nta16

Well done. The auto-electrician can do a "report" on his initial scan (off the scan tool to you via email or wotever) this is useful as different scan tools can throw up different anomalies at times as they all have their good and bad points. You'd hope VW specific programs would be most accurate but those and the car's computers can have brain-farts/glitches/programming errors. If he's a good auto-electrician he won't just be relying on a scan tool and will check, double check and cross check information he gets from his various tools and his knowledge, experience and training. Ask for a "report" on the battery 'coding' too for future reference, again it's easy for him to do, especially after already having your details from the first "report", takes seconds to do, no reason not to (altho' I don't know about the ancient system that is VCDS or current VW one. A poster on here had an auto-electrician that put his 70 Ah battery in as 7 Ah and this caused issues later, why a computer program would allow this input error is beyond me but it did. Hopefully the new battery will bring good gains now, it certainly will in the near future if the previous battery really was 5 cells down out of 6, and let's see what Thursday brings. At those quoted prices you can see why you want to be sure if the throttle body is fully at fault, if it is it's a really poor show on the quality and longevity of the part VW use but not a huge surprise given the overall quality of VW ,and other German marques this century/millennium. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Have you put the 3.2v battery back in the fob to see if it works or not after the second battery worked, if not you don't know if it was the 3.2v at fault or not? Tests need to be repeated to check the outcomes are consistent, I've know a (Vauxhall) Dealership installed battery have the remote play up (not work) a good number of and days use after it was installed, I done no more that than take the battery out give it a quick wipe with the inside of my sweatshirt and put it back in (properly) and battery and remote both worked fine for a very long time after. I don't really know the cause and just speculated that the battery might not have been fully seated correctly but it was a quick, easy, no cost, clean hands "repair", the only type of farting about on cars I like and my wife was very pleased with the result. She could have easily done the same but the car stuff is my job.

I am 64 so I can remember when Volvos were Volvo and SAABs were SAAB (and even Škoda wasn't VW) and was thinking of then rather than GM and Ford products. Good to hear you don't have our lower consumer/customer standards that the likes of the car manufacturers and their Dealerships are able to take advantage of here. Although it sounds like that Skoda salesman would be at home in an English Dealership. I am not in Sweden but I still use a better quality oil than the standard Dealership/garage/mechanic/DIY and certainly would in somewhere as cold as Sweden, certainly if I was intending to keep the car for a number or good number of years for the better performance and protection in the very cold (and hot) ambient and running temperatures though I don't think it would make any difference to the warming you want. Good luck with your search.

On that AL301 code reader(?) it shows "1 / 2" so does that mean there was a second error code? For the battery as Warrior193 has put exactly how it is presented depends on the scan tool used and not all may be able to do it for your mum's model and year (depends what programs are on the scan tool). Below is an example from when a Briskoda member 'coded', using OBDEleven, the replacement battery for my wife car a number of days after I fitted it ( I fully charged the battery to 100% before fitting as that is my preference). I changed from a EFB type of battery to an AGM type (without the additional insulation for engine bay fitment, a bit of maverick risk taking), VW call AGM "fleece" (just because they can?). 😁 Personally I'd not loose any sleep over getting the 'coding' done immediately on a change for same type and near enough Ah battery, I think it's better to have it done than not and sooner than later, just in case, but others have reported that they've not bothered with 'coding' and no issues, perhaps the (like for like) battery may (or may not) have a shorter (or bit shorter) life if not 'coded' as new or as soon as possibly but it may depend on hassle to reward ratio of benefit overall. The battery could have lasted more than 6 years if a battery charger was also used but that might be more than your mum (or family) want to get involved in. An 08 car is a new car to me (too new), I now drive my wife's 2015 Fabia, a neighbour's 2023 Ren-No! Nissan Cashcow and another neighbour's 2016 Corsa and until recently another neighbour's 2005 Kia Picanto and by far the best car for me was the 2005 (28k-miles on it). Another neighbour has asked if my wife would sometimes drive their 2016 Suzuki Swift as she has insurance and I don't (I'm a named driver on the other policies) so I know about pensioners and cars and particularly cars that aren't driven often and/or cars that only generally do very short journeys (if that), I'm not sure if that applies to your mum given how long the battery has lasted on that VW. Even my wife's car sometimes only does two 2 mile journeys on a work day. That has led me to the even greater importance of the 12v battery in modern cars particularly with VW's complex computer programs, an experience I am very, very ungrateful about. Until a couple of years ago my one and only car and "daily driver" for the previous 16 years was a 1973 MG Midget. I never had battery problems, every other but never battery. 😆 ETA: Something AI doesn't seem to know (yet?) is that there isn't a code on a new battery, well in VW terms anyway and as you see from my example above VW didn't bother with it at the factory for my wife's 2015 car and I've seen the same for other posters, I guess it was all about statistics for VW originally and warranty issues and parts stocking level plus perhaps potential for VW to blame the battery manufacturers for any ****-ups with their system on to the battery manufacturers, such is the motor trade. My wife's car had a recall "about the battery" CU97 IIRC.

OFF TOPIC I am always surprised at anyone in Sweden buying modern VW products with their history of past marques like Volvo and SAAB, I guess VW must offer your market more than in England and treat its customers better than in England (though generally English Dealerships for any marque can be poor quality). In Australia apparently Škoda new cars get 7(?) years warranty we couldn't dream of 5 let alone 7, yet some "cheaper" marques are able to offer 7 year warranties in England, been that way for decades that "cheaper" car manufacturers can offer longer warranties than the established "better" brands. I only put England as that is my personal experience from decades of the English motor trade. Doesn't help with your topic just my curiosity.

I have no idea if or how much more complicated a 1.0 TSI cooling system is than a Mk1, though a diesel generally takes longer to warm up than a petrol as I was reminded last week when I drove a hired diesel.

It might be that the Green Flag man had a fully updated scan tool, checked all error codes, checked battery and other connections and state of charge and health of battery and it is a throttle body or throttle body sensor error but there's not enough information to confirm that in your posts and things are always worth double and treble checking when so much hassle and cost is involved for your mum, and you. Usually I'd not suggest buying a new battery (but recharging as I suggested) but having lived among and dealt with people well into pension age for four decades I do understand they can have very little patience or understanding sometimes so a new battery is a good choice (personally I'd fully charge the new battery before fitting so I know I start at 100% charge with the new battery in case I need to check the battery only a little later in any episode or end up using a lot of battery charge on diagnostics and testing.. Going through the list on the link, at 6 years old if the car is reasonably serviced I can't think the throttle body would be that dirty, pedal or throttle sensors or connectors or wiring could perhaps play up at any time particularly if other work has been done around them, or accidents or water, that interferes with them, modules you'd hope not. The overlord computer programs always have potential to throw wobbles. Other than draining the battery I can't think what your mum could do to cause the car to behave like this and I don't blame your mum for having zero patience with the car going faulty otherwise. See how things are after fitting the new battery, after fitting try starting the car then turn the headlights on, air-con on, blower on to 4, turn the steering wheel full lock one way then the other, let it tick over for a while. Hopefully the heavy electric load will help "learn" the battery monitor bit. Leaving it to tick over and then going for a short drive might convince the computer overlord that the throttle body is OK (if it is). If not a scan tool is best used to get nearer to the cause of the issue or on to other checks. Good luck.

You are jumping the gun with replacing a throttle body or sensor just based on an error code and the error code could be from elsewhere in the line. P0638 - https://www.obd-codes.com/p0638 Green Flag AFAIK (but I could be wrong) use sub-contractors so their scan tools may vary, so to the diligence of its operator to make sure the scan tool program is fully up to date for your mum's 2018 Fabia. For diagnostics including using a scan tool the car battery needs to be in a reasonable state of charge and health and all electrical connections in good order. So the first thing you need to do is check the battery terminal connections and main cables, wires and connections are all secure, clean and protected including the earths. Start/stop errors and not be active when it should be can be aa parts of other issues but also if the battery is in a lower state of charge than the computers like, this can be before dash warnings and lights with the headlights seeming bright enough and well before the engine presents difficulty in starting. I would check the connections as above, fully charge the battery with an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instructions to do this in the car's Owner's Manual and chargers instructions. Free VWŠkoda download pdf or online version of the Owner's Manual from this link. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Whilst the battery is being fully recharged (this could take many hours, the lower the battery state of charge the more ours obviously) I would seek out someone with a VW appropriate scan tool and get more information than just that (one) error code. Error codes normally are just part of diagnosis not the solution in themselves (though sometimes they can be). There may be ways of testing the sensor without a scan tool but a scan tool should show (or help to) if the throttle body is operating properly. There are Briskoda members with VW appropriate scan tools that can at least provide a report of error codes and other information if not fully diagnosis, some for a beer token or two others perhaps fully professional services. See the opening post here and link to availability map at the end of that first post. Good luck.

I think you might be referring to a preheater or prewarmer, I am sure there used to be 'external' types for heating the coolant pipe for classic cars but I can't find them now here is just to give, or confirm, the idea an (expensive?) 'internal' type example for race cars. - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/automotive-plumbing-solutions-thermostatic-engine-pre-heater-3kw-kit-dtmeph3kwkit/ I expect you already have a coolant thermostat fitted suitable for cold climates also using a better quality engine oil than the Dealerships and general garages that operates better (and offers more protection for longer) at lower ambient temperatures will help with cold starting and running. The days of radiator (grille) blinds has gone of course.

Being used to very old cars and driving back in the very old, and nearer, days I'm used to the habit of driving using the tripmeter as a fuel gauge, means always filling the tank on refills if the gauge is inaccurate anywhere near the full mark or not working at all. If the sender and guage aren't directly linked and go through one of the overlord computer program then personally I'd turn the computer "off 'n' on agen" by depriving and depleting it/them of power (in two both senses) as I prefer the computers working for me and not the other way round. There must be some kind of switch around the fuel filler to let the overlords know when the car is being refuel so perhaps checking that area is clean and unrestricted (there's also often a drain for water to keep clear. I can't remember if I've clean that on my wife's Fabia or not, certainly did on her hire SEAT Arona that was full of debris in the filler area behind the flap.

As my wife has owned a 2015 1.2 TSI from 10k-miles at about 18 months old, so 6.5 years and (another) 56k-miles I personally would not buy a 2017 Fabia Mk3 with 195k-miles on it (then I'd not buy a Mk3 Fabia or other VW or the other two German marques). The probably high annual, mileage in itself isn't a bad thing, better in many ways than very low mileage and use vehicles but it's just about 200k-miles of use and wear, I'd expect to see a service history longer than my arm (s and legs) and history of lots of other work and maintenance, in addition to the car's condition and drive of course. From what I've read on this site and generally heard the Mk3 doesn't seem to be as robust as the late MK2 let alone earlier Mk2s and it seems Mk1s might have easily the most robust. Other models perhaps and certainly other marques of cars at that age and mileage would personally probably less concern and I personally would look at older cars especially with that sort of use.. Other opinions and experiences are available. Plenty of information and experiences of 2016/17s on this forum also. Good luck.

A quick look shows the AL619 does live data but I've no idea what it shows, also says it's updateable via online. There are ways to test the sender but I'd still go with partial refills to just above the drain levels and driving around below and well below or above that level with a bit of sharpness to braking (how much that helps might not be much). When my neighbour's rarely driven car fuel gauge (reading) got stuck I tried adding a gallon or so of fuel and quick runs round and round a few empty roundabouts in both directions and some sharp braking but no difference then next time I went to drive the car the gauge (reading) seemed to just unstick itself and was fine from them on. Just the type of non-PITA, non-farting-about-on-cars, clean-hands "repairs" I much prefer. https://www.autelstore.co.uk/upload/pro/19082915670644993029.pdf

How many petrol refills or partial refills have you done since the drain, have you driven the car much since - it could be something like the fuel tank sender and/or float needs a good shake up to unstick it or it needs replacing (I've no idea how easy or or not it is to replace), Personally, where safe and reasonable to do so, I'd drive the car about with some gusto on bends and and heavy to stop braking with the fuel level at just above or anywhere below what it was when the diesel was drained out. Otherwise perhaps (but I don't know) there's a computer reset required using an appropriate level scan tool suitable for your model and year of VW product (make sure the scan tool program is fully up to date for your model and year. Others than me will know more with certainty, I always like to try simple, quick, easy, free methods that don't involve me getting my hands dirty or farting about with cars before moving on. If a scan tool isn't available I also have a simple method to try for that but its unpopular here with some and it's suggestion seem to really upset them. Good luck let us know how you get on.

Not going against all the great info you've provided and you may well be correct but personally I would check this, if it's the same as the Mk3 Fabia the digital speed display is not permanent, it can be switched/scroll-wheeled to other items checked in the menu. It may pass requirements, I don't know but I'd check with those that either pass or fail this.

Not seen that yet, other than your suggestion but the computer really do not like the battery to be in too lower state of charge for them, this can be before you get any warning messages and certainly well before you get any hesitation, let alone difficulty, of starting the engine and the light might still seem bright. Just driving the car may not recover the battery enough charge to other than temporarily delay the return of the problem, what can often be needed is a recharge using an appropriate battery charger maintainer by following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for charger. Generally it's better to use a 2, 3 or 4-amp charger but to get the battery fully recharged will take longer and may need more than one session if you need to use the car. Even if you have a new battery, 'coded' correctly, at some point in the future, not for a good while hopefully, it'd be best, when required, to do preventative charges with appropriate battery charger maintainer, following the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual, to prevent a repeat of the problem. Just one example other units and providers are available. - Ring RSC900 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Why has the battery only lasted 3 years (other than perhaps the very common premature replacement, instead of recharge) could there be again a fault in the VW battery management systems that requires an update/Recall (again) or is it your use of the car and battery, or an accidental drain (left something switched on, plugged in for too long whilst the car is parked up, engine off so alternator not running) or other drain on battery from a fault. If the battery hadn't been 'coded' or 'coded' wrong your local guy with Vag-Com would/should have picked that up. I think VW have made things more restrictive with what can be done without their scan tools, good revenue stream for them/their Dealerships.

Another quick thought - check the battery terminal connections are secure and that the main live an earth cables connections and wires are all clean, secure and protected. Even if the engine starts and the lights seem bright enough the state of charge of the battery can still be too low for the computers, by the time the battery is unable to start the car it has been severely weakened and will take a lot more to revive it and it may not fully recover.

Voltage sounds good but the car's computers are telling you otherwise. I suggest you buy an appropriate battery charger maintainer and fully recharge the battery. Or if you prefer just replace the battery with a new one to be sure during the upcoming winter, see above for replacement battery 'coding'.. If you have owned the car from new perhaps it is your use of the car and battery or perhaps you have added something to the car with constant drain, You could check to see if there re any VWŠkoda recall on your car perhaps for battery management issues, there was one for my wife's 2015 Fabia. Otherwise something has caused a lower state of health of your battery, or perhaps the battery itself was a wrong one but that would be very uncommon, usually just used as a scapegoat excuse. Let us know how you get on.

Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

The "error" is not giving the overlords computers what they want which is not too low state of charge or they can often play up in all sorts of unexpected ways before you're anywhere near the engine not actually starting. That shouldn't really be so, if you have clicking it shouldn't then start after on the same untouched battery for a flat battery. Any electrical or engine starting issues are always best sorted with a fully charged battery, hopefully your new battery will be fully charged or near enough. Battery may not be holding it's charge or not so well being 8 years old and/or it might (or might not) be you put insufficient charge back into the battery for its condition. Did you check the terminal clamps were secure (tight), same for main earth connection, live and earth cables, wires, connections look OK? A new battery might sort things, just that starting after clicking doesn't fit, unless I've misunderstood. 60, 59Ah, I don't think even the VW overlord computers are that finickity and same EFB type, there is a school of thought that the computers will pick up on the battery improvement with use and I've been told and seen on here were some people have just done a battery change without 'coding' and without issues from not 'coding', whether this ultimately has any effect on the new battery's life only time would tell and then you'd have to factor in that even though the battery is new the rest of the car (alternator, computer systems, sensors, electrics and items) aren't so there more likelihood of the second battery not lasting as long as the first if used in the same. For OBDEleven 'coding' there's (was?)s a choice of EFB or EFB+, unless you've ordered an EFB+ battery (unlikely) obviously you want EFB. As an example only, the following is from when a BriSkoda member used his OBDEleven to 'code' the replacement AGM battery for my wife's Fabia, as already put only the type (EFB, AGM) and Ah (59, 60) and changing the serial number (you can put what you like AFAIK but changing the end digit is easiest) are important (VW call AGM "fleece"). Let us know how you get on.

accosted - Cambridge Dictionary - "accost verb [ T often passive ]" . . . "to go up to or stop and speak to someone in a threatening way" Do you want to change that word, I have never accosted any AA or other breakdown or recovery personnel - and it wouldn't have been possible as I wasn't present when he AA arrived with the XJ owner and no breakdown company was called out to my wife's Fabia just me, she chose the car but I have to sort it out when it plays up and goes wrong. Having to walk 2 miles what tool or tools would you have taken based on the basic information given knowing you regularly alternate use of remote key fobs and change batteries before they run down too much and synchronise the keyblades - and I very much doubted there'd be anything wrong wit the car battery!

Not necessarily but as you got it so low probably best you replace with new given the time of year. Normally I'd suggest using an appropriate battery charger but on a modern car the battery generally has to be very low before it can't start the engine and I'm not sure what you mean by several attempts (one time or several that the engine won't start). You usually get first warning of low state of charge with the start/stop become inactive when it would normally be active, unless there's been a sudden drain of battery power. For disconnect/reconnect the battery and what might need resetting just refer to your car's 'Owner's Manual'. If you don't still have the paper printed copy you can download free from VWŠkoda a pdf copy here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models For resetting often it's just the time of day clock provided you had your electric windows (sunroof) fully closed before battery disconnection. How the computer will punish you for your error is uncertain but If you've not got a tool to 'code' the new battery you can still fit it and try aa few simple things to convince the overlords that you now have a battery in good state of charge. After fitting the new battery, start the car put heater blower on 4 whilst the blower whilst turning the steering wheel to full lock in both directions, then go for a short drive. Did you buy an EFB, 59Ah battery of the same physical size as original?

CTEK are alright, overpriced to me and I prefer something with a needle or numbers to be able to judge or follow progress rather than different coloured LED but the CTEK (if appropriate to EFB) should be fine. A 2, 3 or 4 amp charger is generally better than a 5 amps but of course takes longer (to fully) charge the battery, a 5 amp is generally better than an 8 amp but of course takes longer. If the battery has been correctly coded then you shouldn't, barring accidents or forgetfulness or extreme over use/abuse of the battery need to think about needing to use the charger at least this side of winter or longer or much longer. Depends on your use when driving and if you're a heavy user of electric when the engine isn't running so alternator not doing its job. I saw a chap with a Jag XJ on the coldest day of last winter stranded on the grass verge of a reasonable busy road, he told me he knew the battery charge wasn't great, yet he'd started the car at his work at 5 am sat in it with his boss with the heater and heated seats and more electrics on during their break yet thought he could make it home after his shift. By coincidence I had my multimeter with me (don't ask why as it's yet another moan about my wife's 2015 VW Fabia!) and his battery gave the lowest reading I've ever seen, I even checked the multimeter with a button battery to be sure as it was so cold and it showed what I was expecting,, there was no way back for that XJ battery. You should have no problem cleaning the whole interior whilst listening to the radio if you want and sidelights, if your battery is in a reasonable state of charge which yours should be. I always fully charge a new battery before fitting it, or as soon after fitting as possible, that way you know you started at full which gives a bigger margin for a bit longer and a point of reference if you want or need to check things a bit later (say check alternator or drain during that period if the battery "died suddenly without any warning", as my neighbour said his did on his Citigo last week. (£242 battery and fitting and hopefully correct coding from RAC Homestart). Good luck.

The photo is more to show what the part actually looks like should the OP want to remove the broken part and provided is reference to the source of information. Whether it's worth replacing, at whatever cost from whatever source, or if life can continue without it, is up the car's owner/user.

Hi welcome. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1st8579556tp-parking-ticket-holder-skoda-44570.html

Hi, welcome. As above - also check the state of charge of your car's battery preferably at the battery terminals when the car has been parked up and electrics unused as long ago as possible/practical, a battery in a lower state of charge can upset the car's computers even before any dash warning lights or messages and well, well before the engine has difficulty starting. Plus colder, wetter, frost, snow, shorter days are on the way you want the battery in good condition and state of charge before these.