nta16

Sorry I didn't mean you had to have the bonnet open, I just did that as it made it easy for me to see the figures on the charger by just looking out the spare room window, with a torch as the backlight goes out, and it saves me having to guess how much longer the charging might take and having to get dressed up to go outside at such temperatures. Only this lunchtime I put that charger on to my neighbour's car and as he worries someone might steal something from the engine bay I hook the wire under a bit of plastic on the slam panel and shut the bonnet, lock the car so that its alarm is also on. Means the charger also has the computers drawing power but hopefully some of them go to sleep at some point. 0.3v draw initially at least. I only wonder if someone might steal the charger. 😄

That page also has 'Smartphone Connectivity', 'Bluetooth' and 'Radio station logos'. - Sorry I would not know if there a system update for a 2023 car but if there is I hope it might be covered with warranty or service agreement but if your VWSkoda lot are like ors in UK then probably not. AFAIK there is no over air updating, perhaps this is to give the named brand (VW) more separation and prestige against its Skoda brand to keep VW prices differentials. Previous models to yours I know can be updated using an SD type of thingy card, best on a long car run I believe as the update takes a long time I believe and you need the engine to be running to ensure electric supply from battery/alternator. The amount of electronics and computer programs on a 2023 car, and consumer use, you want an appropriate battery charger maintainer anyway to get the battery past a few years trouble-free life That sounds like a car warranty issue, doesn't your Dealership deal with such things under warranty? If you don't get answers here from others you could try posting in the Scala forum, or try asking fab567. Hope that helps, that me right out of ideas, I have had to put up with computers not doing as we were promised they would from the 1970s, same for mobile phones since the 1980s so I have little faith in them and particularly on things like moving heavy objects like cars, let the computers do everything, what could possibly go wrong, still it keeps my wife in (often very frustrating) employment, she counts down the hours to retirement. 😄

I've just posted this elsewhere and it might apply to you, VWSkoda update "portal". - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Hi, welcome. I don't know if this would help but if you've not looked it might be worth a look also, VWSkoda update "portal". - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/

Thanks for reporting back. Glad you're happy with your Ring RSC906 and that it works well for you. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc906-6a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html Took 12 hours that time, future preventative charges shouldn't take as long. You don't need the luxury of a garage to use the 4-amp and you can fully recharge the battery in more than one session if required. In the photo I put up in this thread earlier I think it was a 14 or 15 hours session outside when the temperature was around or below +5c to -4c followed by a one hour session, with the car being used on a very short daily work commute between the two, to get the 60 Ah (AGM) battery to fully charged.

Quick thoughts. - Are you sure he replaced the anti-roll bars, are they special and not just metal bars? I'm also not sure what you mean by lower part of the springs but might be missing something. There could be two different issues or one issues causing the knock and tyre wear. The dampers (shocks) - are they akward to get off for your garage to have taken them off to test. There is also a Tyres & Wheels forum yo could try if you don't get many responses here. A bit of tangent advice, we had a diesel folding roof car so I would suggest for the sake of the driver and passengers (and everyone else around) you run it on something like V-power diesel (at least every 3rd tankful, better all the time) so you get clouds of white/silver smoke rather than the usual black (check your rear mirrors on gear drop hard acceleration). The stuff out of the exhaust doesn't all go behind the vehicle. And changes of engine air filter, oil and oil filter and other cleaning can help.

Yes please report back. Sorry I missed your post before now. @Carlston will let you know what fits and you can let us know if those 17" alloy wheels from a Seat Leon MK3 fit and can be successfully used.

You've covered this subject in depth previously, also that a coolant does more than just protection from freezing or boiling, and various combinations to use as a coolant.

Not for the sudden change but for generally better gear changes and particularly in cold weather check the oil level in your gearbox and a change of gear oil could be beneficial and changing to a good synthetic gear oil could further improve gear changes particularly on colder days. I've had much older, and younger, cars than 26 years old and have found changing the gearbox (and rear axle gear oil). I changed the gear oil in my wife's 2015 Fabia 5-speed manual at 6 years and 38,000-miles and she said it made an improvement and we have been together f..a..r too many decades for her to say anything just to prove me right or please me.

Have look at this thread - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520881-help-with-tuned-second-hand-fabia/ Or if you're more easily bored and/or want instant answers then you could perhaps skip to the latest post on that thread - but I'm not sure everyone would agree about the posters idea on brakes and particularly braided hoses giving increase in brake performance, I've braided brake hoses but not for that reason and tyres are the most neglected brake improvement component, tho' the poster has recognised their importance. -https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/520881-help-with-tuned-second-hand-fabia/page/2/#comment-5836928 Here's the download of the petrel info Rooted put up. - petrol.pdf HTH.

It's a very common mistake that because there are no very obvious signs otherwise that a battery must be in a reasonable state of charge and certainly not a low state of charge. 2 hours is a very short time for a recharge on a battery that threw up warning lights or messages. It could be that you used a higher amperage charger and/or the charge doesn't hold as long and will be required again sooner. VW recommend 0.1 of the battery Ah for the charger when charging the battery on the car so say 60 Ah battery has a 6-amp charger at most. I personally, with back up from battery manufacturers, would use lower that takes longer. I use a 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer on my wife's 2015 Fabia with a 60 ah (AGM) battery fitted to carry out preventative charges. I would more happily use a 3 or 2 amp "smart" charger maintainer even if it meant taking more than one charging session to get the battery to fully charged. Read and follow the instructions in the car's Owner's Manual and for the charger. Well done on having the battery last 9 years, so far, you might/could get more good useful out of the battery with checking the state of charge and when required fully recharging it with an appropriate charger maintainer (lower and slower rather than higher and faster) when required or better still in a preventative fashion.

Is that button start faulty or some sort of system code of pushing the button to get the car to start or stop - even if it was fully functioning well, why bother with such stuff on an older car, it just seems to add complication and potential for faults to a system that works perfectly well already - but as always each to their own. Push button start goes back to before I was born so not exactly novel either. I find the systems on modern cars, particularly the latest cars are more of an interfering PITA to actually being able to, and need to, actually drive the car rather than be a semi-passive passenger behind the steering wheel. Moan over, for now. 😁

This is overridden by the program of locking the car, I checked twice that the (manually) switched on map lights went out when the car was locked using the remote keyfob. The computer programs do have their uses and can get somethings right - but too many uses and too few useful in my miserable, moany, old-farts opinion. The battery will discharge a bit but hopefully not enough to cause any issues and it won't have anything to do with the map lights so OldKaroq can continue with peace of mind and sound sleep. 😌

Assuming the site has correct info it shows 2019 Fabias as - https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/fabia/ Bolt Pattern (PCD): 5x100 Center Bore / Hub Bore: 57.1 mm Thread Size: M14 x 1.5 Which is the same as my wife's 2015 Fabia. If you're getting an actual spare 'get-you-home' wheel (and) kit then I recommend also adding in to it two of these wheel alignment guide tool, mount hanger bolts/studs to make roadside, or at home, wheel changes easier and less injurious to your back (cos of them bl**dy stupid wheel bolts instead of studs). - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334375280678 Don't let your daughter be like most drivers and have the spare below correct inflation for use (or flat) by having her check its pressure regularly same as for the other four tyres.

Just checked with my wife's 2015 Fabia and can confirm previous findings. the map lights will remain on after opening the car again as their switches are locked on, requiring only a push of each switch to turn them off again.

The following isn't to say too late now but to help for the future. You put you turn the start/stop off and that it was noticeable that the starting hasn't It hasn't turned over as quickly just recently - that was your warning, don't wait for lights or messages, and don't take too much notice of the battery "magic eye" or ball (I think they only work on one out of the six cells anyway?) putting the battery on a long, low. slow charge with an appropriate battery charger maintainer then may have recovered it enough for a bit more more useful life. Appropriate use of an appropriate charger maintainer for preventive charges previously may have extended the useful battery life even further and when necessary could extend the useful life of the new battery, bear in mind the alternator and car are no longer new as they originally were for the previous battery. I go with best to 'code' the battery just to be sure but don't panic about it being done absolutely at point of new battery installation. I would fit the new battery and immediately fully charge it (won't take long if the new battery is well charged, ready to fit doesn't always /usually(?) mean fully charged) with an appropriate battery charger maintainer reading and following the advice in the car's Owner's Manual and battery charger instructions that way the car's computer program can see the battery has ben charged to full so might then know, even if not told by 'coding' that the battery is new, that the battery is fully charged and not on its arse as before. After you fitted and fully charged the new battery start the car, with the engine running turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways, put the lights and air-con on, to my mind this will tell the computers the car can cope with the electrical load so battery (alternator) are up to snuff so it can rest it's little mind. I might be wrong with this and it's unnecessary but it's all quick, easy, virtually free of cost and you're out of the elements and not getting your hands dirty so best type of car work to try. Another bit of info you also might or might not be interested in, to save virtual space and virtual ink you can put direct hyperlink to eBay items by just putting up to the end of the item (itm) number, e.g. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254879881479 Terminal type looks OK to me, see "Compare terminal type" here. - https://www.tayna.co.uk/tutorials/how-to-choose-a-car-battery The Hankook 60AH SE56010 is 560 CCA (EN) according to their catalogue (page 21). - https://cdn.hankook-atlasbx.com/PRD/CUSTOMER/20210817/4e4fbc9f-6367-4134-ba7c-a3e33e1e31ca/HANKOOK_GLOBAL_C.pdf Moll batteries IIRC(?) were rated at CCA EN(?). CCA and EN Ratings on Car Batteries Explained - https://growenergy.com.au/news/15616-cca-en-ratings-car-batteries VAarta Blue Dynamic EFB 12v 60Ah (560500064) (027 EFB) is 640 CCA (EN) - https://cdn.tayna.com/datasheets/Varta N60 Blue Dynamic EFB 560 500 064 Data Sheet.pdf HTH.

The possibles are sensor(s} error/fault and/or part(s)s fault((s) and/or programing errors. Any VWSkoda program updates on your model/VIN? In that case does the VCDS do live recordings graphs of the temperature sensors, intake-air temperature seems a good one to look at along with perhaps coolant sensors, air pressure Could be a single thing or perhaps combination that the computer programs are trying to correct for (or perhaps messing up). Have a look at and note your oil temperature reading when your your "water" temperature gauge needle(?) just gets to 90 and again later look at and note your oil temperature reading as the "water" needle remains at 90. At over 100,00-miles you will want things like sensors and throttle body reasonably clean physically and electronically for the computer programs to be functioning well from the info given to them. IIRC with my neighbour's DIY/semi-professional/professional scan tool there were 638(?) data points for the engine on my wife's 2015 Fabia 1.2 TSI. Again I am out of ideas - and sorry for repeating stuff as I didn't read the old posts before.

Sorry missed that jumping from page 1 to 2 - there is a pin shown for Moscow though! Unfortunately none showing in Poland.

My wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 had a VWSkoda UK Recall done in August 2018, 97CU - AFAIK "Technical background - For Škoda vehicles of a certain production period the energy management of the vehicle battery has been optimised. Remedy - On the affected vehicles the onboard supply control unit must be reprogrammed (see criterions)." I (prematurely to save hassle) fitted an AGM battery to my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 in December 2021 and a Biskoda member 'coded'; it for me and since then I've found it best to do preventative fully recharging with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, and more often than I'd expected, as the car does only short journeys most days. I find Halfords to be usually expensive for car batteries plus they sometimes have their own numbering system for the batteries that doesn't match other numbering systems and from what I've read on this site their 'coding' practices seem variable and unreliable. Many EFB batteries that I've noticed have a 4 year warranty and AGM 5 years but a good battery is a good battery regardless of numbers (Ah, cranking, warranty). I and others on here use Tayna for car batteries - many other suppliers are available though, the choice is always with you. -https://www.tayna.co.uk/ A friend has a couple of identical Ctek expensive chargers yet they vary a little to each other in use and performance so I'm personally not impressed with Ctek as I know others that get perfectly good performance from the likes of Lidl £15 "smart" start/stop chargers and maintainers. I personal went for a £23 Ring (4-amp) "smart" charger and maintainer and have found it fine in use on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 and neighbours cars (with and with out start/stop batteries). Model now changed to Ring 900, probably available from other than Ring at lower price). - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html

Another idea - is this with higher electrical loads like air-con on, turning steering wheel, others, does your start/stop always work when it should or do you get messages or warning lights - have you checked the state of charge of your battery at the battery terminal posts a good few hours after last driving the car? For checking the checking the throttle body setting you might find someone on the following list near you able to help you with this or a report, some for free or beer tokens others perhaps as part of a professional service so at some other charge. -Briskoda VCDS Owners Map (click me)

Many apologises, I'm not the best at reading posts at the best of times but yesterday (now) for some reason I got out of bed not knowing my arse from my elbow and it remained all day, I hope it's the start of a cold or just an off-day. Thanks for reporting back and well done on finding the problem and solving it.

More rubbish now deleted.

Hi welcome. A load of rubbish, even worse than usual - now deleted.

@simonba you may have already done so but in case not, have you checked the Owner';s Manual.

If it wasn't easy I would not be able to do it, I'm no mechanic (although like most of us I can sometimes do a better job than some professional mechanics). Your car and gearbox may well be different from my wife's 2015 Fabia but the principles would be the same if yours is a 5-speed manual (not DSG). The PITA was the plastic cover under the engine, I had to put the car on breeze blocks (95mm high) to lift it the car so I could reasonably comfortably get under there and remove all the torx screws (T25 IIRC) that hold the cover on. Once the plastic cover is removed there was enough room to get at the gearbox fill/level and drain plugs. On this gearbox (PED 02T) the fill and drain plugs weren't at a big difference in their level on the box and the fill plug was a bit of play to get a tool at and undo, not difficult just a bit awkward as Sod's Law whatever I had available wasn't ideal length but could be done. IIRC the plug fitting was something annoying like a H7 not in my tools so borrowed. When I had a look to see what tools I would need and check I could loosen the fill plug and remove it (cold box and oil) I took the fill plug out a little and had a fair run of oil which suggested to me that perhaps the box was overfilled when fitted/delivered to factory I don't know if that is the case or the case for all but the car needs to be level for refilling (unless you lift the car higher one side and overfill again). Filling was best done for with the help of my (reluctant) "glamorous assistant" hold a funnel with a length hose attached in the engine bay to slowly pour the fresh oil in for refill whilst I laid under the car making sure the other end of the hose remained at the edge of the filler hole and to shout stop when the oil overflowed out of the filler hole. Of course you could use other methods. As I couldn't turn the gears in the gearbox to check oil fill level again I put the fill plug back in and went for a quick short drive leaving the plastic cover off and breeze blocks in place. I had a mug of tea and done some better stuff than farting about with cars (that's a lot of other things for me) to make sure gearbox and oil are cold to check level, look for leaks before I put the plastic cover back on and tidy up, clean the tools and put them away. I always take a lot of time on these jobs I never go at any pace other than slowly, I couldn't care less about any macho rubbish about how quick someone else can do the job (the usually exaggerate and don't allow for setting everything up, checking work and putting everything away anyway). I also allow time for teas and pees and getting distracted by doing more interesting stuff. I used to get neighbours ask what I was doing but they soon learnt that if I was working on our cars I was best left alone (yet I don't mind working on neighbours cars and stopping for a chat as I volunteer for those jobs). There, much more than you needed or wanted to know, and without telling you much. 😄