nta16

Hi, welcome. As above - also check the state of charge of your car's battery preferably at the battery terminals when the car has been parked up and electrics unused as long ago as possible/practical, a battery in a lower state of charge can upset the car's computers even before any dash warning lights or messages and well, well before the engine has difficulty starting. Plus colder, wetter, frost, snow, shorter days are on the way you want the battery in good condition and state of charge before these.

Thanks for reporting back. VW don't make many parts, the battery included. As for it running out of power it's the same as having a 15 gallon tank with only half a litre of fuel in it and going on a journey, the further you go the more the likelihood of running out. You have covered my two car hobbyhorses, the great importance of the state of charge and health of the car's battery, particularly on modern cars with all their electronics and computer programs. They don't like a lower state of charge and can cause all sorts of issues, even before getting dash warning lights and messages and well before any engine starting issues. Battery state of charge has always been a basic requirement and something to check. Car batteries are the most oversold car part and particularly now with modern cars and drivers/owners and often prematurely replaced when they can often be successfully be recharged to give much more life by using an appropriate battery charger and maintainer with reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions. Second is owners and professionals reading instructs like the car's Owner's Manual, particularly professionals who often think they already know something but have it wrong because of not checking. For one-touch window did you and/or the indie garage read the Owner's Manual for what might need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the car's battery. Hopefully you are now fully sorted and the new battery properly 'coded' in (one auto-electrician was reported on here to have enter 7 Ah instead of 70 Ah (pretty bad the VW program allows this really). Even now you have a new battery I would still advise you if you are keeping the car long to some time later invest in an appropriate battery charger maintainer and when required (usually not very often) using it to do preventative recharges to extended the life of the present battery a long time and save all this hassle again. Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 - 900 Series 4A Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer -https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Good luck.

We had this in the smart at the turn of the century and when we went to a smart car national meet that was going on 3 miles from where we lived we increased the average age by about 20 years and we were 40 then. A young man asked me which generation model we had, I hadn't a clue but I said about the gearbox shifts being opposite to what was intuitive to me and he told me it was just a matter of going under the gear lever gaiter and turning the switch the opposite way round. I never bothered with this as it was my wife's car at the time, I took it on later. Unfortunately I don't think VW make things that easy for you and from what I've read here it'd probably be best to leave the plastic assembly mechanism alone. It's like finding the indicators and wipers on opposite sides to what you've got used to before you soon get used to the new way (well mostly). The smarts also had flaps on the steering wheel, like the Fezzas of the time IIRC, same as when I had a (non-VW) Škoda in the late 1980s and IIRC it had the radio aerial in the rear window only one other expensive car had the same feature, IIRC not such a good idea when you put the heated rear window on ("to keep your hands warm whilst pushing the car"). 🙂

Perhaps when appropriate using the handbrake instead of footbrake would help certainly if the start/stop has operated. Sitting at traffic lights I often see a row of brake lights in front of me regardless of the type of gearbox in the vehicles. OFF TOPIC @thamestrader as you've given a comprehensive answer to the thread question, a brief post on your 1.3 Austin 1.3 HLE that you have owned from new would interest me, and I'm sure others, as until a couple of years ago I had a 1275 Midget that I used as my daily and only car for the previous 16 years.

First question I will leave to others to answer. Second question, many things can be 'coded' or altered with the correct level of appropriate scan tool but whether this can be and whether it would be a good idea to is a different matter I would guess it would be a change or update of software as the programs are so intertwined. Whether this type of thing is included in a tuning package I don't know. As suggested I would just experiment with my driving of the car and see what works for me and how much I get used to what the car wants to do, see how it reacts to right foot input (accelerator pedal position). You can also flick the gear lever as required. Keep it in the power band and you should be OK, push it too high and you will probably get fed up with the engine sound and want lower revs (subject to you and others not being deafen by the infotainment up loud so you don't hear the car). You have to live with a car for a while to find out what you really want and expect from it, what you initially want or expect may change when you get more used to the car, you get more used to accepting its to you good, no-so-good and bad elements and adjust to them. If you don't then seek to do something. Give it time, what seems undesirable now may later seem comfortable. If you had a 6-speed manual you might wish you had a 7 gear DSG on many or all occasions even I sometimes wish I was in an automatic.

In that case if your mechanic mate don't bring his charge him to use yours. 😄 Yeah but you hardly drove it like that. Another reason, among many, as soon as possible, to take the car for a good extended blow-out run and get the engine fully warmed up and give the car's mechanical systems good stretching exercises, blow out from intake, through engine and out the back get rid of the cobwebs and anything else. For VIN on paperwork in the paper piles (a system I now use on the real-life desktop to match my wife's system of papers everywhere, Covid has a lot to answer for) any bill from a Dealership, or it's on your V5C (important paper documentation I keep in files, backed up as all this paper is a fire hazard 😆).

Unfortunately the car doesn't read traffic and road conditions like the human can which is why I generally prefer a manual gearbox. Driving different makes and models of cars (with manual gearboxes) I often find the computer suggested gear isn't the one I might want or use, I might go from 3 to 6 instead of the suggested 5 as the road is clear of traffic and on a downhill and other things like the opposite, not going to a higher gear as I approach slower traffic and an uphill. The VW (and others) computer programming is more concern about recorded mpg rather than engine or gearbox life and some/many may prefer it that way.

Hi, short answer - yes the hazard lights flash on and off with the alarm. For more info - for queries like this and for much more information owners/drivers can consult the vehicles Owner's Manal, if you read, even before buying the vehicle, you will learns of very useful information that could save you time, hassle and money and avoid unnecessary expense with Dealerships/mechanics/auto-electricians (and premature expensive 12v car battery replacement). Just for this example only, from a 2018 Fabia Owner's Manual. - You should have a paper printed copy of the Owner's Manual, if so or not you can get a VWŠkoda free pdf version to download of this VWŠkoda site. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For information (mostly covered in the Owner's Manual) covering general Mk3 Fabias the following series of videos are useful. - https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLHH-B9onXpOqdKjFA815CBd7YB4hocem5 HTH.

That was a good video (apart from shot in portrait instead of landscape) and if in somean49;s case it doesn't turn out to be the oil pressure switch at fault or there's another issue in addition to a faulty oil pressure switch I have another possible idea. Using a screw in pressure gauge is a good idea to check the switch regardless, especially if mechanic mate is going to charge for his time and labour.

Well done. Always remember these computers and computer programs have brain-farts and glitches, never fully trust them check whatever they tell when required. It took me a good number of attempts to reset the oil and then inspection on my wife's 2015 Fabia using the trip reset button. Oil I manage in about two or three attempts and inspection a few more, I carefully followed the same procedure each time so I've no idea why I was successful and unsuccessful. Lets hope that you have it sorted until next year. Good luck.

I've never driven one of these DSC things so have no experience of them, sounds like D is probably more set for 'Eco mode' how about have tried giving it more and quicker on the accelerator pedal to see if it can obey what you want from it in D. Or leave it in S and lift off accelerator to get it to change up where you prefer in the revs (I assume you can do this, might be wrong). I've driven a hired 2023 SEAT Arona, 1.0 litre, 3-cylinder turbo, 110hp, 6-speed manual that had 'Eco', 'Standard' and 'Sports' settings, I found 'Eco' was fine if not in traffic that wants to rush about and ''Sport' did seemed to sharpen they way it accelerated (or might just have been my perception. I found it best to drive in 'Standard' which it defaulted to, as I could dictate the revs and gear selection, because it manual, I take little notice of the recommended gear as I seem to have more idea of traffic and road conditions than the on-board computers.

Is the engine in any sort of Eco drive mode?

Well I removed my wife's phone from a 2023 VW product. I tried reading the SEAT's infotainment instruction book but it was beyond my comprehension (not in plain English) so I just went through the menus to set things up as my wife wanted including "installing" and "deinstalling" her phone, I also removed over devices still on there (presumably delivery/collection drivers. We never normally use Tw*tNavs (we have a paper road atlas and I pre-look on Google Earth and Streetview) but I noticed addresses in there including hirer's depot.

I managed to delete phone connection on a 2023 hire SEAT by IIRC going through Bluetooth and paired device, can't remember details but there must have been a delete/remove option on listed devices.

Might depend on model of course but I've got a feeling I've seen on Briskoda that the rear fog fixings(?)and bulb holder(?) are there for UK on a LHD but I could well be wrong as I was the out of date speedo thing. Whether the fog light change needs setting up with an appropriate scan tool I can't remember. All vague all possibly wrong and as with any info all needs checking.

You really need to contact government agencies to get this right otherwise you may get good intentions but incorrect advice - such as IIRC the speedo at some point had to indicate or highlight a 30 mph in some way but I could well be wrong or no longer applies.

Nonsense you car look fabulous in that photo, even more so considering it's a car used for 29 years (and red).

Before ordering a part I'd check the computers aren't on a brain-fart or need resetting from the previous incident with a VW appropriate scan tool making sure the scan tool program for you model and year has been fully updated. IF the scan tool resets anything but there is an actual fault the fault will show with warnings again immediately you start the car so no worries about driving with an actual fault. It's possible to have a coincidence of possibly overfilling oil and an oil switch faulty but 1.5 litres in a near empty engine and the dipstick showing full is strange. I'd trust a correct dipstick used correctly more than any sensor or computer program. Good luck, let us know the outcome of all of this.

I held back as long as I could - you don't need all that, so much of it, to deduce the resonance off the door panel, you are carrying unnecessary extra weight - which means you are reducing your power-to-weight and increasing your mpg !! How is that going to look on the TC-6 spreadsheet. 😉

In the video he said he had spent a lot of time in Slovakia and that region and given he's American or North America, sounding at least he is quite unusual in his travels and efforts of pronunciation, and being able to drive a car with a manual gearbox. His enthusiasm and knowledge seem genuine (and not just getting incorrect facts from the internet and copying what other YouTubes get wrong). I was disappointed the removable rechargeable torch boot light wasn't mentioned, and there's usually mention of the toolkit which some seem to find extensive (and well made) usually from those with no experience of older cars. In America they not only call things different to the UK their English spellings are also different, such as the UK word colour is spelt without the letter u included. In the UK, around my local area at least, Favorit would be "Fav-rit" rather than "Favourite" because of the lack of the letter e on the end. It was mainly the condition of the car, and the fact that, unless I'm mistaken, that it was in America, that got me. The video was also well presented, a couple of minor editing glitches could easily be forgiven with the overall quality and genuine enthusiasm for the subject.

Whichever 50* ** spec is best, usually the current ones, 504 00 might be better than 502 00 if the oil is designed to last longer but you can take your pick which 50* ** you want. - "Recommended for ACEA C3, API SN, SM, SL, . . . Audi / VW Group VW 504 00 / 507 00, VW 506 00 / 506 01, VW 503 00 / 503 01, VW 502 00 / 505 01, VW 502 00 / 505 00, VW 500 00 / 501 01" - https://cdn.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/millersoils/20230912-7877-EE-PERFORMANCE-C3-5w30.pdf

This might interest a few owners of older Škodas, a stunning looking 1990 Favorit 136 LS from a 2024 video. 1990 Škoda Favorit 136LS Review - The Czechoslovakian Car That Made It Out Of Communism! - Enjoy.

In my wife's 2015 1.2 TSI the engine oil is normally warmed to 90c, according to the car's oil temperature display (which is hopefully more accurate than its outside temperature display) at around 7 miles into a journey. I don't even like the car but as I was able to do the engine oil and filter change this year in a short respite from the back issues, partially caused by the bloody VW wheel bolts, I used Millers EE Performance Engine Oil C3 5w30 and Mann filter, both much better quality than the wretched car deserves but it often does journeys of only 2 miles and enough things fail on it already without causing more. I have no interest in getting oils with a VW or VW Aldi Group label on the bottles and little interest in whether the oil has VW's approval as long as it meets their (ever changing) specifications.

I have some idea of how it is as I've only recently been able to get under a car and back up again without some difficulty after a good few years of not being able (thanks partly to bloody silly VW wheel bolts instead of studs but that's only one reason I dislike my wife's VW car) but unfortunately lack of frequent/regular reasonable distance use of the car means you really need to change the oil (and filter) more regularly not less. The 350 motorway miles would do the car a power of good generally.

For a test just take a clean sure earth connection from the battery negative terminal using any suitable length of appropriate wire. For direction live or earth testing I just use a long length of twin wire with four female spade connectors, two at each end, battery end then get crocodile clips to go to battery terminals and other ends gets a wire tail with male spade one end and whatever connector is required at other, a simplified version of some probes, This eliminates any connectors and switches and stuff from battery to item to just test live or earth supply and that the item fully functions with a clean supply.