive repair.

IIRC the Americans have been using AGM, instead of "ordinary", batteries on their old 1960s and 70s "classics" cars for very many years and obviously without any of the cars having battery monitoring computer systerms.

Nearest I could get from Lidl UK was IAN 383685_2110, model ULGD 5.0 C1 - 2486, year 2022/35. https://media.sit-connect.com/public/articlemanual/ae9b8786-ac8b-45d8-93d3-d7b8339be425.pdf

As the unit has changed over the years but kept the same name out of interest what IAN number does yours have? Yesterday I had to repair the charging leads on my neighbour's 12 year old Aldi charger (Auto XS CPL 2054) as the leads had been wrapped and stored badly, tested it on my wife's car for 15 minutes or so and it seem to register its progress, that cost £15 at the time (I didn't realise it was quite as long ago as as 12 years but time passes quicker as you get older). As I've put before he has successfully used that many times over the years as their 1992 Merc sees very little use for a number of years now. On my wife's 2015 Fabia with AGM battery, and other cars, I use, and recommend, a Ring "smart" (they are not of course) 4-amp charger maintainer now superseded by the Ring RSC904 which has always done very well. I also use a 30+ year old 4-amp "dumb" inexpensive charger and 20+ year old "smart" of the time 1.8-amp, middle expense, charger maintainer. Even with those three and lots of time and patience and some experience some people can get their batteries beyond much reasonable further use, other than out of the car.

Here they are. -

Too late at night for me to look at figures in text but the Ultimate Speed ULGB 5A sounds very disappointing, perhaps they're not as well made as they used to be or different a manufacturer(s) were used previously or now. I've previously put up illustrations on Briskoda from this charger, I'll find them and post here later.

With eBay item you can delete the address(?) route(?) after the "itm" number for shorter address direct to the item. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/366086956551

Prey do tell then, wot is it about, mate.

Thanks. Sorry, HTH means Hope That Helps, (internet?, text? jargon abbreviation). I'm either Nigel or nta16. Pity the road springs are no longer made of real steel and last many decades instead of years, but such is progress (and saving fractions at production).