nta16

Hi, welcome. 2007 is only old when compared to 2026, a 2007 car could have many advantages over a 2026 (on top of the build years). If you've not already seen it it as well as all the other general and model and years sections and forums there's a Octavia Mk2 forum. New or old the basics of timely, thorough servicing, maintenance and repairs still apply but at least you potentially a lot less 12v battery, the later additional driver "aids" and "assists" concerns. Good luck. 'Škoda Octavia' section. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

I've not looked at any examples of Yetis so these are just general remarks that cover all cars for general ownership use. Careful not to overvalue cosmetics, regular cars are bought for use rather than show and a lot of very shiny cars aren't always the best mechanically (electrics, electronics, etc.). Personally I would sooner see a higher than average mileage than a low or very low annual mileage on car of this age and mileage (2016, 125k-miles averages out at say 12.5k- 14k per year, not that high). DSG would be my worry, and perhaps if the car had been used for a lot of heavy towing over hills and mountains, does that particular DSG need servicing and if required has the DSG been serviced in a timely manner or ever at all I'd never believe VW's it's a for "life" thing.

If your car calls for 32psi or like my wife's 30 or 35psi and you prefer 32psi fair enough, taking the pressure when the tyres are 'cold' with a reasonably accurate regular pressure gauge to keep things consistent. If you can put up with that noise (it'd drive me mad) then yes see if it improves or gets worse. Good to hear you are charging the battery, you do need to read and follow the instructions for charging the battery in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the appropriate charger maintainer and get the battery to its full state of charge. Batteries don't like the cold but they also don't like the heat, at 30c weather the battery self-discharges twice as much as when weather is 20c, and twice as much again at 40c (as it hit here a few years back) plus of course things like air-con will be used more. The battery can be too low for the car's computer systems even when the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before any difficulty starting the engine (the battery will be in a poor state of charge at that point). One of the first signs the battery is low is the start/stop not operating when it should but of course if you never use this then you won't get this sign. The successful charging of the battery will get rid of the various warnings and warning lights from battery charge getting too low for the car's computers but the computers are very, very dumb, they need reminding the battery has been charged. If any warnings remain one way to sort the computers is to, start the engine, put the air-con on, blower and lights then turn the steering wheel full lock both ways then turn off, lights, air-con and blower as required, that heavy electric load and the battery (and alternator) coping with it should send a message to the computers that they can understand. You are better to be proactive than reactive and charge the battery before it gets too low, prevention rather than cure. If you aren't going to use the car for a week or two or more then a battery maintainer will help prevent further unnecessary battery life disappearing. If you are having to too regularly recharge the battery then it may be already be not in the best health but could if looked after give more useful life. What expensive leak was fixed, could any of the work (taking things apart and back together again) done then possibly have caused the noise(?).

I think you would be better looking at and/or asking in the Yeti section of the, plenty of real world advice and information there from Yeti owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/151-skoda-yeti/ Good luck.

I save the item a a jpg then use paint or whatever to cut out the areas to leave blank area(s), so stuff not on immediate view at least.

Dan if I was you I'd either block out part or all of your car's reg and VIN in that document. AFAIK that's just a Dealership ticksheet but I might be wrong, not a full list of scheduled service and maintenance, but it might be all that was done plus probably a free health check (look for any necessary, or not, further chargeable work).

Hi, welcome. If you not already seen it as well as all the other model and general sections and threads there a section for the Octavias including a MK4 forum where you can see and get advice and information from owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. If you haven't already done so then along with all the other models and general sections and forums the one for the Superb Mk3 will lots lots of real world information and advice on them from their owners and others so you can have a look and/or asked about them there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk3-2015-2023/ Good luck.

As previously put it's a probably best that you have the battery 'coded' but other owners have said that when swapping from an EFB to another EFB with the same Ah rating that they were happy with the results a year or too later. Certainly I know the world will not end even if you change from EFB to AGM and at a slightly different Ah and don't get it 'coded' absolutely immediately, I have lived to tell the tale. I'd not trust the CTEK not to possibly kill or not be able to deal with a battery in a very low state of charge and health but as with the £9.99 Lidl charger maintainer it can possibly be 'outsmarted' to charge a battery below 7.5V(? IIRC). I've recharged a battery from 2.5v and not because I'm that smart or clever just better at it than a "smart" charger, not that I would trust that battery for much or long, certainly not on a very modern car.

8 miles is better than 2, at 8 miles, depending on the journey this time of year you might just get up to 90+c on the oil (not coolant) temperature. I've seen other put about a grouching noise after car has been sitting for a while, not sure if it might be the starter motor or might be all stuff a bit stiff and resistant to belts turning. Mt wife's 2015 Fabia, used almost every day of the year was making a grinding type noise and I think it's (might be, or might not be) the air-con compressor with grit/****/debris on the belt, drive pulley, as air-con runs but it's used often. If the car is unused for 4 days I'd suggest about 4 or so times a year doing preventative, not reactive use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instruction for the charger and car's 'Owner's Manual' and fully recharge the 12v battery to 100% to save the computers from causing unnecessary mischief. The thought that wheel bearing might need changing at 7-8 years ****es me off, luckily this is one thing that hasn't happened on my wife's car. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Sizes are nominal and different tyres have different tyre wall designs and characteristics. Road holding is to do with the design and build of the particular tyre, the composition and ingredients of the tyre walls and the tread. Going from 215 to 225 even in exactly the same make, model and composition of tyre would make very little difference and not noticeable other than perhaps if the 215 tyres were older and worn and 225 fresher and less worn. All modern cars for the past decades have had silly fashion oversized wheels and tyres with lower profiles (side wall heights) so wheel rims can be more exposed to damage. You need to find, if possible tyres of the same size that offer more rim protection, or perhaps go down a wheel size to get more sidewall on the tyres, your best bet is to ask owners in the Karoq section of the site for their advice. The following sites might help you generally understand the size differences to each other. HTH. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ https://www.willtheyfit.com/ https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/

It might be your recordings and EQ but that sounds more like a wind type of noise than bearings or perhaps tyre, my wife is better at identifying and tracking noise than me. As already put check tyres and underside for anything loose. I would get someone else to drive and sit and listen in the front passenger and left and right rear seats to see if there are any differences to the sound you hear. You could poke around at the door and window seals just in case too. I also wonder if there are any flaps not working or partial blockages to the front or any part of the car. On my last car I had a whistle that I never did find and often wondered if it might have been the uprated ARB altering things or causing it but it could have been lots of other things. It may be that the new tyres being newer and more subtle and if a different model or make to the Dunlops quieter so as they are quiet and you notice the noise more. How loud does the stereo go. 😀 Lots of short journeys in some ways doesn't help the tyres or the engine or car in some ways.

Blimey I couldn't get to 50% if I could remember. 😄 The only thing I can think of for what I might have forgotten I think you have already covered - you didn't replace the piston rings for new ones(?).

In that/this case take no notice of me, I forget which engines these cars have, which owners have swapped to what, Favorits to Felicias and so on and it's a bit of a crossover period and I can't remember my own name some days. I saw something the other day that reminded me of a possible heating cause but can I remember what it might be and where I might have seen it, no, but I might at 3am, and then forget it again.

No they don't always/usually/often, the scanner is another, often more detailed, diagnostic tool, like a multimeter and your human senses, knowledge and experience, like all information from any source it needs to be checked and cross reference for being applicable and accurate. Unless the air filter (and/or air filter box and trunking) was badly clogged up the filtering should be Ok for a diesel but timely thorough servicing and use of good quality engine oil and perhaps V-Power type diesels will help a lot as will getting your clog down occasionally Italian tune-up style as you've mentioned. As much of car service, maintenance and some repairs boils down to clean and lubricate (engine oil change, air filter, V-power type fuel, clearing error codes, etc..) I agree with suggestions of looking at and attending to the physical matters, cleaning, lubricating and working the actuator, checking wiring and connections. You might have to replace the actuator (or part of it?) or you might not, engine bays can be dirty place very particularly diesels so start with removing the dirt if there's a lot of it, you'll want the area, and connections, clean to fit a new part anyway. Don't just rely on the sexy toys like scan tools also cover the start basics (which you often have to go back to anyway with scan tool results). Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Hi, welcome. Have a look at videos for turbo actuator replacement on VW diesels for possible P2563 (and possibly other two if related). I'm just going with the flow here, I'm not a mechanic, only going on the limited information of your post and assuming your scanner is giving correct error codes. Other with much more knowledge may also post. Good luck.

Hi, welcome back.

In the thread D.FYLAKYOS linked to there a post from a dear departed friend that "compression value varies quite extensively with valve clearance" have you check the valve clearances are correct. Another method to check could be say you're set at "25 thou" to test the 24 blade goes in easily but the 26 blade doesn't. A mate of mine that does "classic" Jag and other race engines sets the clearances fairly quickly and only does one check and leaves it at that, for the British stuff he does at least he says one turn of the engine and they'll be out as they're not precision and the parameters worked to seem a lot narrower than the VW figures I've seen here but there might be different methods of measurement. But I've always though the VW (4-pot) engines sound a bit badger's even compared to a 1950s design and 60s and 70s built engines I'm more used to. After the valve clearances of course all the other stuff we've been through needs checking and adjusting as required. I think a summary of what's been done to the engine, ignition and cooling/heating may be required, new parts and materials fitted and used and adjustments made, the path taken to arrive at your current place. If the engine was running hot before you got it that might have been for a reason other than wrong cooling set up. Do you have an engine number or casting numbers to confirm all is what you were told it was, block and head a match to each other, all ignition and timing parts correct to applicant and not counterfeit. You have already done a lot for only a small improvement in cooling so something might have been or is misrepresented to what you expect.

So what has changed other than the bent con rod since your 'Smoking 1.6 engine' thread (where Thefeliciahacker taught me a lesson about VW engine tolerances) are you testing same way, using same oil, did you follow Thefeliciahacker's advice of not changing the piston rings (liners?, pistons?) to new ones or were these already replaced on the engine before you got it. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536289-smoking-16-engine/#findComment-5980790

Bit of a long shot but have you had a looked in the various sections/forums of this site's 'Marketplace' section, 'Skoda Classic Cars & Parts For Sale', 'Parts For Sale', 'Breaking cars', 'Free Stuff' and 'Ebay listings'. Marketplace section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/37-marketplace/ I think you are going to need more details about the boss you want, fitting to which car model or steering column rod and which Mountney steering wheel. Mountney classic boss kits. - https://mountneyclassic.co.uk/collections/boss-kits HTH.

Hi Karem, welcome. If you have not already seen them along with lots of other model and more general sections there are forums for 'Skoda Superb Mk3 (2015 - 2023)', 'Skoda Superb Guides' and 'Superb Projects' in the 'Škoda Superb' section. And 'General Maintenance', 'Audio, Electronics and Security', 'Diagnostics & VCDS' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums in the 'General Forums' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/95-general-forums/ 'Škoda Superb' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-%C5%A1koda-superb/ I know nothing other than 50 years of car ownership experiences (many bad, especially with some in the English motor trade) and try here to promote how important the 12v battery is especially to the old stop/start models and even more so with the very (over) complex VW cars more modern cars will all their "assists" and "aids" and comfort and other toys (to make drivers passenger behind the steering wheel). Many find it difficult to understand the battery being in a bit of a low state of charge can really upset the commanding gods of the computers systems, modules and computer programs. Hopefully you have been taught and learnt well and know to always start at the very basics beginnings, no matter how far you progress and qualify in your work and to use your human diagnostics of your human senses [ ETA: sight, touch, hearing, smell, etc. ] brain power, training and experience before going on to the other toys and to check and cross reference to confirm what any computer or person tells you. I think you will be able to teach a lot and learn a lot from the experienced owners here and other (good) motor trade professionals here. Good luck, enjoy.

Why not look at the instructions for whatever CTEK model you have or download the PDF copy if you don't have the paper copy. Do say you did follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual for hooking up the battery charger maintainer. As I have a PDF copy of the CTEK MX 5.0 I can copy and paste those here. - "Recond option 15.8V/1.5A Use to return energy to the empty WET and Ca/Ca batteries. Recond your battery once per year and after deep discharge to maximise lifetime and capacity. The Recond program adds STEP 6 to the normal battery program." This confirms the "AI" (artificial yes, intelligence no it's not) - always confirm and cross reference any information you get from any source but especially "AI". The CTEKs, like many others, are called "smart" chargers, like other devices called "smart" devices, they are not they actually very dumb and sometimes need fooling to do what "dumb / ordinary" charges would just get get on and do. The CTEK MX 5.0 instructions have step 6 Recon with a "time limit" of "2h or 6h" which add confusion as it shows a AGM Recond setting (of 1.5.8v same as other Recond) so if your CTEK doesn't go to stage/light 7 after say 2, 4 or 6 hours then it might not have been able to complete it's task. Lidl are selling the £15 charger maintainer for £10 from IIRC next week I'd sooner have one of those than a CTEK personally having seen the three CTEKs my mate has, he could have saved a lot of money. I don't like the sound of your unlocking and locking issues at this stage of charging but I don't know how the CTEKs bugger about, but stage 6 ons the instruction for the CTEK MX 5.0 suggest to me that stages 1 to 5 take a maximum of 36h 3 min or 44h 3 min depending on how you interpret the markings - and it also depends on what you mean by two days, if less than those two figures perhaps the CTEK is doing fine and just needs to complete its work. I don't like to see batteries changed unnecessarily and prematurely but sometimes and for some that is the best option and then I suggest before installing fully charging the new battery to 100% that way you have a very good datum point for reference (should there be other or further charging or other issues with the car) and you know the battery was fully charged when fitted. Yes the VW programing will get it down to about 80% but that won't be too much of a factor on very early checks of the new battery to confirm against and charging or drain issue(s). Let us know how things are going.

@Johngerard You put 85% state of charge, I've seen various figure for the VW SOC to allow for regenerative lip-service, does the VW programing change SOC to allow for registered used/charging, allowing for use, abuse, neglect of the battery plus no doubt a good margin for tardiness of battery replacement and/or a possible potential healthy spare part revenue and profit in house? And/or has the programing changed over the years and/or models and years? HRS had me thinking, almost looked it up then a rare brainwave - heated rear windscreen. I don't think you would be challenging the alternator as much as some drivers at idle especially those with fully-loaded toys on/in the cars, then electric load when the car is stopped or parked up with engine off, and also perhaps a spider's nest of wire connectors for this, that and gawd knows what. Of course battery and alternator work as a pair and though as you say these alternators are good having reasonably heathy battery(ies) partnered up to them helps with the alternators longevity and of course a reasonably healthy alternator will help with battery(ies) longevity. I have sympathy with the car manufacturers as modern drivers generally aren't interested in knowing much about the basic running of the vehicles and any information offered on the dash can be misunderstood as the explanations won't be read even if offered in the Driver's Handbook (to go old school) and many would sooner just replace the battery than care which is fair enough but a waste of materials (time money and hassle to me) and of course it helps a little with the national economy (of several countries). Funnily enough this Saturday I'm going to check on a Jag's double battery (stop/start) set up, no more than multimeter probes on the batteries terminals to see what the readings are after last week's sort out, and check no error codes have returned with vehicle use. Only very basic stuff, if recharging the battery last week with an appropriate battery charger maintainer has sorted all of the warnings and (almost) all of the error codes, great if not, well it's a modern Jag (Land Rover, TATA) then it's off to very expensive battery supplier and/or Jag sorter-outer. The Ford Jags seem to tell on non- Jag scanners being used the TATA Jag might do but it didn't show it, possibly grateful for all the help they can get. 😄

@hubrad - I forgot the warning about 'coding' as with all computer data entries (one-finger typing) it has to be correct. A technical chap a member here had a lot of trouble after having a new battery fitted for about a year IIRC(?) and that was because though he could have done it he left the battery 'coding' to a professional auto-electrician to discover when doing the following battery replacement 'coding' that the professional auto-electrician had entered 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah. Very poor programing on VW's part that an error like this should be possible but I find VW's (and others) programing parameters can be wide which is why owner/drivers can notice when there's something up when the computer don't, or don't report an error anyway. Also forgot, some members are willing to offer using their scan tools for other members, such as 'coding' a battery, printing off and/or deleting error codes and more (I offered but don't have a VCDS, never got a reply, if you were nearer we could plug the machine in and you could see what's available to see, sound the car horn remotely to test communication). See here. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

My apologies, now you've put this I do remember you saying before the volts bit was good (I still don't remember the bit about the air temperature but that's not unusual). I have thought before some of the readings for alternator from it seemed a little unusual perhaps but if those are the readings you get then fair enough, out of interest how do they compare with your VCDS for live data on this (assuming the VCDS can record the varying figures / patterns / graph(?) over a period of time?