nta16

Right this had better be a misunderstanding of languages, no need to "loose your hair over this". As you have not posted a location I don't know if you are in the UK or if English is your first language. I was trying to give you some help not come on to you, I am heterosexual and sure and comfortable in this but I don't care if others have a different orientation (including yourself latent, admitted, accepted or not) or are the same as I. So you can knock any bigotry on the pate, straight off, Sonny-Jim.

Check wiring and connectors/connections are all clean, secure and protected (and so water don't get in). Loose or corroded connection(s), frayed or corroded wires unseen inside their insulation, often seen starting at a connection/connector but can be at other points in the wire(s) particularly if the wire(s) are unsecured where they should be secured and/or rubbing or trapped or caught against something.

The numbers might just be a coincidence and not a date, who knows, not I. I see by checking that I have mentioned before there was someone on this forum not too long ago that knew about R110s (asking about a carb or carb bit) if you can find it your could give him a shout out. Otherwise put up that photo I suggested showing the wiring on the box and others may be able to work it out with or without a car wiring diagram. Or contact VDO, these type of places often love to hear stuff about their old ("classic" / "vintage") units and can be very helpful. - https://vdo-instruments.com/contact-us/ 😄 Always good to get a compliment now and again. As I sometimes said, back in the days of the more 'traditional' meaning of the word, I'm not gay, I'm not even remotely happy. 😒 😄😄😄 Good luck

My wife had sdimilar luckily whilst driving slowly through town centre she said just after she noticed a thin carrier bag blowing in the wind so we assume (always dangerous) that was the cause that time. My wife's had a system inoperative warning for the front collision and rang me from her stop and I just said it's probably a leaf on the rad grille and to forget it, whatever it was the system was fine at next turn on of ignition. These systems are like a very nervous learner driver, flinching and hopping about needlessly but then missing what they're design such as lane "assist" that jumps at the shadow of a leaf blowing ten foot away from the verge but then can't see white lines on the road when it should. The dash amber triangle of doom is 'great', twice, telling us a rear bulb was out when it wasn't but later didn't notice the DRL bulb was blackened (silver), the worst I've ever seen, until at least a week later from when I noticed it. I deliberately waited to change the bulb to see how long the system and computer program would take. What ! What? You went from a Toyota to a VW product ! Really(??) wow, different. You're in for an education. 😄 Good luck.

@Johngerard is the man for those sort of details. Sorry, I don't know and/or can't remember about the date being in the software, the geeky legacy VCDS system isn't my cup of Darjeeling, the printout I posted earlier in this thread from OBDEleven shows the date and time at that point but if that remains I don't know. The battery system is doing a counter up for, possibly premature, how long and what been happening to the battery to do what it thinks is best with it (and when ever has a computer program been wrong). Some people enter the date they change the battery as the redundant "Battery serial number" (perhaps(?) a VW thing to blame the battery supplier for VW errors with charging programing and hardware). The date the battery is installed only tells you a very limited amount of information, there are so many variables including the users of the vehicle wasteful, or not, use of the electricity (put a coin meter on it and they'd be less wasteful, generally) Two schools of thought on that, well three I suppose, one is yes you MUST 'code' a new battery in or HAL9000 will take your first born, another that it doesn't matter if you change battery like for like (technology type, Ah) some have said they have done this and everything has been fine. Whether the new battery life is shorten may takes x-years to really discover. Third is the one I go with - probably best to get the new battery 'coded' in but I don't see it as an absolute instant panic emergency at very exact moment the new battery is fitted, but as soon as (reasonably) possible after. You've got a 2015 VW so you already have high levels of computer electronic "aids" and "assists", nothing like as much as near later years to now but more than enough (or perhaps needed?).

Why on earth are you trusting "AI" ! If you're looking for a great investment opportunity I know an African high-ranking military person that can help you. 😁 AI, :shakehead:. You can turn the Artificial (yes) Intelligence (it is not) off by filing it elsewhere in your programs or, just, if using Google sales engine, each time - after search results turn up totally ignore the whole thing until you have clicked on the 'More' tab then from its dropdown menu click-on 'Web' and that gets rid of some of the usual detritus, still might take two and a half pages to find what once was on the first page.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the following forums on this site. HTH. 'Fabia Projects' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

Are these out of stock or something then? Could a different model air filter be adapted to fit? https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/30-bdic-dic-service-kit/ https://www.webcon.co.uk/products/7024-30-bdicdic-service-kit/ Another air filter adaption possibility? - https://www.carbuilder.com/

By DVM do you mean one of the cheap (£5 or a lot less) plug in little mushroom type things as they may not always be as accurate as you expect, but good enough for general information perhaps. Bear in mind the alternator/generator is also dealing with car electric being used so that will effect readings. some say there's x-amps being used for the car just sitting there with the ignition on and all other electrics off, well as much as you can turn off. Despite what many may think I am very relaxed about the car getting on with sorting its own electrics use and storage and I rarely put multimeter probes on to the battery terminal posts to see what reading it will give at that time. So I don't promote checking on these things too often as it's better to know and understand your particular electric usage with the car and when you might want to give a preventative recharge, as the car will let you know when it needs a (reactive) recharge as you've learnt the signs - or the computer will give you plenty of signs best not ignored (either though some do). It's like having sufficient of any sort of fuel for you needs rather than always running low and constantly having to check and worry about when to replenish. This is from someone who has run out of petrol more than once (in old cars, modern cars need a good level of fuel in the tank to cool the pump).

Typical attitude, very nice to know, lets hope they meet the car coming the other way when they failed and recognised the car. Fantasy island I know. What an attitude for them to have and promote, even otherwise decent people in the motor trade get corrupted to this type of attitude. I ran "classic2 cars as dailies for 30+ years so I saw the cycle of parts quality. I actually spoke with a Manager (who used to work on the line) at First Line about an incorrect thread shown in their catalogue which he instantly knew was wrong because he'd been hands-on but the error remained in their catalogue. I used to know aa little of who owned and manufactured what from the original names but I've forgotten now. I do remember First Line was also Borg & Beck and no better quality but many used to say they bought Bork & Beck and they were good, obviously these weren't owners that actually drove the cars that often. I've had failures from modern day English specialist and motorsport suppliers even though thousands of others didn't. If it wasn't for back luck I'd have very little luck with cars I've owned. God job they're only really totally worthless lumps of metal (and lots of plastic now) and nothing really important in life. 😁

Hi and welcome, I always call modern Skodas VWŠkodas as I feel it's more accurate and you see more press about VW and the stuff they have been up to which gives you more idea about the cars and possible treatment and lies you might, or might not, get from them during your ownership. Other car companies can be as bad or not a lot better and the English motor trade in my personal 50 years experience has never always been the best. Which is why I suggest owners READ and refer to the car's 'Owner's Manuals' to learn about the cars which can help the owners help themselves and avoid some unnecessary (and often expensive) trips to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. You will also then know more about your model/year than many/most other long term owners of your model/year. If you don't have the useful paper printed copy of the 'Owner's Manual' then VWŠkoda have a free website where you can download a pdf copy. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models Here's their "Update portal". - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Their Recall Campaigns (well the ones they actually admit to anyway). - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Always try the "low and slow" standard settings first. The CTEK flash things should decide for themselves what is required (and so do the much less expensive Aldi/Lidl types), 'Recon' is more for a wasted battery or one that has been given buckets loads of use, abuse and neglect, yours is nowhere near that from what you have put, or the car's computers would be giving you pain and making you suffer and pay for your mistake(s). The start/stop not working when it should is the first sign the battery is low in state of charge, the battery state of charge can be too low for the computers yet your headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily, engine not starting is when you've really flattened the battery, usually the computers would be complaining and throwing up all sorts of warning and strange issues well before then (yet some still ignore all this, plenty of posts and threads to confirm this.) As you can probably tell I'm not a VW fan or apologist for them but they might have checked the battery and it was fine at that piont. Think of the battery like an energy store or a bank account, you have to put in as well as take out. The same applies to the battery as the MoT just because one in 365/366 days you are shown a snapshot of it doesn't mean things will always remain that way. The MoT is just one person's (hopefully qualified) opinion of the car meeting the statutory minimum requirements at that one point of time only, a second later could be a fail, or another tester's opinion. Do not put too much faith in an Mot pass it doe not mean things are fine for another 365/366 days. You're crossing a bridge you haven't come to yet, no one has said you haven't treated the battery correctly, some owners see that sort of message quite regularly. See how well the battery picks up with a full 100% recharge and how long it holds it (the car's computer will take it down to around 70(?)-80(?)% as soon as it possibly can anyway. You might get a few more years reliable service out of the battery using a battery charger maintainer more so if doing a few very easy, clean hands, preventative recharges. FYI - AGM batteries in VWs are supposed to have additional insulation to EFB if fitted in the engine bay, the AGM batteries are more expensive and will need 'coding' to the car if replacing EFB (+). As it's a 2020 Superb, loads of electric toys, I've no idea if it has a second 12v battery(?) that would throw a very bit more complexity to the VW hills of complexity too, Superb section owners would know but it'll be in the 'Owner's Manual' too. DO connect the CTEK as instructed in the manuals. A preventative recharge, not reactive as the battery wasn't low, on my wife's 2015 Fabia with the AGM battery I fitted in winter (minus 4 overnight) took 16 hours IIRC, a Superb battery would be bigger so take longer ( I use a 4-amp charger). However long it takes or sessions get the battery to 100% and see how it goes from there, if it doesn't last long then either the battery needs replacing or you are very wasteful with the electric or you have a drain (camera left on, something faulty). Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Thank gawd for that. 😁 That thought never entered my head but one that has seeing that comment (and one for the oldies "Will yer noo be having a sale?" A few years ago, for the previous about 15-20 years anything rubber parts for "classics" were very iffy, brake hose, fuel hose, bushes, etc., etc., some of that bleed into modern car parts too. Merc and others Dealerships (allegedly, of course) having counterfeit parts and so on.

I hope the following helps, say if you need more info. Panic later for now do what was needed on cars decades back and became a need again about a decade or more back particularly with VW products. With stop/start the car's computer system only want to charge the battery to about 80% so that there is 20% room for regenerative top up, whether your car and it's use ever gets anywhere near the 20% is a different matter. What you can do is to recharge the car's 12v by following the instruction in the car's Owner's Manual' (so the computer knows about the recharging) and follow the instruction for an appropriate battery charger maintainer. (£15/£20 from Lidl/Aldi are fine for this or you can go all Audi and buy expensive CTEK). Recharging the battery may take many hours so if you can't do it fully in just one go then do it in two or more sessions but what you want to do is to recharge the battery to 100% (of what it can take) and do this slowly, that is lower amps not fast higher amps for lack of patience. A 4, 5 or 6 amp charger will be fine but a 2 or 3 amp would be better but take longer of course. IF your battery is the original factory fit EFB (+?) then at 5+ years old if it hasn't had a battery charger maintainer used on it before it shows the EFB batteries can be fine and even better if they get some very easy attention. Best is to do preventative recharges using an appropriate battery charger maintainer following the instruction in the car's 'Owner's Manual' and for the charger, rather than shutting the gate after the horse has bolted by recharging because of warning or problems. 2, 3 or 4 times a year winter and summer (batteries don't like the hot or cold and driver's put the battery to a lot of use during both summer and winter). SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf

A good garage will have ways of checking for possible flexi-hose issues, most would just change them as a parts cannon and revenue and profit procedure. When it's brakes -THE most important part of any vehicle - then I'm not sure I would want to use s/h parts unless I fully knew the source and history of the part and even then you only really know if you owned the source car - but others seem happy to use s/h parts with no issues. Then again I've known someone use s/h seatbelts (not from modern VWs) from a crashed vehicle, we joked thery might be red to save cleaning the blood off.

That may not automatically mean the car battery is necessarily in a good state of health and charge for various reasons but if there were no signs otherwise we'll take it as the car battery was OK. Always look at the battery voltage on the scanner and whilst things can be done at lower voltages any stuff that is likely to take time to complete you don't want to take any risks. I follow your logic and it seems a good explanation to me, but like you I'm no expert (in anything). Personally I would sooner that all drivers didn't have things like adaptive cruise control (I'm not even a fan of traditional cruise control) as it takes away responsibilities from the driver so some of them can fart about with other toys on or in the car instead of paying attention to actually driving. But as always each to their own. Good luck.

The 4.82 might be a April 1982 manufacturer date but that is just a guess. Your top photo just shows your reflection to me and little esle, perhaps flatten the box and scan it as a jpg and put that up as an image here or photograph it with a bit of white paper behind the plastic and perhaps at a slight angle to avoid your refection. You look younger hence calling the 1980s vintage. 😄

Were there any updates to car or scanner between first and second try Adaptive Lane Assist, were car and scan tool device both at good states of battery charge, wi-fi, Bluetooth signals good, ignition on or engine running throughou both occasions until very finish. Have you tried contacting the developers of the scanners parts and systems or if they have a users forum. I have zero knowledge of these types but I note on the Vgate iCar Pro 25 webpage it has "Automatic sleep & Wake up wirelessly". You would get more get more info from the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' section. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ Good luck.

Totally, totally agree about the annoyance. Good that you took the car in so early, many/most leave it to the last minute on MoTs. You know the brakes wont totally fail on this. The complexities also add to safety (in real emergencies, hopefully not caused by drivers' reliance on them). Most people want the benefits of these systems and the likes of VW will see "revenue streams" from them. A fail at 55k-miles/8-years I think is just bad luck based on what I've not seen about this on here, I do give VW their due when they deserve it and unless others know better I think the part failure particularly at this point is an exception.

Perhaps you're right but this confuses me, along with other stuff, failed MoT and it's in an airport car park - but then I'm easily confused.

That is going to be difficult if the part was fitted to pass the MoT to get the car to the airport car park, others can only give perhaps possible alternatives, if there are any, but no certainty. All garages (people) do make mistakes but to find and have a decent garage is nowadays is gold, one that looks to save you expense too, rather than looking for unnecessary expensive work and/or treat you like something nasty smelling they have just trod in,like many Dealerships including VWŠkoda, wow, how lucky. I'm glad Pal62v knows of VW products or you can guess what I was thinking about with the car parked up at the airport for two weeks.

I don't think it is a simple fault because it involves a lot of complicated part(s) and programming, the cause might be simple but the resolve isn't. There are some mechanics on the site that will know more about specific faults, parts, diagnosis and resolves, some or one might see your thread and give you more information. A 2015 Fabia will be different to a 2017, 2019, (2020) 2021-on, a Mk3 different to a Mk2, a Mk2 to a Mk1, generally they get more complicated and less reliable as they get newer.

You seem to think your garage has made a misdiagnosis(?). Is it that you are new to 2017 cars and/or the likes of VW/ VWŠkoda cars?

AGM has a different profile for my wife's 2015 Fabia with stop/start. AGM batteries have been used on much older cars without VW's stop/start and battery monitoring computer programs but if your Yeti is a stop/start and you need to 'code' the battery then I'd have thought that you need to 'code' in for AGM instead of EFB. OBDEleven battery adaptation of my wife's car. VCDS How to adapt a new battery.pdf

Hi, welcome. If you have not already seen it among all the other subjects and forums on this site there is a section for Scala. - Škoda Scala - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/384-%C5%A1koda-scala/

How Many Left isn't always accurate because of data entry errors (often by the sales people at some points in time) but on my search of HML it lists four types of Mote Carlo TDI Fabias (three types for 2015) the numbers and information seems mixed up, perhaps you could look at the registrations for 2015-17 here for 1401cc to 1500cc (312 with 7 SORN at quarter 4 of 2024 including Northern Ireland). https://www.howmanyleft.co.uk/?q=Skoda+Fabia+Monte+Carlo+1.4+TDI