nta16

Thanks. I'm in UK/Britain/England its Killmanau (OP) who's location is shown as Denmark. I thought, Skoda UK at least, at some point, had first brake fluid change at 3 years from new then every two years after that but as I put I could well be wrong/misremembered.

Killmanau put system has been not been opened, I just wondered if the brake fluid level had been checked at any point or if any fluid had been removed or added and as English might not be Killmanau's first language if he meant he hadn't bleed the system - better to ask than assume. You are the one that knows about mechanical matters why not add your thoughts to getting a solution or helping rather than always worrying about what I post, but if I've put something wrong here then please say so as well, if you want to or feel you must. I may be wrong but I thought first brake fluid change was at three years, or it was at some point with Skoda UK at least - but perhaps that's not the case at all, or ever, or in Denmark, I don't mind being wrong, I often am and this is the internet after all. 😄 One reason I post on unanswered threads is that by doing so others arrive, I have such magnetism. 😆

Decades of experience doesn't stop me sometimes forgetting, until I've fixed the lenses cover(s) back on the car, of course that's when I discover the new unused spare didn't work. Decades back I fitted a cheap brake light bulb my neighbour had bought (to his Mk4 Cortina) and on testing it (with lenses cover fitted of course) it worked and then it didn't, swapped it over with the bulb from the other side to discover the faulty bulb worked with a quick dab of the brake pedal but not hold the push. Discovered the filament would break away one end when it got heated but as it cooled the end would go back and touch until the next time it heated. Years later I had another bulb do the same but knew what it was then, hence I don't buy standard bulbs, which used to be fine but no longer were, cheap for a reason. I've also had an intermittent blade fuse (or fuse to holder) Sod's Law on the fuel pump supply, worst still on the way to a remote(-ish) pub and not at the pub or after. I stopped some walkers and was given a plastic pen top that got us to the pub and back home where I replaced the blade fuse with another and even without the use of the pen top never had any problems with it after. Of course no one believes it was the fuse but the car stopped twice with that fuse and never with its replacement, I initially thought I or someone else might have knocked the fuse or fuseholder as it was under the dash and the car required the driver to slide fit his legs under the dash. When someone says it won't or can't be that I've learnt to check just in case particularly if I thought so and didn't check. Sod's Law of course if you can check something from two ends and not the middle it'll always be at or nearer the other end that you start from. 😄 Very wise. 👍

I'm not mechanical so only non-mechanic driver thoughts from me. Winding the calipers back and new (not worn) pads and discs would normally raise the level of brake fluid, did you check the level of brake fluid before, during and after removing and replacing the discs and pads? If the car is 3 years old a change of brake fluid would be good and with that you could bleed the brakes too. You don't want the AABS block missed out really nor any air in it so a VW appropriate scan tool to do the process of bleeding the brakes can also be useful too (not that many including garages might bother with such. Otherwise new pads and discs particularly if different make or type from previous can feel different on the pedal (but not squishy like air) or a coincidence and something to do with brake servo and it feel (again unlikely by your description but English might not be your first language).

Well done. 👍 And thanks for reporting back. These jobs aren't difficult but often PITA (or back) more awkward than you'd expect. Yeap that happened to me when I put a bar through the tool. 😄 Another good idea to walk away and have a mug of tea and return later. Or a mate (or wife) turns up and puts it back in easily and instantly. I cleaned and the covers and wheel arch liner area before removal and for refitting cleaned and spray lubricated the edges of the wheel arch liner opening and the cover and just lined the cover up and thumped into place with my fist, despite the spray lubricant the covers were just as difficult to remove the next time they needed to come off. Forgot to put do test the bulbs before fitting, I've had new bulbs straight out of the packet not work and one that was in the spare kit for 7 years and then when needed didn't work (might have been vibrations from being in boot or just stored shed stock, I forget. None were headlight bulbs but 21w and 21w/5w, I always go for "heavy-duty" or "X2 Life" (or "X3 Life" if I have time to order them. Having found the DRL such a PITA to do I'd dread the headlights if my wife isn't around (and she normally disappears at such times as she doesn't like to here swearing). Do think about your car battery, as a preventative measure I used the charger/maintainer only the other week on my wife's Fabia as the car does lots of very short journeys, Sod's Law it didn't really need it, only took a hour or so to 'FUL' but it's the type of car work I don't mind, fit the charger and go back in and do more interesting and rewarding stuff in the warm and dry.

I agree if you can do it. I have small hands but I still had to ask my wife to put the incandescent DRL bulbs back in as it was boiling my blood trying to do it (the DRL bulb blowing again and the amber-light-of-doom warning light being tardy in it's operation had already p*ssed me off enough). Last millennium my wife had a little Fiat (when little cars were very little and not the huge oversized, overweight as they are now) and even though I could get my small hand in the gap to get at the back of the light I just couldn't get my wrist in a position to remove the dud bulb so I had to send my wife down to the usually very unreliable Fiat dealership and pay them to replace a bulb (the shame of it for a man of my age at that time). My wife said the mechanic had big hands but done the job very quickly and very easily with no tools or other work and the Dealership didn't even charge for the work and done it just straight away where the car was parked up. 😄

Using the video posted earlier in this thread I done the 'full' job and as a non-mechanical person put up a sort of guide and tips from my experience of doing so on my wife's 2015 Fabia Mk3 SE hatch. -

If you are doing the job yourself disconnecting the battery and removing it isn't a big job and more likely to do good than bad. Read your Owner's Manual and check what will need resetting after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. On my wife's Fabia Mk3 (Hatch) 1.2 TSI (90 SE 5-speed manual) only one item needed resetting, I forget which but it wasn't the radio as in the Owner's Manual. (ETA: just remembered, it was the time clock.) Before disconnecting the battery check (electric) windows are fully closed, everything electrical is off (which is good practice every time before you turn the engine off, excluding safety items) and before reconnecting the battery check again, as much as possible, all electrics items are off. There will still be some electric going through anyway from the complex VW computer programs when you disconnect and reconnect and if you left some electric item on it'd probably not be the end of the world but best to have at the minimum you can. When you reconnect the battery clamps to the battery posts make sure the inside of the clamps and the battery posts are clean and then connected tightly (can't be moved not murder tight). Read the Owner's Manual, disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery isn't a big thing, on these cars at least. If you want a belt and braces, after reconnecting the battery start the car turn the lights and air-con and blower on and turn the steering wheel full lock in each direction. Or don't bother just check the new bulb works and just start the car and and drive it when and as you normally would, during the driving the computers will sort themselves if required. Getting the (incandescent) daylight driving lights replaced is more awkward than disconnecting and reconnecting the car battery. Good time to also think about the state of charge of the car battery and if required using an appropriate battery charger maintainer or appropriate driving, see the Owner's Manual about charging the battery too. Good luck.

You'd want the key in the ignition to (?) turn the alarm off.

Correction, second key not "spare". 😉 😁

If the other scanner is a good one and VW (complicated programs) compliant then I'd strongly suggest you check and if required fully recharge the car battery fully with an appropriate charger/maintainer (as low and slow as possible) but then I would recommend battery charging without any error codes. Many owners are very surprised to learn how many issues the car can throw up even before giving any warning lights or messages let alone noticing on the car starter motor sound. Even if it's not the battery state of charge a fully charge battery will help with diagnostics, and low charged battery perhaps hinder, particularly with electrical and starter issues, the car's computers run on 5v electricity already so you don't want to thin that too much more. Never forget the basics, scan tools and such like may seem sexy and higher tech but you still need to check the starter basics and basics as you go along with physical or electronic diagnostics. Scan tools don't tell you everything or always the whole story, they're one diagnostic tool among others (often a very good tool but sometimes misleading particularly if you don't cross check and correctly apply the information they might give). Good luck.

Hi, welcome. If your your cruise control is fully working it might be an error with the obdeleven perhaps I don't know, you could try checking with obdeleven site or forum (if they have them) or using a different make of scan tool to confirm the error code. Have you let the car battery get low recently or changed battery. I always think of errors in any computer programing (car and scan tool manufacturers included). I'd not rush to book it into a workshop perhaps it might not even be there next time you plug in the obdeleven (but I do not know this). You might get more help by posting on the (much more lively) 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ HTH.

Fairly recently replaced two Avon ZT7 as they were MoT (and personal) failure on the inside face, cracking following the circle of tyre just up from the wheel edge, three years old from manufacture and use on the car, 23k-miles of use on the car. BTW I know they started out at 6.5mm tread new as before I bought them I read all the whinging from those that assumed all tyres start out with 8mm tread new.

Hi, welcome, sorry you've not received a reply here but you would get plenty of help and replies posting in the 'Skoda Fabia Mk II (2007-2014)' forum. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/113-skoda-fabia-mk-ii-2007-2014/ HTH.

You've posted in the wrong place to get many answers (this is about the site forum rather than the cars) try 'Skoda Superb Mk III (2015 - 2023)' forum as it seems lively enough in there. - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/299-skoda-superb-mk-iii-2015-2023/ I can only think of the second set of keys (never think of them as the "spare" set, alternate use of both sets) or calling the breakdown services, unless any of your customers are car thieves as I'd guess they might have your car started and opened in a matter of seconds. Good luck.

Do bear in mind as all the oils will be different makes and models of the multigrades it is not a direct comparison of one multigrade scale of oil against another multigrade scale of oil and you could get different results from using different makes and models of the same multigrade scale of oil. It might be that even if a particular oil. or oils, doesn't meet your expectations of fuel consumption it may shine in other area(s) so you may want to consider overall results, particularly of engine protection, rather than just lowest fuel consumption, before making a decision of which to stay with. For engine wear as a complete engine strip down and analysis at the end of each oil use isn't going to happen analysis of the used oil is the next step, or listening and worrying about every sound from the engine. But I think you will pick good quality oils that will protect your engine in 15w-50, 10w-40s or if you try 10w-50 or 10w-60. The search goes on, you will soon have enough graphs of results for a Powerpoint presentation, or perhaps a Youtube video, too much for a Tik-Tok (not that I have ever seen a Tik-Tok or whatever others are called). Good luck. 😄

👍 @Hussar175 the phone doesn't have to be in the car just within reception so the green bar might be there when the car is parked at home but disappear if the phone is (quite rightly) left at home and you have driven away from home. There are other waning lights and messages to let you know you have let the car battery get too low, and more unexpected lights if you let the battery get far too low or low and using a lot of electric, well with a start/stop car at least.

Don't take things too literally, the racing ain't always Formula 1 stuff, I've used Mobil 1 "Motorsport" oils and Millers classic high performance (sports) engine oils, also Millers (modern) "Motorsport" oils in the gearbox and rear axle, and I have no interest in motorsport and have only a few times been round tracks and at less than 70mph, slower than when on European roads. Most classic car and classic racing car owners are as tight as a duck' s ar"se (and that is water tight) so they don't over spend on things like oils, the oils are just good and better quality oils if you need or want them with of course a steep law of diminishing returns for extra cost often (but not always if you get them when on offer or change of branding, labelling or formula). Again mileage is just a guide it is more about the wear and tear and use and abuse of the engine, the extra protection may not go amiss on a 23 year old used engine and the 60 useful perhaps for hot city and hard mountain driving. But again the 10w-60 Extended Life was just an example. If anything I would have thought the fuel consumption would possibly be slightly higher with a 15w-50 against a 5w-40 in colder weather but it also depends a bit on the two oils and I am no expert (in anything) but the engine oil isn't just about getting ultimate fuel consumption so as with everything with cars and the ancient technology of the internal combustion engine it is all about compromises to hopefully reach a reasonable overall given all factors. As with the vacuum gauge, the TC-6 is good to see when things stray from the norm but you mustn't be slavish to it. A timely and thorough oil (and filter) change can sometimes be more important than which of all the appropriate oils is used and important whichever is used. You are going to need a good spreadsheet and graphs to compare all the oils against consumptions. 🙃 Good luck.

. . . or perhaps another Felica owner steps in to put that's normal - (I thought about it but) I'm glad I didn't need to spell it out and it happened, shows the community help, and greater expertise and knowledge of the car through ownership. Just as one example - Mobil 1 Extended Life 10W-60 - "engineered for the specific demands of older vehicles" "engineered to help provide long lasting protection in higher mileage engines so you can get long life out of your vehicle" "designed to help provide the extra protection that older engines can demand. It is suitable for virtually all types of older vehicles and operating conditions" "has the following builder approvals: VW 501 01 / 505 00". - https://www.mobil.com/en-mk/passenger-vehicle-lube/pds/gl-xx-mobil-1-extended-life-10w60 I was being a bit sarcastic with that, British humour, my point was that you would find the information very distracting and at times worrying. The way to use the gauges is to learn where the needle should point with your car and occasional glances to see that the needle is in the usual area and not keep a near constant attention on the gauge and not worry too much about book figures or the figures others get on their cars. A digital readout would be madness it would have your eyeballs spinning with the changes sometimes. 😄 So begins another chapter, don't just measure it on ultimate levels of fuel consumption rather all round performance and protection of your engine. Good luck with it. 👍

So a 10w-50 would be in between those for summer mountain use. I once used Mobil 1 10w-60 as I was told the 60 would drop to 50 with use, I can't remember anything about or with its use or than next annual service I used Millers for the first time, a 15w-50 Classic High Performance, which they changed to Classic High Performance 20w50 NT by the next annual service. Imagine the fun you could have watching the needle on a very cold start - how high will it go and how long will it stay there, then with hard use of the car on a hot day and car at idle - how low with it go, and how much will the needle move with use of the car at various times, could be more distracting whilst driving than a phone call or ****Nav or anything else from a "smart phone". 😄

No, well, this is a recommendation based on the Motul UK representative probably using the Motul database and for the sake of meeting VW's dictates going with their 504 00 507 00 requirements and for a UK vehicle use. Plus all previous caveats mentioned in this thread and the other(s) must also be taken into consideration. Perhaps it would be interesting to know what oil VW would recommend for your car in its location and use (if they have such records and information other than what you and others have already presented from the period publications. Perhaps the oil is too "thin" when the car is completely cold or perhaps the oil drains out of the pressure switch area, or the cold electronics are slower to react or faulty/worn/ modern not well made. You would be a nervous wreck if you ran a British made 60s/70s car with a Rover V8 engine and looking at its oil pressure gauge, or 90s car with also an oil temperature gauge and using the car in winter. You would though worry less about petrol consumption, particularly if the car is on carb(s). 😄

I got a reply from Mutol UK it states the "vehicle requests 504/507 VAG specifications, these specifications can only be achieved on a fully synthetic formulation and is requirements by the manufacturer". So just following VW’s dictates which for UK sticking to VW 504 00 507 00 would give Motul 8100 X-Clean+ 5W-30. The red light staying on for two seconds could be the oil used perhaps fulfilling Thefeliciahacker warnings, or perhaps the oil switch, see what happens immediately after the the engine starts if you blip the accelerator. From what I'm told in the 1960s and 70s the bulbs were removed from oil warning lights to stop drivers worrying about it occasionally coming on. Earlier models of the Midget used to have a light to show if the oil filter was blocked, no oil warning light though as a combined mechanical coolant temperature and oil pressure gauge was fitted. Theses gauges had number makings on originally then the markings became more general on the coolant and in the 1970s the oil pressure gauge wasn't fitted. As put previously the gauges worried, perhaps newer, drivers with their markings and what they "should" read at and for some no doubt the amount of movement of the needles with the use of the car or way it was driven, so on the more modern cars they were removed or dampened and biased to a "normal" reading to save this worry.

You can add your car details to your nameplate thingy if you want, as my example.

If you have LED day light running lights you may, or may not, need to follow the guide a member has posted but note his car is a MK3 2018 model 1.0 TSI 95 BHP (see below). Perhaps(?), I don't know though (i forgot to look) you can get at the headlight unit by removing the wheel and wheel arch plastic. Why is water getting into the headlight, is it condensation or water getting in, could you not seal where the water is getting in. The the plastic "glass" lens cover can get cracked or chipped or perhaps a split on a seam (a hole someone's put in it). Personally I'd have a good look at the "glass" cover, then with the bonnet up have a goo look at the top of the light unit, removing the shiny black metal plate above (only one bolt, hopefully nut is self held, and two torx screws that I can see - but I've never done it so don't know. If you put a new unit in it might show a different colour to the seven year old on other side and I don't know if you have to let the car's computers know but I'd guess it'd light up unless you have some extras on the lighting or it's non-standard. Perhaps if you put up a photo of the problem. I might be tempted to drill three small holes to let the water out and if necessary repair the leak and if required seal the holes. Taking plastic bits off in theory is easy but at this time of year with the weather and lack of daylight I'd put it off until spring/summer (or never).

More information may be required, what model, what year, what engine.