nta16

@dorix thanks for reporting back. So often is the battery, despite many still not accepting the possibility, but it also shows it is best always to start with the basics before moving on, in fact you usually cannot successfully carry out further diagnostics without first checking the basics. Some unscrupulous tradesmen rely on the basics not being checked to make money out of stuff owners could do for themselves (if the owner wants to that is). Nice easy fix is to fully recharge the battery but if you have left it too late then a new battery and something learnt for the future to prevent it happening again. Goods luck. .

Well, you left me guessing. Short posts are great but only if they convey the information, as is obvious I don't do ****ter or FaceAche style of posts and being old easily confused. Perhaps you and I just don't gel, no one's fault it's just how things can be, I can bow out, wish you the best and leave you to more suitable others. Perhaps you want to ignore the basics and go on to the sexy 'coding' stuff , or if you've made a mistake with 'coding' I'll know nothing about it or be able to help you but others can, in which case you may want to have a look at and perhaps post in 'Diagnostics & VCDS'. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ If not - Bulb has been checked - how? Has the bulb been put in another part of the light cluster or in the light cluster on the other side where the bulbs there are known to work? ...and the answer to above is? Is the bottom nearside light position for rear side light only? .... answer to above is - yes, no and maybe, depends on 'function and 'coding'. Is that position on the RHS light cluster also for rear fog light? ... answer to above is - yes it can be if 'coded' for such Is the bulb in that position (on LHS) marked up for W5W (5w, capless (501) or P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380) or other? ... and the answer to above is? Have you checked live and earth at the LHS bottom bulb holder part of the LHS cluster? ... and the answer to the above is?

Talk about turnaround - Volvo and SAAB when they actually truly used to design and build them were very good cars a league above the likes of VAG products how sad you have to put up with their inferior products in your country in place of your previously own products. Hopefully you might be too young to know the previous large difference in design and build quality between them. to be too disheartened by the modern offerings. The Skoda manuals on their website for manuals shows they have gone from downloadable pdfs of the original paper printed copies to digital versions that tell you even less than the previous versions and VW hold back information other manufacturers freely give like capacities and oil mutigrades to instead insist on their number systems which they (like other) change overtime as things progress and VW change specifications (a cynic might suggest for previous mistakes). Digital versions of the printed paper manuals do have some advantages and some disadvantages and it is often best to have copies of digital files (such as a paper printed book that does not rely on battery power and can be easily viewed in daylight and on sunny days). VWSkoda Owner's Manuals website with free downloadable pdf versions of printed paper version of the Owner's Manual for earlier cars (when the website is working). - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Modern public car owners want information immediately when they want it and not a second before so Google for video for things like how find the fuel filling flap so things like preparation and looking in an index or at paper printed pages is far too slow and requires a small amount of thought which they do not have the time for. For many reasons it is to the car manufacturers advantage that the customers do only the driving and less and less of that. Many years back the set up of the public buying and owning a car was outdated and not the best business model for car manufacturers but that is a whole new other topic . . . 🙃

AfAIK in the UK the LHS fog light isn't usually enable from factory. So if the bulb is a P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380 have you put the bulb in opposite way round with the offset pins on the wrong side?

Well some engineers and mechanics will tell you that it is a waste of time and money to change the transmission oil as it will last the life of the car, that is correct it is just a matter of if you believe that the oil, and the additive package with the oil, remain good enough throughout that whole time of the car. Personally, and there is evidence, I see/believe that that fresh oil will be better as it will be overall less worn (for want of a better word) but people, as with other matters, can have strong believe on this either way and debating oil beliefs is endless. VW makes no recommendations for the change so to me a reasonable idea would be say 5 years or 100,000 km but 6 years or 120,000 km would also be fine or perhaps sooner or later than both figures as it depends on a number of variables with use and style of driving. I personally have changed transmission oil oils on a number of vehicles I have owned and driven and felt a benefit but some say it is placebo (i am fooling myself) or I believe the marketing of oil companies (well I am far too old and jaded for that now). I never intended doing anything on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 and for personal reasons only started when it was 5.5 years old and had 38k-miles (61,000km) with a gearbox oil change. I have also changed the coolant but think that could have waited until the car was 10 years old, but hopefully we would have shot of it by then. If you change the oil you want to check first that you get the right oil and that you can get at and loosen the fill/level plug - you don't want to take the drain plug out and then find you cannot get the fill plug out. Best to get the transmission oil hot or warm (usual cautions here) and remove the fill plug to ease flow and volume and leave to drain for as long as practical to get as much of the old oil out so as much fresh new oil can go in. There will always be some residue of old oil left in you are just trying to reduce this amount of residue. I personally at the end of the drain pour some warmed (solar gain or oil bottle in hot water) fresh new oil into the transmission with the drain plug still out to act as a sort of little end flush/rinse and again let that fully drain for as long as practical. I have no idea what a "longlife" service is other than perhaps a delayed engine oil change, most Dealership/garage servicing is just an engine oil & filter change and a look for other chargeable work and does not cover the whole car really, the engine is not one of the most important things on a car that needs attention though it does need attention. Priorities are BRAKES, steering, suspension (all three include tyres), safety electrics (lights, horn, wipers, etc.) and windows and mirrors (see and be seen). Long post, but I hope that helps.

I'm a big fan of direct wiring from the car's battery (clamp) posts for testing items, one or both, for clean live and earth (subject to testing this supply before use) - you can get those probes that do this too but I could never get my head around them. For my Midget I had a long twin lead and a load of various terminal tails for direct connects as much as possible and a bulb, switch and fuse on one where it could be used for a yes / no / and an idea of how bright that inline test bulb gets. But nothing beats using all of the actual parts in situ for testing or confirming where you can. Slightly easier wiring on a 1973 MG Midget than a modern car or jet fighter though. 😄 Time before last when I had to fit a rear bulb to my wife's 2015 Fabia I forgot my own advice and only thought about testing the bulb or its fitted operation until I'd finished fitting the (one) screw and stood back, called my wife out to test this brake light and guess what - of course Sod's Law applied the new bulb didn't illuminate. 7 year old shed stock, duff new bulb (when bought) and I'd given away or fitted to my neighbours' cars all of the rest of my stock of that bulb and I had to got to Halfords and could only get 25% longer life. Do as i say not as I do. 😄

No worries, you replied honestly, I was in the wrong. And there's no problem with disagreeing, debating, arguing or agreeing to disagree, all best dome without falling out or at least being able to move on from it and perhaps being able to accept or perhaps agree something else after, and personally I think if there can be a bit of good humour either way or better still both ways it's some positive at least. I have plenty of car experiences and a little knowledge, much of it often forgotten or I mix up and I wish I could be smart at explaining most times I'm not but I am working at a level just above someone new to things so can often understand what might not be known and cover things that others who know more might miss or have forgotten about because it's so obvious to them. Even then i sometimes forget my own basic advices and someone adds what i've missed on the basics. My hobbyhorse is the car's (nominal) 12v battery and how important it is for the battery not to be allowed to get into a low or very low state of charge particularly on a modern car and with stop/start and that preventative use of an appropriate battery charger when required will help the expensive battery to a longer and better performing life and help prevent all sorts of unexpected warning lights and messages and car issues even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough. A good state of charge also helps with diagnostics off starting or electrical issues whereas a low state of charge could hinder or even prevent proper diagnosis. Oh, and the other thing I bang on about is that it's not illegal in anyway for men to read instructions before use, during use and as help with issues, in particular the Owner's Manual, reading it can help prevent having to go to a mechanic or garage for some car issues, and prevent issues. That's me totally depleted of modern car knowledge . . . opinions, I'm endless, my mate said everyone's entitled to my opinion - whether they want it or not. 😄 Cheers.

Ok, need to review and check what's' been checked and how I've had internment bulbs and even fuse so it can be a case of checking and rechecking what's been checked and recheck results. I've know new bulbs not work straight out of the packaging (and one be intermittent), standard modern made bulbs can be of very low quality I always suggest going for the X2 (double lifespan) or special order pick up next day or so X3 life (treble lifespan) from Halfords or elsewhere. So please bear with me. Car - Skoda Octavia Mk3 2014 Tdi Elegance - nearside rear light bottom bulb doesn't illuminate. First what is the LHS (nearside) bottom bulb supposed to light up for sidelight or fog light - if fog light the foglight only illuminates on the RHS from factory - if suidelight carry on with questions below. Put your headlights on and the rear fog light on to check positioning of fog light. Have the ignition on and check position of rear brake light by getting someoine to press the pedal or wedge it with a stick (against drivers seat and move seat to a forward position to press the pedal enough, have something to stop the end of the stick damaging the seat hardback book, cutting board, ect.). Bulb has been checked - how? Has the bulb been put in another part of the light cluster or in the light cluster on the other side where the bulbs there are known to work? Is the bottom nearside light position for rear sidelight only? Is that position on the RHS light cluster also for rear fog light? Is the bulb in that position (on LHS) marked up for W5W (5w, capless (501) or P21/5 (21w/5w, offset bayonet (380) or other? Have you checked live and earth at the LHS bottom bulb holder part of the LHS cluster? Whatever test equipment you are using did you check it was working properly before using the tester for testing?

I use waterless wash and wax (and a couple of microfibre clothes (which have to be washed (but fabric conditioner not used) at some point so not entirely waterless) over the rear window, (wiper arm and blade if fitted) high level brake lights, rear lights and number plate. Rarely can I be arsed to clean the paint on the hatch door of my wife's Fabia as I had enough farting about cleaning cars to last me my lifetime. I also clean the front and wing lights, front number plate too - and sometimes the door glasses and door mirrors too, rarely the body paintwork. See and be seen. None of this takes long and can be done in whatever stages whenever wanted or needed, just doing the front and rear lights and number plates makes the car look cleaner if that sort of thing is of the slightest worry.

Yeah sorry about that I can see it, considered it but still went with it given the handle which I thought/hoped was ironic, I put my hands up it was a mistake which I couldn't edit with a strike-thorough on text left to show the mistake. Which is another point, i make lots of mistakes but no longer worry about it now given how forums go. At one time I used to start all my posts with I'm not a mechanic or expert in anything on every post but that annoyed some and It was suggested that it wasn't needed on these forums. I do sometimes struggle with words, spellings and meanings so throw in non-specific words that annoy the more technical but as long as most get the jist of what I mean I don't worry. Yeah that fine but also others reduce the wheel size, increasing the size of the sidewall because of our 3rd-world roads and for more comfort. Buying your bigger wheels s/h gives you more scope perhaps to recover some of the cost by selling back o IF you find the same as some others - which of course you might not and like the wheels and tyres, and the combination of which tyres to wheels, and the way they ride, only you can know that for yourself. There's lots of info on this forum and on the site generally and from those that the the subject and express it a lot better than me. You can always ask questions but it's difficult to ask about you're not aware of or not fully aware of so I tend to give wider answers than the quick specific answers as I take it if anyone just wants the quick short answer they won't bother with what I put which is far enough and they may weell already know what I've added and more and better about it but often that can't be known and I consider the very many viewers only as well as the posters. I unusually suggest with many things that the poster also look at the forum for their particular model as other owners may have already taken the same route or know about it if questions are posted on that forum. Good luck, whatever you decide and do a report back after an appropriate time of use can help others looking at the same sort of thing. Cheers.

Yes they were coping some motorsports cars of the time I think same way as had their road cars with seat very low so many of them could barely see over the dash out of fashion rather than sporting need on a car already overweight (like the some/most of the VW offererings) and then installing loads of other weight for mods and must been seen-with fittings. Just because it was something on a car in a magazine didn't always mean it was strictly, or loosely, road legal, note than cover doesn't look like it's on a UK road (perhaps I'm wrong) start of the "show" number plates, plates with wrong character spacing to try to say something, wrong, fonts, and colours and types and plate that "couldn't" be picked up on cameras. 😄 Not all but many were just youngsters rebelling, with the use of their parents money often, and the attitudes of the boys and girls expressed in the magazine weren't the highest. Some had fabulous cars many didn't. My mate was on a suppliers stand at the NEC for a Max Power show and he said it was rammed all prices for parking and programs and everything else were higher than other shows (particularly the old-farts "classic" car shows there) yet the show goes were happy with the costs, he said many in their early middle and late 20s spending their patents money happily, He said their was a stall selling gold necklace chain off the reel. 😆 Took me ages to work out what "pink or brown" might mean and I daren't ask.

Sorry, mate, didn't think you'd be so thin skinned using such a handle I thought you'd have more self awareness, irony, humour. You'll note Carlston has also given you info and hints on 16" wheels. On the forum(s) you'll find I do give lots of advice and next paragraph some for you, if you want it, you may not and that's fair enough but please don't take offence (I can't know what you know or not on a subject) - but if you want take the gate and whole garden too, if you want to, and you can dress yourself and your car however you want I don't mind. Being old does mean I've driven a few cars over the decades so at least have some experience as well as been through (and seen return) loads of fashions, though the fashion for oversized wheels and tyres has continued for a few decades now, and I've no idea of male or female dressing fashions. 😄 Tyres are a very important and complex component on the car, over one or two sizes their grip and handling has less to do with their size and much more to do with their design, build, compounds, make and model, Sizes are nominal so all comparisons about sizes are slightly general, some tyres are wider than others of the same size and some will fit the wheel differently to another of the same size. Comparisons sites and calculators only take you so far and should be used as a general guide and all sources of information generally have errors and omissions including manufacturers and bloke on the internet like me and others so always check any information if possible with one or two other reliable sources. Written by a sometimes very macho man but I'm glad to say generally I'm not because of all the negatives it brings with it - and low heels wearer even tho' Im short. 😄

Sorry just had to smile at the irony, handle of MachoMan and fitting high heels wheels to the car. Don't take this seriously, it's your car you do as you please, just made me smile. ☺️ I'm an old-fart so I'd be going for 16" wheels and higher (they're still low profile) tyres for more comfort (possibly pick up feel) and definitely steel wheels for a diesel - but it'd be a strange world if we were all the same, just put elsewhere 70 used to be low profile. ☺️

The 1" difference in rim width will alter how the 165/70/13 tyre walls are to the different rim wheel widths. How they feel and operate also depends a lot on the specific make and model of tyres, how old the tyres are their use, abused and wear. Old and/or little used tyres can have loads of tread wear left on them and still be poor for braking, steering, suspension road holding, handling ride comfort and noise, the sidewalls could have seen a lot of life. On my 1973 Midget that I used as a daily driver for 16 years until nearly two years ago the standard steel wheels were 4.5" rims with 145/80/13 tyres, 165/70/13 were the low profile wider "boy racer" size of tyre, the Midget model not many years earlier which I had I put on the original 3.5" wide steel wheels with 145/80/13 (15.5" steering wheel on both models) the car was a delight on this size of wheels and tyres. Tyres are more about their design, build and compounds than a tyre size up a little, of course they do have to be suitable gto rim fit and fit to vehicle.

I can't remember needing any allen keys just imperial spanners and sockets back when I was young and stupid enough to fart about with the old-bangers I could afford. Now I do it not out of choice but for other reasons, including but not restricted to costs reasons. My sets of small DIY allens keys which I've bought from the late 1970s to 13 years ago only go up to 6mm. Last year I lost my set of small DIY Draper imperial allen keys, I was so annoyed as I've had them since the late 1970s and even though they were a standard plain set along with some screwdrivers I've lost from that time they were better made than equivalent (of higher quality) modern made replacements. Again I saw somewhere I read that the rear calipers could remain in situ but lack of confidence in this I bought the set of Hex bits and Sod's Law I didn't need them (and wonder if I'll ever use them). As I put replacing the discs on this car was the easiest in my limited experience, perhaps if I ever done it again (gawdd, I hope not) I might find it more awkward but from my past experience know that it is possible for me to do it without touching the calipers as I've done it before. If I can do it anyone can (if the same).

Is it, was it, is the law retrospective? In UK you can have vehicles without front wipers (in certain instances) let alone rear wipers. It's important to keep all windows and mirrors reasonably clean and clear includes door windows and exterior mirrors but they don't have wipers and washers on them or most front lights and never rear lights that are very important. As put many cars, even hatchbacks and estates (combi, "touring" as the German marques seem to call them) didn't use to have a rear wiper or washer and mirrors went heated drivers had to use their mobile electronics (their brains) and take on more personal responsibility for how they prepared and drove their vehicles and not rely on buttons in them to do all the work for them and not expect them to also take all responsibilities. So many cars now covered in dirt with just wiper blades areas of clear windows and same for heavy snow, rear lights and number plates totally masked - especially VAG diesels, no wonder black is the favoured paint colour for these models.

Never rely on just parking sensors and cameras as accidents still happen with these fitted as people get too reliant on them and too lazy to fully check the screen(s) or mirrors or if required get out of the vehicle and check behind (or in front if front camera) or have someone else, reliable, to help you. Camera lenses also need to be kept clean for better quality images. I'm sure many new to cars and driving now expect a button to wipe their bottoms for them, don't join that movement. 😒

You might be better posting in the Octavia forum than here. If it's not the bulb or holder then next down the line are connector and wires to connector, you could test for a live getting that far. When you put holder is this the whole unit for all the bulbs or an individual bulb holder and presumed nothing LED. Good luck.

ETA: Again you will know this for sure if you open it up IIRC four screws(?).. Find the wiper type and you might find new plastic gears sets are available (perhaps NOS?), if exact degrees of sweep aren't available other degrees of sweep may be, that increase or decrease area of sweep but still cover enough, or not go too far, for purpose. I would perhaps use the modern VW Aldi Audi/Bentley engineering material of choice fantastic-plastic to effect an adaption to the existing motor to locate and hold it in position and even perhaps some off-cut bits of old rubber to increase the vibration resistance of the motor mounting and when in operation, again in the spirit of Audi/Bentley, you can claim Bentley standard motor then. 😄

Perhaps it can be fixed and the thread issue overcome with and adaption for secure fixing and location through the existing holes in the door - and I don't think you need necessarily (though I don't know as I don't have the motor to look at or play with) any sort of engineering workshop or specialist tools. The work will be hidden behind the door painted metal skin and internal panel trim out of sight, the fixing outside mostly cover by the bottom of the arm a bit of black paint would disguise or hide any DIY clumsiness. If it's broke already and you fail to repair and install it you've lost only time and whatever bits you used on it. Or you could pay 50 euro and get a new replacement (or claim off your insurance if that's cost effective and not much hassle (you never would over here usually at least £100 compulsory excess on the insurance and many have up to £500 voluntary excess on top of whatever compulsory (being old we have £100 compulsory and zero voluntary excess (well we did last year). Or - my choice - blank off and seal the hole and forget about a rear wiper loads of cars didn't have them, clean the rear window when you clean the rear lights and number plate, you're supposed to glance through the rear window not try and see how much the bloke behind is picking his nose whilst driving, a quick look, is it safe to do what you are going to do next as far as what is behind you is concerned, a reasonably clear view, you have door or side mirror(s) no doubt too.

Millers Oils (if correct) list as (MTF) 75w GL-4 with a load of VW TL oil numbers for the DKRC 81Kw engine, 0DQ(?) 6/1 box - 2.2 litre capacity - EE Performance would be my choice for this very infrequent job, I'd buy two bottles as you're very likely to have 0.2+ litre left in the box even from a hot drain left to drain for ages, and more with a cold quick drain. - https://www.millersoils.co.uk/which-oil/ Opie Oils has different info but still MTF 75w GL-4 and I think it covers double-dry clutch, double-wet clutch, DSG or S-tronic and some manual boxes but do double check all info and VW and or Skoda oil, spec, part, numbers if you worry about such things - nothing is made straight forwards nowaday and particularly from the likes of the German marques and brands. This next video sounds correct with label but it's to cold and wet for me to be bothered to go outside and check at the moment and you can check on your car possibly easier (Note, IIRC the label only has some of the "extras"listed.)

I forget where I got the H7 info from but I bought a full set of H 'pins' anyway then found (on the rear brakes of my wife's 2015 car) the discs were easily removable without touching the caliper or carrier, I did have to angle them in and arc them to position but it was easy, even for a ham-fisted non-mechanic like me. I've no idea if other models, trim levels or later carrs had different rear brakes than on my wife's car but to be honest I can't remember checking if the caliper were H7 or H8 as the first disc went on so easy without touching the caliper or carrier - so H8 is a good correction to offer. I also can't remember if the fronts or back were easiest to replace (on my wife's 2015 SE) but both were the easiest to do in my limited experience of the few different types I've done and both front and rear sem to continue working well.

If it's the battery try fully recharging it with an appropriate battery charger (not fast charge) this may take a good number of hours so you need time and patience - or as above if you can't be bothered or really do not have the time to fully recharge then buy a new battery and try not to let it get in such a low state of charge in future or you might flog it to death again. Good luck.

If it's a no loss situation, that is you can't use it now so if whatever you do doesn't work you've lost nothing you could try a repair/adaption by the look of the motor Mike has put up, and no need for an electrician. The electrical connection looks to be a simple socket and plug and it looks like (though I don't know for sure) the motor mounting is very straightforward. So you can easily take the motor out and test it directly off a 12v battery, such as the one installed in the car, for its running and put a bit of resistance to the arm and blade to see if it can cope. If it passes the test you could look at something to go from motor arm through door panel and secured and weather seal perhaps using some of the bits you already have or make something else up, depends on what you have available or can get. What's the motor is out you could perhaps clean it internally electrically and mechanically perhaps and it might run for many more years from doing so. There's nothing complicated about any of this, you might have to be a bit inventive but you have lots of time to work things out and do the work.

The idea is to locate the drive through the door skin and hold it at the correct angle for the wiper arm and blade to the rear window also to seal the hole so water doesn't get to inside. As it is the rear wiper you could just remove the motor and blank off and seal the hole in the door (unless your MoT doesn't allow this). If you want or need to keep the wiper then take the motor out to see what, if anything, can be done or adapted to hold the drive in position and see the motor mounting in the door with trim panel off. Might mean kicky-bally (Wendyball as local Rugby Football fans call it here) team fans(?).