nta16

These technologies like Tw*tNav circle back from their optimum point of development to acting a bit like when they were newer. Watching the screen looking for the 5(?) satellites before fully loading up and this could be from 5-10 seconds to to minutes to drop out again and start again after seconds or minutes of use. You used to be able to tap the buttons to get the Tw*tNav to take you a reasonable route rather than always taking you from somewhere like Northampton to the M25 to go to Scotland. If the right address is put in these modern Tw*tNavs will get you there but not always by the best route. "Classic" MG (and current Mk3 Fabia) (previous, updates available) Tw*tNavs.-

If you have a look at battery threads here you will see I recommend first try fully (slow) charging the battery with an appropriate battery charger following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and instructions for charger. This may take many hours (10, 20, 30+ hours) so time and patience are required. If it can't be fully charged in one go then do it in two or three but get the battery to fully charged as the car aims for about 80% charge not 100%). The engine start is about the last thing to go the battery has to be really low but the computers will complain and throw up all sorts of warning messages and light, unseen error codes and unexpected issues and problems - even if the headlights seem bright enough. With any electrical, or other, problems you want the battery to be in as good state of charge (and health) as it can be to help with diagnostic and not hinder diagnostics by a low state of charger (and/or health). The 12.5v might have been a surface charge reading from the alternator running, best to take such a reading as many hours after the engine hasn't been run and allow a drop of 0.2v-0.3v from all the computer systems doing their job even when the ignition isn't on. Sounds like, all being well, that you have a standard battery (I forget what make) so if you look here for what battery is in other 2019 TSI Fabias yours will probably have the same battery, or just look it up on battery/parts suppliers, again plenty of threads and posts on battery replacements. HTH.

Hi, welcome. (I will 'Report' your post to a Moderator to suggest moving it to the Fabia Mk3 section). 2017 Fabia owners will know more than me, my wife's 1.2 TSI 90 is from 2015. If it's a factory original battery then AFAIK it'll be a EFB type battery, if the battery has been replaced then who knows. I don't think you can remove the battery insulation wrap cover unless you disconnect the battery terminals to look at the side of the battery for any label, which I guess you'd not want to do (altho' instructions for disconnecting and reconnect the battery are in the car's 'Owner's Manual' or we could advise on how to do this.) Using a scan tool would only tell you what was last programmed in as the battery which may or may not be accurate to what is actually fitted. Do you have any paperwork with the car to suggest the battery has been changed? Why is it you want to know this information? As already suggested there is lots and lots of information in the Fabia Mk3 section about the 12v battery, many posts and a couple threads from me too. Let us know if you need more help, HTH.

It's under warranty, report it and book it in, check all computer updates have been done on the car (although these might also introduce as well as solve issues), check if there are any Recalls or service bulletins about this and any other stuff on the car. On a 2025 car it could be so, so many things, actual (for want of a better word) or computer (or programs) related. The two issues mi9ght be separate or related. 800 miles on a car that's at least ,near enough, 4 months old could suggest a 12v battery in low state of charge and the computers certainly don't like that and a low state of charge on the battery certainly won't help regardless of cause(s) to the issues. Good luck.

Whatever VCDS reading can be checked with a multimeter or, second choice by quite away, another scan tool or battery tester, I would check.

Depends on which Chinese company and which manufacturing place is used and their level of quality control at any particular time, some Chinese suppliers/manufacturers come and go so much with what they make or remain in that business or what contracts they have at the time - often a bit of a gamble with varying risks.

ETA: low mileage also possibly means more gear changes, shorter journeys, more colder running.

It depends on you. If you intend to keep the car a long time from now you might consider it. I changed the gearbox oil on my wife's Fabia 2015, 5-speed manual gearbox, countless mechanics, DIYers, engineers told me this is unnecessary and they are correct if I didn't care about how well the car might go in old age and accept an old car will be not as good as a younger car and put up with it. I also changed the manual gearbox oil to very slightly improve the old crude VW gearbox design and build gear change. I have changed gearbox and back axle oils on very old cars and been told it's a waste of time yet I have always found improvements, usually only slight but sometimes more so and always noticeable but those were cheap and easy jobs not modern scan tool required jobs that required plenty of attention and more time and patience. If I had a DSG (I never would) I would change the gearbox oil(s) and get a good reliable VW independent to do the work, possibly one that works on modified or motorsports cars as hopefully they are used to such work and hopefully work to higher standards. If you are going to be selling the car in the next year or three then you could more easily risk not bothering, or you could forget about it and the box could well be fine to the end of the car's life. Do more research and decide for yourself.

I assume the DVD is your cheap plug in thing, and bottom figures are from VCDS, have you also confirmed figure where you can with a reasonable quality multimeter? The 5-amp charger should increase its voltage reading as it goes along unless the battery, charger or car (or any permutation or combination) have a problem(s). Again an assumption, you are following the charging instruction in the car's and charger's manual, for VW stop/start the charger's negative lead and clip goes to the body earth and not battery post so the controlling computer system knows what's going on. Yesterday I charged my neighbour's battery on their 2016 non-s/s car that had a replacement AGM battery fitted a couple of years ago (presumably as the car is an auto gearbox and car get so little use) and the 4-amp "smart" charger showed 12.4v before starting and still took 10-11 hours to fully charge. I use battery tools with computer systems as a guide not as the be all and end all, a few times a battery tester has said the battery had had it and replace, this reporting was premature and more useful life was gained from the battery by patient recharging. Of course some batteries have been flogged to death far too often and/or for too long and might not be suitable for reliable longer term use on a VW stop/start car, particular the younger cars with electronics for everything just short of wiping the driver's, er, nose. 🙃

Just in case you've not seen this in Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale section. "Felicia spare unused pipes 6U0819361D And 6U0819371D Discovered during a shed tidy up, sadly the Skoda is long gone."

Cinch is just another part of another company and group using different marketing and sales methods, bit like going into a supermarket and seeing a vast choice and range of one product when probably they all come from the same few main company producer, marketing illusion of choice and company benefits with taxes and closing companies down, selling or moving them more easily when they are made up of different bits. Cinch is one of the brands of Constellation Automotive Group, others are BCA (British Car Auctions), webuyanycar and Marshall Motor Group, which have their own sub-divisions of companies. -https://www.constellationautomotive.com/our-brands In Northampton, Cinch is located next door to Marshall Škoda. As with anything in the UK motor trade their are horror stories about many Dealership providers and the likes of Cinch but also satisfied and happy customers, some companies are better than others and some of the employees of bad companies are good and some employees of good companies are bad - as always buyer beware. As I put before, lots more information in many threads and posts on the Fabia Mk3 section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ Before you even get the car (best before even buying the car) read and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manual' by downloading a free pdf VWŠkoda copy from their site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Good luck.

Depending on his settings he would get the notification of being quoted in the post but putting the @ directly in front of AGFalco is the most(?) certain way.

Just in case AG Falco isn't around in time to help, you can get build spec for a euro or two from eBay supplier, then if needed look up all the codes. With service history from VWŠkoda UK Dealerships and UK HQ I think you have to be the actual owner but of course the 'Complete record' or service record will only list what has been put on it and not DIY or others' work without access to the system.

Not to my taste by a long way but interesting.

Perhaps the contract for Hella to supply VW expired so marking not allowed and need to remove(?), Hella is big enough not to want to upset the likes of VW. China can make enormous profit and still sell items at very extremely low prices whether it upsets any company or not and VW were desperate to be in China, who will soon own VW no doubt. You can make up your own seals, it's not like you remove the light cluster very often either. You certainly don't paint a very inviting portrait of Greek cities, but then I expect many cities all over the world are the same, too many people wanting to be a too smaller area, yet more and more people want to be in cities!

Just realised I forgot about the clutch on 1.0 MPI manuals, on earlier years at least the clutch was weaker than on 1.0 TSI but how long clutches last depends on the car use, lots of short journeys means more gear changes than higher mileage motorway use, and some drivers are very heavy on clutches and some are very light. VW four cylinder engines aren't the quietest or smoothest sounding engines so those with one less cylinders are a bit more raucous still especially when push on a bit up the rev range. But it all depends on what you are used to and if you have the noise and distractions of radio, phone, T*atNav, etc.. You need things like cold morning starts and labouring or going fast up steep hills with gear changes to test for faults. If you know anyone with a suitable scan tool you can check for error codes not deleted or current error codes not causing any warning messages or lights. Cinch seem to price the cars a bit on risk element they might present with lack of history and best to take any number of checks claimed to have been made on or about the car from any car seller generally with a large (shovel load with some) of salt and many are happy to sell in ignorance. Buyer beware.

If you can check the battery or get someone to do that for you, particularly if the battery is factory original, loads and loads of info on this in the Fabia Mk3 section. If you keep the car you might want to get an appropriate battery charger maintainer to do occasional preventative charges as battery state of charge and health are very important to these VW stop/start cars. If it is a manual gearbox get an experienced driver who knows a bit about mechanics to check with you that the gear changes and generally driving are OK on the gearbox, a VW or better still Fabia Mk3 1.0 MPI is ideal as generally VW boxes are fine but certainly not the most sophisticated when good. Check that all the functions on the car's Infotainment work and aren't playing up in anyway. Reading and referring to the car's 'Owner's Manual' will help with this and everything else on the car. If you read it and refer to it during your ownership of any vehicle you can save yourself time, money and hassle and unnecessary visits to garages, mechanics and auto electricians and you will also know more about the vehicle than many long term owners. You can read and refer to the car's manual(s) right now even before you get the car by downloading a free pdf VWŠkoda copy from their site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models You can also check if there are any outstanding Recalls by going to the UK gov MoT history page, which I hope you done before buying the car. - https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history Also if you have the VIN you can heck VWŠkoda's own page. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns I don't think Cinch care about service history but you want to, 36k-miles over say 6 years is average 6k-miles per year so a reasonable average but still on the low side which is good for some parts of the car and not so good for others particularly if that mileage is made up of lots of short journeys which is not good and wearing on mechanicals particularly. You can get a full service history of what is recorded on the system from a Skoda Dealership called "Complete record". If full and complete it should have 3 brake fluid changes, brakes, which include tyres, are the most important things on a car, not the engine or gearbox or anything else. The engine air filter should have been changed at least once. Engine oil and changes should have been done every 12-months and you want to continue this, but as I've put the engine isn't the most important part of the car the brakes are which include the tyres (which are also important to steering and suspension, road holding, ride comfort and noise). Get someone who knows about cars to have a good look at the car and rides (plural) or (if appropriate) drives (plural) in different weather and driving conditions and if you aren't happy with the car consider rejecting it. Lots more information in many threads and posts on the Fabia Mk3 section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/166-%C5%A1koda-fabia/ Good luck.

I'm surprised more members haven't posted given the subject and forum. But some very good points about what's involved and the extremes of the vehicles, their costs and conditions they're used and kept in. Also their actual, perceived and emotional value by the car owner and person doing the actual work. The theatre of it all also gives an indication. Some might think a car used for motorway driving regularly and/or kept outside and not in a heated and dehumidified garage needs the cleaning more, others it doesn't and save such stuff for vehicles that are driven but also shown to others on the street or organised. It's also what level you are happy/bothered to keep the appearance to and at. I guess a 2011 Superb paint and other bits are about the same as a 2015 Fabia and I'm not bothered by the appearance of my wife's 2015 that has sat outside all its life and not got much cleaning or to a higher level (particularly when the Dealership cleaned it). I know some here wouldn't be at all happy with its level of appearance, even perhaps after they have cleaned, polished and detailed it. So as put, whoever owns the car, looks after it or pays for the work should do what pleases them. Whatever level you work to or achieve for some it will be too low and for others excessive. There might be a case if you can't be bothered with too much cleaning yourself to employ someone else a few times a year to a level that you are happy with but you must get recommendations and a quote as like all professions (and DIY) different people work to different standards and for professionals at different costs to you, in money, time and sometimes hassle. Good luck.

Generally people put far too much faith in an MoT. Best to remember even a strict and genuinely done MoT is just one (hopefully trained) person's opinion that the vehicle meet the minimum statutory standards at that one point in time only (it could fail one second later) and it does not mean the vehicle is in as good condition as it could or should be or that it won't have issues as soon as it leaves the test centre.

Hi, welcome. You can share and get lots of real world advice, information and experience from owners and others in the Kamiq section of the site including forums for Kamiq and Kamiq Guides plus other lots of general forums for other subjects. Kamiq section - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/390-%C5%A1koda-kamiq/ Home (all forums) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Hi, welcome. You can get share and get lots of real world advice, information and experience from owners and others in the Octavia section of the site including forums for Octavia Mk3 (or 4), Guides and Projects plus other lots of general forums for other subjects. Octavia section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ Home (all forums). - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Hi Steve, welcome. Advice, with a car new to you never assume anything fitted to it is correct, or fitted correct or fully functions correctly. Be careful when buying LED bulbs as lots of them are cheap crap (I've never a fan of Amazon). For good reliable information, advice and products I recommend Classic Car LEDs Ltd. - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/?srsltid=AfmBOorttvmTofyvV2Lw7rmogAcGLVHlDO8KxAm6-M6NskxCAuIlo5_R I recommend you check with other 2013 owners which bulbs are required. You can get lots of real world advice, information and experience from owners and others in the Superb section of the site including forums for Superb mk2, Guides and Projects plus other general forums for tuning and other subjects. Superb - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ Home (all forums) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Having a stage tune will alter setting so standard diagnosis for somethings will go out of the window and results and figures have to be checked, cross-referenced and interrogated even more so than with a factory standard example of the car. Good luck. ETA: well done on referring to the car's 'Owner's Manual' if you keep doing so you could save yourself unnecessary hassles and visits to garages, mechanics and auto-electricians and know more about your car than many long term owners. The manuals aren't always written or illustrated in the best way but still very useful and they don't contain all the information they could but that's VW's way.

If you are unsure about brakes then best to sort. The servo itself just reduces the need for working the leg muscles so much but very handy on a light pick-up if carrying weight. 12mm valve on 13mm hose, was it a good tight fit or did you add two clips? Personally I can't stand those self-tightening type of clips and the annoying special pliers you sometimes need to use on them, especially on fit 'n' forget type application (i.e. non-service).

When you say you cleaned all earth connections is it all of them as there can be a lot all over the car. Then you need to check the connections (and wires) with a meter whilst wriggling them. As it clutch and brakes it's weird but I'd check the power and earths to brake lights, the switch, the connections even remove the brake lights bulbs and check them. Perhaps even replace the bulbs but with good quality manufactured bulbs, or long life or whatever term they use to suggest they're not cheap crappy made bulbs that so many are. I have no idea of the pedal set up on your car but if both clutch and brake pedals are on a shared bar to hang from that one area of commonality and if the brake light switch is there too that's a second area brake of commonality, if so I'd have a good look and testing of that area, making sure everything it secure and operates as straight and freely as it should and that the brake light switch if located there isn't in someway interacting with mechanical operation of pedals when it shouldn't. I have found electrics can act very strangely and unexpectedly even on cars with much, much less and simpler wiring and connections (and no electronics at all, imagine that if you can). Trying to push the clutch pedal by hand with really give you an idea of how "heavy" or "light" feels. 🙂 Good luck, and remember, checking, double and treble checking is often better than changing, and less cost.

Cambelt.- CamBeltchangechange.pdf