nta16

The VWSkoda manuals are far from perfect, I think they might have been written by a German student engineer then translated to Chinese and then from Chinese to English and VW likes to keep somethings secret that other manufacturers tell you about. To be fair, the VW Owner's Manuals have at least better illustrations than some in my neighbour's new Ren-No! (Nissan) Owner's Manual. I don't know if it's just that unit in your car or whether Ireland being part of Europe (which UK apparently isn't) whether you might get variation(s) on your car that we don't see in the UK. Being old I'm used to manual air-con, if you had a saloon it might be a 4/60 system, you wound (hand-cranked) 4 windows down and drove at 60mph. 😁

😄 Fair enough. 😄 I misread the 'A' as 'R'. 😄 The start/stop isn't just for city traffic it's for any stop to reduce emissions, subject to the computer programs being happy it can be deployed, when these conditions have been mostly meet but it still doesn't deploy it can be that the 12v battery is i n a low state of charge. Now being able to access a 11/2018 Owner's Manual via said site it's somewhat dispiriting to read from it - "The system function depends on many factors. Some of them are down to the driver, the others are systemic and can neither be influenced nor identified" - doesn't say a lot about the computer programing! 😄 The VWSkoda way with heating/cooling controls and their settings is different to what I'm used to (and annoying to me). Seems like perhaps(?) kvndgr8's car also might not have "Recirculated air mode", from 11/2018 Owner's Manual.

Fair enough, I thought I remembered posts / threads / links about VCDS adaptions and on Fabias. Sorry I've no idea what DTS is stands for or ever used VCD so leave it all for someone that does know, plenty of VCDS users and fans around. Then perhaps the new lights and all electrics are all fine and it's a computer program setting as you believe. Good luck with all.

If you are referring to adaption using a scan tool (such as VCDS but not necessarily) you might be better posting or looking at the thread(s) in the 'Diagnostics & VCDS' forum for this. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ LEDs tend to be more sensitive to supply or earth issues so are you sure everything has been sorted with the repair replacement, also not all LEDs are equal in quality some are good or very good some can be poor or rubbish. I am confused (not unusual) by this, that is the normal function, on my wife's 2015 (filament bulbs) the DRLs can be set to (all time) off or on as you have put via a menu in the infotainment screen but your menu might be different for your country and/or year of car. HTH.

Obviously the units vary, I was guessing the 'R' button on kvndgr8's was for recirculate but I could well be wrong, the appropriate Owner's Manual for the car will explain controls and function of the system. AGFalco's photo of the filter housing with releasing clip to the left backs up the photo I've taken from the Mann filter 'Mounting Instruction' attached. CU_CUK_FP 26 006.pdf

Above an image from the internet, it says it's for a Citigo. Have you noticed that yet, if not don't worry about it. All modern cars now all have oversized wheels and wider tyres so more rubber debris in the air and down the drains, more diesel cars after the 1990s con so more crap from their exhausts than previously and of course more cars on the roads overall, many doing very sort distant journeys where they don't fully warm so running well below full efficiency and cleanliness. But if you've not noticed anything yet then don't worry about it. The air-con is useful for cooling a hot cabin in summer and clearing condensation caused by various reasons, You must be young, it's not that far back that small cars didn't have air-con and going back a bit you'd have to have a luxury car to have it or it be on the list of options. We survived many decades without air-con in summers and winters, it is possible, hotter now for many reasons and cars have to be locked and sealed up, and with better sealing, so hold more cabin heat and for longer, also even a Citigo is a bigger car with probably(?) more glass on it than earlier small cars so possibly gets more solar gain (heat from the sun) and more sealed so holds the heat in - but you can overcome most/some of this with a little effort. If you need advice on such things just ask. Normally setting the heater to cold (and keeping the recirculation off) will get cold or cooler air from outside into the cabin, if need the output to the cabin can be speeded up and assisted by turning the blower on to 1, 2, 3 or 4. If you need to know more about operating your heating/cooling system you (and your mechanic, he's the one I worry about) then just read the Owner's Manual for your car for this and other stuff you need to know about your car, free Skoda pdf download free here. - https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models Again, if you read and when required refer to the Owner's Manual you'll learn and know a lot about your car and how to maintain and drive it and could save yourself lots of time, hassle and money by sometimes avoiding garages and mechanics. A lot of servicing, maintenance and repairs just boil down to clean and lubricate (including electronics and computers), some/much of it is so simple even I can do it, so you could if you wanted, including most (possibly all) of the service your mechanic might have done. Have you got a list of what was done in the recent service as most services are far from full for the whole car and many services are no more or little more than a change of engine oil change and (hopefully) engine oil filter and a look around for more chargeable work. There's a lot more to a car than just the engine oil, the engine isn't the most important thing, brakes, steering and suspension (all three include tyres), then safety electrics (lights, horn, blower, wipers perhaps) and glass (windows and mirrors) - see and be seen. Start new threads if you want or need to know about other stuff and as you've seen posters here will help you. HTH.

I'm not very mechanical or expert in anything just going on my limited experience with other cars. If you can get a closer look with more light there you might confirm the boot is open which could have got dirt/debris inside in which case the droplink needs replacing, personally I'd always replace such parts in pairs. I've no idea how awkward or not that droplink might be to replace, the nuts can be a right PITA to get off. Possibly a thin-headed spanner to hold the thread part on its hex might be needed but I don't know, other Superb owners will. Going at it with a rattle gun drill, if you can get one in there, might make things worst or might loosen the nut straight away (with a spanner the other side?). I'd clean and pre-soak, and leave to soak in, the fixings in PlusGas or GT85 the day or night before trying to get the nuts off. PlusGas is a good penetrating, releasing fluid, GT85 is that too and a load of other benefits, unfortunately neither are British companies anymore. https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb https://gt85.co.uk/ One way to find out if it's that droplink causing or contributing to noise and feel(?) is to remove it and carefully test by a short slow drive with turn, preferably off the public road (that's anywhere that the public can be) and if the noise and feel through steering and pedals has gone that's probably it. Let us know how you get on and what the resolution is, cheers.

@Vlady what did you decide to do, or done and the results?

@aquaman68 did you get the hose connector and boot electrics sorted, what were the fixes?

As it's generally quite here you might be better asking on, or doing a Search in, Skoda Octavia Mk II (2004 - 2013) - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/28-skoda-octavia-mk-ii-2004-2013/ Being a VRS is it spark plug sensitive, wants certain number NGK, I assume all the petrol MK2 Octavias VRS have the same engine type. If you've got ODIS doesn't it record number of misfires, perhaps a full readout and Search or post in 'Diagnostics & VCDS' but again it tends to be quiet there too. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/ HTH, good luck.

Is the marked up a blanking plate with capnuts? If you don't have air-con you don't have a cabin filter according to Mann. - https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/vehicle/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Vehicles/CARS + TRANSPORTERS/SKODA/Citigo (NF1)

Yes 27 is what's on my VWSkoda list of fuse assignments and same in the Owner's Manual for my wife's 2015 , 15A (blue) - (on fuse holder C -SC27) - (terminal 75x, motor V12). But VWSkoda along with all manufacturers can have errors and omissions in their info and databases and fuse box assignment and diagrams are sometimes know to be wrong. I've never tried pulling fuse 27 or any others to find out. But as you have voltage at motor it doesn't matter, I've no idea of pins to terminal, the likes of Breezy_Pete would know more about the electrics and pins and electric diagnostics but you'd have to call him as AFAIK I'm on, or are all of it, his poster(s) "Ignore" list, you could PM or DM or wotever it's called him or see if he turns up here, or put an @ directly attached to his name, as you type more characters the list get more appropriate, once put in a post and that will be send a notification to him. - e.g. - @nta16 I can give you a link to the electrics diagrams, here. -https://cardiagn.com/skoda-fabia-mk3-2015-2019-2020-workshop-manuals-wiring-diagrams/ Allowing for Sod's Law, if you've not already done so, a direct battery to wiper motor test should prove the motor. For the stalk I was thinking of mechanical movement and checking checking wire connector, otherwise it's the joy of removing the stalk for a look-see but that be the last thing I'd do in this case. I have removed the stalk and done a guide on it, the video there shows the stalk removal and out of car. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/495150-windscreen-wipers-dont-turn-off-come-on-by-themselves-fabia-mk3

Hi, welcome. Difficult to tell (for me at least) by your photo of Offside, pic 1, but if the top joint boot of that droplink is open / torn that might be the noise or a contributor to the noise, the feel through the steering and pedal sounds a bit drastic for this , but I could well be wrong about that, so perhaps if you try a bar or something on it to see / feel / hear any movement from that top joint. Be careful what you use and where you brace against and what might happen to the car or you with any slippage, also bear in mind you don't weigh as much as the car acting on any parts like that. It could be more other and more serious things and you want to sort anything to do with steering or suspension straight away or ASAP depending the cause and severity. As it tends to be quieter here you might be better posting or Searching in the relevant to your year of car Superb forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/171-škoda-superb/ HTH. Good luck.

2025 is 20 mm diameter by 2.5 mm thick, 2032 is 20 mm diameter by 3.2 mm thick. Many seem to be able to fit the thicker battery in remotes and it might / should? last longer (if it fits without issues) but both are nominal 3V. As it's so very easy to synchronise the (non-KESSY at least) remote key fobs I've had with cars I always synchronise them after changing battery(ies) just in case (belt, braces and bit of string type thinking) and never have a "spare" key instead alternate the use of both keys, I swap every 6-months but other alternates are available, this way the remotes, batteries, keyblades and locks all get more even wear plus you know where the other key is (rather than mislaid) and that it should be fully operational when you need it, opposite of carrying a spare wheel in the boot for years and it's under inflated or flat when you actually need it. I normally link to the relevant Owner's Manual for specific instructions (battery changing, synchronising) but once again the Skoda Owner's Manuals site has problem.

There must be alternatives, for me if it had to be a Swift it'd have to be a MK1 Swift to be small, light and nippy enough but I'm far too old to have any idea what modern youngsters would be able to stomach. I think you have to be 25, and no idea how long after passing test, to get "classic" insurance (insurance for a "classic" car), you'd not believe the possible premiums) for the price of this one year's Fabia insurance you could get at least one, if not two, decent "classics"/old-car and the insurance(s), hopefully not need to spend much on them, have fun and and learn to drive and not just pass the the driving test. But I've gone of a tangent again and not answered the original post - @Buddxrs as well as following the advice in Rooted's post earlier in the day you might also want or need to post in the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/ And/or do a Search in this forum and the 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forum for the info you're after. Good luck.

I've no idea now but surely there are smaller lighter options than a Polo - note I'm biased I don't like the interior of German marques, and many of the exteriors, they look like they were done by boring, steady fathers. An unmolested Mk1 Golf GTI would look slow on paper to modern eyes but being smaller and very substantially lighter than a more modern lardy Polo the Golf with its "skinny" wheels and tyres would dance around the Polo on a good twisty A, B, or unclassified road and be a lot more fun to drive, and at legal speeds.

😃 😄 Thanks. I think I misread the same in another post, I've increased the zoom on my screen (and on looking again still read it as black box!). Apologies to Buddxrs. Depends on noise of course but removing/replacing the back box could upset an MOT tester or Police if it's on top of something else annoying them, I've no idea about a standard Fabia Mk3 1.2 tsi I wouldn't have thought it'd be that bad. Modern cars have enough insulation to reduce noises into the cabin and some may have the "stereo" loud so that they have to have over-noisy exhausts to hear them inside the car, "stereo" off the exhaust need not be as loud. I've had sports exhaust boxes and systems put on couple of cars and I'm not against them but a well serviced, maintained, tuned and set up car can be quieter than those that aren't.

I only almost know the general very basics but they are always the best place to start any diagnostics from, car wont start- battery (electrics/electronics, and computer programs now) and fuel (empty tank, fuel delivery and reception), of course a fuel pump has a foot in each of these camps. Good luck let us know how you get on.

What brakes are on the car now, size, make if you know, wheel size too? Unless things have changed a stage 1 can mean one thing to one tuner and perhaps different to others. You can get various power hikes and/or changes for better/different performance improvement to include better mpg (depending on driving style. Remember tyres are an important part of the braking system (and steering and suspension system) as with many things size of wheels and tyres bigger doesn't always mean better, Smaller and narrower wheels with narrower and higher profile tyres can be better than bigger and wider, the design, make up and composition of the tyre can be more important than just the size. What is a black box delete, I thought black boxes were added after factory and many insurance one are supposed to work on these (so-called) "smart" phones? 🤣 Thanks rum4mo. There's loads of info on tuning and tuners on the forum but others I'm sure will be along with more advice and recommendations.

You might be better off asking on the relevant Octavia forum or putting up (landscape) photos or video of the trim panel, the recess and screw and the grab handle. Looking at the rubber(?) grab handle on my wife's Fabia Mk3 no recess but it look like the screw might hold the handle but without removing it I don't know if that does it or if the panel has to be taken off - if it is the screw that holds the handle then it might be your handle is broken or slipped out(?) but I don't know.

Years back a mate entered a rally to Gambia from England via France etc. then desert, the idea was you bought a vehicle for under a certain amount took it to Gambia and left it there to be sold, if you made it there, and the process would go to a charity there and provide vehicles to be auctioned. Three other blokes from the village want to join in all middle-aged or more and no idea about cars. First they bought a IIRC Mitsubishi with 4WD but it was an electronic gearbox with a problem. Next they listen to sense and got a little Suzuki with manual locking hubs and an old VW bus. Trouble with the bus with it was ex-army of somewhere and whilst the second electrics (for coms) might have been useful the riffle rack would cause problems in some countries and their border controls. I convinced them to remove the riffle rack and paint over the "missile-proof" camouflage paint and to test the vehicle by all driving it, and to find out how slow it would be over the Pyrenees and elsewhere, They still didn't listen about how slow it would be especially loaded with stuff for the journey and to give away. Big night at the pub night before they set of with a team from Northern Ireland joining them there, this was a team of youngsters and they turned up with an ex-Northern Ireland Police Land Rover Discovery complete with ammunition safe and some kind of Police large decal badges I tried to persuade them to remove the safe and decals but they thought it was fun - until they were detained at a border crossing. It was well known you might have to bribe the army border guards or at least not upset them, they have rifles and it's their country not yours. Our local pub's rally is a bit different, Rust Bucket Rally, supposed to buy a car for £500(helps with sorting it and getting it logo'd wrapped if you have mates in relevant trades) drive it in Europe and return whilst getting sponsorship to raise funds for the nominated charity. - https://www.therustbucketrally.co.uk/ Fiat Cinquecento and Seicento, last of the proper sized small family cars. 👍

Hi, welcome. Have you got access to a VW appropriate scan tool to get a report and that might also active the wiper? Which fuse did you check, and did you check both sides if the fuse? Did you check the stalk switch? What made you decide to buy another motor, did you test the motor before installation?

Do the diesel engines have a chain? Look for all the usual stuff when getting a car new to you plus if you can a VW appropriate scan tool to get a report from which could also give you some negotiating leeway on interpreting any error codes (some will mean very little). Check the state of battery on any modern car, possibly another area of negotiating or later cost or attention. You need to put more info to get more info, what engine is it, gearbox, its year, personally I'd avoid any from the possible build quality issues of covid and chip shortages and after but other owners of those times might disagree.

Good point, same thing happened when Northampton town belated first got speed cameras, though one camera on one road was the second highest in the country for a good while for catching those going above the speed limit so proved its need in keeping vehicles from going above the speed limit well, (plus and a little bit) at that point.

As stated you do need to start with a thoroughly clean screen to really know one blade, or it's metal reprofiling, against previous. Halfords used to sell bottles of glass cutting polish cleaner, but no longer, that seemed good when used very occasionally, if required. Halfords also used to sell their own labelled rain repellant which seemed about as good as Rain-X, I was also gifted some expensive Japanese rain repellant stuff (and a very nice luxurious microfibre towel) and that didn't seem any better or worth its reputation or cost. I used rain repellant more for the fact it made the (very small) windscreen easier to clean on my old car which could be covered in flies at the next stop despite being cleaned at the previous stop. I still have the last little bit left in a very old bottle (shows Quaker State on it, I've no idea if that dates it) of the older Rain-X 'Super Concentrated Windscreen Washer Additive' with its instructions of squirt once into one litre of water or any pre-mixed winter washer solution, in the washer reservoir - that level of super concentrate I think disappeared a good few years back. 😄