nta16

Personally I always fully charge a new battery to 100% before fitting to the vehicle as this gives a definite datum point and also gives as much margin as possible for any diagnostics and repair work drain, and you may be doing a lot of work that may drain the battery even a new battery is just a store and can be depleted. The computers systems can play up if the battery is low, even if the headlights seem bright enough and well, well before any signs of the engine not starting, there are loads of threads and posts about this on this site for the various models and ages. You don't have to waste petrol by driving the car you can just use an appropriate battery charger and read and follow the instructions for that and read and follow the the instruction for the car in the 'Owner's Manual'. As the battery has discharged slowly then it's best to recharge slowly, using say 2, 3, 4 or 5 amp charger maintainer. The car's battery charging system will take the battery state of charge down to 80% and that is why as my wife's car does lots of journeys of 2 miles (3 km) when I do the very occasional preventative battery charging I have it to 100% of its capacity to extended the expensive battery's useful service life and to avoid the computers moaning, they are already enough of a PITA. Having the battery in a good state of charge may not resolve the main issue you have but it will help with diagnosis and prevent other possibly contributing issues. Good luck.

That's what I thought, if so at 9+ years old, 71k-miles and never had the use of a battery charger (to get it to 100% charge if required) and no signs of battery being low, particularly if the stop/start is usually used, I would just have the battery checked and unless very (very) low I would just try my usual slow recharge to 100% with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following instruction for charger and instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and see how that goes rather than replace the battery prematurely. But if there's going to be any worry about a low result then best to just replace the battery and have it 'coded'.

You'd be best checking and cross-referencing answers with other Karoq 4x4 owners, a good specialist tyre fitting place, VWŠkoda (somehow). My thoughts might be wrong so need checking, but @Carlston might know better. It might depend on how old and worn tread the other three tyres are compared to the new fresh replacement. If part-time 4x4 then generally it might be at worse changing both tyres on the axle with the tyre that needs replacement, or if the unaffected tyre on that axle isn't very old and not much tread wear, and wear even across the tread, then perhaps only the one tyre is needed. Permanent 4x4 would be get away with one or need all four, I'd guess. But if you really need the 4x4 facility, if only occasionally, you might be better not risking anything on your wife's car and fitting four new fresh tyres rather than you getting the blame if changing only one or two tyres and then your wife had issues using the 4x4, or lend her the Subaru and you wade through with the Karoq.

Graham, is your Yeti stop/start?

Chris, those in the Octavia section, with 'Octavia Mk3', 'Octavia Guides' and 'Octavia Projects' forums will have experience on this, plus more info in the 'Performance & Tuning' section on this site. Carlston beat me to it if possibly I would reduce the size of the wheels to as small as possible personally even in 2007 wheels and tyres were oversized by car manufacturers, I'd have 14" steel wheels if they fit over the brakes and enough air to brakes with much more sidewall 'rubber', this combination would also be more practical for our 3rd-world roads. Also different makes and models of tyres of the same size will ride differently so give different ride qualities. Some websites for tyre info and there's a 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on this site too. 'Wheel-Size.com' shows the wheel alternatives to factory cars - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/octavia/2016/#region-eudm 'TireSize.Com', compare different tyre sizes. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/ 'willtheyfit.com', to get an idea of what might fit when changing wheel and tyre sizes. - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ 'Tyres & Wheels' forum on this site. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-wheels/ Check out which Bilstein dampers or other dampers might be best for you, as for raising springs are you sure the current springs, dampers, suspension hasn't dropped from factory ride height and if getting back to that might be enough. One way to measure ride height is to measure from the centre of the wheel hub to the wheel arch lip on the wings and compare side to side on your car (there's always some differences) and against factory new or other same model and year with fresh(er) factory type suspension. HTH.

If my memory is correct good quality vacuum hose from reliable manufacturers will be marked up to show compliance with relevant standards. No doubt you can get cheaper generic but do you want anything cheap on a vehicle's brakes. You can get silicone or rubber. Gates (rubber)is the only name that comes to mind at the moment.

As with removing the thermostat if you have the fan running constantly you will have to run the engine for a bit longer and/or put more stress/load on it for it to fully over-warm compared to with thermostat and fan controlled. Obviously you don't want to load or stress the engine more until it is fully warmed up (oil temperature) to normal running temperature.

Hi, welcome. You've not put which model and age you own but as well as many general sections and forums there are also sections for the various models (including pre-VW) and years where the owners and other give advice, help and real world experiences. If you start from the Home page you'll see the full range of forums. Enjoy. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/

Two things to mention, before I forget, suggested by another member, first not known to me and second I think I had forgotten about in this thread at least - one) - we might have already cover this, if the plastic expansion tank is new check the tubes/ports/out/in/lets are not block or partially blocked from manufacturer two) - I don't think this has been tried but I might be wrong, checking temperature with an external device (on writing this I remember someone doing this but not if it was you Rob) infrared gun or an app on a phone to look at an image for hot (or cold) spots or areas. Great photo btw, and labelling, very useful (not to me as I don't know, but you and others).

Just winding you up (British banter), I knew it would get you going and I thought you might have fitted aerospec and possibly even Goodridge. I could never understand when there was all the p1ss-poor rubber about why the old farts that owned the "classics" I had would object to fitting them other than the cost but then they were stick-in-the-muds about other items on the car too (modern (proper) synthetic oils) but anything cosmetic was put on the car at whatever silly high price. That made some sense as usually the cars were for show rather than go and rarely ever driven and then not driven as designed for.

@Taztoza golden rules when using a scanner are make sure the scanner and its programs are fully up-to-date and appropriate to the car and that the car and (if appropriate) scanner battery(ies) are in reasonable state of charge before using the scanner on the car. It is your car and you do as you please with it but if you deviate from usual convention then this can complicate matters especially if these deviations are not mentioned. How are things going now, take your time as some things cannot be rushed and things should not be rushed anyway as this often leads to mistakes and things being overlooked. Check, recheck and cross reference everything, start at the basics and beginning, don't miss out first steps in the process and instead start at later steps as this can cause complications and confusion. Good luck.

Yes I take your point, my thinking is always a battery that is too low in state of charge (and health) may not directly or indirectly affect any issues but for proper and further diagnosis you need to start from the best foundation you can and to have the battery fully or as well charged as possible, particularly for electric, electronic and engine starting issues. I also always recommend checking and fully to 100% charge a new battery before fitting this as a datum point and also give as much margin as possible for any diagnostics, a battery not in a reasonable state of charge (and health) may hinder diagnosis and repair /resolve. Too many people jump to sexy tools like scanners and over rely on them forgetting the necessary basis first - obviously a scanner is very useful and often needed for the cars now but that is after the basics have been done. Whilst it's quick and convenient to reset oil change and inspection with a scanner if it can reasonably be done with just the car itself that would be my preference* as it only involves one very, very dumb computer (program) whereas using a scanner introduces a second very, very dumb computer (program) more than doubling the potential for further issues. [ * if this is done through the dash and the dash has been buggered then obviously that is out ] I am not against any computers or them being used but when appropriate rather than as a first resort, the computers help greatly but can also cause more issues. If you have read to here, I am sure we have different views on this but can run happily on different tracks.

Note VW call AGM "fleece". OBDEleven from a member doing the 'coding' for my wife's 2015 Fabia, from EFB to AGM as you can see the factory didn't bother with a battery serial number and I didn't bother about the VW three-letter battery serial code, important is to change serial number, battery type if required and Ah. I can't find info on OBDEleven battery 'coding' but here info for VCDS. - VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

ETA: if you have very old (or crap new modern made) rubber hoses be careful of squeezing the hose off as it might deteriorate the hose even more and inside where you can't see might get tiny bits of the hose detaching off and contaminating the system the hose is part of. I had so much p1ss-poor rubber bits with my last two "classics" going back 20 years that if I couldn't get NOS I'd look for alternatives, for brake flexi-hoses I fitted aeroquip (Goodridge) they were well worth the extra for piece of mind (brakes are the most important thing on a car (tyres are also part of the braking system as well as suspension and steering systems) I had them fitted for almost as long as I had the car and I'd be amazed if they weren't still fitted doing a great job silently, fit 'n' forget (other than visual inspection for other stuff causing them issue of course). Plenty of Tom, **** and Harrys making up such stuff now but just as an example (for 1.6 Felicia 96-2000). (get D.FYLAKTOS jealous of another old English car company 😁 ). GoodridgeBRAKE HOSE KIT FOR SKODA FELICIA 1.6 1996-2000 - GoodridgePerformance brake hose kit for Skoda Felicia 1.6 1996-2000. - Goodridge

As you say plenty of vacuum hoses available - DO NOT go cheap Chinese on this and buy from a reputable reliable source, same for valve. Just one possible supplier, check for brake use on pipe and valve, and size of course. - https://www.carbuilder.com/ With the old cars I had a leak in a brake servo could often be seen as white out of exhaust, IIRC. My last old car that I had for 16 years until 3 years ago didn't have a servo so my memories of such are also very old.

ETA: I got the 2018 from your Author's stats top right down arrow on the posts. Also - hi, and welcome.

2.1 bar or 30 psi in old money From my wife's 2015 Mk3 90 PS 90W, who put those on, does the speedo go up to 180mph - or are they soft tyres for grip and spirited driving. On my wife's 2015, 90PS (H rated tyres) there's an 'Eco' pressure of 2.4 bar (35 psi) for those that want more mpg but we found it a bit harder riding and not recommended for spirited driving unless you want that 'fun' at lower speed. HTH.

ETA: Have you checked that is not just a real world physical thing like mucky camera lens and/ot muck in that part of the windscreen, any other obstruction or partial obstruction.

If you just changed the 12v battery and cleared error codes and nothing else with the scan tools then have you driven the car a reasonable to see if the car might reset these things. And/or - start the engine, turn on the headlights, air-con, blower on full, hazards, then turn the steering wheel full lock both ways, then, as required, turn off hazards, blower, air-con, headlights. This might get the very, very dumb computer to understand the battery (and alternator can cope with a heavy electrical load and the battery is good. Are you sure you have correctly 'coded' in the new battery correctly - we had a chap on here that could have 'coded' the battery himself but instead left it to a professional auto-electrician and he entered 7Ah instead of 70Ah, though the battery played up it did survive a year, we all make mistakes. VW programmers made a mistake of allowing this error to be possible, their parameters should not have allowed 7 to be entered, German (computer) engineering. 😄 I only know the very, very basics with scanners and don't know OBDEleven or the to me horrible looking and legacy usage VCDS. If you done other scanner stuff did you do a back up before doing any 'coding' or data entry, if so have you gone back to the back up. That is about as much as I know.

If it's 2019-on car then you done well to get 5 years out of the battery many other owners report 4 years or less plus a Golf R probably has a lot of toys and all the "aids" and "assists".

Unfortunately you don't always get a choice with them, imagine a very nervous, very inexperienced driver taking over the driving controls from you , perhaps a few rare times when needed but most often being frighten by their own shadows. Look after your 2007 car and keep it for as long as you can (possibly longer than some from this decade). Good luck.

Sorry I should have recognised your member name, looked familiar but I forgot. Now you have put the details it's all flooding back to me. Sorry, but you have to laugh about these cars or someone would get hurt. All or most at least of the stuff to do with the leak would have effected stuff inside the car but did you notice this noise before this work was done? Do you have any record of service, maintenance (and repair) for your car from before you bought it? How many gears does th DSG have? Time for tea.

Other than replacing the 12v battery and 'coding' it in have you done anything else using the OBDEleven or VCDS?

The 4 year life could be for many reasons including VW perhaps ballsing-up the computer program for the battery system (there was a Recall for this on my wife 2015 Mk3 Fabia, I'm sure VW would blame the battery rather than themselves but I've never seen the paperwork on the Recall), then of course there's use, abuse and neglect of the battery by some owner/drivers (present company excluded, I hope). I put an AGM battery on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia but ass I still use a battery charger on it now and again despite all the short journeys it gets I think an EFB would have done just fine at a lower purchase cost. AGMs were expensive at the time, perhaps a shortage of them as some car manufacturer(s) might have balls'd up the battery charging and other car owners need to replace, but I don't know. 😁 If AGM going in engine bay then it gets extra (bottom) insulation over EFB - we've got away with not bothering so far but who knows we might lose some battery life.

(As already put) see if you can see a date on the battery and have the battery load tested to see how it performs as it could have more years in it yet and unless you've had the car from new the battery might have already been changed in the car's life. The car battery is one of the most oversold car parts with many premature replacements. Use of an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for charger with a few preventive recharges to 100% the battery can give lots of useful service life. If it is an original factory battery and you'd sooner renew it fair enough but particularly with stop/start you'll want to get the new battery 'coded' in so that the very, very dumb computers know it's a new battery (or know sooner perhaps). I was told Tosch is a Varta with a different label, don't know if that still holds but it usually pays to get a good battery (like those) and take figures with a pinch of salt it's all about how long the battery lasts with good output rather than over-impressive label figures. Good luck.