nta16

Have you tried posting on the Octavia Mk2 forum. Is VCDS Release 23.11.0:01the latest update for the software or for your model of car (it could be the date for all I know about the (horrible looking to me) VCDS program presentation). A quick Google research returned this thread that had a resolution, you'll need to check the whole thread out, checking the relevant fuse and any other supplies from that fuse was one idea, resolution at the end of that thread for this may of course not be the same for you but might give some/more ideas perhaps. - https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php/198389-The-dreaded-quot-Short-to-ground-MIL-ON-quot It may not apply in your case here but the principle in bulletpoint 4 item in the last post of Page 1 of the thread I've found to apply many times for my work and others. HTH

The Owner's Manual aren't the best written. It's best to do a long, slow, low recharge, in stages if needed (than a quicker, fast, high recharge). Fully recharge the battery, keep going until the appropriate charger maintainer shows full, repeat the charging if you don't have the time on first charging to get to full, if the battery is low this can take many hours overnight, or more if the battery is very low. A very low battery can still start the car and the lights may seem bright enough but the car's computers won't like it and throw up all sorts of unexpected issues and warning lights and messages. If the battery is say a 69 Ah (on battery label) then you divide by 10 so a 6.9 amp charger is recommended usually, 6-amp chargers are sold - or I would use a 4-amp or lower charger maintainer personally. From my wife's 05.2015 Owners Manual - Despite want many men think there's no law against reading manuals and instructions - or doing preventative car battery charging with an appropriate battery charger maintainer a couple of times a year and/or as required. I can give you links to info on car battery charging and the VW stop/start system if you want or there's loads of info on the net (as always some good some not so good or bad). HTH.

Based only on the stretch of road I can see in the photo [ETA: in the Uk] there would probably not be solid white line(s) centre lines - unless perhaps near a road hazard but then more likely just long white line as hazard waning.

Hi, welcome. Assuming (always dangerous do double check) that this website(s) has the correct info. - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/2017/#trim-mk3-nj-2015-2022-10-tsi--109 For different ET. - https://www.willtheyfit.com/ Up to you to check fitment to car and other issues. I'm all for smaller (thinner) wheels and higher profile tyres but cheaper, more comfort and less noise depends on the tyres you fit, not sure about the better mpg depends on rolling resistance of tyres. If Carlston comes by he'll give get lots of info and options. HTH, if not just ask.

Phil, unless or until Carlston swings by you might be better asking on Karoq forum, bear in mind a wheel that fits on paper might not be so easy depending on the tyre you put with it as tyres vary in width with tyre make and model even at the same nominal size, plus take into account if any other changes to the suspension have been made. According to the following link, if their information is correct (I'd be on 16" or 15" if they fit over brakes, more tyre sidewall to cushion the blows, tiny bit more responsive pick up). - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2020/#trim-nu7-2017-2023

The modern version above is good for faster A to B driving in a modern car or perhaps cruising but far too wide for a Spridget and faster or more modern car would be at possibly illegal speeds. In the mid-1980s I used to commute to the next town and it would be like your first photo only with some cars coming from the other way too, usually the line would run at 50 mph (80kph) and most day I would see exactly the same cars and know if were running a little later or earlier by where a certain car would pass-by from the opposite and at which tree on the side of the road. I used to call the row of cars going in my direction a traffic-train and thought if we got a long rope the car at front could pull the rest of us. Only one car, a couple of times that I saw, that ever bothered to overtake and that was probably a sales rep's car as it had the all important 'i' in the boot badge, he never got more than a few cars ahead by the time we got to the town. The road isn't a lot better now, in fact worse as it often features on local radio traffic reports for delays at a small roundabout that wasn't there in the 80s and last time I travelled on it we all went at 40-45 mph (65-72 kph) and it was out of peak times, ah, progress. 😄

Two from a couple of gated field roads not far from where I live, second is just over the county border, quite a few similar roads in Northamptonshire plus other great country roads for Spridget driving. September 2020 Northamptonshire May 2020 just in Warwickshire

@D.FYLAKTOS I was going through the files from my wife's old phone and found a few for you. This is in Wales, you can tell by the clouds, just off one of those roads, September 2017.

If there are worries you can get petrol additives that deal with ethanol. This is all a repeat of when unleaded petrol was introduced in the UK 25-30years ago when many doomsayers in the "classic" scene where saying it would be then end of their cars back then. I expect some/many of the very same doomsayers still have exactly the same vehicles but driving them even less than back then, if that is possible. Rubber doesn't last for ever many old cars will have old rubber and if parked up most (almost all) times then the cars aren't being used as designed so you can expect problems ethanol or not. I can assure you about 20 years back there was a lot of ****-poor rubbish rubber fuel hose being sold by the "classic" car part sellers and at other motor factors in the UK. I bought three different lots of 1/4" rubber hose from three different motor factors in three different counties (areas of the country) and all three leaked in a short space of time. Replaced with Goodyear 6mm (R6 at the time IIRC) and that was fine (and a better fit than 1/4").

I hope you're not suggesting the brilliant German engineers and German engineering quality hadn't prepared for the introduction of ethanol given others markets were using 10% decades before, you're surely not saying the engineers were wrong, I've never know that. 😁 Must have been all others in the company, never engineers. 😉

Hi, you're in the 'Handy Topics & Guides' section, Ill report and suggest this is moved to Superb Mk1 forum where you should get replies more appropriate and relating to the 2.5 V6 tdi if you mention this engine.

Well it's all dealing with ancient technologies, internal combustion engines and car manufacturers computers. 😄 If enough people moaned about America enough on the net their AI might turn on them and we all might be in trouble, luckily they're far too invasive to allow this unless others hide it from them. 😄 Thank gawd we have ethanol to worry about instead. 😄

First thing I'd do is check the state of charge of the battery and that the battery terminals and their clamps are clean and secure, whilst there that the battery is secure and the main cables connections (including earths) are also clean, secure and protected. Charge the battery with an appropriate charger maintainer to full (over stages if necessary). After that and/or if not that, or as well as, plug in a VW appropriate scan tool and get a report and diagnosis from there checking not just taking a scan tool reported fault as being absolute. If you have someone near on this list they may be able to help for free, beer token or other. - Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me) HTH.

Checking the tape deck with a diy stethoscope is the quickest and easiest check and potentially lead to the easiest thing to stop the noise, as it's UK I might even recognise an old player and even still have the U-bar keys in a tool box.

You need to tell the VW engineers then, from opening post. - Source - Skoda - https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-confirms-all-new-models-are-fully-compatible-with-e10-fuel

ETA: put a photo up of the "tape player" - old cassette units used to have two slots each side for oblong bar releasing keys to go into to release the side retainers so the unit could be pulled forward and out.

Hi, Rob. Very sensible, power steering isn't usually needed in small light cars (unlike the overweight over-wheeled and tyre'd even very small cars modern cars). Central locking just adds weight to the car and more complexity and things to go wrong and you can't just wind the windows up and down without remembering to take the keys, PITA on warm and hot days. I'm with your dad. I was also thinking of water leaks or ingress. That's the thing to check then - as it might be on it's own supply with wire inline fuse and a permanent live that doesn't go via the ignition switch, diy stethoscope time, the vibrations could travel (that's what sound is after all).

IIRC the 5% and 10% were always maximum figures and the UK petrol pump would be labelled as "E5" even if the petrol (not necessarily Shell) at that time had 0% (zero) ethanol in it. The video put up was titled with 17-12-2021 (How Much Ethanol Does Shell V-Power E5 Fuel Really Contain V's Shell Standard E10 Petrol 17-12-2021) so is out of date with the situation since sometime in 2023 (IIRC). And don't take too much notice of the vague time from listing YT puts up. If you research corn growing in America you'll see what this was all about and why food was altered and caused so many problems with their foods which of course invaded the UK's, I often say if you have 'America' as a fiend you never need look for more enemies. Of course this ethanol stuff ain't exactly a new idea, just as an example the poster below is for a UK petrol that was about in the 1960s (even before I was driving) so I was told. - http://www.petrolmaps.co.uk/clevelan.htm

Listening again with cheap 'shell' (full seal and covering of ears) it does sound like a fan/propeller type sound with possibly a catch to something or wobble on bearing or bearing wobble or catching type sound. Water pump(?), alternator I think are out as the engine's not running so leaves(?) blower fan or radiator cooling fan or something else if it is that type of noise. Things that are readily accessible should be fairly easy to hear or lightly feel even perhaps see. In a car you don't know the history of your suspicions may go to something away from factory fitted wiring and items to anything added or changed after the car left the factory, but these are only suspicions and could be entirely wrong. Be interesting to find out what it is and the resolve.

Shouldn't that lose power with ignition off (normally).

This was suggested to my wife [ETA: but we declined it] when the, as I now know unnecessary, rubber belt change at 5yr/50k was done for (IIRC) £420 which would have been better for us to stay in our bank account rather than raising more revenue and profit for the Skoda Dealership, not that I mind about it, much. 😄

On a car new to you (if you're going to keep this car) I always suggest three things - a proper and full service and maintenance to the whole car possibly done in stages whilst using the car to get used to the car and how it drives and how to drive it, at least ASAP doing whole car service checks, priority to brakes, steering, suspension (all three include tyres) , safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, wipers) and glass (windows, mirrors), see and be seen, engine is down the list (usually). read and refer to the Owner's Manual (in fact I suggest doing this when considering buying the model) make sure the car battery is in a good state of charge (use an appropriate charger maintainer if required) and in good condition, check battery terminals and clamps are clean and secure (same for main cables and connections including earths) as this will help anyway and with any starting or electrical issues and diagnosis of them. Justin as you put you want to be a mechanic (I'm not in any way) this also applies as much as to an owner/driver, much servicing, maintenance and repairs often boils down to clean and lubricate and can be done by anyone if I can do it, such as changing the engine oil & filter and cleaning the airbox and tubes. even though PITA that some of the Skoda models present in this simple task. Your car seems like it may need more than this but will require the basics to be dealt with anyway for best results. Also for a diesel I personally would run the first three tankfulls with "clean" diesel such as Shell V-Power and a tankful or two either side of a engine service or MoT. And I would be particularly very timely and thorough in my changes of engine oil and filter (GIGO). Most car parts now are too expensive and systems too complicated to swap out as just-in-case or just to see, that's without the added labour costs, so careful, checked, diagnostics are generally required but still better to have things reasonably clean and cleaning running to help with those diagnostics, a sensor covered in stuff will affect the running of the car or system and scan report. A good mechanic is also honest about his work and the work required whether that's a great deal, a lot or very little or even next to nothing or nothing, in my many decades of experience there are many fewer good mechanics (or other tradesmen) than there should be. Good luck.

I know this topic has been covered in posts before but as I had the sites open for another topic I thought I would post the sources of information here too. The E5 higher octane petrols also have higher cleaning additives which may give medium and long term benefits of use. PDF of some E5 petrols available (as at 23/12/23). petrol.pdf Source - some blokes off the internet. " . . . drivers of classic ŠKODA models built before 2001 will need to opt for a different grade. Drivers of Felicia models with a 1.3 litre engine built between 1994 to 2001 and all classic models built before 1994 will still be able to source compatible fuels despite the introduction of E10 unleaded. High octane Super unleaded fuel, which is widely available at larger filling stations, will continue have a maximum of 5% bioethanol. Drivers concerned about their car’s compatibility with E10 fuel are advised to check on the UK government’s online check tool: https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/ or consult with their retailer.". Source - Skoda - https://www.skoda.co.uk/news/details/skoda-confirms-all-new-models-are-fully-compatible-with-e10-fuel "Škoda E10 petrol is cleared for use in all ŠKODA vehicles with petrol engines with the following exceptions: Felicia 1.3 litre OHV (40kw and 50kW) engines in the production years 1994 to 2001 Other ŠKODA models using the 1.3 litre OHV engines produced prior to 1994. NOTE: If your vehicle is listed above you should continue to use E5 petrol. If you are unsure please contact your local Škoda dealer. I'm still not sure if my vehicle is E10 compatible- If you're not sure if you can use E10 in your vehicle: check the vehicle owner's manual, the instructional booklet is specific to your vehicle look inside of the fuel filler flap ask the car, motorcycle or scooter manufacturer / local dealer If you're still not sure, use E5 petrol. It will still be available in the super grade at many filling stations All content is available under the Open Government Licence v3.0, except where otherwise stated © Crown copyright" Source - GOV.UK - https://check-vehicle-compatibility-e10-petrol.service.gov.uk/manufacturer/Škoda

All over this site, from July 2023 rubber belts at 15 years 180,000 miles but checks each year, doesn't allow for any VW ****-ups with tensioners, or water pumps if driven off these belts which I don't think these are but always check any information you get from any source including manufacturers and some strange bloke down the pub or off the internet (especially if 'is memory ain't the best).

There's also the additional cleaning additives in the higher octane petrols which may give some medium or longer term benefits - but as always each to their own. It's a bit like stop/start isn't great for saving fuel but does save on the emissions coming out when the vehicle is stationary, more noticeable when at a busy town/city junction - but I personally only generally use it at those times and deactivate it at other times, unless I think I might be stationary for a while in which case I reactivate it for Sod's Law seconds later be able to drive off.