nta16

Hi, welcome. I will give a shout out to @pab567 who is the resident expert for this type of thing.

Hello, welcome.

Yes Google is much more openly the advertising site than it used to be so you do need to search more pages after the first page and I remove the "AI" (it's not) bit by clicking-on the 'More' tab to get the drop down there to click-on 'Web'. Doing this got me 5 pages, lots to YouTube, with the search term "1.2 tsi cyvb oil leak from manifold" and there was mention of your issue but I didn't go deeper.

Great of you to offer. I don't administer this map so I am only giving general site note, please bear in mind this is an English 'speaking' site so if you could write in English please.

Before disconnecting the battery make sure all windows and sunroof are fully shut and all electric items are switched off. In the 'Owner's Manual' is says about needing code for radio but it seems that is wrong by all the reports from owners I've seen. You do loose trip (mileage) memories, though I've no idea about mpg memory or for electric chairs.

Be aware that raw numbers often don't always mean that much, they can look good for sales but a higher number that doesn't last as long may not be as good as a lower number that retains for longer. A better battery will perform better for longer. Also when comparing numbers they need to be from the same system of testing to get those numbers. A typo there you mean 700A for 680A - these figures refer to the CCA (cold cranking amps) rather than amp hour (Ah) capacity of the battery. Some info if you want it, VW and nta. - SSP-504_Vehicle_Batteries.pdf SSP-234-Vehicle-batteries.pdf CarBatteryInformation.pdf CCAspecs.pdf

I'm not against not bothering with coding for like-for-like battery change but think it best if reasonably possible to fart about as the German marques, including VA groups, want and 'code' in the new battery when reasonably possible. If you don't have the tool often a place fitting the battery will or you could look for a Briskoda member offering their scan tool use. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ Battery testers seem to be a bit pessimistic about the battery's future, I would want to test the battery disconnected from the car and even then like all "smart" devices they are not smart but very, very dumb only following their programing and electronics with the information at that one point in time. I would not put all my faith in the one time reading of when the battery is low. I have very easily revived batteries others would have just replaced. But if anyone gains more confidence from replacing the battery that is fine.

A scan tool that just an error code reader that's only for the engine will I think be a waste of time for your issue. You put you've had two lots of diagnostic which I assume (ass u me, makes an ass of you and me) means this might have included diagnostics with plug in scan tools and hopefully other tools and use of training, knowledge, experience, thought and attitude to try to sort this out. You would need a better scan tool than that simple code reader to take live recordings and have bi-directional control (not only get info from car's computer but also can activate and de-active items). Tangent - Amazon aren't the only providers of everything (and often not the least expensive) but everyone can buy from who they want. I think it might be a good idea to test your theory and take the stop/start element out of the equation by disconnecting it. This will not harm the car and actually helps the battery a bit, some owners have disconnected the stop/start for years, whether on a 2019 car this might report you to VW and you are summoned to a meeting in Germany to explain your actions I don't know but I doubt it. Give it a try for a while and see what happens and report back. Good luck.

According to Autoparts 24's website the Octavia (and other VAG cars of course) had the CYVB engine, I have no idea how accurate this information is of how much, or not, the engine installations and bits associated the engine vary in these models but you could perhaps do a search for your issue or CYVB issues in the Octavia section of this site, or Google search which will probably bring you to this section, forum, post(s) on this site and perhaps other sites. List of other VAG models with CYVB engine on Autoparts 24. - https://www.autoparts-24.com/engine/code/cyvb/26740/ Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) forums on Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ HTH.

Hi, welcome. As well as the Octavia Mk3, Guides and Project forums on this site, if you've not already seen them, there also lots of general sections and forums on many other models and years and specific subjects that can have lots of related information and advice from owners and others. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/ Good luck.

Well done. What's the engine bay like? The red (or any other) paint will stand out more if you make the black plastics and rubbers more black. I use Autoglym Bumper and Trim Gel (arm and a leg cost now but good) applied with a 35mm cube of clean used (save some money) sponge, apply to door seals as well, anything black exterior except tyres. Glass already looks very clean, headlights might just be the angle of photo. Same for plastic rear lights, if not bumper gel on those too. For tyres, spray 'n' walk away, Armor All Tire Foam, doesn't give the cheap s/h sales place high gloss look to the tyres like some others can.

Hi welcome. If you've not already seen it, along with lots of other model and general sections, there is an Octavia section on this site which includes forums for Octavia Mk3, Guides and Projects. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/169-%C5%A1koda-octavia/

hi, welcome.

I'm willing to be proven wrong but my understanding is that a change in "serial" number is important for the computer program to know that a new battery has been fitted, so one of us could have incorrect information. The "serial" number isn't really a battery serial number as I've seen on Briskoda that the factory entered the "serial" number as ten (or eleven?) ones (1111111111) and that as long as you have the same number of digits (/ character(s)) you can put what you want, most for example just increase the number so ten ones (1111111111) becomes nine ones with a two at the end (1111111112) as with the example for my wife's car below, or some just enter the date of new battery installation (26-11-2025) VW code for the battery manufacturer seems unimportant - and I'm not sure the need for three characters even matters as I had five characters entered and it doesn't seem to have made any odds after 4 years of daily use of the car. Below is from when a Briskoda member used OBDEleven to 'code' the change of battery on my wife's 2015 Fabia. - For those with access to VCDS Vrooom's notes.- VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

As put you may find more info in another forum(s) on this site such as the 'Project' forums of the models that use the same 1.0 TSI engine (what differences there might be with India engines I don't know. You may already know and do what follows but many that have or want their cars tuned don't. There is no such thing really as Stage 1, 2 or more though there might be general agreement of what they might consist of there could be different interpretations by different people and tuners and in different regions and counties. As stated you also need to find good reliable tuners in India that know your car make, model and engine to see what they do and use and what results they usually get. First part of any tuning is having the whole car in good working order and the whole call fully and properly serviced, maintained and repaired thoroughly and in timely manner. To have all systems, components and parts in good working order. Most important are brakes, suspension, steering (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wiper, etc.) after those is transmission and engine. Once all that is sorted you can move on to stage tuning but bear in mind as with everything on the car further tuning can/will bring further compromises, such as if tuned for top end performance you can lose some bottom and middle performance that makes less efficiency of normal everyday driving. Not all "improvements" and "upgrades" are overall improvements or improvements at all, things have to be balanced. This is why you need a good reliable tuner that knows what they are doing with your particular car make, model and engine. Next bit many men don't like - after full and proper, thorough, timely servicing, maintenance and repair is something that is transferable to future cars, further driver training. A good driver can get more out of a standard or tuned cars. I hope that helps.

Paul, read your car's 'Owner's Manual' for info of battery disconnection/reconnection and what possibly needs resetting. Generally in reality its the time of day clock (instructions for resetting this are you know where). You will also loose (back to zeros) the trip (mileage) recordings, I've no idea about MPG stuff as I rarely look at such things. Before disconnecting the battery just have all your electric windows (and sunroof) fully shut and all electric items switched off. If you don't have the very useful, and should have been read by now, paper printed copy of the car's 'Owner's Manual' then you can get a free pdf download from the VWŠkoda manuals site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models The 'Owner's Manual' gives lots of useful info that can save you time, money and hassle of visits to garages. mechanics and auto-electricians - but here's the kicker, you do have to actually read it and refer to it as required. True, some bits do seem to have been written by a German engineering student in German then translated to Chinese to be translated from Chinese to English but generally still very informative. Very often beats relying on the internet and the very hit 'n' miss misnomer "AI". If you actually read the car's 'Owner's Manual' you will know more about the car than many long term owners.

Hello, welcome.

Hi, welcome. Previously VWŠkoda UK conned us UK owners by saying the cam belt need changing at 5yrs/50k-miles but when convenient to them they brought the change in line with the rest of Europe - "For some variants, this means that there is no service interval at all, with 'fitted for life' items that can be considered as 15 years or '18O,000 miles." - you might want to do annual inspections. - CamBeltchangechange.pdf The DSG may be the type that has a service schedule (all need oil changes really if you want a longer life from the box). With stop/start cars, or more modern cars, it's best to own a battery charger maintainer and do occasional preventative charges (following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger maintainer) if you want a longer life out the expensive 12v batteries and avoid upsetting the computer systems that run the car. Free VWŠkoda 'Owner's Manual' site for free pdf downloads where you can learn a lot about the car before you buy one, if you do. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models You can get lots more information and advice about the Octavia Mk3 in the forum for it, from owners and others with real life experience by having a look and/or asking there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/235-skoda-octavia-mk3-2013-2020/ Good luck.

AFAIK generally at the front you want same for one side as the other for suspension including tyres, and same with rear one side to the other, unless you're doing some specialist thing other than normal road driving.

Paul it was at total fluke, I've already been right once this year and I can't remember the last time I was right in twice in a year. Your wife sounds similar to mine but after 48 years you get used to it. I totally agree the the instructions tell you so little. With my earlier model after connect it up as per car's 'Owner's Manual' I leave the charger a few seconds to settle and then you can also see what the volts reading is before charging. One press of the mode button, give it a second of time to switch to car 12v charging (a second press will get you 12V with snowflake symbol for charging when the ambient temperature is below say 5c) and that's it leave it to do all the work whilst you carry out the chores your wife has given you. It may take up to 24+ hours to get to full ("FUL"). If you have to break off the charging for any reason to use the car no worry just put he charger back on when you can and get the battery to full on the next session. If the charger doesn't show "FUL" after say 48+ hours charging then let us know. Just in case you don't know, if you want to you can take your car in for MoT up to a month (minus a day) before it runs out and keep the same renewal date. Don't forget those chores you are supposed to have done. 😉

To me it now sounds like it might be a computer system error / programing / sensor error for the clutch pedal related to the stop/start. Has anyone plugged in a relevant scan tool and done live readings on such? Something you could try is possibly disconnecting the battery monitoring (at the negative battery post clamp) which will do away with the stop/start and see if this prevents the issue from occurring as this could confirm this is the area you need to concentrate on.

When did that happen, I didn't notice. You could 'Report' your original post and give your reason for this thread to be returned to the 'General Maintenance' forum. To 'Report' click-on the three dots at the top right corner to get the drop-down menu, the message will go to a Moderator. Good luck.

Some pin go-faster stripes and platform shoes will help the car with performance and you with your knees plus you're ready for any discos going on. Three things solved at once and no need to consult AI either.

Yes I know, I was trying to help you and others - spot the difference (it's the hyperlink on mine, to encourage others by providing a direct link rather than needing to copy & paste, or perhaps it looks different on your device). Good luck anyway I hope you get it sorted.

That's if the fault diagnosis is/was correct, plus the vehicle was returned 21st Feb with the sunroof not working and a motor was fitted in late Feb to April (was this the first or second motor). OP have you checked in the Kodiaq section/forum to see if others have had this fault, particularly mid-2024 owners in case it might be a known fault by VW and the Dealership(s), perhaps even hidden technical bulletins or other on the issue? You could also look at the other VW brands to see if this issue might be on their models. Rightly or wrongly I always suspect the possibility of programing errors or errors in updates, which even someone decent in an independent garage or auto-electrician/diagnostics might not be able to fully track down. Are you in any sort of organisation that may be able to help you with this or services from other stuff you pay for. Despite what many in the motor trade tell everyone generally they have the upper hand over their customers, but keep pushing and contacting whoever you can at the Dealership, VWŠkoda and outside resources. Good luck.