nta16

Haynes isn't always correct with details - they have a good museum though and have at least one of our members cars in their collection and they have invited our club their to use the little running track so I declare an interest and don't knock them too much (well not often). That's fair enough but would you want an oil cooler for -18c winter weather. I used my Spridgets and all other modern and "classic" cars through all winters and the Spridget coolant gauge did not get too far from the 'C' for cold on some winter days runs and they did not have oil coolers (with or without oilstats) and I had removed the engine driven cooling fan on the last Spridget so the engine would warm up quicker and have more chance not to cool more when driving around town. ETA: presuming it get some airflow there that is a better position for the oil cooler than in front of the water cooling rad.

Yes, but not that part rather the progression from 30 engine oil to 20w-50 it encouraged. Yes I know I've been in debates about oil beliefs for many years mainly related to my last "classic" but also wider debates about engine that I should or should not use from my very first "classic", most responders were basing their posts on out of date information, I've done the same on other subjects, I often get many things wrong but I've learnt through life so do many other people and some are willing to learn and others are not, ordinary mechanics and engineers tend to be quite stubborn and still to what they were trained or learnt even if that was decades ago (you can extended that to some medical people too. Problem is what works for one person or for one car or engine may not work so well for others with the same model (hopefully you heard this from someone else in one of the vids). The vid(s) cover this, the tests relate to a very tiny number of engines so there are numerous variables anyway in the real world and simulated or indoor tests are not the same as real world use only real time can really tell you and then it's a range of results based on numerous variables, this is part of the reason why the German and VW engineers keep changing their recommendations and specifications and numbers on the oils and coolant, along with continuous "improvements" of course. 😁 You have others that know a lot more about this here than I but again it suggests crankcase pressure to me. Have you tried removing the oil filler cap whilst the engine is running at idle to see if that changes the RPM? You could also perhaps try running at just about 'MIN' on the engine dipstick and only top up to that level to regularly keep to that level and see if that makes any difference at all, trying the removing oil filler cap at that level too. Different engine I know, but you could also try putting a rubber glove over the oil filler neck with the cap removed and engine running at various RPM, see if it inflates and how much, this was a good display for an A-series engine owner that had had the car and engine for decades and was trying to get to the bottom of why some A-series Spridgets blue -smoked sometimes when other Spridgets never did. Only out of curiosity do you mean you don't like oil only coolers?

Flat tappet engines (and all engines) need high protection from wear which may include levels of ZDDP, zinc but also other elements to the additive packages, it's the combination of the elements of the additive package and how these suit the engine in question that matters rather than any particular figure or amount of ZDDPs. Having a good quality base oil will help the engine generally but the additive package will be about the base oil and the additive package itself, things working as a team rather than one star player. As for oil/water coolers to me that just seem to complicate things unnecessarily here, something I know the German engineers might favour to be "simply clever" but to me it's not it's doubling the work and risks (or more than double) for something to go wrong, oil and water don't mix together well. As the car doesn't have an oil cooler for all these [ years (decades) ] I'm not sure if it needs one now but it's not my car and looking to the future if there are to be more hotter days more often then it could be a good idea used along with a high quality oil suitable for the extremes of the weather and use of car.

As with everyone else what oil you want to put in your engine and what oil believes you want to accept and reject is up to you but you have taken on the popular beliefs but that doesn't mean they are correct. Just to give you a bit of background the British engines in my British "classics" from the 1960s and 1970s were first built in the late 1940s and early 1950s (that one went on until the new century, year 2000, with some minor updating at the start of the 1980s). These engines were 8v, OHV. I have been driving cars with these engine since 1977, I wouldn't be able to guess how many miles but a lot and not usually slowly. The (proper) Mini that had the A-series engine and shared gearbox was what promoted the use of the early multigrade (20w50) engine oils in the UK at least. In the 1990s I used the contemporary Mobil 1 15W-50 in my cars with those engines and the common wisdom was that the oil would ruin the engines (rot my teeth and steal my looks) usually by old-farts with "classics" that they very rare drove and then like a maiden aunt going to Sunday afternoon tea as they thought the cars would fall apart if driven as they were designed to be. Those engines were fine and performed well and I put many tens of thousands of miles on them the few years I owned them (and I have kept all my teeth (including a baby tooth still in my jaw) and my looks). ZDDP is a useful marketing tool to sell special "classic" engine oils at higher prices for an older oil that should be less expensive, in the UK at least, if want ZDDPs it is the whole additive package that matter more than one ingredient - and then how many ZDDPs is required? Having researched this a bit I have never found a figure for ZDDPs (usually shown as ppm - part per million) for the multigrade 20w-50 popular engine oils in the UK in 1960s nearest I could find was perhaps 600 or 900 or in between yet when I last debated this the "specialist" "classic" car engine oil with ZDDP in bigger letters had IIRC something like 1300 ppm. Now apart from 900 being the highest figure I saw for 1960s as I put before wear protection is given by a range of additives in the additive package. Found this table for API grades of maximum zinc (I don't know if it's correct). SM 800 zinc SF-SL 1000 - 1400 zinc SC-SE 1000 - 1200 zinc SB 1000 zinc SA 0 zinc I have no idea what caused your wear, perhaps too little zinc in an unsuitable additive packages to the engine oils used might have contributed, perhaps not, depends on the particular oils used in your engine in your driving conditions from when the engine was first built (or rebuilt). I am a bit confused why you have chosen a diesel oil and then used API for petrol engine, plus what makes SJ suitable for OHV and not later specs, the link you put up goes to at least SM for backwards compatibility. ETA: just thought diesel may have higher zinc levels(?), I have never looked at diesel engine oils specifically. For your Mobil diesel oil heavy duty means in chisel trucks, mining, quarrying and agricultural industries which I suggest would involve far more heavy-duty loads than your car could ever take - "Mobil Delvac Legend 15W-40 Heavy Duty is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in a wide range of heavy-duty applications and operating environments found in the trucking, mining, construction, quarrying and agricultural industries." No specific to your car but when you have time have a look at these videos for general information regarding ZDDP and wear. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kg7edyYgD8E https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AJ_DO5zfVE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erxjPicpYyw HTH.

There is no such thing as a "classic" they are all just old cars, "classic" are just over-priced and over-valued old cars and I put that having owned and run various "classics" as daily use cars for work, commuting, holidays, tours and club events in the UK and parts of Europe. I've subsidised the British "classic" car market for vehicles, parts and services for 30+ years well in excess of other owners. Youngster have been priced out by older folk who generally own more than one "classic" but rarely drive any of them, they have in the past pushed up the "values" for their sitting assets, now the type of youngster that might have been interested can't afford to buy or run the cars (those that could be used regularly without constant repairs that is). You must consider insurance costs. £750 might not be a lot for the wealthy people that live in Oxfordshire but it seems a fair bit to be considering it's a 24 year old car (it'd be cheap for a "classic" mind, I'd have such a car if I thought it might get through the next one or two Mots without too much cost). £1100 for a 1997 sounds a lot worse to me - but I've no idea of what sells for what. "Classics" have always been about what's fashionable, decades back a show (not top concours) MGB might be £10k whereas a Mk3 Cortina in same condition about £1k, neither were really worth a £1k but the value is what someone pays for it. All totally ridiculous. I bet you'll have no trouble selling a Diane, much more chic and fashionable (well at the moment) I'd guess, ideal for town and country runabout - and electric conversion. 😆 What guarantee can you give for your 2000 Felicia estate and what other offerings can you get for the same money you want for yours, it's got to be MoTd, pay "road tax" and would have to shop around to get unrestricted "classic" insurance on it, limited parts availability, it's not a BL/Rover Mini is it. Such a "mundane" and old car might appeal to me as a runaround but there's not many like me around (that don't already have their own "mundane" old car. I wish you luck selling it and hope the buyer appreciates it.

I think mine was more another VW factory balls-up, but I'm biased I don't like VW products.

ETA: just in case it's the same problem as with my wife's 2015 Fabia or you need to take the stalk off. -

Stalk, relay(?), if front washer is on same fuse as wipers and you are sure all the fuses are OK then stalk seems the place to start. I don't know if any of the computer programs interfere with the wipers and washer but I always suspect computer programs, good job they're not driving the car or take over any driver functions or then where would we all be. 😁

That could be oil or PCV for lots of reasons I think. Did you make ant other changes during the rebuild other than the piston, any vent changes ( I think you're on a carb?)? Blimey, I would move. 😆 I would certainly want a good oil (may be a 50) but yes you could consider an oil cooler but it must have an oilstat for your winter. It depends where the gauge is taking its readings from but they all sound low rather than normal or high but your electric fans might be running and very efficient. Not big "mileage" since rebuild, others would know better if it might ease with further use. You must have your reasons but I thought (might have remembered wrong) that you had petrol/LPG this oil seems to be a really heavy duty diesel oil - "Mobil Delvac Legend 15W-40 Heavy Duty is a Multigrade synthetic Blend diesel engine oil that provides protection for diesel engines operating under severe service conditions for both on- and off-highway applications. Mobil Delvac Legend 15W-40 Heavy Duty is recommended by ExxonMobil for use in a wide range of heavy-duty applications and operating environments found in the trucking, mining, construction, quarrying and agricultural industries."

😆 I am slow and must wear my glasses, I've never noticed the v thing above the S on your name label all makes sense now. 😄 Sorry I had to refresh my memory (I am old), location was only for temperatures plus it gives other views and posters more info, same as hills, loads and towing, by loads I meant passengers, tools, heavy objects being carried rather than road speeds and conditions. -18c and 40c would be very extremes here, for hills loaded up perhaps an oil cooler with oilstat might help if you get a lot of 25c+ days - but the issue as before, when you didn't have an oil cooler, is the oil lost and that's what needs sorting. If you are sure you don't have any external leaks then the oil must be going through the engine, my first thoughts would be things like crank case pressure, things like piston rings I leave to those that know more (I know nothing about such stuff), also how much oil you might lose after engine rebuild in your driving circumstances. At 5,000km I would do another thorough oil (and filter) change and have a look at the oil that comes out, I assume you done an early oil and filter change from engine rebuild and you used basic mineral oil initially from the rebuild. For the oil IIRC the better synthetics run to 125c with 150c peaks which is hot and suitable for race track use of road-type cars so should cover your use plus previously your oil was OK, mind with high oil loss you were putting in fresh new oil regularly. Things like this are proof to me that using good quality oils with greater protection and margins are a good idea in older cars/engines especially if you care about the car/engine, the oil is worth it for when things are running well but especially if not. More for others than me but what colour was this smoke? What coolant temperatures do you show when these oil issues are present and when on the highway in hot weather? How many kms have you done since engine rebuild and how long has this issue ben going on? Those more into the engine rebuilding side will be able to help you more, the issue might not be as big as you might think it is, might go into temporary catch tank just to see or confirm but I could be totally wrong so leave that to others.

As I put it's beyond me but do confirm these reports, if you have a good quality scan tool that is suitable to your car and its program is up to date for the car fair enough, perhaps taking readings at different rpm points might confirm these readings, or even leave at idle and turn air-con, blower, headlights and hazards to load up a bit. If you have access to another scan tool that is suitable for your car and its program is up to date for your car perhaps confirm with that. Just looks odd to me, perhaps it's just the wording (translation) but I am very often wrong and I have no idea what else you would need to interrogate on the injectors or fuel system from tank. Just as you have, do double-check things and confirm. At least you will know one of the places to check if you get a coolant leak (which will be more than some professional mechanics will bother with). I will leave you with those that know much more about the engine, good luck.

To me, and I could well be wrong, those figures could also possibly mean your OBD2 reader is not right or possibly but less likely but still important to check, that the tools program is fully up to date for your model and year of car. Do check as I might be wrong and knowing the German the three pot could be arse-about-face to the 4-pot - as you stand with the front of your thighs facing the grille far left is cylinder 1. Injectors are different to the fuel rail pressure, if correct the (+ ?) 55.36 and - 54% are the ones to be concerned about, is one compensating for the other, can you check anything else to confirm these readings, perhaps misfires per cylinder or other stuff I can't think of. What are any other readings from tank to injectors (pressures/delivery). This is all well above my head but not just accepting one set of computer or other diagnostic figures and double-checking and cross-referencing with other tests and sources I do have some experience of and delaying correct diagnosis and proper final resolution (lazy electricians or other employees).

You are quite right to highly value tyres as they are a very complex component that are often misunderstood and overlooked or not given the prime importance they deserve. In Aus for some reason some owners run their tyres at well over manufacturers' recommendations I've never found out why. I understand that the tyres could be manufactured differently to suit Aus conditions and road surfaces but this would be taken into consideration by VW, at least t for the make, model and sizes sold with the models. Modern cars for decades now have had the fashion for oversized wheels and wide over short tyres, kinda party frocks and high heels which is fine but not best for normal drudgery, race track smoothness great but real world roads not always good. You have two different makes, models, sizes, age and wear of tyres on the two axles so that might give effect to road hold, handling, ride, comfort and noise. You have 18" alloy wheels, unless they are very special wheels they will be heavy, heavier than if they were in 17" or 16". A 215/45 r18, 93 tyre will probably be heavier than a 205/45 r18 non XL tyre, the XL could make a difference to the tyre overall - but with the heavy 18" alloys there's not going to be much odds to the car with any of the weights. You can look anywhere on this site and you will never find me praising the VW engineers unnecessarily, quite the opposite, but within reasonable limits they wont have the standard suspension far out using factory spec components and parts (longevity and quality of parts is a different matter perhaps). The unsprung weight on the four corners is already quite heavy a little more wont upset it. 215/45 r18 against 205/45 r18 nominally only gives 6mm (0.2") difference to sidewall height but then the tyre is XL so presumably stiffer sidewall. You have not got a lightweight sports car you have a heavy, high-rised 5-seater with luggage and possible roof rack and bike rack vehicle where the driver is quite remote from what's going on because of all sorts of electric and electronic driver "aids" and safety devices, insulation, entertainment, ****Nav, phone interreference and interruptions. 215/45 r18 against 205/45 r18 nominally only gives 6mm (0.2") difference to sidewall height but then the tyre is XL so presumably stiffer sidewall. Within in a restricted range the size, width and height of tyres and wheels doesn't make as much difference as perhaps quality and type of tyre fitted, a good 16" wheel with good 16" tyre would probably give a more comfortable and perhaps quieter ride (cabin noise is different to road noise) than the same 18" wheel and 18" tyre, their might be small differences in ride but if required adjust driving will overcome those I'd say and could give improvement overall. You would need another Aus 2017 Scala driver to suggest which tyre might suit you, meaning make and model (and even size) but they'd need to be driving similar to you, similar environment and use, and then you've only got to look at tyre reviews to see one man's meat is another man's poison. You could look and/or ask on the Scala forum here. - 'Škoda Scala' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-škoda-scala/ Generally you'd be better with four tyres of the same make, model, size, age and wear - I assume yours isn't one of these where all four wheels are always driven - have the tyres at the correct pressure, all checked when the tyres are 'cold' with the same reliable pressure gauge (or at least consistent). Despite not being Friday night sparkly 16" wheels and tyres are easily enough especially as you are prepared to put the best tyres on them but you might get a better range of high-performance at 17" but I don't know. These are probably not the answers you were expecting but you are in the 'Tyres & Wheels' forum and not the Project, Styling or Performance sections. 😁 HTH.

Depends on how old your Skyline was and even then IIRC they were rammed full of electronic driver aids unless from the 1960s, try something like a Ford Cortina, or Capri to get more of an idea, no electronics on the brakes or crude and (softer) suspension. The length and width of the wheel corners and weight, along with all the electronic aids of your car and restricted directness to the driver could normally cover general wear, tear and sloppiness to a good extent so when it becomes really noticeable things have possibly got got to a later stage of wear, tear and sloppiness. You could try driving with air-con, heater blower, the infotainment and all other ****Nav, communication and entertainment devices, all off, lower the windows and listen for all the thumps, rattles, squeaks and crashes some VWSkoda models might have then start with looking at the area that's the nosiest and others going back to quietest. For squeaks you could spray the areas one at a time with a good long lasting lubricant like GT85 just to quiet them so you can better hear where thumps, rattles and crashes. Even if you have a lift, big prybars, muscles and/or bodyweight trying to find wear and breaks isn't easy as it's not the same as the weight of the car moving about on the road but an experienced knowledgeable person will have more idea where to look and what to look for and how things might feel. You must always consider that there might be more than one area of fault and that they might interact or combine to give an effect. HTH. A couple more forums you could look in on this Briskoda sites for possible ideas or information about what to do, where to go, who to see in Ireland may possibly be (I don't know as I've not looked for Superbs or Ireland) are - Superb Projects - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/209-superb-projects/ Performance & Tuning Upgrades - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ Tyres & Wheels (can also sometimes cover suspension matters) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/213-tyres-wheels/ Skoda Dealers - Republic of Ireland - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/57-skoda-dealers-republic-of-ireland/ I've no idea if Superbs have active suspension (a mate had a Superb but that was a number of years back and not for too long) but if so obviously you need an appropriate level scan tool that covers your model and year and whoever owners it or uses it isn't too lazy to update it's program for your car (that can make quite a difference with correct diagnosis). There are four pins on Ireland for VCDS (or other owners) that might be near you and might be able to help with a report, wipe codes or even diagnostics, but again you'd have to ask as I don't know). - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

More work than discs yes, but my 47 years of driving I've not found them that bad at all (but I've never own a VW UP). In that time until a couple of years ago for 30+ years I ran various over-priced and over-valued cars called "classics" as dallies, for work, commute, holidays and tours in UK and parts of Europe. The last one was my one and only car for about 16 years and the drum and shoes were good even the cheap replacements drums I stupidly put on to balance the front uprated pads. I loathe farting about with my own car and not that good at it all all but I might as well balls it up as pay the professions that I had to redone a lot of their work anyway. The only difficulty I once had, because I did have the correct tools, was fitting shoes to one side, a mate had always moaned about it but until I'd not had problems previously and the other side of the car was as usual fine. With "classic" car parts during the last 20+ years often being of ****-poor or abysmal quality (and English and European) I did have a rear wheel cylinder leak whereas originals seem to last years and decades but that wasn't the drum or shoes, callipers from such location also leaked. One of the reasons I bought my first (real, not VW) Skoda was because they came with 24-month warranties and the car I got was a Skoda HQ car which they kept until 6k-miles, so 2 months old and about the same price as a 3-year old (Mini) Metro which would have problems at that age. I remember the "poor" quality low-priced Daewoos and their excellent showrooms without sales staff but with computers that could show the cars in colour options unlike the Rover Dealer's computers and moron Life on Mars cops type salesmen, and Daewoo were such low quality they only offered 5-years warranty at the time whereas the high quality Hondas only gave 2 IIRC, even VW were good quality still then and 2 years(?). Most things about working on cars are a PITA, except stupid wheel bolts that can be a pian in the back as well. 😉 Don't get me going on all the extra German coolant and oil numbers and specs, and the extra tools need to do simple jobs on those cars and the stupid airbox, front suspension, . . . And I can imagine how much worse it'll be on a 2023/4 car as I drive my neighbour's - good job VW gives a 7-year warranty, no wait that's in Australia, only the "low" quality marques offer 7 years in the UK. I understand the Euros aren't sponsored by any German marques, I wonder why, the field of dreams and all that. 😁

Just out of interest roughly where do you live? Your stated location to me seems to be some sort computer or keyboard thing, I've no idea as I've never typed and don't do the three or four finger spread across a keyboard for what's supposed to be a short cut, if I can't generally find from a right-click menu I curse the programmer. I live in a part of England that doesn't that often get that cold but even on a coldish summer's day or night I would never have an accessory oil cooler without a thermostat to it.

Hi, welcome. Back effects front (you've probably never driven a rear wheel drive car) front effects rear, one side effects the other, that's why you want you car suspension in balance (tyres are part of the car's suspension as well as braking, steering, road holding and handling ride comfort and noise, tyres are very important). Tyres also need to be at the correct pressure and your car loaded correctly, if you regularly carry half of your tool shed in the boot or have a 25-stone mate that regularly sits in the back or front passenger seat this can make a difference. Do you have any where near you that specialises in suspension set ups and knows what they're talking about and doing (that's not me) perhaps a sports place they're often not as expensive as you think and less costly than places that just fit parts that don't cure the issue, lots of places have the gear but no idea, however the 4-wheel alignment place have told you a rear bush has gone. VW Skoda seem to fit not the best or poorer quality bushes and front dampers at least in my experience of my wife's 2015 Fabia, and brakes and keyfobs, VWs and VWSkodas are not Toyotas or Hondas. If you got on to the Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023) forums and have a look at the threads and posts on these topics you'll probably find loads of info and a sunnier disposition to German marques, particularly VW and VWSkoda, than mine and you can start a thread there too if you want. Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ HTH.

What makes you think you need an oil cooler. Older cars but with similar old engine like yours would have from factory didn't have oil cooler even in warmer climate countries just lower opening 'water' thermostat and perhaps different 'water' rad fan. If you are lugging heavy loads uphill a lot or towing (in an old 1.3 petrol though?) you might have a need but otherwise not usually. Yes if you have an oil cooler you want a thermostat with it otherwise it's the same as not having a 'water' thermostat in cold weather, the engine will take longer to warm up and then may not reach proper operating temperature in very cold weather or shorter journeys in cold weather and the oil could be overcooled to work efficiently and fill with nasties and need changing even more frequently than it should already. Oil wants to be at about at least 90c on a journey or engine use, ignore the coolant temperature gauge 90c as they are often biased to read a rock steady 90 when well above or below or moving around and it's coolant temp not oil temp. For examples only - http://www.mocal.co.uk/products.html By riser plate do you mean a sandwich spacer plate at the oil filter mounting, if so there are different types and varieties, connections only, ones with thermostats perhaps, full and non full flow so it may depend on the filter type normally used it's position on engine and experiences of others as to which to use and not use for your circumstances. There may be a factory or accessory oil cooler fixing kit that includes connectors and hold clips for the hoses. You do not want the rubber hoses unclipped to be cut or worn through by engine or car movement as you can then have a loss of a lot of oil and oil pressure. Unless you are lugging heavy loads uphill a lot or towing (in an old 1.3 petrol though?) a better solution may be to use a very good quality proper (fully) synthetic oil that will deal with hot and much colder temperatures better and offer wider protection with better margins for longer and continue changing the engine oil & filter at book time or distance whichever is soonest. HTH.

I think you might be confusing VW and particularly VW UP (and Skoda Citigo?) with other manufacturers drums brakes for the amount of servicing and awkward work required, as I put I'm not against rear disc brakes, had them on my cars and they're on my wife's 2015 Mk3 Fabia, I know there are many rear drum brakes that very infrequently get any attention and never serviced regularly once a year. I had to take my mate from Northampton up to Lanarkshire Sherriff's Court in the 80s for him to loose his driving licence there, we went in my Skoda Estelle 2 which I told him I was not going above 50 mph as a wheel bearing had gone very noisy and I was waiting to replace. He was a sales rep so used to travelling at 90mph at least, hence his predicament for being caught by a VASCAR Police patrol car, as they were then, at three figures. Even though we set off in plenty of time he whined about the speed more than the bearing so I relented and had long spells at 60-70 before dropping back to 50. We arrived so early in Lanark that we had to wait for the tea-shop type cafe, IIRC opposite the court, to open, court didn't start until 10 am and then he wasn't first case. He got legal representation from the AA or RAC but he still lost his licence and thus his job. IIRC I travelled back at 70 just to cheer him up.

Revolution counter, Speedometer cable 002409191B seems to be available but at the prices I'm not sure of the quality, I'd stick with factory original. I must admit I thought you were previously referring to the plate clamp. For your MoT and emissions if you service the car before and clean parts not normally included in a service (that's just about everything with Dealership/ garage/mechanic service as they just do an engine oil& filter change) this will help reduce emissions. So too will having the engine well warmed before the start of the MoT. I also suggest two full tank fulls of Tesco Momentum99 or Shell V-Power or similar for their added additional cleaning packages have the petrol so that it's being used before, during and just after the MoT. A couple of years back my over priced over valued old car called a "classic" failed it's MoT on something I forgot to check so I arranged for the retest as I was handed the fail note, when I went back the tester had passed duties over to a younger lad and we both chatted and watched as he checked the bit that had previously failed with the car on the lift. As as we did so a drop of oil fell on the young lads face and we laughed, bad mistake he added oil leak as an advisory. Technically that was incorrect but I let it go, next year I wiped the underside clean of any oil just before taking it in for the MoT. With an old British engine they say if it's not leaking then it means it's run out of oil. 🙂

I didn't say there weren't good reasons and wasn't thinking of you or anyone else in particular and those that do choose discs out of fashion and ego are perfectly entitled to, we all have vanities. I totally agree that life is far too short to be farting about with cars more than necessary, I've wasted far, far too much time and money on cars so know this better than most, I was a very, very slow learner. VW (Skodas at least) don't seem to always have the best quality brakes on their cars but I've never been a fan of VW or believed the very out dated marketing hangover of "German engineering quality", certainly not this century or millennium at least. As I think I put before drum brakes are better for wet and damp generally - but obviously not if you have certain VW Skoda products - I didn't need to clean the rear drum brakes on my previous cars with them every 6 months just once a year as part of a service and I prefer the self adjustment of pads and discs - but again VW Skoda factory discs brakes from factory aren't the best (like their front dampers and suspension bushes). My wife and I have learnt from her mistake of buying a VW product so we won't be repeating it.

Probably pure coincidence that stuff is on the internet and telly researchers, and then later perhaps panic stations for some when they find out about what's on the internet and telly researchers. I think (VW) Skoda UK will be putting in some great distance between this matter and themselves leaving the Dealer to sort it or suffer it, perhaps, if applicable, some appeals for compromise to the Dealer from the Motor Ombudsman or Retail Motor Industry Federation organisations but they'll not work on those that are criminally bad or just plain criminals. It'll be interesting to hear what Skoda UK CEO Matthew Bowden and the Executive Team have to report back to you, do let us know if you can, at least until they don't allow it. After all this time and aggro for you someone collecting the heap of a car and calling it quits doesn't seem like it'd be fair recompense for all you have been put through, but you might just want an end to it to get on with your life as you did before this con sternation started.

Funnily enough I saw this only last week when looking for a link for PlusGas, I'd definitely give it a try as I don't think PlusGas is as good as it used to be but perhaps that's rose-tinted glasses I only went to it when my drip can of Rapideeze finally run out. I use up most of my lubricants doing free work for neighbours and often give them the can I'm using so get down my stock quicker. Just recently with one neighbour that I'm doing some regular "gardening" for (with Chinese motor, and carb, mower that he manages to abuse and neglect when I'm not around) I started using the (second and full) can of GT85 I'd left with him and when it ran out I said he could buy two and give one to me but I bought another three cans and took one over to him to have, Sod's Law he'd bought two cans but they'd not arrived. His, when they turned up, were £12.74 for the two 400ml cans (mine £2.75 each), I've told him countless times not to bother with Amazon, my wife picked mine up at ASDA or somewhere. As I no longer have old over-valued and overpriced cars (called "classics") my needs are reduced but I always believe in letting chemicals do the hard work where you can (and have lost what little muscle I had, but the fat returned) I'll keep an eye out for it because if it saves hassle when farting about on cars it's worth every penny to me, my neighbour who had all the garage tools has now moved away, luckily I never needed the 5' breaker bar, probably best as when he lent me one his longer knuckle-saver spanners to get at something in a tight space I tweak'd up too much and stripped the thread, doh, I would have been mad at myself but I know I'm an idiot and at least I'm cheap to employ (as long as I don't break too much).

To me the most unnerving bit is unclipping or disconnecting any plastic connector and they all seem to vary as to how you do this and don't suit my stubby little sausage fingers and hands and those aged plastic near to heat too add more fear, after that getting at the sensor might be 'fun' but removal and replacement of the sensor is just unscrewing it and screwing it back in (without twisting the wires), easy - that of course is until it isn't. 😆 Thing with doing it yourself is that you can allow yourself all the time and patience you have available to do just this job without time and work pressures to rush/bodge it to get on to other stuff.

Why wait around for recovery, it can take a very long time now, with a manual foot pump reinflate the tyre and drive home or to the nearest suitable pub and phone for recovery from there. Do Not rely on the silly TPMS to tell you if a tyre is below pressure and/or going down, by the time it does you will probably already know, check your tyres with a reliable or at least consistent pressure gauge as regularly as required.