nta16

I've now used Millers EE Performance MTF 75W "Fully synthetic gear oil with ester technology" a noticeable improvement, and possibly quieter, at £30.64 (including P&P) for two litres it would only be a few pounds more that what you got. The story seems to be that the gearbox is a 2.1 litre, presumably dry fill, I keep meaning to check but I keep forgetting (other companies make this task a lot easier than VW). I forgot to put last time, I think the box is an "overfill" as oil spills out filler plug on level ground so atilt from opposite corner on fill (and drain) but it's not much overfill. Yes selecting another gear first might help if only for the delay it takes to do that but perhaps not or other. Previous posts have covered all my thoughts, other than perhaps checking with a Dealership to see if there are any "technical Bulletins" or whatever they call them ("TPI"?) for this issue on your VIN or perhaps some sort of recall, semi-secret or not. I've never thought these VW gearboxes were that great but I don't think they should be as bad as yours, as I put before I think I've seen something similar on Briskoda but can't remember the details, a Google search might be better than site or forum search (and bring you back to Briskoda which is a bit annoying after doing a site or forum search but Google do have massive resources that small sites can't even dream of or probably know what fully existing, never mind Skynet. 😆 If you find an answer let us know, good luck Tony.

Have a look in the extras for Europe cover. You always have to study what you are buying and read what you actually get rather than assuming (as many seem to do) generally as far as I've seen it's less to buy breakdown cover with the insurance, some even include it in the policy but you have to check how basic the cover is and if it only covers Gb and NI. I always have Legal Cover included and don't go for the lowest premium unless I know they don't outsource everything to overseas call centres or the very, very dumb AI systems, the value of insurance is when you have to make a claim and how good and efficient it is, often "cheap" insurance isn't, and can be very, very expensive in the end. I can recommend going through TopCashback compare to the well-known comparison sites they have and get £45 back from TopCashback, quotes are the same or less than if you don't go through them and you get £45 back off them. - https://compare-carinsurance.topcashback.co.uk/ Good luck.

Have you had a look at the Owner's Manal for the car as there might be a different route to take on the infotainment menus to previous models. When my wife had a 2023 VW SEAT hire car with time and persistence I managed to delete previous phones and before giving it back delete her phone. The paper printed Owner's Manual was too smaller print for me and even getting a pdf version on the desktop so I could zoom in was wasted as whoever authored /translated it thought entirely differently to me. We never used the Tw*tNav but I saw in there that there might be home and work destinations as well as the hire providers location. so if you've used the Tw*tNav do delete anything you put in there particularly your home. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Could you video these intermittent problems when they play up as proof. I think your wife is right and you should bounce it back and get something else. But you could as suggested try another VWŠkoda Dealership and see if there are still any decent Dealerships (garages/mechanics) still about generally. I've always found VW 4-pots, (let alone 3) to be noisy to me and I'm used to BL engines but noisy is different to faulty. You could do a Google search and see if there were any other 2021 1.0 TSI Fabias with similar issues and what the outcome was. The issues might be VWŠkoda build or from something in the history of that particular car, not that it matters if it can be satisfactorily sorted. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Nothing wrong with a change of coolant on a 12 year old car, best filled with one of those pressure things on these engines perhaps but it can be done without. @Hig you have run the engine with the cabin heater temperature set to highest setting?

I doubt your wife's claim would affect your insurance premiums much and as already put taking her off your insurance and leaving you as an only driver might/would increase your premiums, perhaps more than leaving her on as a named driver, you can test this when you next apply to renew your insurance. To claim or not also depends on how much excess is on your wife's policy. often there's a compulsory £100 but if you're both older there may be a 'nil' voluntary or £50 or £100. I am not a legal or insurance expert but I think you're supposed to notify the insurance of any incidents, whoever's fault and whether you are going to claim or not. If your wife puts in a claim it will affect her insurance premium even if she has NCD protection. Again you can vary the premium you pay by adjusting the voluntary excess, sometimes you can lower the voluntary excess you need to pay without the premium increasing, in previous thread on here ways of keeping the premiums lower have been discussed. Good luck, never worry about a bit of metal being bent a bit, it's only a car (including the Golf).

In live data (depending on your scan tool perhaps) you should have a tick box for coolant temperature sensor (s) to view, under engine data I'd expect. Coolant leak would be more steam than smoke, as already put smoke could be oil burning off something like the exhaust (don't breath it in). On tangent, you could also have smoke from things like the brake pads if they're stuck or very heavy use, that would also cause the engine to get hot, as could exhaust problems. It's 12 years old and a diesel, so often lots of dirty oil about the engine bay, as put already if some gets on the exhaust it will burnt, smoke and smell. As well as getting out the sexy big boys toy of scan tool did you also cover the basics like clecking the level (and condition) of the engine oil, and as put earlier has the car been regularly and timely serviced, engine air filter changed when required. Could you check anything to do with the DPF and exhaust with your scan tool. That's me out of ideas.

If you've taken note of previous posts and followed them then you will have the figures for you to decide if the recharging was sufficient and/or you want to buy a new battery but I'd suggest you get someone else to drive the car whilst you are with them and see if what happens when you drive the car also happens when someone else drives the car. A new battery is best 'coded' when fitted or as soon as possible after, particularly if the new battery is "bigger" or different type to factory original battery. You can check the operation of the start/stop system (and lots more useful info) by reading and referring to the car's Owner's Manual, you can view this on the following link 'START STOP' is under 'Starting and driving'. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models If after above you still have the issue then if you have warranty on the car take it in, if so, or not, check there are no outstanding "recalls" on the car particularly about the battery, the charging or start/stop systems on your car. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

VW don't make filters AFAIK (or oil or coolant) so it will be made by another manufacturer then VW printed on it and VW on the packaging. Anyone that prefers to have a VW label on such items then this is totally fine but it's not always the case that a VW labelled part is better quality or more robust than others available even at lower price, the front dampers on my wife's, and others, Mk3 are an example of poorer quality and shorter lasting parts. A filter may look clean until it is compared with a new replacement filter but I'm not too fastidious about dust and dirt for the cabin air filter, I can't think most of the cars I had were fitted with a cabin filter, be a waste of time for the one with roof and windows down. For air-con operation do also check the instructions in the Owner's Manual. Good luck.

I personally have used Mann cabin and engine air filters before on various cars and have found them to be good, they also give fitting instructions. On my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia fitting the cabin filter was the easiest of the various few I have done. You may need to change your filters more in Israel than in the UK and some parts of Europe if you have a lot of sand or such like in your driving conditions or environment. Mann give a choice of types cabin filters usually. I don't often go with Bosch as very often it's just a label but I do have a Bosch battery as I'm told it was made by Varta who make good batteries in my experience. Mann catalogue, you can select from a list of languages - https://www.mann-filter.com/en/catalog.html

You're in the wrong forum, you'd be better looking and/or posting in the 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ Even with the sexy big boy toys you still need to check the basics, if you've not already done so first check the Autel is fully up to date with programs for VW and particularly for your model and year, then confirm what the Car menu gives on the infotainment (probably no more) then bulbs, fuses, etc., etc... Otherwise have a look in that forum and/or ask there. I did see a thread somewhere on Briskoda recently on cornering light issue but sorry I can't remember the details. HTH.

You are looking to complicate things with sexy tools and issues when you should always start with the basics. a) you did not reply to ApertureS's excellent post with basic battery voltage readings b) have you considered that there might be more than one issue any of which might or might not be related (including those basic and very basic error codes). Follow ApertureS's post for battery voltages [ ETA: I prefer voltge reading with a handheld multimeter, probes on battery terminal posts for reading but each to their own ] - I always start with the battery and it's state of charge. The battery doesn't have to be at the end of it's life from a 2020 car in 2024 but that depends on the level of use. abuse and neglect it has been subject to. Sometimes just driving the car even on by doing a motorway run in the day time (at night more electric is used) will not be sufficient to recharge the battery enough let alone anywhere near fully or as fully as it can get. Then an appropriate battery charger maintainer is need to fully recharge the battery (or as much as it can). This is best done at lower amperage charging (say 4-amps or below) after reading the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and charger's instructions, To get the battery fully charged will take a long time but if required it can be done in two lots of charging as soon as possible to each time. Or as you don't know the history of the battery you may prefer to (perhaps prematurely) replace it with a new battery and 'code' it in as required. On a modern car a battery has to be very low in charge not to start the car but may be recoverable for more good service life. To fully reliably diagnosis electric and engine starting issues you need, or at least are best, to have the battery in a good state of charge, a battery in a low state of charge can hinder diagnosis, and very often the state of battery charge can be the problem or partially the problem. Just having the scan tool plugged in will drop the battery reading from it. Personally I'd not suggest leaving the doors open to dry out particularly if cabin lights are left on but also the computer programs might not be at rest. Try all of above, clear any error codes and do another reading and report back. ETA: Whatever scan tool you use you need to be sure that it's appropriate to VW and your model and year of car and that the program for this is fully up to date, don't assume anything if you've borrowed the scanner.

Milligan Auto Diagnostics - https://www.youtube.com/@mrautoservices7354

As far as I remember, which isn't as far at all, you might need to set it up with the steering sensors, perhaps in addition to 'coding' or perhaps not, others will know better. There will probably be videos about this on YouTube or the internet. As merely a start to getting the steering wheel off see my notes and included useful video off YT. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495151-windscreen-wipers-dont-turn-off-come-on-by-themselves/#comment-5557014 HTH a bit.

No they don't. I doubt they have the motor inside them to do so but wouldn't know for sure, looking at parts numbers may show up a difference. I guess your trim level is Ambition. As far as I know if you have manual rear wind-up windows you can not program them to raise or lower from the remote keyfob (a real nuance to me if the car has electric windows, I would prefer all manual wind-up windows personally, less weight, less to go wrong, less farting about to me). Whether models with four electric windows can be programmed and whether a Dealer level programmer is required I don't know. If you want to you can add more details to your name plate, such as mine just as an example, and/or dropping the number 3 from Fabia might save future confusion, or it might just be me confused. -

@Jocko just fyi you can save post space and virtual ink by losing the route bit on the link and just go to the end of the number. - https://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTOPOWER-MP69033-Universal-Diagnostic-Protocol/dp/B07Z3HB7DR/

Yes I did wonder, is your model actually a Fabia Mk2 or are you outside of the UK. According to Wiki (I don't know if it's right or wrong) - "The second generation Fabia trim levels were Classic, Ambiente, Sport and Elegance. In the UK the trim levels were called 1, 2, Sport, 3, and GreenLine (later S, SE, Elegance, and GreenLine). In India, the trim levels were Active, Classic, Ambiente and Elegance. All models sold within the EU were equipped with ABS, front passenger, driver and side airbags. Curtain airbags and ESC were available as an option." Have you got four eclectic door windows or are the two at the rear manual crank handle wind up and not electric (my personal preference)?

I've always found the description trim a bit ambiguous but in this instance I think it means is your 2015 Fabia Mk3 a - S, SE, SE L or Monte Carlo. I don't think it includes the "Colour Concept" but others may think differently.

For info only - VWŠkoda free downloadable pdf versions of the Owner's Manal, including for older cars, are available on the following VWŠkoda link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

To me all modern cars for a couple of decades now have had far too oversized wheels and tyres, it just fashion, and customer demand for fashion too, all this fill the arches. To me 18" is a silly wheel size and 225/40r18 is a silly tyre size but others would want even bigger and wider. 225/45r17 may give a better ride but it's not just about numbers, tyres are a very complex and overlooked important component on the car, an important part of the braking, steering and suspension systems. Different tyres will give different results to all three and the road holding, handling, ride comfort and noise not limited to their size. Possibly you could go for 2015/55r16, depends on your model (size of brakes perhaps). Have a look here for the calculations. - https://tiresize.com/tyre-size-calculator/

If the removable torch (and boot light?) are on same circuit and the supply fuse had blown then the batteries would be flat but charging from flat wouldn't be the cause of the blown fuse, at least not in itself.. With the fused replaced the torch batteries might pick up again given a chance. I'd check the contacts are clean on torch and its charging socket. If the torch doesn't pick up again I assume you can just replace the chargeable batteries, been over 30 years since my wife had that feature on her Favorit. Was you able to plug in an VW appropriate scan tool with the program for your model fully up to date to see if any error codes were stored or live data or actuation tests?

Valves normally would be included as they'd be replaced if they were old tyres on existing wheels.

Thanks for reporting back. Very strange. I assume the 10A fuse looked factory original and correct amperage and fuse location. Wiring can do funny stuff especially with all these computer bits involved but that does sound odd. Wonder what caused the fuse to 'blow' in the first place. If everything works and remains working including replacement fuse then I'd personally not care and be happy it's sorted Well done.

Hi welcome. You'd have to check of course but it sounds like you might just need a replacement light switch. You'd probably be better looking in and/or asking in the 'Škoda Yeti' forum on Briskoda. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/170-škoda-yeti/ HTH.

"Battery Charge Condition" I'm not sure what this means, is it a human language translation from another language to English. Others I've seen show battery charge in volts and battery "health" in percentage. I'll leave this to @rum4mo as I think he has graphs of such(?). Some of those selections would be interesting to see to compare with static tests with a multimeter. Do have a read of those pdfs I put up, and they're from VW.